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Turbo LSX Focus

310K views 1K replies 149 participants last post by  BoostedLM7 
#1 · (Edited)
ok im making a post of my plans. i was going to wait till i was finished to post this but i figured you guys would really like to see the progress more than just the results.

the plan: To build a turbo v8 focus with upwards of 800hp for less than or equal to the price it cost me to build the 4cyl to make 400hp. this is all of course based on the fact that i am doing it my self and not paying someone to do it. i done the same with the focus build and i plan to do this one as well.

Info on the Build:

Motor: 5.3L Vortec out of a 2002 Chevy 1500 truck from a salvage yard for 500 including wiring, ecu, manifolds, etc. i am not some one that looks at things by brand names, the only thing i care about is the power, reliability, cost, and sensibility of it. i am using a chevy motor because of how universal all of their parts are, how compact they are, the power they can make, how little they cost, and they are very reliable. the 5.3 was very easy to find, i have a ls1 IM for it, and plan to get a corvette zo6 cam. after the project is finished and rolling i will save up and build this motor and push the t76 to the limits.

a modular cobra or navigator motor are both very large, very expensive, and very complicated motors. the 5.0's are junk when it comes to making a lot of power.













Tranny:
TH400 transmission. very inexpensive and very strong. i do not plan to buy a tranny controller so i need a mechanically operating trans. the plan is to either swap to a 4l80e trans and convert it to full mechanical/and manual valve body and build it or to build the turbo 400. this will depend on funds when the time comes. i have this ordered from a local salvage yard for 350.

Rear end and suspension:
the same salvage yard will be supplying me with what ever i need out of a wrecked mustang with a 4 link 8.8. this will include the linkages, shocks, springs, brakes, and wheels. i believe their price is 350-400.

the 8.8 will be what i use till the motor and tranny are finished. then i will be switching to a cobra independent. i will not be tubbing and building a drag car. i will do my best to make this thing handle as good as it does now.

the front subframe will need to be modified, but i will be using the stock focus suspension. my plan is to cut out the section where the tranny will go through the subframe and reconstruct it to fit under. the rack and pinion will need to be in front of the motor so i will be getting a rack out of something that will fit. the stock spindle will work fine. i just swapped the driver and passengers sides to move the tierod hook up to the front side.


Engine managment:
megasquirt will be used because this is a budget project. i am very happy with the reviews i have seen and for the price i dont think i could get much better. it may not be able to do as much as many of the ems's available but it will be able to make a very reliable driver and work great for the power.

gauges:
just going with all autometer gauges.

fuel:
i already have a return fuel system, i just need to buy 4 more injectors and new fuel rails.

pics of the tear down:





what the engine with turbo will look like:


i will be posting every time i buy some thing and telling what i paid. in the end will post a full list of every part i purchased and a list of every part i sold and what they sold for along with what i paid.

hope you guys enjoy

Tim
 
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#627 ·
ah you! sorry I just had a crazy moment there and wanted to see what you'd say.

I do that a lot.

GOOD answer though. It seems all too many people DON'T know that.
 
#629 ·
since the move to AL on and off of a trailer i decided that the engine and tranny were to low as well. so i fixed it. this week i re-drilled the front plates, modified and re-drilled the mid-plate, and completely rebuild the tranny cross-member.

new tranny cross-member


and now the oil pan is exactly even with with the factory sub-frame.
 
#633 ·
holy sheister! i check in on this thread every few months and every time im blown away and disappointed at the same time. disappointed that i havent gotten a ride yet but blown away you've made so much progress.
 
#634 ·
started redoing the turbo kit now that the engine is in the right spot.

i like the new kit a lot better. dp is going to be hard as hell to figure out, lol.

i have not started on the manifold because my flanges are backordered. but i did the collector and crossover.







 
#638 ·
looking good Tim i actually like the turbo better in that location
 
#640 ·
sorry if my mig welding doesnt look as good as jim's tig.. but that bitch aint leaking.

my collector w/ manifold. i cant afford a v-band so for now it will all be one big pita piece.



any way if you dont know what i am trying to do with that pipe sticking off. it is the begining of this.

 
#641 ·
Tim your mig welding looks fine, and hell ya that will hold and not leak. looks perfect man
 
#642 ·
Everything looks good , If I may add next time you do a turbo header make the runners from the Exh ports turned twords the direction of the turbo manifold end so the exh does not have to make a 90 deg turn , this helps keep the velocity up greatly and will help with spooling a big turbo

Tom
 
#643 ·
the main reason i am doing it like i am on the manifold is so i dont have to take the manfold off to change the spark plugs, lol. i would like to do a ram horn style manifold on that side but i am kinda out of money to buy more pipes, lol
 
#644 ·
i mounted the wg today. i tried to do a better job mounting this wg than i did the last time. the last time it was straight off the collector and faced down. this time i mounted it Y'd to each collector (since it is twin scroll now), facing the same direction as exhaust flow, and also its cool cause you can see it, lol.









i also started on the down pipe.
 
#648 ·
dp has about 1/4" clearance on each side. should fit fine but you are right it is a tight fit, lol.

the turbo kit is not finished there isnt any need for a clamp there till its finished, lol. i just put the pipe on there to make sure it was going to fit right.
 
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