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Old 09-29-2008, 08:45 PM   #1
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#2 rod problems......

Ok guys need some help.... i have a 2002 ford focus... fully built ...cgi, manely rods, diamond pistons, clevite bearings, oil squirters, full turbo system...ect... ect..ect... tuned by Tom at forcus power. all of this only had about 5k on it when i spun the first bearing....Well now in the past 3-4 months i have spun or messed up the #2 rod bearing 3 times.... The first 2 times the rod turned blue and found out that the # 2 main wasnt clearanced right.. well had scarborougho who is pretty well know through the racing industry rebuild the bottom end Custom cut the crank to fit the bearings re finished ... crossed hatched.. ect.. ect..ect. well i got about 70 miles on the motor and again got a knock. hadnt even used the high boost... car is tuned for 25lbs of boost and was only running about 13lbs. so i need some ideas as to why i am having so many problems with the #2 rod bearing.

just so you know... things we have already checked... oil pressure.. i have 32 at idle and goes up accordingly...
I have been running a fram oil filter and found out that they supposedly suck.
I run 15-50 mobile 1 synthetic oil. and run 93 octane fuel.
I have a j&s and did not see it do anything but flicker for a split second when i let out of it.. has done that since i put it in (tom said thats ok)

Please help me come up with some things to check... and help me solve this demon so i can drive my car.


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Old 09-29-2008, 08:49 PM   #2
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I would say 15w-50 is some pretty heavy oil for these engines. Even when they are built. Maybe try some 10w-30 or even 5w-30. I would say 75% of FF runs the 5w-30. Also who originally built the motor?
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Old 09-29-2008, 08:54 PM   #3
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Well you are going to have to take it apart to see what the problem is this time. What did you have done to the rod the first three times? Was it replaced or just checked out? I wouldnt have trusted the rod after the first time of it turning blue from being overheated, even if you machine it back to spec, I wouldnt trust it.
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Old 09-29-2008, 09:10 PM   #4
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mcnews built the motor originally...
the first and second time i just checked if it messed it up and since it didnt i just put a new bearing in it. (I know... not suppose to do that).. the third time i had scarborougho rework all of the parts.. and they said that they rebuilt all of the parts and cut them to fit eachother just like they do an all of their race motors.... i asked about the blueing and they said "yeah we do this all the time well fix it to make sure its safe. You wont ever have to worry about it."
they (scarborougho) have it right now and said there was no scarring or the #2 bearing this time but you could tell that it had been effected.
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Old 09-30-2008, 01:35 AM   #5
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This time when you rebuild it, I would first take a look at the crank and block oil passages and make sure its not an oiling issue. I put together a new CGI block and upon cleaning it prior to assembly, I found an oil passage partially clogged.

To be on the safe side, I would just pick up another stock crank and new rods, or contact Manley to see if they would sell you one rod. Definetly get the block checked out though.
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Old 09-30-2008, 03:01 AM   #6
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IMO... sounds like its an oil related problem. My guess is that your bearing is somehow not getting the amount of oil that all the other bearings are and is heating up to the point where it hugs the crank and goes for a ride with it... I think this because you are saying the bearing/crank journal looks blue-ish which is a real bad sign of high temps on metal... ask any racer what a burned up flywheel looks like... I would be flushing out the whole oil system and trying to manually clear any obstruction just in case.

just my 2 cents... good luck & keep us updated!!!!
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Old 09-30-2008, 07:17 AM   #7
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we thought of that and on the last build up they did all that.... cleaned out and made sure there was nothing in the passages..this time the said it wasnt a blueish color.
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Old 09-30-2008, 07:26 AM   #8
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I agree to me it sounds like the bearing is getting some oil but not enough , you need to remove all block plugs , squirters and there is a rod that you can use that will go into all oil galleys to check them and make sure there open

Resizing the rod and grinding the crank to proper size does not bother me at all and if sized correctly would not be your problem

Keep in mind every time you resize a rod it gets shorter

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Old 09-30-2008, 10:00 AM   #9
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ok so where do i get this rod to check the oil galleries? and what specifically do have to do and check?
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Old 09-30-2008, 04:20 PM   #10
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Bring it here and I will go over it with you OR places like hobby shops and automotive supply places sell long small brushes that will also work well , You want something about the size of the hole and take out all the oil plugs so you can see through them and see the rod coming through to the larger main holes , DO NOT just blowthrough them

Almost all the CGI blocks we have done had a large amount of crap in the oil holes

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