sporadic's Turbo Duratec build thread
For 9 months now I've been gathering parts and doing research in preparation for this build.
Everyone is welcome to ask questions or make comments!
This is my first dealing with forced induction, but not my first encounter with a wrench if you could guess.
If you think I'm doing something wrong, tell me! I gladly accept advice.
That doesn't mean I'll always follow it of course.
I do respectfully ask that folks stay on topic, mainly so others who may find this thread useful don't have to wade through pages of trash talk.
From tomorrow until the project is complete I plan on posting updates with photos here, so keep checking back!
- 2006 Ford Focus zx5 ses. 2.0L Duratec, completely stock
- IHI turbo from '88 Tbird TC 2.3L @ 9.5psi
- 55lb injectors
- 3" exhaust including turbo outlet elbow. Includes cat, flex, and 6"x24" Magnaflow muffler (12649)
- Turbo header kit from JGS Precision Turbo. mild steel
- 2.5" intercooler piping
- gen 1 bov(bpv actually) from a Talon
- Black FMIC. 2.5" in/outlets
- Ford Racing boost/oil pressure gauges on pillar
- -3 AN oil feed T'd from the oil sending unit. No restrictor.
- -10 AN oil drain into oil pan
- 3/8" coolant lines
- Oil catch can
- PCV valve from Tbird TC
- Autolite 103 plugs at .035" gap
- SCT tune from LaSota Racing in Columbus, OH
Doesn't somebody make a kit??
Yep. Randy at Focus Sport sells them for a mere $4,000.
I'd personally rather have no turbo at all than to spend that much, learn nothing, and barely lift a finger.
That's just not me.
No offense to those who don't have the tools for the job.
Why the IHI?
#1 it was cheap, and spurred on this project.
#2 even after extensive research I believe this is the ideal turbo for my application.
I could be wrong, but at the moment I don't believe I am.
It will spool amazingly fast, and I want "usable" boost through all my RPM band.
I have no interest in a high-boost, high-rpm only turbo.
If for some reason the IHI isn't enough for me I can fairly easily switch to a T3 later.
55lb Injectors are overkill
That's the idea. Easier to tune with according to my tuner.
He actually recommends 60lb.
A 3" exhaust is overkill
#1 Turbocharged engines do not like backpressure link an N/A engine does.
#2 I want the quietest exhaust possible without restricting air flow.
I feel this should be a pretty quiet setup.
If not I'll add another small Magnaflow or a glass pack as a resonator.
How much work are you doing?
I'm fabricating: the entire exhaust, including the turbo manifold and turbo exhaust elbow.
The intercooler piping. I'm using 2.5" mild steel for now because I can't weld aluminum if the need arises.
I may make that switch later.
The ambient air piping, including a new air inlet for the intake side of the turbo.
I'm NOT doing:
Any milling to ensure flat mating surfaces for the exhaust manifold and associated welded parts.
The welding of the oil return nipple to my aluminum oil pan.
Bye bye clutch?
Well I suppose that's possible.
According to Randy at Focus Sport, the stock clutch is OK around 9psi.
I'm expecting to have to upgrade my clutch within a year or two.
When that happens I'll probably opt for a Torsen Limited Slip Differential at the same time.
Can you provide a parts list with costs?
I'll update my spreadsheet soon and make it available for download.
If there's enough interest I'll make a web page.
What is the safe boost level of the Duratec?
According to Randy at FS, anything over 11psi is crossing the line of longevity.
He has customers with over 30k miles on a 12psi kit.
I'll be at a max 9.5psi.
Do you have any sponsors?
Nope. Believe me I tried.
Start time: ~12pm
End time: ~12am
Removed stock exhaust manifold.
Fabbed the ambient air inlet elbow from 2.5" mild steel tube and a 2" (more like 2 1/8") flat exhaust flange and painted it.
Welded the turbo manifold, T3 flange, and tack welded the two together to double check fitment. (ok more like 100x check)
Mock fitted the intercooler.
The turbo's exhaust elbow is going to be a pain, and definitely not optimal angles. Good thing I'm using 3" tubing.
The power steering line (plastic) runs right where I want to mount my intercooler.
The turbo compressor outlet is about 1" away from my heater core coolant lines. They'll get rerouted so I'll have more room to allow for engine movement.
There are two plastic air redirectors, for lack of a better term, on either side of the radiator and I was hoping to just remove them for intercooler room.
Upon further inspection they look more useful that I thought.
Looks like I'll be cutting them to accomodate the intercooler instead of just removing them.
After welding the header and T3 flange together I mounted it and the turbo together to make sure everything still fit nicely, especially the ambient elbow.
I seemingly had more room after everything was welded.
I know there's an explaination, but I'm just happy the ambient elbow still fit!
Rustoleum 1200* paint is awesome. After around 6 months and thousands of miles it's still on my exhaust manifold like the day I sprayed it on!
The only thing flaking were places that were not properly removed of surface rust.
[I did this experiment solely to decide between Rustoleum and Duplicolor Ceramic high-temp paints to paint my header and turbo]
I say Rustoleum wins, but the Duplicolor is darn close.
Surface prep before painting is everything!
Note: I have 2 turbos: 1 with 70k miles that's dirty and ugly and needs rebuilt.. that's what's in the pics and what I'm test fitting with.
The other has only 30k miles and looks great.
That one will be in the "final install before tune" pics!
Ambient elbow (fresh air side of turbo)
Elbow painted and fitted:
Header tack welded and flange opening cut:
Header welded. Will get cleaned up a LOT before install. And painted.
T3 style flange:
Intercooler test fit:
Start time: ~2:30pm
End time: ~12:30am
Entire day spent on the turbo exhaust elbow and downpipe! :drugs:
Space is very tight, and I'm having to test fit many, many times.
I bet I mounted/unmounted the elbow 30 times today.
The end result isn't all that pretty, but the welds are good even though they don't look perfect.
Paint will do wonders.
Today was a great day to work on the car.
The rain kept it cool most of the day.
I got "sunburned"! I welded in a T-shirt yesterday. That was dumb.
My left froearm is pretty red. My wife made me wear a long sleeve shirt when welding today.
I sure didn't argue. :laugh:
The angle for the exhaust elbow was a beast.
Routing around the clutch/throttle cables (I think.. I didn't actually trace them) made for an extra 90* bend. Bummer.
My huge Magnaflow muffler doesn't have as many mounting location options as I thought. Maybe not an issue.
The stainless steel pipe didn't like the same heat setting as the aluminized steel.
The stainless melts at a much lower heat, and that led to some ugly welds but they ended up ok.
The stock exhaust is one big piece after the flex pipe.
I'd have to cut it to finish the exhaust, so it's getting put off for now.
The portion of the stock IHI exhaust elbow that I welded my new elbow to wound up being far easier to weld to than I anticipated.
That portion is 1/4" cast steel.
The trick was to keep the heat directly on the thicker steel and let the pool flow down and consume the thinner metal.
I can clamp the ground of my MIG welder to the base adjuster of the vise!
The current flows very well through the vise, so no need to keep changing the position of the ground!
Still need a short section on the downpipe.
That will have a second 02 sensor bung for a wideband, and a flange to mount to the cat.
I wanted to do the entire exhaust, but it looks like I'll put it off until the final install.. either later this month or August.
Paint. All bare metal will get painted.
Anything that gets hot will get high-temp paint, and then baked on the grill for a while to help the curing process.
Official soft drink of the sporadic turbo build:
Ironically the plastic Coke cup is my "outside" cup.
Exhaust elbow from above.
Notice the stuff I have to route around.
This is why I had to create a whole new elbow.
The stock IHI exhaust elbow points the wrong direction for my application.
New 3" elbow vs stock 2".
3" PaceSetter flex pipe vs stock flex.
The stock flex has an inner diameter of 1.5"! :shocked:
Testing the necessary heat setting to weld the 1/4" cast steel to the 14ga aluminized steel.
I was floored I got it right the first try.
Actually, I was so shocked that I didn't believe it was an ideally strong weld the first try...
So I proceeded to take a hammer to it. Welds didn't budge. :clap:
Today's final product, the downpipe.
Start time: 11:30am
End time: 3:00am
Well I didn't work on intercooler piping today.
I got an itch to work on the exhaust so I did.
I hacked off the stock exhaust and started with my own.
I spent a lot of time trying to figure out where to mount this monster Magnaflow muffler I bought.
In retrospect I kinda wish I would have either gone shorter, or more narrow..
Shorter would have fit in the position of the stock resonator..
More narrow and I could have placed it where I thought I was going to, and more importantly higher and tighter under the car.
This beast is going to hang down a bit. Maybe 2" max.
No baja competitions for me I guess. :grin:
My car isn't lowered so I'm not worried about it.
The catalytic converter was a pain to position..
This was due to having to move the muffler closer to the front of the car because to lack of width where I originally wanted to mount it.
I had to trim a couple of the corners of the cat to help with fitment.
I ended up cutting out the 2 stock hangers to fit the cat in that spot.
I'll reuse those same hanger rods but I'll widen them to accomodate the cat size.
I also ended up welding the 2nd O2 sensor bung in the front of the cat.
That isn't what I originally had in mind, but I think it'll work fine.
I started painting parts today!
Anything that gets really hot got painted with Rustoleum 1200* paint.
I also had some Ford Twilight Blue that I picked up from Advance for like $1 a while back so I painted some other stuff with that.
The blue doesn't really match my car, but it looks awesome anyway. :grin:
Everything looks 100x better painted.
All parts, even if they "looked" clean, got at least a thurough scrub with mineral spirits.
Many parts needed a wire brush or bench grinder wire wheel taken to them first.
After the parts actually look like metal again is when I use the mineral spirits.
Then a final wipe down with a paper towel to confirm no dirt is left.
After a revelation I emailed my tuner and he said this will work just fine:
I'm going to leave everything from this build installed, he's going to mail me an SCT xCalibrator 2 unit with 3 "starter" tunes in it.
Basically it will handle my 55lb injectors and disable the 2 rear O2 sensors.
I want to run around for a couple weeks with the turbo plumbed up, but the wastegate disconnected so I don't actually build boost.
That way I'll have plenty of time to fix any type of leak before driving to my tuner for the "real" tune.:clap:
I really think I'll work on intercooler piping this time!
I'll also be spending time online and phone ordering last minute parts.
First off.. you turbo guys.. is this piece I'm pointing at supposed to be loose?
The actual shaft has NO play and spins freely.
Cool air side:
Downpipe is complete minus paint!
As requested, a pic of my stock engine.
Ignore the lack of exhaut manifold. :grin:
.. and painted!
Muffler hangs down a bit:
Yes that's a gen 1 Talon bov sporting Ford blue.
I'll try to get better pics of the blue tomorrow.
Stock 2006 Focus exhaust:
Start time: ~11:00am
End time: ~3:00am
Man this day flew by!
I spent a decent part of the day on mounting the intercooler.
I started today by removing the entire stock air intake so I could move forward with the intercooler plumbing.
I nearly had a heart attack when I saw the crazy shape of the stock MAF. :wallbash:
I also didn't realize it narrowed to 2" either. I just measure one side of it and that was 2.5" (out) and the other side is 3" OD (in)... just too big for my air filter to clamp directly to it.
So I'm standing there holding this MAF, thinking there's NO way I can use this with my pipe selection... and I just ordered my starter tune from LaSota racing!
The 2.5" side of it doesn't clamp at all, but bolts to the air box instead.
I look around and what do I see?? A stock EVO rubber air intake hose!
The filter-side of the EVO hose fits perfectly to the filter-side of my MAF housing!:clap:
There are 2 extra vacuum ports that I'll have to plug, and a much larger hole that I am assuming is for the BPV recirculation line.
At any rate, it will sure work for now! Thanks Scott(evobluebyyou)!
A tip on the stock intake removal:
Loosen these 2 bolts before trying to pull out the intake!
Once those are loose and the hoses are disconnected the upper box part pulls off, exposing the MAF hosing which is bolted to the body.
Once I got the stock intake removed I grabbed a 90* 2.5" silicone hose to try on the throttle body - no go!
It's just over 2.5"..
Lo and behold what do I have? A stock EVO elbow that happens to fit perfectly! :thumb2:
I cut it to fit my needs after I took this pic.
The promised pic of the Ford Twilight blue:
My intercooler came with 3 nuts welded at the bottom and top.
I had to grind down the top ones in order for it to fit properly:
After a trip to the hardware store for some bolts (in the wife's car) I mounted the intercooler.
My brackets are made from stock EVO intercooler pipe brackets!
*warning* If you ever grind/cut aluminum do it outside if you can!
Aluminum goes airborne more than steel, but mainly it "shaves" off in little tiny slivers that get EVERYWHERE!!
Definitely not good for the lungs, or the freshly poured Pepsi Jazz. Doh!
I took care of the Power Steering line issue by unhooking it from the 2 plastic brackets in front of the radiator and pushing it up onto the "ledge" above it.
Then I zip-tied it to a wire loom already present there.
(tie is red)
(tie is red)
Moving on to the upper intercooler pipe..
I didn't get to the lower pipe today. I started laying stuff out though.
Gen 1 bpv mount welded:
Full shot of upper IC pipe:
It's also painted twilight blue now.
Hole is for the boost gauge bung.
I bought a kit from Advance Auto Parts for $5 or $6 for my boost gauge.
It has a male 1/8" NPT fitting at the end.
I happened to have an extra 1/4" NPT to 1/8" NPT adapter, so I made a bung out of it.
I drilled a 1/2" hole in the IC pipe, cleaned it, applied a liberal amount of Ultra Copper sealant and threaded it in!
I think it should work nicely!
I will be out of town the next 3 days!
Shot of the car:
The lighting in my garage is terrible for photos.
I had just been welding, so there's crud in the air too.
It was really late so I had the garage door shut so I don't disturb the neighbors.
Start time: ~1:00pm
End time: ~1:00am
Today started off really slow.
Yesterday I drove back from South Carolina after seeing my bro-in-law's basic training graduation.
I've been dragging for most of the day, but did manage to get 90% of the intercooler piping done.
Tomorrow I'll finish it up by fully welding the pipes and painting them.
I also baked most of my high-temp painted parts in the grill to help curing and lessen the stinky curing process.
I spent the morning running around buying various parts.
My local Napa sells exhaust pipe by the foot, so I bought some extra 2.5" and I'm glad I did.
I also bought 24" of 5/8" oil hose that's good to 200*F...
Anybody know if this will suffice for an oil drain line?
I think I'll run it and if it seems to deform etc I'll buy some silicone online.
The intercooler piping was definitely a challenge.
There is very little room to work with, and fat 2.5" pipe doesn't help.
Numerous times today I asked myself why I used 2.5" vs 2"! :wallbash:
For my relatively low power levels 2" would have worked just fine.
Tomorrow should wrap up the IC piping, and I hope to get a decent start on the exhaust.
Lower IC pipe:
Lower IC pipe and ambient pipes crossing:
There was no way around this.
They don't actually touch.
Man this was a huge pain.
(before BPV pipe)
Ambient piping again:
Shot of the EVO inlet pipe on the stock Focus MAF housing.
Ambient pipe with upper IC pipe:
Radiator hose will serve to connect my BPV.
BPV return pipe welded:
This is where I stopped for the night.
Start time: ~2:00pm
End time: ~8:00pm
Short day today.
I welded up the intercooler piping and started painting.
I went ahead and clear coated the Twilight Blue (DupliColor brand) with DupliColor Truck & SUV clear coat and I'm happy with the results.
I have no idea what is supposed to make it Truck & SUV.
I used a satin black anti-rust paint as a primer. (ColorPlace from Wal Mart)
I guess we'll see how tha works out.
I started fitting pieces of the exhaust but haven't made a single weld yet after the down pipe.
Ambient pipe is primered.
IHI compressor housing after clear coat:
I might replace this blurry pic later.
Start time: ~6:00pm
End time: ~10:30pm
Today I reinstalled the intercooler piping to see if they were going to be in the way of the oil return line.
Luckily they are not.
My friend/coworker Dan will be welding an aluminum 5/8" OD pipe to my cast aluminum oil pan for a drain.
Dan built a 3-wheeled Vortex and it's now on the road!
I got to ride in it today and it's sweet! :grin:
It will need to be 90* to properly clear the drive shaft.
Before I dropped the oil pan to take it to Dan tomorrow I installed the necessary plumbing at the oil sending unit for the oil feed and oil pressure gauge.
The sending unit is 1/4 NPT and hardware can be found at ACE Hardware.
I used Ultra Copper high temp gasket stuff to seal the threads.
Plumbing hardware includes: 2x 1/4" FPT T's, 2x 1/4" NPT double-sided threaded sections to mate the 2 T's, 2x 1/4" NPT -to- 1/8" FPT adapters, and a 90* 1/8" NPT -to- -3AN adapter.
One of the adapters if for the oil pressure gauge, and the other is for the oil feed line.
My oil feed line is Teflon with a stainless steel cover, made by Aeroquip.
I still have to cut it to length and install the swivel ends.
(FYI: FPT means Female NPT)
Removing the sending unit made the the installation of the T's etc very easy.
The T's will NOT have room to turn without at least loosening the 4 bolts holding in the sending unit.
Removing the oil pan was pretty easy.. installing it looks to be more challenging as I may need to loosen the transmission in order to properly align it and for the gasket RTV to adhere properly.
The oil pan fits snugly between an engine plate on the passenger's side, and the tranny.
Once all bolts are removed holding in the oil pan are removed (they are pretty obvious, no hidden bolts) the oil pan can be removed.
I gently pried at one side until it budged and seperated from the block..
Then I tapped that side back up to meet the block, and did the same on the other side.
Once the seal was broken all the way around the oil pan will pull down with minor prying.
Tomorrow I need to find the PCV valve!
It's apparently behind the intake manifold...
I'll be installing a PCV valve from an 88 Tbird.. assuming I can make it fit.
This one is for Dan so he can visualize what I need:
55lb Siemens Deka 3172 injectors and wiring harness adapters:
MAFia for the 2005+ Ford:
Oil feed/gauge hardware:
Oil sending unit:
Held in by 4x 10mm bolts.
Green thing is the oil temp sensor.
Threads are 1/4" NPT
Sending unit removed and plumbing installed:
TIP: when using an RTV style sealant, leave the first thread bare and then you can liberally apply the RTV to the rest of the mating threads.
This way the RTV won't squeeze out INTO the pipe.
Who cares if it squeezes out the outside!
EDIT: I'll use Teflon tape in the future, even though these have not leaked.
Sending unit and hardware reinstalled:
Oil pan removed:
Rotating assembly, shot from driver's side.
Oil pan removed:
Rotating assembly, shot from passenger's side.
Here you can see the plate mentioned previously.
Piston, third from the driver's side.
I took pics of the oil pan removed, but apparently got oil on the lens of my cam so the pics were blurry! :wallbash:
Will post oil pan pics when I get it back from Dan.
Damn one hell of a write up cant wait to see finished product.
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