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Old 03-28-2007, 04:21 AM   #1
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The nightmare is over. (Slightly long)

I hope.

New ignition cylinder. Check.
Nused transmission. Installed.
New PATS transceiver. Done.
New VSS. Present.

As I'm driving around Saturday, enjoying the weather and my new-to-me ZX3, I hear a turbo whooshing.

Which is strange since I wasn't driving near anything turbo equipped, and I don't have one.

Pull over to check it out. Turns out a hose that runs from the EGR tube to the DPFE came loose. OK, pop it back on and head towards the shop I work at to requisition a new section of vacuum hose to replace it. I make it within five blocks of work when the whoosh returns. Seconds later she dies. I coast half a block, through a green light and out of traffic.

She cranks healthy. Check the fuses for the fuel system. Good. Take a risk and try to bring up a code on the odometer while turning her over. It works.

PO9359. No clue what that is (at the time).

Walk to the shop and get a wrecker. Tow my baby back to the yard. Luckily one of our mechanics was still there w. a scanner.

PO113 - Intake Air Temperature.
PO755 - Invalid Speed Sensor Input.
PO1000 - Monitor Test Incomplete.

Ooookay. Six wire MAF plug means Intake Air Sensor is integral w. the MAF sensor. Clean w. no obviously damaged wires. Decide to not let this ruin the rest of the weekend. Leave her at work. Monday comes, and I check:

Fuel - No schrader valve (like on GM's) to check for fuel pressure at the injector rail. Pop a line off the filter. Pressurized, unlikely to be the pump.
Spark - No spark at the plug wires. Power to the coil, but no pulse out to the plugs. Uh-huh. Perhaps a coil? Nope. The new coil has no effect.

A mechanic suggests checking for RPMs w. a scanner, thinking maybe the Crank Position Sensor went out. No RPMs. The CPS (like everything else for a Focus) is special order, and in the spirit of 'nothing can be simple' has two designs available.

Mad as all get out, I begin to check every reachable sensor plug and wire.

Remember the whooshing sound? As I look behind the coil towards the firewall, I see crispy plastic. The whoosh was engine temperature exhaust gases venting out the open EGR tube, which proceed to melt through the wiring harness that is inches behind.

No wonder the codes didn't jive. Multiple wires (about 14) fused together were likely shorting and interfering w. each other.

So today, I spent close to four hours cutting, separating and patching in almost four feet of wire to repair the burned harness wires. Good as new.

Check those EGR hoses, and remember, sometimes the cause is right under your nose, but not what you might think.


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Old 07-20-2009, 01:54 PM   #2
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PO755 "Shift Solenoid B" Engine Code Message

A couple of months ago my dauaghters' 2003 started having shift problems at higher highway speeds. The service engine light came on and I took it to AutoZone for them to read the code. The OBD II code was: PO755 "Shift Solenoid B Open or shorted".
I ended up taking the transmission pan off after draining the oil, and sure enough, there are (6) solenoids inside-3 on each side. Of the (3) facing the passenger side, the first one on the left has a (I'll call it) maroon/purple color wire attached to it. The middle one has a white wire. I knew my problem was going to be with one of those two. From what I had read here, I figured it to be the center solenoid with the white wire. It wasn't though!
My daughters' solenoid problem turned out to be the one on the left with the maroon/purple wire. When I put a meter to it, and put the meter to the ohms scale, it read open. It should have read approximately 15 ohms, like the middle solenoid, or like the new one that I had to buy.
You have to go to Ford, by the way, to get a new solenoid (model #XS49-7H148). Price was about $45 plus tax.
I installed the new solenoid, changed the transaxle filter and added new Mercon V transmission oil. (Seems to me that changing the transmission filter and adding new, clean transmission oil is the common sense thing to do when you've got 80,000 miles on it.
The transmission shifts smooth now. I ended up turning the engine light off with the OBDII scanner rather than waiting for it to turn itself off after (3) cycles.
All's fine.
Hope this helps someone.
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