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Old 10-08-2012, 06:01 PM   #11
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So, essentially, if I have the right information (like a rebuild book) and the right tools, it's really just a matter of following instructions and not rushing?
Yup, honestly. Id learn how to tune a carb. Its an art that is slowly dying and people get paid well to do it.
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Old 10-08-2012, 06:43 PM   #12
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So, essentially, if I have the right information (like a rebuild book) and the right tools, it's really just a matter of following instructions and not rushing?
Sort of. Maybe. Possibly. One of the great things about a forum like this is all the help available to you.
I would still get a modern engine to learn on.

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Old 10-08-2012, 07:23 PM   #13
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Lol. I like the definitive answer. Haha. That's the benefit of the 'net for sure. I would probably look for a 90's era engine then. Probably Honda then, due to availability and prices. Doesn't seem like there's enough difference to warrant going for something archaic.
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Old 10-08-2012, 07:43 PM   #14
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I like agreeing with Alex. mostly what I was about to say when i clicked on the thread. screw ups are cheap on those. parts are cheap and there's tons of info. tolerances are a bit more loose for old engines.

VW engine rebuild. not my first choice... what with having to heat the pistons up to a certain temp either for measurement or fitment. (I believe that was one odd thing)

Carb rebuilds are nice to know... industry is in real demand of people that know electrical. and its really not as bad as you think.

if you want a challenge, rebuild a 99' era Toyota 4 cylinder. factory over and under size bearings and pistons for precision fitting.
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Old 10-08-2012, 07:54 PM   #15
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I suggest a motorcycle engine for a first time engine rebuild.
A single cylinder is best. Hard to mess it up and you can learn a lot.
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Old 10-08-2012, 08:04 PM   #16
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I suggest you find an old Pontiac. The first engine I rebuilt was a 400ci Pontiac v8. Eighteen years later it still runs fine. It must be a forgiving design, because I remember screwing up several things.
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:04 PM   #17
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I vote sbc 350 cheap, easy, parts every were
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:39 PM   #18
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VW boxer motor. They can be put together poorly and still run.
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:42 PM   #19
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I have a 1.9L Opel GT engine with a Weber carb that you can rebuild if you want to come over to WA... lol. Its super straight foreword and small, but parts are a BEEOTCH to find. I'd suggest a single cylinder Ninja 250 though. You can buy the whole bike for cheap, the engines have been around forever, and there are millions of them on the earth.

If you really want to do a car engine, the tried and true 350 would be a good start. Parts are everywhere.
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Old 10-09-2012, 05:32 AM   #20
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The old V8's are easier to find parts for, but really modern engines are not all that difficult. Our 16v engines have fewer parts because the cam hits directly on top of the valve. Parts are not that cheap though. You can build a V8 for less than what it costs to build either a Zetec or Duratec.

Getting the crankshaft halves together correctly is tricky on air cooled VWs. You'll need to make some special tools (dowel set-up with some wood) and use a few tricks. Those engines are light though. You can pick them up without much assistance. Don't catch one on fire or drop it though. Magnesium is not forgiving. Cast iron is more forgiving, but will break stuff if it falls on anything. Typical weight for a bare V8 block is around 200 lbs, complete is over 500- except FSBs that are like 450 depending on if you have aluminum heads.

If you find the right vehicle, and the condition of the sleeves is good, you can rebuild one of these engines in the vehicle. That saves some pain and suffering. It's not exacto perfectomundo, but it will run fair to middlin as long as the cam bearings are ok and don't get screwed up. You can probably get those out and back in with it still in the vehicle, but I haven't done it. Likewise, crank bearings don't usually have to be replaced unless there was severe oil loss or extreme age. That's your junkyard build there. If you do go removing stuff you need to be careful how you store the crank and cam. I would remove those last after you have your new parts- that's the easiest way to store them properly. If the rod bearings were really worn out, then you won't be able to do that because the crank will need to be turned.

LOL who's paying to have a carb tuned? I can understand paying someone to tune and sync webers on an old MG, but not a quadrajunk, thermoclunk, or motorcrap. I send a big F-U out to Holley for power-valves and stupid people, and another F-U out to Edelbrock for being tuned to a 350 out of the box but damn near impossible to tune right for a 340. Maybe it works on a 302, I don't know. Japanese carburetors do not tune. Yes you can do it, but to do it correctly you need to have a propane sensor which is a $400+ tool if you can even find them any more. Once someone messes with one of those, it's junk. I've never been able to get one right. 99% of the time, the carbs problems were caused by one of the 40+ vacuum lines being bad- usually close to the carb. The idiots who messed with the screws are the same idiots who mess with throttle plate stops on EFI cars nowadays.

You want advice from an online forum? Sometimes you get the throttle plate Jap carb killers, and sometimes you get experts. Most of the time it's in-between and you have to figure out what's up.

OOOOOOOOO!!!!!!! I know one, easy to find: locate you a mid 80's to early 90's S-10 with a 2.5 (151 cid) 4 cyl- the Iron Duke! That's a wacky pushrod 4 cyl that is not difficult nor expensive to build. Cranks can be bought for about $90 on that S-10 version which doesn't need a balance shaft drive like the FWD Buicks/Olds do. If you can find a Pontiac, it has the 2.5 with a cam driven oil pump also, and doesn't need the balance shaft drive. Those are fairly straightforward, lightweight, but it's 2/3 of a I6 not half a V8. For that matter, a Ford with a 2.3 is not hard to find, and that engine is not difficult to build either. Performance parts are available for both of those engines.
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