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Old 07-13-2016, 09:58 AM   #1
Focus Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Fan#: 285458
Location: Sulphur, LA
What I Drive: 2004 SVTF ZX5 EAP

Posts: 72
Points 620, Level 12
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You can follow my build on instagram
@SVT_Focused



So I recently decided to get a little more powerful car because I missed my SVT Cobra so much. I thought about getting another cobra to build on the side or maybe even going over to the "darkside" (as some may call it ha!) and getting a subaru WRX or STi.. I thought long and hard then came to the conclusion that I can get more power, keep my reliable SVT Focus, and have gobs of fun just by boosting my focus. I did a lot of research on the forums and decided that a turbo build is the definitely the way to go for me. I shopped around; looking at kits, parts, accessories.. Nothing really caught my eye. I came across Tom's DIY Turbo Kit while in the process of looking (go figure ha!). I contacted Tom and began asking a million questions. Mean while, FF's very own JaFocus01 was also helping me out by answering most of my noob questions and helping put me on the straight and narrow path that leads to boost! After almost a week of talking with Tom and JaFocus01 about my goals and whatnot, I decided that this was it.. time for BOOST! I bought Tom's DIY Turbo kit and continued shopping around to piece together everything else that I needed to turbocharge my car.

My goal, as you can see in the title, is 300whp. I hoping to be able to do it on pump gas as well. No race fuel for me. Ha! The car is currently my daily. So I tried to make sure I had all my basis covered, so that I could order all I needed at once time and start and finish the build ASAP.

Lets get this started.. Also, I hope this thread can be very useful for other people down the road who think about boosting their SVT focus.

Here is a list of everything I have

Focus-Power – DIY Turbo Kit
What You Get:
• SPA Manifold
• 2.5 Down pipe with V-Band clamp for ease of install
• Waste gate down pipe going back into the 2.5 down pipe slip style
• Piping from Turbo to Intercooler
• Intercooler that is 8 x 31 x 3.5 this sucker flows like crazy and cools very well
• Piping from Intercooler to TB
• Piping from Turbo to Filter in the inner fender well
• Bracket for intake piping
• Price: (ZX3 or SVT) $1495.00
Options Will Be:
• Comp Turbo with v-band installed ($795.00 When bought with DIY Kit ) This is a very good spooling turbo yet will make 350HP at the wheels with a built engine
• Oil pan with bung welded in ($95.00), if you exchange oil pans ($35.00)

What You Need To Get:
• Turbo
o $795 option with DIY Kit

• 3 Inch MAF Tube
o $90
o https://www.c-f-m.com/performancepar...-Focus-p76.htm

• BOV
o $30
o Universal Adjustable Billet Aluminum Type RS PSI Turbo Blow Off Valve BOV Blue | eBay

• Waste Gate / Adapter
o $263
o Turbonetics 10780 Wastegate Kit Evolution | eBay
o $40
o 2 Bolt Wastegate Adapter for Spa Turbo L Fitting Manifolds ADKTVL03 | eBay

• Hoses (2) 2 inch , (1) 2 to 2.5 , (2) 2.5 , (2) 2.5 to 3 inch (1) 3 inch
o $8+ $6 + $11 + $12 + $6 = $43
o (2) 2”x3” 2" Straight Silicone Coupler Hose Turbo Intercooler Intake Piping Pipe Black | eBay
o (1) 2” to 2.5”x3” Black Red 2" to 2 5" 2 1 2" Straight Silicone Hose Reducer Turbo 51 63mm Coupl | eBay
o (2) 2.5”x3” Black 2 5" 2 1 2 Straight Silicone Hose Pipe 63mm Intercooler Coupler Turbo | eBay
o (2) 2.5” to 3”x3” Black 2 5" 2 1 2" to 3" Straight Silicone Hose Reducer Turbo 63 76mm Coulper | eBay
o (1) 3”x3” Black 3" 3 0" Straight Silicone Hose Pipe 76mm Intercooler Coupler Turbo | eBay

• Oil feed line -3
o $40
o Precision 36" 3AN Oil Feed Line Kit 3AN Straight to 3AN 90 Deg Female Ends | eBay

• Oil return (drain) line
o $43
o New Turbo Oil Drain Return Feed Line T3 T4 T04E T60 T61 T70 Complete Kit | eBay

• Diablosport Mafia
o $171
o https://www.discountbandit.com/diabl...brator-24.html

• 60lb Injectors
o $120
o New Set of 4 60lb EV1 Fuel Injectors for VW Audi Ford 630cc 1 8T Turbo 2 3L | eBay

• AFR Gauge
o $140
o https://www.amazon.com/AEM-30-4110-U...ords=AFR+Gauge

• Exhaust
o $420
o 00-07 Ford Focus Exhaust - with Magnaflow - 3.0 inch - Mandrel Exhaust Systems

• Parts to buy locally
o $150 (approx. assumption)
o Vacuum lines, Filter, Clamps 16, Bolts, Nuts, Washers, 180 deg. Thermostat

• Motorcraft SP463 Spark Plugs
o $15
o SP 463 Motorcraft AZFS22C Spark Plug Pack of 4 | eBay

• Remote Tuning
o $550

• Clutch Kit + Flywheel
o ~$900
o Clutch Masters FX400 (Stage IV) Clutch - SVT Focus
o Clutch Masters Flywheel for '02-04 SVT/ST170 Focus for Clutch Masters Clutch

• PCV Delete
o $60
o http://www.c-f-m.com/performancepart...m#.V4rmCbgrLmE

• Boost Gauge
o $?
o ???


__________ = Paid For
__________ = Not Paid For
__________ = Parts Arrived




I will try to frequently update this post for all of you who desire to follow along in my quest for 300whp.

7-13-16
Flywheel and diaoblosport mafia has arrived.

7-15-16
Clutch kit has arrived

7-20-16
PCV Delete and Magnaflow exhaust has arrived (Exhaust installed)

9-14-16
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrokenBlades View Post
Update: 9-14-16

The turbo and intercooler have arrived late last week. Comp took MUCH MUCH longer to build the turbo than expected. Sadly I won't be able to start until December. I was wanting to be finished by now, but things don't always go according to plan. So Lord willing I can start the second week of December, after the Fall 2016 semester is over.
(Pictures in the original post above. ^)

12-1-16
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrokenBlades View Post
It has been a long time since I updated this post. Its been a long 5 month between getting all this together and finishing up this past fall semester. Winter break is right around the corner, so I am looking forward to beginning the actual work on this project. I will do my best to keeping the original post updated as I go through the process of turbocharging my focus. This is my first big project like this and first turbocharged vehicle to own. I am hoping to document everything and included detailed information. My goal is that people here can refer others to this thread for instructions on how to go about this process. All that said, I thank all those who have helped me thus far. The project shall begin soon. Next week is finals week. After that I shall begin the install ASAP.
12-19-16
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrokenBlades View Post
UPDATE: 12-19-16

Morning, peeps! Sorry for not updating this a little sooner. I got back from school for winter break and have been super busy. Things are starting to slow down a bit. Lord willing, I plan to do some preliminary work: compression test and maybe mount intercooler. Thanks for y'all's patience. I'm taking my time, but I want to do everything right.. I guess if I was going to be extra right then I would have done a compression test a while back. Ha! Better late than never. Might try to install new clutch tomorrow. I planned on doing that before this past semester started, but I was far too busy before the semester started.
12-25-16
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrokenBlades View Post
Update: 12-25-16

Merry Christmas to you all!!

Well yesterday I started this project. First thing was to begin disassembling and some preliminary work.

Step One: Stage 4 clutch and flywheel installation.

Instructions for this is located elsewhere in this forum. So I just leave the link to the thread I've been using. I haven't finished though. Yesterday was mostly just taking things apart. I'm hoping to at least get the transmission out of the car today.

Here is a picture of where I left off yesterday.


Here is the transmission thread I was going off of.
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/s...ge=1&_k=f490fi
12-29-16
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrokenBlades View Post
Update: 12-29-16

Didn't get much work done on the car because I had to run a lot of errands. But I did change the brake pads though. Ha! Gotta be able to stop with this new found power. Haha!
12-30-16
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrokenBlades View Post
Update: 12-30-16
Got the tranny back in the car.
Step 2: I went ahead and started to mount the intercooler and exhaust manifold and turbo so that I could mock up piping. First I noticed that I need to remove the PCV.

So I installed the CFM PCV Delete. I will run it to a catch can later.
Then I noticed my turbo was hitting the crankshaft position sensor.

So I unplugged it for mocking up, but I will have to get a shorter one to plug in and then I'll solder it to the old wires. Otherwise the turbo will hit the sensor while installed. Next was the install the downpipe from turbine to flex pipe for exhaust. This was very difficult to do due to fabrication of holes and nearness of the AC Compressor.

Not sure what happened in the fabrication stage, but the holes would not line up with the existing three bolts on the flex pipe. Not a problem. I just got the next size up drill bit and re-drilled the holes.. Done!

Now this part does make me nervous. This downpipe that bolts onto the turbine is RIGHT next to the AC compressor. (Left of picture)

I don't like that. Has anyone else done Tom's setup and kept their AC? Tom said that I can keep my AC with this kit, but this is too close for comfort. I might could just wrap it with heat wrap. But it'll be even closer after that. Also, you can see that the entire this is a little crooked in the picture and is very close to the transmission.




That's all for today.
12-30-16
Quote:
A cool shot that my friend took today.
Update: 1-2-17
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrokenBlades View Post
Forgot to update this earlier. I hope everyone had a good New Year's Day though.

Saturday I got all of my piping mocked up. This pipe is obvious to where it goes, but incase you want to see. This L shaped pipe with the flange goes in the downpipe and bolted down to the wastegate.


I ran the 2" piping, supplied from Tom, from the intercooler to turbo.


Done. That was as easy.

Next was the other side of the intercooler, which runs to the throttle body. First, remove the existing rubber piece that is loose and connected to the TB. Then out a 3" hose over the TB and stick in the L shaped pipe that goes from 3" to 2.5". Connect the MAF next and then the pipe that has the BOV flange.

In order to keep my battery location then I had to do some slight modifications. First of all was to cut out in this corner behind the headlight.

This is what it will look like installed.

If you go back three pictures up then I'll have a picture of the engine bay from a top view. You see the black bracket that holds in the factory air box? That bracket also had to be cut. I don't have a picture now but can get one later. Nevertheless, in that third picture up then you can see where the piping hits that bracket. I cut where you can see the piping in the picture. There is a spot that you can see on the bracket where it begins the curve upwards. I cut slightly diagonal at that point. Then smoothed out where I cut. When you install that pipe then make sure it is pushed down and that the BOV is close to the shock tower.

EDIT: In the picture below you can see where I cut. Look at where the flashlight is pointing to on the bracket, right by the hole. I cut a near vertical line right around there.

My first thought was to take the whole bracket off since I won't be using the factory air box anymore. But I soon realized that the bracket is also used the screw in the mount for the battery. So I installed the bracket and cut it.
Update: 1-3-17
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrokenBlades View Post
I just realized that I ordered the wrong MAFia. I got the F7374, which has a 96-04 fitting on itself, but it has a 05+ fitting on the wire. The correct one you need is F7373. I found one on eBay for $100 and ordered that today.

Today I also bought a bung to weld into the oil pan for oil return. I believe it was a -10an fitting. What I got was a -10an to 1/2" NPT from Napa. I also found a -3an to 1/8" NPT from Bumper to Bumper auto store. It was the only one that had it. Looking back now I should have just gone with a -4an feed instead of -3an. Since the turbo uses an oil restrictor then I could have used the -4an lines. Well it doesn't matter anymore. I have the parts I need. The -4an to 1/8npt is way more common to find anyways.

Today I also ordered an oil catch can for the PCV delete that I got from CFM. Today my gasket for exhaust manifold to turbo arrived, as well as the boost controller I got. I will provide links below.

Gasket: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WT...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Boost Controller: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WJ...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Oil Catch Can: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B019O..._st_dp_summary
Update: 1-6-17
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrokenBlades View Post
Update: 1-6-17

Long story short.. Comp turbo couldn't get me a oil feed restrictor until too late and for real expensive shipping. I decided to make my own restrictor. The size for the Journal Bearing turbos is 0.065. So right over 1/16". I bought a 1/4-28 tap kit, 1/4" set screw, and a 1/16" drill bit. First part was drill the -3an to 1/8"npt with a 7/32" bit. Then tap the hole and screw in the set screw (be sure to use red loctite and allow 24 hours to cure). Finally, I drilled the set screw with the 1/16" bit. 1/16" is 0.0625. So a little smaller than 0.065. You can probably leave it as is and it would be fine. I went ahead and rotated my 1/16" drill bit (vertically only) a little to make the hole a hair bigger.

PS. I bought a proper restrictor later.




Another problem I ran into. The manifold bolted up fine.. With the exception of the hole directly under the manifold where the turbo bolts in.

It is physically impossible to get a factory screw into there. Not a problem though. I got a fit for that. I bought a M8x1.25 bolt from the store and got a nut for it. I cut the head off and then cut the bolt a little shorter to 1-5/8" in length. I screw it all the way into the block, put the manifold on, and put the nut on the threads sticking out. (NOTE: I installed the manifold with the turbo already bolted to it.


Next was to start putting things back together. I will get more pictures later of everything in detail. I bought a universal 3" K&N air filter from an auto store.


I ran the vacuum from the BOV to this brake booster and just used a tee to get it in there. Next step is to set up the vacuum for wastegate. I have it already plugged into the boost controller (use bottom hole of wastegate for the vacuum). My turbo doesn't have a nipple for vacuum, so I will put a nipple in the hose on the cold side where the turbo connects to the intercooler. Get a quick tap nipple or use a regular nipple but with a thick washer and jam nut.

Also, I put the oil pan back in the car. I welded in a -10an (if I remember correctly) bung that I bought from Napa. I think it was a -10an fitting. I brought my oil return hoses with me and had them make sure it fits.

Not much work left to do. Should be soon.
Update: 1-10-17
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrokenBlades View Post
Update: 1-10-17

Saturday I did the rest of the work needed for putting the car back together. First order of business was to install the oil pan. I took my oil return line to Napa and they found me a fitting. Got that welded in on the opposite side of the oil drain and a few inches over.


Also, I forgot to post a picture of the oil catch can I installed. I ran a hose from the PCV delete to the oil catch can (will need to buy a fitting to screw into the aluminum piece from CFM and run a line to the catch can.). You can't get too big of a hose. If you get the catch can that I got then I would recommend finding a bigger nipple that will screw into the top. In order to get my hose to fit I had to run the hose to a small metal reducer that I got from advanced auto parts and then the other end of the reducer I had a smaller hose to run to the catch can. I will upgrade soon to a bigger nipple so I can get rid of the reducer. For the other inlet of the catch can I ran a hose to from the valve covers to the catch can. I used the same hose that the factory uses to run to the factory air box, but in order for it to fit around the nipple then I had to get a smaller piece of hosing that fits around the nipple, cut it about 1/2" long, and then stick the bigger hose over the smaller one that fits into the catch can. It's some redneck engineering. But this is just a simple catch can and not as big of a deal. Make sure you check your catch can regularly. For the drain I just plugged it up. Others have run another hose on the drain and added a peacock (on/off switch) for easy of draining in the future.


Next was vacuum lines. I ran the BOV vacuum line and teed it into this one (brake booster I believe)

For the wastegate you will need to run the bottom nipple as a vacuum to the turbo. My turbo doesn't have a nipple. So get a quick tap nipple from Amazon for $10.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01NB..._st_dp_summary

I didn't get a picture of it hooked up. But it's just like the last photo on this website.
http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant...Category_Code=

After vacuum lines were run then I wanted to run the AEM Air to Fuel Wideband gauge. I found the best way to install it as follows: hook up the exhaust to the down pipe (You must leave the exhaust bolted from now on, so doing this as a later step may be helpful), run the bung down to thru the side of the turbo. I ran mine through the manifold for ease of install, but that became a problem when I tried to get the plug away from the manifold. The key to installing this is to keep the cord vertical. So I recommend running it below the manifold and on top of the turbo so you can screw in the bung.

After it is screwed in then you can reroute the cable appropriately. To tighten the bung I had to get creative. See the wrench on top of the cat? It took some work but it turned out good.

I then had to run the other cable through the firewall and into the cab. I found a new place to drill right under the throttle cable. Measure twice and drill once. You don't want to hit something on the other side. No picture. Sorry. I forgot.


I think that's about it. I think I have covered most of it. So here is some other pictures I took. This may help some visual learners see how I installed the pipping and all.


NOTE: You want the oil return line as short as possible, but do not put the cable in a bind. I accidentally got mine in a bind and will have to either get a longer cable or replace the 45 fitting with a 90. I went with a new 90 fitting. No picture of new fitting though. Here is the other one.

Here are more pictures.





Okay. Everything is together and ready for tuning. Before you do anything then you need to prime the oil. I don't know how you change your oil, but for priming purposes then I recommend filling your oil filter up about halfway before installing it. Then you will need to unplug your distributor caps (be sure to document which goes where). This will allow you to turn the car over without creating a spark. Also note that I changed my injectors and spark plugs the day before and forgot to document. It's easy though you can figure it out. Once I unplugged the distributor caps then I got in the car and turned it over (with out starting it because it had no spark) until I saw oil come out of the oil feed line (which was sitting in a water bottle to catch the oil). You may need to turn it over for the oil to come out. But it's a good idea to do this so the turbo has oil on first start up. Go ahead and put the oil need back on the turbo.

I ran into two problems next. On first start up I wasn't careful enough. I accidentally had something (a hose clamp) snagged on the throttle and it was wide open and I was unaware. So I started the car and it revved up the 7k rpm and I got freaked and shut the car off until I found the issues. Next was to start over. I started the car and it ran fine for a few seconds until I noticed smoke. Now I'm not sure which. Could be a few things. 1) it's cold outside and my exhaust isn't tightened all the way (this happened to be a problem in this case). 2) there was oil all over the place and on random things and was burning off (also a problem in this case). 3) my homemade restrictor was too big and my turbo was smoking. The third one is possible but I think it was too soon for that to happen. I'm not a machinist though. So I could be wrong. I should have left the car running, so the oil that was all over the place could go ahead and burn off of everything, but I wasn't thinking about that and I shut the car off. So I decided to try to start over again after I tightened my exhaust and my oil feed line (make sure the oil feed in the block has Teflon on it). This time my car started to turn over and had a huge backfire. Uh oh. On my car backfired the starter got stuck in the flywheel and kept trying to start the car over and over again. I took out the key and it kept in the same thing, so I quickly disconnected the battery and everything stopped. It was at that time that I noticed that I blew up my intake manifold.


So I took the manifold out of the car and also took the starter out of the car (to make sure it fully disengaged from the flywheel) and then out put it back in. I'm not sure how this applies to some of the newer cars, but I know with some of the older cars when that happens you can tap the starter with a extension or something like that and sometimes it will break loose and disengage from the flywheel. That was not the case for my car, so I had to take out the starter and reinstall it. It wasn't a problem once the intake manifold was off the car. All the bolts were clearly visible.

That is where I am at now. I ordered a new factory intake and it should be here for this weekend. I also went ahead and orders a proper restrictor for my oil feed. My homemade one was a good idea, but it wasn't probably machined. I don't want to screw up my new turbo. So I bought a proper restrictor on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005D...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I also ordered a Bosch boost gauge on Amazon. It is cheap, so I don't know if it will work well, but it has good reviews and I'm willing to try it out. I should have ordered that gauge a long time ago. I also need to figure out how I want to mount it in the car. I'll probably buy a pillar later.
Update: 1-15-17
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrokenBlades View Post
Update: 1-15-17

Quote:
Originally Posted by MAZX3 View Post
looking at your oil catch can,... is there a breather on that can I don't see? Otherwise i think you just sealed your crankcase and that's not good,...
It was a cheap oil can I got. But I took your advice about the breather and I did some homemade "custom" work. I drilled and tapped the top, added a male to male adapter and then screwed in and clamped the new breather. Totally not factory, but I think it'll do the job. Haha!


I also, got a picture of the adjustments made to my oil return. Previous I had it in a bit of a bind and it made my nervous. I wrapped the bottom of the downpipe with heat wrap (probably not necessary because of the steel braided hose, but it set my mind at ease.) and, added a 90 fitting and put on a shorter, straight AN fitting onto the hose. Looks much better now and it's not in a bind.


I didn't get any pictures, but my replacement intake manifold arrived yesterday and I installed it. Doing that was a pain. Word of advice.. Have a car lift if you can, because I was doing work from the top and bottom to get bolts back in place. Anyways, I started by taking off the part of the IM (intake manifold) that bolts into the engine and has the hoses connected to it from the factory. Once I got all those bolts out (look at the new IM to see where the bolts are) then I pulled the whole thing out and swapped fuel rail and injectors into my new IM. Not that (I don't know if yours may be like this) the two bottom bolts on the far ends of the IM bolted into the engine were not really bolts, but rather a stud with a nut on it (like what I did for my exhaust manifold). You will have to take the nuts off and take out the stud. Be careful, but I used a 5mm socket and was very careful with it. Next was to install the new IM. Here is the tricky part. First, put in the big part (the part I blew up on my old one) and get a friend to hold it out of the way if you can. Second, put in the part that bolts onto the engine and put some screws in to hold it in place. I found the best way to do this was to stick a bolt in the far driver side bottom and put in another bolt in the top middle area (don't tighten down bolts fully yet. Just get some threads on it). Next is the reinstall the bracket on the passenger side that can be used to pull the engine out. I then got under the car to try and screw in the two bottom bolts that were hard to get to. Took a while but I finally got it. Continue putting in the remaining bolts. Again, refer to old IM for bolt hole pattern or whatever else you may need. I got everything back in and tightened down tight.

I also did a few more things. I replaced my homemade restrictor with a machined restrictor I bought online. I also installed a boost gauge. Easy to do. It just needs power, ground, and a vacuum line. I think that's it. Be sure to not break other vacuum lines down the road. I was fortunate enough to get the vacuum lines off the old IM (the new one had the same lines already installed) and use their connections for lines I broke.

Time to start the car.. But wait, my wideband isn't working properly. I don't know what the problem is. I'm very confident that I wired it up properly. When it is plugged in and I turn the key then the wideband should turn on. Mine does not. I checked with a multimeter and it got power. I even feel the gauge getting warmer from the power source. It's like the display is broken. I'll need to get that fixed or replaced. I never dropped it or anything. This is how it has been from the factory. I started the car anyways. It ran smooth but I still had an exhaust leak where the wastegate discharge meets the turbo downpipe. A 1-3/4" exhaust clamp fixed that right up. Started the car again and everything ran smoothly, but the exhaust was spewing out some nasty white smoke that smelt like gas. Probably running really rich and just needs a proper tune. Today I will do a 5 min idle log and send it to Tom for tuning.
Update: 1-15-17
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrokenBlades View Post
Update: 1-15-17

Today I got a 5 min idle datalog and sent it to Tom. Lord willing I'll get a good tune tomorrow and be good to do.

NOTE: Teflon every that has fluid running through it. I forgot and had to Teflon my oil return.
Update: 1-16-17
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrokenBlades View Post
Update: 1-16-17

Got the car up and running today. Did some datalogging and drove it around town today. A few more bugs to work out in tuning and she'll be completely. I'm glad she is at least drivable now.





Last edited by BrokenBlades; 01-16-2017 at 05:30 PM. Reason: Updates
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Old 07-13-2016, 10:01 AM   #2
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Join Date: Jan 2016
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Location: Sulphur, LA
What I Drive: 2004 SVTF ZX5 EAP

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If I have missed something then please let me know. I'm really looking forward to starting my turbo build.
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Old 07-13-2016, 10:12 AM   #3
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Thought this would need a move to the Showroom until I read the detail here.

Good start on a build/discussion thread for the Turbo project with useful detail for anyone considering it.

(Still not sure about location, Forced Induction might get more general Turbo info.)
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Old 07-13-2016, 10:24 AM   #4
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Thought this would need a move to the Showroom until I read the detail here.

Good start on a build/discussion thread for the Turbo project with useful detail for anyone considering it.

(Still not sure about location, Forced Induction might get more general Turbo info.)
Thank you. I wasn't sure where to put it either. Since it is my SVT I figured SVT performance would be a good location to begin. I figured a moderator would move it if need be. Thanks.
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Old 07-13-2016, 12:37 PM   #5
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Looks good bud, dont think you missed anything. im going to check to see if i have a extra oil pan that already has a 10an welded in for the oil return. ill check the storage to see if theres anything else i have just layin around that you could use :-D
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Old 07-13-2016, 12:44 PM   #6
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Sounds good. Have fun.
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Old 07-13-2016, 01:01 PM   #7
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Looks good bud, dont think you missed anything. im going to check to see if i have a extra oil pan that already has a 10an welded in for the oil return. ill check the storage to see if theres anything else i have just layin around that you could use :-D
Awesome! Thanks, man.

BTW, I am getting Tom's oil pan option and will just ship him my old one after I finish the build.
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Old 07-13-2016, 04:41 PM   #8
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gotcha, ill still check in the storage see if theres anything that will help you out. I got some much stuff just laying around that my wife is begging me to get rid of lol
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Old 07-14-2016, 08:16 AM   #9
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Be sure to post lots of pics! Very interesting!!!
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Old 07-14-2016, 09:20 AM   #10
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Be sure to post lots of pics! Very interesting!!!
For sure! Once I start tearing it down I'll be snapping a lot of pictures and uploading them to the thread.
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