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Old 03-22-2013, 03:23 PM   #71
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Is there a tool to change the springs on the head without taking the head off?
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Old 03-22-2013, 03:29 PM   #72
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Yessir. You only have to pull the valve cover. I used this tool:


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Old 03-22-2013, 03:32 PM   #73
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You'll also need one of these little guys to keep the cylinder pressurized so the valve doesn't drop into the block
It screws into the spark plug hole for the cylinder you're working on and you hook it up to an air compressor
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Old 03-22-2013, 08:23 PM   #74
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Thats exactly what I meant. Sweet I know about the compressor fitting to keep the valve up while swapping the springs. Thanks a lot! How is the idle with the stage 2's? Cop bait?
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Old 03-22-2013, 08:35 PM   #75
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I have my idle set to 900 right now because it kept dying at idle when it was at 800. I miss hearing the lope though, so I think I want to change my tune so the idle set to 800, period, instead of relying on the idle air control.
As for the exhaust volume, i don't think the cams would change that much, the header is the biggest game changer there.
I did get a ticket from the CHP a couple years ago for my exhaust but I fought it & won cuz he didn't do any type of inspection
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Old 03-22-2013, 08:46 PM   #76
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I think I'm going to order the crane #2 and springs. That way I install them with the IM then tune it. U think crane 3 would be over kill?
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Old 03-22-2013, 08:51 PM   #77
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If you're planning on staying N/A AND doing aftermarket pistons, then def go for the stage 3's, if you're keeping the stock pistons then do stage 2's, if you're planning on going F/I than keep the stock cams
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Old 03-22-2013, 08:52 PM   #78
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If you are doing stage 3's and aftermarket pistons, def DON'T run the cams on the stock pistons, they'll hit
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Old 03-23-2013, 08:08 AM   #79
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2's it is. Still want to keep it down enough for daily use
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Old 03-23-2013, 12:20 PM   #80
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Just ordered the massive oil trap baffle!
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