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Old 11-03-2010, 01:31 PM   #1
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performance chip?

hey guys does any one know a performance chip for the 2.3l duratec?


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Old 11-03-2010, 01:39 PM   #2
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The only way to mess with the ECU is with a SCT tuner and a professional tune. Or you can purchase the Pro Racer Package from SCT and tune yourself.

There are no "performance chips" for the duratec.
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Old 11-03-2010, 02:01 PM   #3
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http://focusport.net/sct_flasher.htm
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Old 11-03-2010, 03:38 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Notorious0ne View Post
Agreed!

I've had 2 tunes from FS and both have been fantastic.
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Old 11-03-2010, 06:15 PM   #5
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I have zero experience with this, can I easily do it like it describes on the site? Plug in, press select and follow prompts? They make it sound like it's a 5 minute job. Also does it ensure that there is a "stock" setting on it or is it easy to save it or something? I don't wanna spend 400 bucks and mess my car up or not be able to use it. Although this seems like a simple way to add HP...
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Old 11-03-2010, 06:36 PM   #6
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It is VERY easy. All you do is turn the key to the "on" position, plug in the device they send you into the OBD2 port underneath the dash, and follow the instructions it gives you on the screen. It takes less than 5 minutes and is probably the easiest modification ever to do to the car.
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Old 11-03-2010, 06:38 PM   #7
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It's not totally idiot proof (no mod is) but you could easily do it.

Also, you want to change hard parts first, then get tuning afterward to accomodate the changes you made.

For example: intake, then tune, then header, then exhaust makes far less sense than
intake, header, exhaust, tune.

The less modifications that were made, the less of an impact a tune will have. And with a naturally aspirated, simple 4 cylinder engine those gains are pretty small. But it would probably be a nice finishing touch after your planned FSW intake and exhaust. I would do it.


The band-for-your-buck factor changes a lot if boost or larger amounts of displacement are involved. Even still, the only real benefit you gain from tuning like this is 2 possible options:
1. Account for and take advantage of the modifications you've made elsewhere in or on the engine. This not only keeps things safe, but allows you to fully maximize the new parts.
2. Take advantage of the "extra room" in the factory tuning. This is easier to understand with a factory boosted car. Lets pretend like you have a Focus ST 225 from Europe. Stock boost, timing, and air/fuel ratio etc.... settings are very safe and very conservative. A tune might add some boost, lean out the air/fuel ratio, change some timing around and do any number of other things to get some horsepower and torque benefits while still remaining in a "safe zone".

If you did your intake and exhaust, you would be getting a tune for both of the above reasons, but probably more on the side of #2 since an intake and tune don't really affect how your engine operates too much.

And I am very long winded apparently. Take all what I said with a grain of salt since I am relatively inexperienced, not a tuner, and a poor mechanic.
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Old 11-03-2010, 07:44 PM   #8
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I'm not an expert on tuning the new cars, but in the dark ages of distributors with ignition points and carburators, cars were delivered with a little leeway in the tune. If the owners never did any maintenance and bought the cheapest, crappiest gas in town, the cars would still run fairly well, and not melt down. If you bought quality gas and filters, spark plugs etc. you could play with the spark advance curve and carb jetting to optimize the "tune." My mother's 1972 Lincoln Town Car would roast the rear tires and still deliver over 17 mpg after my tuning. But it would "ping" on cheap gas. Tuning the ECU today does the same thing, optimizes the timing and fuel mixture, although as pointed out, the gains on a 122-140 cubic inch engine will not be as impressive as on a 460 cubic inch engine.
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Old 11-03-2010, 08:07 PM   #9
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Thanks guy really helpful
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Old 11-03-2010, 08:32 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tallguy2.3 View Post
It's not totally idiot proof (no mod is) but you could easily do it.

Also, you want to change hard parts first, then get tuning afterward to accomodate the changes you made.

For example: intake, then tune, then header, then exhaust makes far less sense than
intake, header, exhaust, tune.

The less modifications that were made, the less of an impact a tune will have. And with a naturally aspirated, simple 4 cylinder engine those gains are pretty small. But it would probably be a nice finishing touch after your planned FSW intake and exhaust. I would do it.


The band-for-your-buck factor changes a lot if boost or larger amounts of displacement are involved. Even still, the only real benefit you gain from tuning like this is 2 possible options:
1. Account for and take advantage of the modifications you've made elsewhere in or on the engine. This not only keeps things safe, but allows you to fully maximize the new parts.
2. Take advantage of the "extra room" in the factory tuning. This is easier to understand with a factory boosted car. Lets pretend like you have a Focus ST 225 from Europe. Stock boost, timing, and air/fuel ratio etc.... settings are very safe and very conservative. A tune might add some boost, lean out the air/fuel ratio, change some timing around and do any number of other things to get some horsepower and torque benefits while still remaining in a "safe zone".

If you did your intake and exhaust, you would be getting a tune for both of the above reasons, but probably more on the side of #2 since an intake and tune don't really affect how your engine operates too much.

And I am very long winded apparently. Take all what I said with a grain of salt since I am relatively inexperienced, not a tuner, and a poor mechanic.


Posted via FF Mobile I was asking just because I have a 2004 zx3 and the mods that it has are FS CAI, FS racing header and costum exaust and one of my friends told me to find a performance chip would help me alot seens and dont want to boost my car, but yeah the only thing that I found was the SCT flasher.
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