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Old 11-04-2015, 05:41 PM   #1
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SVT rear suspension arm compatibility

Does anyone know what Focus years/models rear suspension arms (and maybe other suspension related parts) are compatible with my 2003 SVT ZX3? I do have shock/spring. My SVT is currently "totalled" (but clear title) because of a left rear quarter impact. The body including the hatch are bad, but was hoping to just get it back on the road to drive or sell. The interior/drivetrain is 9/10, 75K miles.


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Old 11-04-2015, 05:55 PM   #2
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Shocks, springs and the sway bar are now the only SVT unique parts.

Rear lower arm was initially reinforced for SVT only, that was long ago made std. for all even if they didn't have a sway bar (reinforcement plate at bar attachment hole).
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Old 11-04-2015, 06:09 PM   #3
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so what years or models can i look for at a Pick-and-pull?? does it have to be rear disk? what tools will i need to bring to the yard? I really don't want to spring for new parts...
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Old 11-04-2015, 06:28 PM   #4
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Maybe '03-'11 for the rear lower arm, you could tell on earlier than that if they were reinforced or not.

Once you get into the MkII's ('08-'11) the trailing arm has a difference, the bolt holes for the stub axle are larger.

In CA you might be OK depending where it was used, elsewhere the arms tend to be frozen in place with the bolts through the arm bushings hard to impossible to get out.
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Old 11-04-2015, 07:51 PM   #5
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Thanks so much for the info, Roger :)
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Old 11-04-2015, 07:55 PM   #6
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Hope it helps, remember seeing the nice SVT crunched.

Is the kinda ST treating you all right?
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Old 11-05-2015, 03:32 PM   #7
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I just had right shoulder surgery for a seriously torn labrum 4 weeks ago (haven't even started pt yet). Then a week ago, I had serious right hand surgery; invasive thumb carpometacarpal joint arthroplasty w/ partial trapezoidectomy AND right wrist arthroscopy w/ debridement and partial distal ulna resection!! watch just one of those thumb surgeries on utube! pretty "invasive"...

My ZX4 top end was disassembled and a full rebuild kit purchased including head gasket, gaskets, belts, hoses and water pump. That was one rear ago. When I found that I had the 2.0L, I put things on hold and am still waiting for a low mileage 2.5 long block to drop in. BTW, I still have all those parts if anyone is doing a high mileage rebuild and wants discounted prices...

This summer, I spent 8 weeks with a racing mechanic in Tucson, AZ (I used to live there). We built a track/street 2007 Miata (NC) with dyno built na 2.5L Duratec, racing 6-AT (will handle over 230 lb-ft), Bilstein PSS10's, Enkei RPF1's w/ 235/40ZR17 Nitto NT01, Kirkey racing seat w/ 6pt Simpson harness, ... So far have only tracked at Thunder Hill, Willow, CA, but plan to do Sonoma (was Infineon / Sears Point) and Mazda Laguna Seca next year. I love getting back to rwd and even the racing 6AT.

However, those NT01's don't last long on the street (the way I drive, lol), so still plan to do the 2.5L transplant to my ZX4 (with Cosworth header/flex, Borla 2.5", and CAI) and remote tune. With SVT interior, brakes and suspension and better wheels and tires, that should make a decent "grocery getter"

None of that can even get started till I get the use of my right arm and hand back
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Old 11-05-2015, 04:17 PM   #8
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Been busy, that part sounds like fun!

Shoulder/wrist/thumb not so much, working them back into normal use will take a bit, G/L and take it easy.
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Old 11-05-2015, 11:15 PM   #9
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Great to hear that your on the road to recovery, Sonia. The 25 motor sounds like a awesome mod.
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Bigger brakes then you- D23 crew- D-Tech- Sedan Revolution= #131
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Old 01-05-2016, 07:53 PM   #10
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Rear Suspension Disassembly

Quote:
Originally Posted by sailor View Post
In CA you might be OK depending where it was used, elsewhere the arms tend to be frozen in place with the bolts through the arm bushings hard to impossible to get out.
Oh, man, how prophetic is this?

Doing a trailing arm replacement. I'm in Arizona with an AZ car and I must not be living right. This was the case for me, both with the bolt through the "boomerang" and the bolt through the lower control arm attachments to the trailing arm. The bolts simply will not budge laterally inside the bushings. They'll spin all day long, but won't come out. Air hammer? Check. BFH? Check. Inventing brand spanking new, four letter words? Check.

Is there a secret that doesn't involve a stick of dynamite or a FOR SALE sign?

It appears that the nuts were factory tack welded to address this (bolt backs out if the welds are in place?), but I broke the danged welds trying to get them out. I'm nervous about tacking them back down, but might.

I put mine back together (job not completed) for now. First time doing that...

Sheesh.
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