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Old 02-03-2017, 07:48 AM   #11
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I wouldn't worry about no ABS, but then I grew up driving long before it was available.

On a drag strip adventure, if you need ABS you've 'effed' up so badly that it prob. won't help IMHO.

Turn the nannies back on, replace the fuse, back to normal before driving on the street where it can help save you from a sudden surprise & reaction - that makes sense when so equipped.
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Old 02-03-2017, 09:34 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RinzlerST View Post
That's funny that you tell me that it will help. Everyone else I have talked to said it will lessen the longevity of my car. I did not chicken out as you so eloquently said. I plan on going next week, but driving a car hard will put a hurt on on the engine. To say that is doesn't is ignorant and stupid. Thank you for your input, but the post was neither helpful or informative.
Please tell me how informed you are if you've never been. I'd love to hear.

If you aren't grinding gears, burning the clutch, or over-revving, please tell me how using a car within factory operational boundaries is going to hurt it? And even then, you can get away with these things usually hundreds of times before any noticeable damage occurs.

Fact is, driving in heavy stop and go traffic is MUCH worse for a car than a trip to the dragstrip and not purposefully abusing it by powershifting or dropping the clutch.

I have taken nearly every one of my vehicles to the drag strip. I've never had a part failure on any stock or bolt on vehicle, even on 275/50/15 drag radials, shorter gears, and exhaust on my '92 5.0L LX that went low 13's in the quarter mile banging gears so hard the bracket racers came by to see my shifter setup. STOCK. I took that car every weekend to test n tune, and on the off weeks to bracket racing.

I took my 2004 Chevy Colorado a dozen times or more. From the time I turned 16 until 26 or so, I took my 86 Mustang, 87 Mustang, 91 Civic DOHC VTEC Turbo making 325 whp, and the only parts failures were bolts backing out of the manifold due to my own inability to use safety wire. All of these were manual transmission vehicles, which have the possibility to incur more wear from abuse than automatics.
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Old 02-03-2017, 10:32 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RinzlerST View Post
That's funny that you tell me that it will help. Everyone else I have talked to said it will lessen the longevity of my car. I did not chicken out as you so eloquently said. I plan on going next week, but driving a car hard will put a hurt on on the engine. To say that is doesn't is ignorant and stupid. Thank you for your input, but the post was neither helpful or informative.
On factory tune I would call it nearly impossible to cause damage to your drivetrain at the drag strip without abusing it.

Breaking axle, over revving or clutch failure are options if you abuse it. The same can happen on any road.

Go, watch a few passes and try to find people that you can ask a few basic questions to. Make a few passes yourself to get a feel for how everything works.

Don't worry about who lines up beside you just work on improving your 60' time (launch). This single task will lead to the biggest reduction in overall time.

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Old 02-03-2017, 12:22 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailor View Post
I wouldn't worry about no ABS, but then I grew up driving long before it was available.

On a drag strip adventure, if you need ABS you've 'effed' up so badly that it prob. won't help IMHO.

Turn the nannies back on, replace the fuse, back to normal before driving on the street where it can help save you from a sudden surprise & reaction - that makes sense when so equipped.
If someone slams on the brakes at the end of the strip, no ABS could lead to a lockup.

I wouldn't ever operate a car that has ABS with it off, it's not the same as ABS delete. The hydraulic systems are designed differently.

It's a bad idea.
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Old 02-03-2017, 01:51 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by MK3 ST3 View Post
If someone slams on the brakes at the end of the strip, no ABS could lead to a lockup.

I wouldn't ever operate a car that has ABS with it off, it's not the same as ABS delete. The hydraulic systems are designed differently.

It's a bad idea.
If the run-off is that small they probably shouldn't be on that track

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Old 02-03-2017, 02:02 PM   #16
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I'm afraid we're getting off track a little into an ABS debate here, the current systems for cars are on the whole WORLDS better than the earlier ones but are still not perfect/useful in all circumstances.

The list of when they are not keeps getting shorter as they get better, but there are still some exceptions.

I beg to differ on never operating with ABS off, you do so for 99.9% plus of normal operation. If it was a bad idea to operate without it, you'd be having issues with braking every day.

The systems are absolute 'magic' when operating in the situations they were designed for. Best for single wheel or double wheel lockup due to variable traction. Second best to prevent total lockup from excessive panic braking, the original justification for use.

As some have mentioned in many discussions, the times when they are at their worst are for some specific low traction conditions of snow or dirt, and even then there are situations where they can help.

If you brake so hard as to trigger ABS at the end of a drag strip, you've continued at speed LONG past the normal braking zone. Kinda like the famous kid who went for top speed on a Florida airstrip with his buddies in a high performance car and ran off the end of the strip. ABS was NOT enough to save them all. 'Effed' up badly at that point so it prob. won't help as I specified.
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Old 02-03-2017, 04:48 PM   #17
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I'm just giving you an opinion as an engineer.

When you pull the fuse the ABS module turns off. During normal operation the ABS module IS doing things to the hydraulics. You might not perceive it, but the design of the system is such that the assumption is the ABS module is on.

Basically you are using an untested, unverified, and potentially unsafe, system by removing the ABS module from the system.
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Old 02-03-2017, 05:31 PM   #18
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I still beg to differ.

Car, truck, motorcycle ABS systems differ in operation by a LOT, yet they all have one thing in common. Direct bypass of the ABS function is the normal operation mode, as a safety against ABS failure.

For a reference example on the hydraulic systems, you need to cycle the ABS in some manner to do a full bleed of the brake fluid. Yet you can bleed them WITHOUT change of the fluid in the ABS system by normal procedures.

Typical operation involves opening a passage to an accumulator to release pressure on the wheel affected while simultaneously closing the same input from the master cylinder. And it then cycles at the programmed speed repeatedly as long as the wheel continues to vary in rotation speed from the reference to other wheels.

Pretty minimalist description, but adequate for the purpose.
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