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Old 09-29-2006, 10:09 PM   #1
I miss my Turbo SVTF
 
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Tom, you're about to build an engine for me...

...well, soon anyhoo. I figured I could send you an email as I always do, but I have a few questions that might help others, so I figure a public discussion could be beneficial..

Ok, so the 2.3L Stroker for the SVTF is my top choice; obviously. Now, as my car is running I could send you parts I gather and have you do the fun stuff for me. The block, I am going to source so you wont have to use one of yours.

-If I gave you a block, would that take money off the total price of the 2.3L?

-Can I supply a ZX3 block for my SVTF and have the $85 piston oil squirter option added? ZX3 blocks are far more available than SVTFs. Plus, why buy expensive internals for no reason??

-I notice the compression ratio for the 2.3L starts at 9.0:1 would that be a safe CR at say...22psi?

-If I have you build a motor, I feel like I'd still be limited to boost due to the intake manifold being plastic and prone to failure at high prolonged boost pressures. What are my options? Could I/ Should I get the FRPP manifold or simply port a 2000 (i think) aluminum manifold for the ZX3?

-What advantage would the 2.3L have over simply building a nice shortblock (9.0:1 Wiseco pistons, eagle rods). I am not out to hit 11's (It'd be awesome) but I just like to have a fast car. My car running mid-13s has plenty more potential with what I have and its fast as is. I just want to be safer and be able to push a little more power.

-Given the fact Im not out to build an all out race beast, should I just do a nice shortblock and call it a day? Is the 2.3L any less tame on the street?

-Last, If I sent the block (zx3 or SVTF); I know oil squirters are $85, but what if I supplied the pistons and rods? What are we looking at to just have it assembled by you? I would also send you my head and an SCI head gasket so all I have to do is drop it in (I dont want to mess with VCT and I figure no one can set it as good as you). So basically, you would assemble the short block and install the head with new water/ pump and timing belt. I will also get a new oil pump (like the upgrade that CFM has, or that you have...). I just want you to put it all together. So If you didnt have to use any of your parts, what would you charge me to put it all together for me?

Thanks for your time and I look forward to having you build me an awesome motor, whatever it may be!!


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Old 10-01-2006, 03:50 PM   #2
I miss my Turbo SVTF
 
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??
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1988 Mazda 323 GTX; 1 of 1,243 Imported
AEM CAI, VJ11 Turbo @ 20psi, 2.5" IC Pipes,
Corksport IC, CFDF Clutch, 2.5" Turboback, Konis,
Suspension Tech Springs, 22mm Rear Sway, + More.
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Old 10-01-2006, 03:52 PM   #3
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Hopefully he's less than 50% retired....
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Old 10-01-2006, 04:58 PM   #4
I miss my Turbo SVTF
 
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He still does motors, just not turbos.
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1988 Mazda 323 GTX; 1 of 1,243 Imported
AEM CAI, VJ11 Turbo @ 20psi, 2.5" IC Pipes,
Corksport IC, CFDF Clutch, 2.5" Turboback, Konis,
Suspension Tech Springs, 22mm Rear Sway, + More.
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Old 10-02-2006, 03:24 PM   #5
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Ok, so the 2.3L Stroker for the SVTF is my top choice; obviously. Now, as my car is running I could send you parts I gather and have you do the fun stuff for me. The block, I am going to source so you wont have to use one of yours.
Yes for the 2.3 stroker you have to use the CGI Block


-Can I supply a ZX3 block for my SVTF and have the $85 piston oil squirter option added? ZX3 blocks are far more available than SVTFs. Plus, why buy expensive internals for no reason??
You cannot add the squirters to the ZX3 block

-I notice the compression ratio for the 2.3L starts at 9.0:1 would that be a safe CR at say...22psi?
Yes very safe

-If I have you build a motor, I feel like I'd still be limited to boost due to the intake manifold being plastic and prone to failure at high prolonged boost pressures. What are my options? Could I/ Should I get the FRPP manifold or simply port a 2000 (i think) aluminum manifold for the ZX3?
If your plans are to go much over 20psi then go to the FR intake

-What advantage would the 2.3L have over simply building a nice shortblock (9.0:1 Wiseco pistons, eagle rods). I am not out to hit 11's (It'd be awesome) but I just like to have a fast car. My car running mid-13s has plenty more potential with what I have and its fast as is. I just want to be safer and be able to push a little more power.
What is your power goal, Lets start there


Tom
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Old 10-02-2006, 03:41 PM   #6
I miss my Turbo SVTF
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by 1turbofocus
[B]Ok, so the 2.3L Stroker for the SVTF is my top choice; obviously. Now, as my car is running I could send you parts I gather and have you do the fun stuff for me. The block, I am going to source so you wont have to use one of yours.
Yes for the 2.3 stroker you have to use the CGI Block
So, I'd have to get 100% of the parts from you for the stroker, ok, no biggie.

Quote:
-Can I supply a ZX3 block for my SVTF and have the $85 piston oil squirter option added? ZX3 blocks are far more available than SVTFs. Plus, why buy expensive internals for no reason??
You cannot add the squirters to the ZX3 block
So I have to start with an SVT Block?? There are turbo Zetec everywhere - can I do with out the squirters?

Quote:
-I notice the compression ratio for the 2.3L starts at 9.0:1 would that be a safe CR at say...22psi?
Yes very safe
Quote:
-If I have you build a motor, I feel like I'd still be limited to boost due to the intake manifold being plastic and prone to failure at high prolonged boost pressures. What are my options? Could I/ Should I get the FRPP manifold or simply port a 2000 (i think) aluminum manifold for the ZX3?
If your plans are to go much over 20psi then go to the FR intake
I hear they are not a direct fit for the SVTF's head - whats needed to 'make it work?' Could I use a ported aluminum Zetec manifold?

Quote:
-What advantage would the 2.3L have over simply building a nice shortblock (9.0:1 Wiseco pistons, eagle rods). I am not out to hit 11's (It'd be awesome) but I just like to have a fast car. My car running mid-13s has plenty more potential with what I have and its fast as is. I just want to be safer and be able to push a little more power.
What is your power goal, Lets start there
I dont have one in mind...350-400whp perhaps?
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1988 Mazda 323 GTX; 1 of 1,243 Imported
AEM CAI, VJ11 Turbo @ 20psi, 2.5" IC Pipes,
Corksport IC, CFDF Clutch, 2.5" Turboback, Konis,
Suspension Tech Springs, 22mm Rear Sway, + More.
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Old 10-02-2006, 09:16 PM   #7
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do it full up, you'll regret it otherwise
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Old 10-02-2006, 09:16 PM   #8
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Anything over 340ish you will need a full return fuel system to be safe

The stroker comes with a CGI Block now so your starting with that not a SVT block , It is much better and much stronger and the SVT head is a direct bolt on I have done many of them , The CGI also takes squirters

Tom
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Old 10-02-2006, 09:39 PM   #9
I miss my Turbo SVTF
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by 1turbofocus
Anything over 340ish you will need a full return fuel system to be safe

The stroker comes with a CGI Block now so your starting with that not a SVT block , It is much better and much stronger and the SVT head is a direct bolt on I have done many of them , The CGI also takes squirters

Tom
Im all for the CGI block. Im guessing the CGI block is included with the stroker.

Going with a return fuel system, Im guessing I need full stand alone mgmt.?

*IF* I had to go budget style....COULD I use the ZX3 bottom end built with rods and pistons? Basically, can I live w/out piston oil squirters?

I DO want the stroker, I've talked about it since you released it....its just about the $$$.
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1988 Mazda 323 GTX; 1 of 1,243 Imported
AEM CAI, VJ11 Turbo @ 20psi, 2.5" IC Pipes,
Corksport IC, CFDF Clutch, 2.5" Turboback, Konis,
Suspension Tech Springs, 22mm Rear Sway, + More.
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Old 10-03-2006, 06:14 AM   #10
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Sure, you can do either block ,Eagle/crower billet rods , forged pistons and still get to 350HP

No you dont have to do a standalone to do a return fuel system stock ECU has no issues dealing with a return fuel system

Tom
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