well im about to order the parts for this including the water pump. anyone willing to help me out on this? would like to get this done soon, since im at 101k and records dont show the previous owner ever did it. after this is done i can start modding it a bit and actually enjoy it since im driving it so slow and careful since i got it. Haven't really enjoyed it yet
i work every day from 3pm-1230am. wednesdays & thursdays are my days off.
but if its in the evening, i can maybe try and come help too...
helped out when it was done on my car, so i know the basics, but prolly forgot some of the steps...
I live in tomball but work in hobby. I can drive anywhere in town and meet up. If it has to be on a sunday (best for some of you) i can prob give my day away and someone will cover.
Problem of where i live its not my house and its one of those neighborhoods you cant even wash your car on the street because its against the rules
I have everything taht is needed at my house... Except the air compressor. I have the air tools but no compressor. If you want to get together (all of Focalized are welcome at my house) we can make a Focus block party out of it. Pm me and I can give you my adress and Phone #. I am also off most Thursdays but not for the rest of this month.
ok man lets do this, ill bring beer, food and my car of course. lets set up a date. if its a least one week in advance i can request it off. si it can be a sunday or something
2004 Ford Focus L4-2.0L DOHC VIN 5
Vehicle Level Engine, Cooling and Exhaust Engine Timing Belt Service and Repair
Service and Repair
NOTE: Ford does not provide camshaft gear timing marks, or information to perform timing belt service without the special tools shown in this procedure.
Removal
CAUTION: Since the engine is not free-wheeling, timing procedures must be followed exactly or piston and valve damage can occur.
CAUTION: The camshaft must be held stationary with an open-ended wrench or a suitable pair of locking pliers. Do not use the alignment tool to hold the camshaft in position or damage to the camshaft may occur.
General Instructions.
The positions of the engine mounting and the engine roll restrictor are described looking from the transmission toward the engine.
If necessary, use special tool 412-108 to remove coolant and ventilation hoses.
Due to special model variants, some steps do not apply to all vehicles. These are clearly marked in the text.
If necessary, cut the cable ties and install new cable ties on installation.
Remove the battery cover.
CAUTION: Disconnect the battery ground cable.
Raise and support the vehicle.
Detach the drive belt cover.
Loosen the coolant pump pulley retaining bolts.
Remove the accessory drive belt.
Rotate the accessory drive belt tensioner clockwise.
Remove the accessory drive belt.
Remove the crankshaft pulley.
Remove the coolant pump pulley.
CAUTION: The removal of the lower part of the engine front cover is necessary to avoid damage to the timing belt.
Detach the timing belt lower cover.
Lower the vehicle.
Detach the coolant expansion tank and position it to one side.
Detach the power steering fluid reservoir and position it to one side.
CAUTION: Insert a suitable wooden block between the oil pan and the trolley jack.
Position the trolley jack with the wooden block under the oil pan and raise the engine so that the engine front mount is free from load.
NOTE: Mark the position of the engine front mount.
Remove the engine front mount.
Remove the accessory drive belt idler pulley.
Detach the timing belt upper cover. Leave the timing belt cover in its installed position.
Remove the engine front mount bracket.
Remove the timing belt upper cover.
Remove the ignition coil pack cover.
Detach the retaining clips.
Detach the coolant pipe from the retaining clip.
Remove the engine upper cover.
Disconnect the variable cam timing (VCT) valve electrical connector.
CAUTION: Do not pull the cable when removing the spark plug connectors. If necessary, remove the ignition cables from the ignition coil to avoid kinking the cables. Turn the spark plug connectors slightly before removing to loosen the seal.
CAUTION: Pull off the spark plug connectors in line with the spark plugs.
NOTE: Loosening sequence: from the outside to the inside, working diagonally.
Remove the valve cover.
Disconnect the spark plug connectors.
Detach the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) hose.
Fully loosen 10 bolts.
Remove the spark plugs.
NOTE : At TDC the crankshaft keyway is in the 12 o'clock position. Turn the engine to 60 °BTDC on cylinder number 1.
NOTE : Use an open-ended wrench to prevent the camshaft from rotating. Remove the intake camshaft pulley blanking plug.
NOTE : Use an open-ended wrench to prevent the camshaft from rotating. Loosen the camshaft pulley retaining bolts.
Detension the timing belt (timing belt shown removed for clarity).
Loosen the bolt four turns.
Position the tensioner so that the locating tab is at approximately the 4 o'clock position.
Line up the hexagonal key slot in the tensioner adjusting washer with the pointer that is located behind the pulley.
Remove the timing belt.
Installation
CAUTION: Since the engine is not free-wheeling, timing procedures must be followed exactly or piston and valve damage can occur.
CAUTION: The camshaft must be held stationary with an open-ended wrench or a suitable pair of locking pliers. Do not use the alignment tool to hold the camshaft in position or damage to the camshaft may occur.
NOTE: Do not tighten the bolts. The camshaft timing pulleys must be able to turn freely on the camshafts.
Turn the camshafts to the ignition position on cylinder No. 1 and insert the special tool into the camshafts.
Remove the blanking plug, install the special tool.
NOTE : At TDC the crankshaft keyway is in the 12 o'clock position. NOTE : Rotate the crankshaft clockwise.
NOTE : Make sure that the crankshaft contacts the timing peg.
Rotate the crankshaft to TDC on cylinder No. 1.
CAUTION: Do not kink the timing belt (do not bend the timing belt less than a diameter of 35 mm) .
CAUTION: Do not rotate the crankshaft, check that it is still resting against the timing pin .
NOTE: The lug of the belt tensioner must not be hooked into the sheet metal cover during timing belt installation.
Install a new timing belt.
Starting from the crankshaft timing belt pulley and working counterclockwise install the timing belt, keeping it under tension.
CAUTION: Incorrect timing belt tension will result in incorrect valve timing .
Pretension the timing belt.
Rotate the tensioner locating tab counterclockwise and insert the locating tab into the slot in the rear timing cover.
Position the hexagonal key slot in the tensioner adjusting washer to the 4 o'clock position.
Tighten the attaching bolt enough to seat the tensioner firmly against the rear timing cover, but still allow the tensioner adjusting washer to be rotated using a 6 mm hexagonal key.
CAUTION: Tension the timing belt, working counterclockwise.
Using the hexagonal key, rotate the adjusting washer counterclockwise until the notch in the pointer is centered over the index line on the locating tab (the pointer will move clockwise during adjustment).
Tighten the bolt, while holding the adjusting washer in position.
NOTE: Use an open ended wrench to prevent the camshaft from rotating.
Tighten the camshaft pulley retaining bolts.
Remove the special tool.
10 Remove the special tool 303-465 from the camshafts.
NOTE: Turn the crankshaft two revolutions in the normal direction of rotation.
Check the valve timing by inserting the special tool. Correct it if necessary.
Install the special tool and make sure that the it is contact with the crankshaft.
Install the special tool into the camshafts; if necessary loosen the timing pulleys and correct the camshaft alignment.
Remove the special tools.
NOTE: Use an open ended wrench to prevent the camshaft from rotating.
Install the intake camshaft pulley blanking plug.
Install the blanking plug.
Install the spark plugs.
CAUTION: Use a blunt object (a plastic cable tie) to apply the silicone grease, to avoid damaging the spark plug connectors.
CAUTION: Push on the spark plug connectors, keeping them in line with the spark plugs.
NOTE: Coat the inside of the spark plug connectors with silicone grease to a depth of 5-10 mm.
Install the valve cover.
Tighten the bolts in two stages.
Stage 1:2 Nm .
Stage 2: 7 Nm .
Attach the PCV hose to the valve cover.
Connect the VCT actuator electrical connector.
Coat the spark plug thread with anti-seize grease, screw in the spark plugs and push in the spark plug connector until it engages.
Connect the VCT valve electrical connector.
Install the engine upper cover.
Install the ignition coil pack cover.
Attach the retaining clips.
Attach the coolant pipe to the retaining clip.
NOTE: Position the upper timing belt cover and the center timing belt.
Install the engine front mount bracket.
NOTE: Check the seating of the timing belt upper cover gasket and correct as necessary.
Attach the timing belt upper cover.
Install the accessory drive belt idler.
Install the engine front mount.
Attach the power steering pump fluid reservoir.
Attach the coolant expansion tank.
Remove the hydraulic Jack and wooden block.
Raise and support the vehicle.
Attach the lower timing belt cover.
NOTE: Do not tighten the bolts at this stage.
Install the coolant pump pulley retaining bolts.
Install the crankshaft pulley.
NOTE: Direction of travel on a used drive belt.
Install the drive belt.
Rotate the accessory drive belt tensioner clockwise.
Install the accessory drive belt.
Tighten the bolts on the coolant pump pulley.
Attach the drive belt cover.
Lower the vehicle.
Connect the battery.
NOTE: When the battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the vehicle relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven 16 km (10 miles) or more to relearn the strategy.
Standard finishing operations:
Connect the battery negative cable.
Install the battery cover.
Check fluid levels and correct if necessary.
Check the routing of vacuum hoses and cables and secure them with cable ties.
I can help if I have time but, I'm in desperate need to do the t-belt in my wife's van first. Next day I have time I will try to do the van's. We could do both at the same time with help from others. Focus t-belt take 2-3 hrs if that. Honda Oddy's takes 9 hrs to do, or at least that's what I've heard.
Spraypaint you have/work at a shop right? Whats the biggest impact you have there rated for? I need like a anvil impact to break the crank pulley bolt loose on the honda. It's only supposed to be like 180 ft lbs but it's on there with 1000 ft lbs. You can google and you tube honda crank pulley bolt and you'll see lots of stuff pop up. I've tried 3 times already last time with a 4-5 foot breaker bar and all of my weight on it. I still have yet to try the Jesus bar I borrowed from Matt. Just waiting on some time. I may try it sunday.
Sunday's I'm always off. My schedule for next week has me working tuesday night through thursday night. Or we could do it when you get off of work one night since I do work at night and I'm awake all night. Heck we could even pull it into the garage since I made room for the SVT now so we won't be out in the cold.
I am a General Manager of Louetta Automotive on Cypresswood. I am not sure wht my tech's impact is rated at but I have never had him tell me that something is too tight.
I can help if I have time but, I'm in desperate need to do the t-belt in my wife's van first. Next day I have time I will try to do the van's. We could do both at the same time with help from others. Focus t-belt take 2-3 hrs if that. Honda Oddy's takes 9 hrs to do, or at least that's what I've heard.
Spraypaint you have/work at a shop right? Whats the biggest impact you have there rated for? I need like a anvil impact to break the crank pulley bolt loose on the honda. It's only supposed to be like 180 ft lbs but it's on there with 1000 ft lbs. You can google and you tube honda crank pulley bolt and you'll see lots of stuff pop up. I've tried 3 times already last time with a 4-5 foot breaker bar and all of my weight on it. I still have yet to try the Jesus bar I borrowed from Matt. Just waiting on some time. I may try it sunday.
Sunday's I'm always off. My schedule for next week has me working tuesday night through thursday night. Or we could do it when you get off of work one night since I do work at night and I'm awake all night. Heck we could even pull it into the garage since I made room for the SVT now so we won't be out in the cold.
Find out out much. Shouldn't be too much there is nothing in the way to get to it except the tire. I took the cover off a long time ago to get to it. Oh wait it fell off lol.
ZX3ss, have you replaced the belt yet? I was thinking maybe the first week of January if you have not done so. We could make it a Focalized meet at my house.
i have not sir. 1st week of jan sounds perfect... i find my self driving faster and faster every day, i need this done soon. ill order the parts soon then [thumb]
I would go the O'reilly route. They have to service shops and people. They most likely have a belt kit in stock and one that has not been sittinh in a poorly ventalated wharehouse for months.
Let me know what Thursday or Sunday is good for you to get started. It should only take about 2-3 hours of work.
Just got back from oreillys, its $202 for the kit, $50 for just the belt alone. Now do i really need kit A? With the 2 pulleys and 1 tensioner? $202 is not that same price as ebay
You don't need one of those pulleys in the kit. You just need the Idler and Tensioner.
I remember when I bought the kit, I had one of the pulleys left over.
Because the Timing belt goes over your 2 cams, one idler, one tensioner and down to the Crank Pulley. That second one is extra.
Well, new products are never the same price as eBay sellers. But it's piece of mind and direct contact with someone if something were to go wrong or need an exchange.
-Ray-
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