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Rear Motor Mount

104K views 527 replies 91 participants last post by  20FocusDriver16 
#1 ·
I've been following a couple threads here and there that have been discussing rmm's in depth. I've been doing my own research as well. I don't know a whole lot about it but it seems to me that they all claim to do the same thing as the next. I'm looking for one that will stiffen things up with out rattling my teeth out. What reccomendations would you (FF members) suggest?
 
#280 ·
Mandatory/necessary-No. Recommended-in my opinion-yes. Many cars have had zero problems, and there is no real 'need' to replace parts that haven't failed. For the cost of new bearings I would, simply to reduce the possibility of the bearings failing further down the line.
 
#281 ·
Is that TSB for 2012's only? Does the vehicle have to "exhibit" the strut chatter in order to be qualified for the TSB?
 
#289 ·
Got my eFocus RMM installed last night, but haven't had too much of a chance to drive her.

It did, however, sharply improve the feeling of connectedness with the road, as well as feeling a tad bit more power going to the wheels. Not tremendous or anything, but felt.

It definitely feels more solid.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 4.
 
#290 ·
Put the E-Focus RMM in yesterday, and it might totally be a placebo effect, but my car seems to pull harder and with less lag (DCT here). And no increase in NVH at all. So I'm pretty happy with the results, even if it just in my head [cheers]

Also, didn't see any pics of the stock RMM in this thread, so here what it looks like compared to the E-Focus one (one the right). It's obvious why the E-Focus RMM is stiffer.

 
#293 ·
Sorry if this has already been answered, I don't have the time to read all 30 pages but does anyone have the part # for the electric focus RMM? went to ford today and asked for the price on one and they could not find it. Said that there was not a RMM listed for the electric motor? Do you use a mount from a different location on the electric motor?
 
#297 ·
It's officially listed as HOUSING in the parts catalog, not rear motor mount, so you need to order by the part number provided in the post under your question. You can't find it by looking up the name.

To make things even more muddy, it's called "roll restrictor" in the TSB. Clear as mud, huh?

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 4.
 
#305 ·
"I've never quite understood why people want brightly-colored, anodized/powdercoated laser-etched bling hidden where it can't even be seen. All it does is add unnecessary expense to a functional part."

I guess it's sorta like wearing Abercrombie & Fitch underwear, when Fruit Of The Loom would suffice?
 
#307 ·
I guess it's sorta like wearing Abercrombie & Fitch underwear, when Fruit Of The Loom would suffice?
Yeah, just like that! ;)

I guess it makes the unseen parts feel more sexy.
 
#309 ·
Got a call from my dealer that my E mount came in today which couldn't be any more perfectly timed seeing as on the rainy drive home, the motor and firewall were introduced several times under my impatient acceleration. Cant wait to put the thing on tomorrow and see what the difference is.
 
#310 ·
Put in the E mount this morning, fairly easy install. didn't notice the 20% power increase people were talking about, but I didn't really expect it either. Maybe because I have the DCT idk. I did try to launch a few times and experienced no wheel hop. The real test will be driving in the rain again. Id recommend the swap just to never hear the motor hit the firewall again.
 
#311 ·
Are people really reporting a 20% power increase on the rmm?!?! [???:)]
 
#324 ·
after reading the last couple pages i've been paranoid when downshifting or double-downshifting to pass someone... I can feel something heavy moving but since i'm a noob I still don't really know if/when knock is happening. If I floor it off the line I get sucked back into the seat a bit lol
 
#331 ·
So after the past few weeks of reading all the forum posts on the RMM viability and supposed improvements that members have seen with it, I decided to finally bite the bullet and see if I could get one installed for myself. As part of my 48k free oil change/maintenance I went in to the dealership to see if they would be willing to change it for me as they'd be down there doing an oil change anyway.
Mechanic was asking for the full labor rate of $125 for a 10 minute job. Man that blows. So I decided, what the hell might as well learn to do this myself.
I've never been underneath a car, but I'm quite handy with tools and common sense (tool in itself).

Got myself 2 jacks, 2 stands, 4 wheel chokes a torque wrench and T30 driver.

First thing I did was f'k up part of the plastic underneath/beside the driver mount point. Stupid Michelin hydraulic jack slipped off the mount point and cracked the plastic side fender. Thankfully its not visible from any angle except from looking from below. On try #2 used a piece of wood to offset the jack point inwards onto the chassis for both driver and passenger.

I followed the steps shown in this thread (http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=319739 , Thanks ShoOff for the excellent write up) to get to the RMM. The one thing I noticed is that for some reason all my bolts were 15mm! Although the head size has no bearing on the diameter of the bolt thread itself, it's still damn weird, I hope they haven't made this kind of mistakes else where. I also found one of my Christmas-Tree Clips which I lost in the bowels of the car while doing the snorkel delete a few weeks back, Score!

All in all an easy 1.5 hour job, 50 minutes of that getting the car up onto and off the jack stands. I must say though not having a car lift makes it that much harder to screw off the bolts and torque with 55 lb-ft of force after, as you have maybe 1.5 feet of clearance at most to work with on your back under the car.

After getting everything cleaned up took the car out for a test.

Immediately I knew that this was the best decision to I've made in modding the car.

No more hesitation of the line, no more shudder, no more rubber band feel when coming to a stop and taking off as soon as you stop. No more "clunk" noise when pressing the peddle down hard. Basically its all gone!
Best of all no noticeable vibrations at all.

I love it!

I'll give it a few weeks to break in and I'll update on it, but in so far as of driving it for the past 2 hours, it feels like a new car. This is considering mine is a 2012 Job 1 bought way back in August of 2011.

Thanks to all the members who have posted their info/write ups and opinions! Without your posts I may never have worked up the will to do this!

Rock On!

Edit: Btw this is the mount I ended up using. http://focus.c-f-m.com/cfm-performa...ount-for-2012-13-focus-and-2013-focus-st.aspx
It looks very similar to the E-Focus RMM me thinks.
 
#332 ·
#333 ·
Ah okay. Yeah I'm in Toronto, Canada. When I talked to Tousley as well as a couple of Ford dealership parts departments to acquire the E-Focus RMM it was coming out to a slightly higher price than what I paid for it as the shipping costs were higher through them. So I paid about $90 after shipping. $100 shipping for RMM through Ford and/or Ford dealerships. Also when I bought it, it was on "sale" for $49.99. Thanks for the clarification Suss6052.
 
#336 ·
With shipping from the U.S. to Canada that may be the case.

In that case it seems like you got a fair enough deal as long as you are happy with it, but the part is available from around $44 + shipping, so it's not that much more expensive for the part itself from CFM but it was still marked up as they are in business to make money and are not a charity.

CFM was cagey about where the part was coming from at first just saying that it was a Ford O.E. part, but reverse engineering from the part description lead back to the electric focus rmm CM5Z-6068-A.
 
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