Focus Fanatics Forum banner

Simplified Lunchbox Removal Instructions

99K views 149 replies 77 participants last post by  Mitchellvail 
#1 ·
Simplified Lunchbox Delete (2008 Focus Sedan)

The “Lunchbox” in this case is the resonator at the end of the exhaust system closest to the exhaust tip.

Here's a good link to "How the Exhaust Works", including the resonator.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/muffler.htm

I would like to credit the original thread that I received this idea from written by Jamussport of FF. That thread can be found here:

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=161083

My instructions retain the original exhaust tip (thank you Derek Zoolander of FF for this revision), if you would like to replace your existing exhaust tip while you make this modification refer to the thread above.

Removing the rear resonator will give your exhaust a new, louder tone. Don’t expect NASCAR sound out of this, we’re talking about a Focus here after all.

Here’s a sound clip of mine after removing the resonator. However, I do have a Steeda SRI installed which by itself already adds to the sound from the stock exhaust. I tried to get a sound clip while driving, but with my recorder the wind and road noise washed out the exhaust on the recording no matter where I placed the microphone. And, I swear, I wasted a ¼ tank of gas trying to get that recording!

http://s286.photobucket.com/albums/...us SE/?action=view&current=LunchboxDelete.flv

Cost:
Approximately $17 plus tax

Time to Complete:
45 minutes to 1 hour

This time will vary greatly depending on what tools you have available to cut the exhaust with. See “Tools Required” below.

Material Required:

18” (51mm) of Flexible Exhaust Pipe - 2” inside diameter
$5.99 AutoZone part #17033 – "Flexible Exhaust Repair Kit" is an 18” piece of 2” I.D. flex pipe which includes (1) 2” Exhaust Clamp.

(1) 2” Exhaust Clamp
$2.49 AutoZone part #17124

(1) Exhaust Joint and Crack Seal
$2.99 AutoZone part #00160 (or exhaust seal/cement or your choice)

(1) spray can of Hi-Temp Paint
$5.49 AutoZone part #DE1634 Low Gloss Black Engine Enamel (use any hi-temp paint/color you want)

Tools Required:

Reciprocating Saw with metal cutting blade / hacksaw can be used (see note below)

3/8” and/or 1/2" socket or box end wrench (to fit exhaust clamp nuts)

Sandpaper (pick a grit between 120 or lower, you’re just scuffing the pipe a little with it)

Manual or Hydraulic jack

Jack stand(s)

Wheel blocks

Note: A reciprocating saw (Sawzall) makes this job a snap. If you do not own one, buy one or borrow one from a neighbor. This job can be done with a hacksaw however Jamussport (see link above) required 2 ½ hours just to remove the resonator using a hacksaw. Now that man was determined!

HarborFreight.com has a reciprocating saw available for $39.99, not the highest quality tools you can find but perfectly acceptable for occasional jobs.

Instructions:

Locate vehicle on a solid level surface

Make sure it’s in PARK or 1st gear

Make sure the PARKING BRAKE is set and set good

Block front wheels

Now go back and make sure it’s in PARK or 1st and the PARKING BRAKE is set.

SAFETY FIRST: Allows use jacks stands when you are working under a vehicle. Please DO NOT skimp on this, many a weekend warrior has died when the car slipped off the jack.

Raise left rear to provide access to resonator (position jack correctly on vehicle to avoid damage)

Set Jack Stand(s) in place

Note: Service ramps are a great time saver and I believe them to be much safer than using an individual manual or hydraulic jack. For $39.99 you can purchase a pair of 8000lb Rhino ramps at AutoZone. SAFETY FIRST: Use Jack stands even with service ramps, look under my exhaust tip, you can see one there and there is another one on the other side out of view.




Remove Resonator

The resonator is the lunchbox looking thing welded to your exhaust tip (sorry no picture of it in place, but see removed resonator picture below).

Remove it!

Here’s a picture of mine after it was removed. The cuts I made worked out great for installing the flex pipe. You can adjust these cuts to suite your preference. Just remember “measure twice, cut once”.





Install Flex Pipe

Clean the outside of existing pipe where the flex pipe will overlap it, about 2 inches should do. Also scuff this area with sandpaper to allow for better adhesion of exhaust seal.

I wore rubber gloves for the next part, do not get this stuff all over your hands. It is labeled "WARNING! Eye, skin and respiratory irritant".

Apply a liberal amount of exhaust seal to the outside of existing pipe (the area you just cleaned) and to the inside of the flex pipe before you slip the flex pipe on.

Slide flex pipe on, bending to position tip correctly. (fine tuning of tip position done later)

Now apply a liberal amount of exhaust seal over the end of the flex pipe and existing pipe; fill any gaps between the two. Use enough seal so you don’t even see the joint, basically blend the flex pipe into the existing pipe with the exhaust seal.

Install exhaust clamps (one on each end) and tighten. Position the ends of the clamp up toward the bottom of vehicle so you don’t see them sticking down when viewing the vehicle from the rear.

Check the exhaust seal after tightening clamps, add more if required.

Take a look at your exhaust tip (from behind the car), is it straight and centered? Adjust flex pipe until it is.

Except for painting you are done and you want to wait until after the exhaust seal is dry enough before you paint it. You could of course paint the flex pipe prior to installation, but I was not that smart. [duh] If you do paint prior to installing it you will still need to touch it up as areas that were not exposed on the flex pipe when you painted it will be now.

You can leave the car in position and wait, or carefully lower the vehicle and drive it. The heat from the exhaust will help set the exhaust seal. I painted mine after driving for about 10 minutes.

Yes, you do want to paint the flex pipe. Flex pipe is notorious for rusting quickly; the paint will help delay that process (a little). If this is a permanent addition you might do well by finding an exhaust shop that will bend and weld an actual piece of exhaust pipe in place at a reasonable price.

Also, if you move the flex pipe (or it moves on its own) after it’s painted it will expose unpainted areas. Watch for those and hit them with a spray of paint.

Below are pictures of my completed installation (including paint over spray on heat shield, oh well).







You better appreciate the shine on the tip. Took some time with bug and tar remover and steel wool followed by a waxing to get it looking good again all just for that picture.

Well that’s it; I hope you find these instructions helpful. If I can clarify, correct or just answer a question please don’t hesitate to PM me.
 
See less See more
5
  • Like
Reactions: Algorhythm
#89 ·
I wish i could have the same sound but with a better exhaust setup.

Like a better header, cat, 2-1/2" pipe better muffler all the way back to a nice tip.

The sound IMO is pefect. Not to loud and not rice sounding at all. But i know it could flow better with a better setup/larger pipe
 
#91 ·
My two cents. Should have nothing to do with warranty or emissions.

Warranty states if a mod causes a problem it's not covered - hard to imagine what they cld claim this mod broke - never know though.

This is the resonator, not the CAT, no effect on emissions.

But that's just my opinion. We've had lots of discussions regarding both topics on here and I will say that is the general consensus. A lot cld depend on the attitude of the dealer or mood of the emissions inspector, always bring them chocolate!
 
#92 ·
Ah thank you, finally an answer! Greatly appreciated buddy, I think I'll take her to one of the local muffler shops next weekend. As long as no one has had any lights come on due to removing this, that was my main concern. My service manager had said something about back pressure causing the light to come one, but if no one has had that issue I guess I'm in the clear.

With the warranty, I suppose if there was an issue with the exhaust system it would no longer be covered due to the modification, but this is the only "performance' mod I plan to perform anyway, aside from possible a CAI, so I don't think I should have to worry about any issues with my exhaust.

I noticed the exhaust has a slight burble at idle if you listen by the pipe. I can't wait to see hear it without the resonator.
 
#94 ·
When i took mine in they cut the resonator out and put in a pipe they cut and bent. I thought about keeping my old resonator but decided i would never use it so i left it there.

If you have any concerns takle the resonator with you. That way if you have any problems down the road just pay some one to have it put back on. I cant imagine it costing any more to put it back on then it did to remove it.

Some one should keep a log on the sound though. I think with it removed it can slowly get louder. The stock setup will get louder too but not as much as with it removed.
 
#96 ·
The part you are removing is the resonator. You need to make sure you get the parts correct. There was another member who dropped his car off and told them to remove the muffler and they removed the wrong part.

The "lunchbox" you can see from under the rear bumper this is actualy called the "resonator" a muffler shop considers this part the resonator. The muffler is actualy up under the middle of the car. Its long a tube shaped. WHat you want to remove is more square looking.

Make sure you get the parts right if you are having some one else do the work or they will remove the wrong parts.

If you ask me, the resonator is more restrictive then the muffler. So if you do anything just remove the resonator.

If your asking about just removing the resonator and not hooking the rest back up? I wouldnt, i would atleast add an extension so the exhaust dumps out the back. Fumes can come up into the back hatch if its open and running. I also dont think you want the exhaust charing the underside of the back of your car.
 
#99 ·
when he started this, these all were brand new and every car was different. plus i know a lot of ppl were looking at this for the 08's... mine didn't come with the lunchbox...
 
#111 ·
Does anyone have a decent quality recording of what it sounds like without the lunchbox?

I'm assuming this is how some 09 SES manuals were sold with 143 horsepower rather than 140.

The resonator is designed for sound suppression, but it is still a restriction in the exhaust system. Removing this will increase airflow and we all know what that means..
 
#114 ·
This thread is still alive !!! I'll have to celebrate it's birthday this year. [burnout]
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top