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Simplified Lunchbox Removal Instructions

99K views 149 replies 77 participants last post by  Mitchellvail 
#1 ·
Simplified Lunchbox Delete (2008 Focus Sedan)

The “Lunchbox” in this case is the resonator at the end of the exhaust system closest to the exhaust tip.

Here's a good link to "How the Exhaust Works", including the resonator.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/muffler.htm

I would like to credit the original thread that I received this idea from written by Jamussport of FF. That thread can be found here:

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=161083

My instructions retain the original exhaust tip (thank you Derek Zoolander of FF for this revision), if you would like to replace your existing exhaust tip while you make this modification refer to the thread above.

Removing the rear resonator will give your exhaust a new, louder tone. Don’t expect NASCAR sound out of this, we’re talking about a Focus here after all.

Here’s a sound clip of mine after removing the resonator. However, I do have a Steeda SRI installed which by itself already adds to the sound from the stock exhaust. I tried to get a sound clip while driving, but with my recorder the wind and road noise washed out the exhaust on the recording no matter where I placed the microphone. And, I swear, I wasted a ¼ tank of gas trying to get that recording!

http://s286.photobucket.com/albums/...us SE/?action=view&current=LunchboxDelete.flv

Cost:
Approximately $17 plus tax

Time to Complete:
45 minutes to 1 hour

This time will vary greatly depending on what tools you have available to cut the exhaust with. See “Tools Required” below.

Material Required:

18” (51mm) of Flexible Exhaust Pipe - 2” inside diameter
$5.99 AutoZone part #17033 – "Flexible Exhaust Repair Kit" is an 18” piece of 2” I.D. flex pipe which includes (1) 2” Exhaust Clamp.

(1) 2” Exhaust Clamp
$2.49 AutoZone part #17124

(1) Exhaust Joint and Crack Seal
$2.99 AutoZone part #00160 (or exhaust seal/cement or your choice)

(1) spray can of Hi-Temp Paint
$5.49 AutoZone part #DE1634 Low Gloss Black Engine Enamel (use any hi-temp paint/color you want)

Tools Required:

Reciprocating Saw with metal cutting blade / hacksaw can be used (see note below)

3/8” and/or 1/2" socket or box end wrench (to fit exhaust clamp nuts)

Sandpaper (pick a grit between 120 or lower, you’re just scuffing the pipe a little with it)

Manual or Hydraulic jack

Jack stand(s)

Wheel blocks

Note: A reciprocating saw (Sawzall) makes this job a snap. If you do not own one, buy one or borrow one from a neighbor. This job can be done with a hacksaw however Jamussport (see link above) required 2 ½ hours just to remove the resonator using a hacksaw. Now that man was determined!

HarborFreight.com has a reciprocating saw available for $39.99, not the highest quality tools you can find but perfectly acceptable for occasional jobs.

Instructions:

Locate vehicle on a solid level surface

Make sure it’s in PARK or 1st gear

Make sure the PARKING BRAKE is set and set good

Block front wheels

Now go back and make sure it’s in PARK or 1st and the PARKING BRAKE is set.

SAFETY FIRST: Allows use jacks stands when you are working under a vehicle. Please DO NOT skimp on this, many a weekend warrior has died when the car slipped off the jack.

Raise left rear to provide access to resonator (position jack correctly on vehicle to avoid damage)

Set Jack Stand(s) in place

Note: Service ramps are a great time saver and I believe them to be much safer than using an individual manual or hydraulic jack. For $39.99 you can purchase a pair of 8000lb Rhino ramps at AutoZone. SAFETY FIRST: Use Jack stands even with service ramps, look under my exhaust tip, you can see one there and there is another one on the other side out of view.




Remove Resonator

The resonator is the lunchbox looking thing welded to your exhaust tip (sorry no picture of it in place, but see removed resonator picture below).

Remove it!

Here’s a picture of mine after it was removed. The cuts I made worked out great for installing the flex pipe. You can adjust these cuts to suite your preference. Just remember “measure twice, cut once”.





Install Flex Pipe

Clean the outside of existing pipe where the flex pipe will overlap it, about 2 inches should do. Also scuff this area with sandpaper to allow for better adhesion of exhaust seal.

I wore rubber gloves for the next part, do not get this stuff all over your hands. It is labeled "WARNING! Eye, skin and respiratory irritant".

Apply a liberal amount of exhaust seal to the outside of existing pipe (the area you just cleaned) and to the inside of the flex pipe before you slip the flex pipe on.

Slide flex pipe on, bending to position tip correctly. (fine tuning of tip position done later)

Now apply a liberal amount of exhaust seal over the end of the flex pipe and existing pipe; fill any gaps between the two. Use enough seal so you don’t even see the joint, basically blend the flex pipe into the existing pipe with the exhaust seal.

Install exhaust clamps (one on each end) and tighten. Position the ends of the clamp up toward the bottom of vehicle so you don’t see them sticking down when viewing the vehicle from the rear.

Check the exhaust seal after tightening clamps, add more if required.

Take a look at your exhaust tip (from behind the car), is it straight and centered? Adjust flex pipe until it is.

Except for painting you are done and you want to wait until after the exhaust seal is dry enough before you paint it. You could of course paint the flex pipe prior to installation, but I was not that smart. [duh] If you do paint prior to installing it you will still need to touch it up as areas that were not exposed on the flex pipe when you painted it will be now.

You can leave the car in position and wait, or carefully lower the vehicle and drive it. The heat from the exhaust will help set the exhaust seal. I painted mine after driving for about 10 minutes.

Yes, you do want to paint the flex pipe. Flex pipe is notorious for rusting quickly; the paint will help delay that process (a little). If this is a permanent addition you might do well by finding an exhaust shop that will bend and weld an actual piece of exhaust pipe in place at a reasonable price.

Also, if you move the flex pipe (or it moves on its own) after it’s painted it will expose unpainted areas. Watch for those and hit them with a spray of paint.

Below are pictures of my completed installation (including paint over spray on heat shield, oh well).







You better appreciate the shine on the tip. Took some time with bug and tar remover and steel wool followed by a waxing to get it looking good again all just for that picture.

Well that’s it; I hope you find these instructions helpful. If I can clarify, correct or just answer a question please don’t hesitate to PM me.
 
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#60 ·
I had mine removed on my '08. They cut the pipe just rear of where it goes over the rear axle, bent a 2" OD aluminized steel pipe to fit, and cut off and welded on the original SS tip. They said that if I ever wanted it back on, all they would have to do is weld it back on or, weld a piece of 2" ID pipe onto the cut end, slip it on, and clamp it. $50.
 
#61 ·
anyone cut it a little furthar back and put in a glasspack to make a little deeper tone?? im thinking about doing that but i just thought id see if anyone else has
 
#75 ·
I got referred to this thread from a fellow member, since I just removed the lunchbox as well. They charged me $40 for the job and they cut off the resonator right at the edge of the rear pipe. They bent a new piece of pipe and made it fit just about perfect. I love the sound, but I'm still saving up for a magnaflow upgrade.
 
#77 ·
Another method a guy did is instead of having the temporary piping, he just put a turn down directly behind the front cut where the lunchbox was. If you dont particularly care about a tip showing on the back its a decent idea IMO. Not sure on the length of the turndown or if it had to be a certain length to avoid anything...
 
#79 ·
Great Post. Especially if you are on a budget. Some Muffler shops think customers are idiots and try to rip us off. I had a buddy pay $250 for the whole exhaust with their performance muffler. When I was helping him swap out his rear SB. They cut the resonator and added piping and also put what looked like a cheap a_s flowmaster and the welding looked really crappy. They left most of the factory piping. Cheap Job and expensive price.
 
#80 ·
I did the same thing and it was well worth it! i just went to a muffler shop and had them cut off the lunchbox and weld on a pipe with a stainless steel tip. I got pics on my profile for your viewing pleasures.
 
#82 ·
My mom has a honda civic hybrid and i dont know what muffler those cars have but it has the deepest sound ive ever heard from a car muffler. Its quiet but if you dont have the ear for a deep rumble you probobly wont even notice it. Its really cool though. No one else in my family can hear it though
 
#83 ·
I had mine done on monday and ive been driving it around the past few days, i like it.

It is a very mild sound change, its very cool.

IMO it should actualy help a little with back flow pressure. Before using the lunchbox thing the flow was a little restrictive. It looks more straight through now.

They only charged me $40. and welded on a new S pipe, the cut the box off just before the box then welded a whole new section from that first cut all the way back out the back. This made one single weld. Then they painted it black around the new weld and put my chrome tip back on.

I wouldnt spend more then $50. to have this done. Even doing it at a shop its a very simple job and should be in and out quickly.
 
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