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Old 01-21-2014, 12:59 PM   #1
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How to "delete" PCV valve

First off i'll start off by saying you won't actually be deleting the PCV valve. You will simply be removing the "valve" part of it and making it an open hole, therefore making it an open breather for the crankcase.

The stock PCV valve require vacuum to be pulled on it to open the valve and ventilate the crankcase. The stock valve pulls vacuum from the intake manifold to open the valve and when doing so pulls hot oily vapor into your intake manifold. The main benefit of "deleting" this is to lower intake temps and keep oily vapor from going back into your intake. The stock PCV valve can make an oily mess of an intake manifold.

Now with that being said i'll get to the write up.


Step 1 - Remove Intake Manifold

To access the PCV valve you will need to remove your intake manifold. I've already explained how to do this in my EGR delete plate write up so i'm just going to have the link to that write up, Simply read step 1 for the explaination of how to remove the intake manifold

How to install Massive Speed EGR delete plate.




Step 2 - Remove PCV valve plate

The next thing you will need to do is remove the plate that holds the PCV valve, it is located on the block underneath the 2nd and 3rd intake ports in the photo, it has the little purple fitting. There are 8 bolts holding it to the block.






Step 3 - Remove PCV valve from Block plate

After you have the plate removed from the block you need to take the PCV valve out of the plate. There is a little black ring that retains it in the plate and you will see 2 small notches in the black ring. Use a small screwdriver and VERY carefully pry the notches away until the ring comes straight up. After you get the ring off you simply pull the valve out of the plate housing. Here is a pic of the plate off with the valve removed, you can see the little black ring near the end of the purple valve.








Step 4 - Remove Spring and plunger from PCV Valve

Once you have the valve removed from the plate its time to get the actual "valve" part of it out. There are a couple ways to do this, my pictures will show the way I did it but there are also markings I put on the valve to assist in the other option as well.

Option 1 - Cut the bottom of the valve off until the lip that holds the plunger in is removed, once it is gone the spring and plunger will fall right out. There are small black lines in my picture on the orange part of the valve, that is about how much you need to cut off the end to get the plunger to fall out.

Option 2 - Drill out the bottom of the valve until the lip is removed, I used a 3/8" drill bit and it was ALMOST perfect, I had to use a razor blade to grind off the tiny bit of the lip until the plunger fell out. Be very careful using this method since you are drilling into pretty thin plastic, you don't want the drill bit to bind up and crack the plastic. The only real benefit of doing it this way is that you aren't shortening anything other than that there is no real benefit from one method or the other.

Here are a few pics showing the valve being drilled, you can see the black lines I marked in case you want to simply cut the end off.





Here is a pic with everything removed, this is the order it will come out of the valve as well.





Step 5 - Reinstall PCV valve

After you have the spring and plunger out and have converted it to an open breather all you have to do is put the valve back into the block plate and reinstall it back onto the block. The little black snap ring that holds the valve to the block plate only goes on 1 way so make sure you line up the 2 notches.



Step 6 - Route hose to new catch can

Now that you have the valve modified the rest is mainly up to you. You will need to buy an oil catch can and figure out where you want to mount it in the engine bay. I recommend mounting it as high as possible to make it harder for oil to make it into the catch can, but once again this is mainly up to you. You will need to figure out where and how you are going to mount your new catch can and then you will need to run new hose from both the PCV on the block that you just modified and the PCV on the valve cover to your new catch can. Once you have the catch can mounted and your new hoses run to the can the PCV job is complete.



Of course after this point you need to reinstall your intake manifold and anything else you took apart for this job, once again I feel like I should mention that the car is still apart at this point and needs to be put back together. but that is all you need to do for a proper PCV "delete"


Also there are other ways to add a catch can without modifying the valve but if you don't modify your valve you HAVE to pull vacuum on the valve so you will still have to have the system hooked to your intake manifold to pull vacuum and work properly, and then the chance of getting hot oily vapor into your intake is still there. I recommend modifying the valve and disconnecting the PCV from the intake all together. But if anyone is interested in a write up on how to install a catch can without modifying the PCV valve I would be glad to do a write up, however the pics would be from a mazda speed3. My brother just added a catch can to his speed and didn't modify the PCV valve.

I know this is a more common mod but I hope this helps anyone out that might have been confused about it in any way.


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Old 03-08-2014, 12:28 PM   #2
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Awesome write up and pics. I have to do a ton of work to my 06 2.0 zx3. Valve cover, pcv valve delete, and i may end up deleting the tumble flaps while i have the manifold off. i guess that depends on how they look, damage wise. It only has 53k miles on it, so i am hoping all of this work won't be too much trouble. thanks for the link to removing the I. manifold as well. you have been most helpful!
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Old 07-20-2015, 10:04 PM   #3
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Is it possible to just add a draft tube as an alternative?
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Old 07-21-2015, 06:50 PM   #4
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You could, again best to route it high before going down as mentioned by Phestizio.

Catch can both reduces the crud dripping out & the ease of crud/critters finding their way into the engine, better than an open tube.
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Old 08-05-2015, 07:54 PM   #5
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Thank you all for your comments! I take pride in helping others it means a lot to me that you guys like them. I don't get as much time as I used to but Let me know if there are any other write ups you want. 2.3 bsd write up? Atx to mtx duratec conversion? Knock off cosi intake manifold? Rear battery? 2.5 turbo swap? Rear disc brake conversion? 5 lug conversion? All of these have already happened or will be happening in the near future haha.

Anyways I think it might be cool for people who have done a catch can to post pics of what they catch here haha. Mine has started to fill pretty quickly recently and has been really watery the past couple times. Thinking it's due to having about 220k miles and alot of blow by on the old 2.0 haha. And the ridiculous humidity. I'll take a pic next drain and post here, but I think I'll need to throw the 2.3 in her soon.
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