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How to install Massive Speed EGR delete plate.

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36K views 51 replies 17 participants last post by  amc49  
#1 ·
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So I just installed the new Massive speed EGR delete plate this past weekend and figured i'd do a write up on it in case anyone has any questions.

Its going to look a little easier in my pictures because I already have alot of other stuff off the engine because i'm doing a good bit more than just this delete plate, but i'll start at the beginning of what you need to do for the delete.

Step 1- Remove Intake Manifold
You don't HAVE to remove this but I highly recommend it, your doing this to access the EGR tube.

-First you need to disconnect your air intake from the throttle body

-Next disconnect the MAF sensor, TPS sensor, IACV, Purge Valve Vacuum Line, IMRC vacuum line and module, also disconnect the sensor in the fuel rail that has vacuum pulled on it. Pretty much disconnect everything that connected to the Intake Manifold and Throttle Body

-After you have everything disconnected remove the Intake Manifold. There are 7 bolts in total on the head, and 1 bolt underneath holding the bottom of the manifold to the block. Here is a picture of the 7 bolt pattern on the intake from the opposite side.
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-After you have everything on the manifold unbolted pull it toward the front of the car away from the head, you may have to do some prying to get it free but be gentle since it is plastic. You have to pull it far enough forward to clear the EGR tube before you can pull it up and out of the car.



Step 2 - Remove EGR tube

Now that you have the manifold out of the way you can access the EGR tube, this step is very simple, simply unscrew the EGR tube from the head. You need a 22mm wrench. Here is a picture of the EGR tube in the head and one with it removed.

EGR tube in the head
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EGR tube removed from head
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Step 3 - Remove EGR Valve

-Start by removing the Coolant return line located next to the EGR valve, it makes it alot easier to access the bolts on the valve. it is the large coolant tube to the right of the valve in the pictures below.

-Next remove the small coolant line that runs into the EGR valve. it is the small hose connected to the left side of the valve in the picture below.

-Disconnect the EGR valve from the wiring harness and unbolt the EGR valve. There are 2 bolts holding it to the head. one to the lower left and upper right. Once it is unbolted simply pull it off the head. Here are 3 pictures to help you locate everything.
Note- you will see 2 small holes to the upper right of the 2nd picture with the valve removed, the upper small hole is a coolant passage and the lower small hole is the threaded bolt hole.

EGR valve installed on head
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Head with EGR valve removed
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EGR valve removed from head
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Step 4 - Install Massive EGR delete plate

Now that you have everything removed from the head its time to start putting something back on!

-Clean off the gasket mounting surface and bolt the plate to the head using the provided new gasket and new hardware. The gasket and plate can only go on 1 way with the Massive logo facing outwards of course.

Head with EGR valve removed.
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Massive EGR plate installed
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Step 5 - Install coolant bypass

What you need to do now is quite simple but you have 2 choices. I will tell you both options but the pictures are of my preferred method. The kit comes with everything you need to do either option.

Option 1. plug off the small coolant line you disconnected from the EGR valve with the provided cap. leaving the stock T fitting.

Option 2. (preferred)Remove the stock T fitting from the coolant line and replace it with the provided straight barb. (much cleaner looking in my opinion)

Here is a picture of the stock T fitting removed right next to the coolant hose that has been replaced with the straight barb.
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-Reconnect the coolant return hose and the EGR delete is complete, simple as that. Remember to get the car tuned for the EGR delete to kick off your CEL.





Step 6 - Reinstall Intake Manifold

I'm not going to go step by step on this one since I explained how to remove it, just do that in reverse order. I just felt like I have to mention you still need to put the rest of the car back together after this point haha but the EGR delete is COMPLETE.

I hope this helps anyone confused on how to do this to their duratec. and i'll post some more pics once I finish putting everything else i'm doin on the car and its all buttoned up again.
 
#5 ·
That may be correct since I haven't put one of these on an 08+ focus, they may require the cap.

I'm sure you could probably get away with not tuning it, however i'm sure you would see a little more gains if you did. I'm sure the stock tune would at least kick on the CEL, but you might be able to just plug in the valve and leave it under the hood to get that to go off. You would have to ask tom or k-dog about it though as far as the tune i'm not 100% sure
 
#6 ·
Excellent. Hated the EGR on the Zetec, Sure i'll hate it on the Duratec. Hell hate it on all fords. I'll be doing this one but i must finish the swap and get no lights/CELs 1st before i start taking stuff unfit for drag racing out.

R
 
#10 ·
Tom, that's a good idea. But how do you keep the metal filings from getting in the head? Seems like it would be better to do with the head out of the car.

So if I were rebuilding the motor, I'd do it Tom's way. If not, Massive's product looks simple and foolproof.
 
#11 ·
Yeah thats not a bad idea, just put some kind of plug behind the holes to get shavings out and grease your tap to catch most of the shavings, not a bad idea and it would be cheaper. but the massive EGR delete is only $30 bucks and comes with the barbs for the coolant lines and looks much cleaner than 3 bolts would look. you could save $15 bucks or so tapping and plugging the holes though.

And i'll have engine bay pics soon, I'm just finishing putting the new manifold on today. I've been fighting with the power steering clearance for a couple days now.
 
#12 ·
Im interested in doing this. I have a 2.0 and want to know if it will fit, and really concerned with the pros and cons. I dont want to have to get a computer tune or anything like that. My main goal is to raise my MPG. I recently purchased a STEEDA CAI for her. But am still looking for other ways to raise the MPG, or clean up the engine bay without lowering it. Thanks guys.
 
#13 ·
That Steeda sri is a great upgrade. You'll need a tune, if your going to delete your egr, unless you want the cel on. BTW a tune will help w/ mileage. Anytime you make the engine more efficent your going to get better mileage, if you can keep your foot out of it. Add a set of mild cams & a header & you'll see more mpg. Of course it'll take a while before you get your money out of it.
 
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#15 ·
The CEL would still be there, unless you tune it to delete the EGR there is no way to get rid of it. A tune is well worth it you will see more mpg on a mildly tuned car. I was making almost 40mpg on my last tune before I added my most recent mods, I haven't seen what my new mpg is yet as i'm still tuning so its still changing
 
#18 ·
I'm using a SCT Livewire 9600, but most people just get the xcal3 also made by SCT. it seems to me the xcal3 is less glitchy than the Livewire. But its the tune that you put on the car that will increase your MPG, not the tuner itself. All the tuner does is flash new tune files to your ECU, you literally only need it plugged in for maybe 5 minutes at a time. Maybe a little longer if your datalogging. You don't want to use any pre-loaded tunes that come with alot of flash tuners. Get a custom tune.

Also lets try to keep this thread EGR related, I don't want to see my write-up get way off topic and disappear haha it took me a while to write it up as well as I did
 
#20 ·
If you are not familiar with tuning it probably isn't something your going to want to try yourself, especially on the duratec motor. Unless you want to spend alot of time learning about tuning and even take a few classes on it and then spend a small fortune on tuning software its not something you are going to want to do yourself. The best thing to do would be to do some research into it and learn more about different engine mechanics in general and really learn about your motor specifically to learn what different features and modules it might have bolted to it so that you know what all the different sensors are doing and why they are doing it and how do you change that to make it do what you want it to do.

Overall tuning can be one of the more difficult things to do with one of the larger learning curves, not to mention the high cost of the tuning software. Almost everyone just buys the xcal3 flash tuner and then pays Tom to do a custom tune for you, he is by far the cheapest custom tuner you will find anywhere. There is a thread in the Focus Tuning section that explains how Tom's tune works. You will need to be prepared to flash new tunes and datalog and repeat until he can get the best possible tune for your vehicle.

Also if you do buy a flash tuner you NEVER want to use any pre-loaded tunes that may come on the tuner.
 
#22 ·
I'm not sure if the xcal3 comes with pre-loaded tunes but I know my Livewire has pre-loaded tunes on it so i'm pretty sure the xcal does as well, but none of them come with a custom tune written to them unless you also buy it from the tuner and he puts it on there before he sends it to you.

But again you NEVER want to use a pre-loaded tune, I have plenty of pre-loaded tunes on mine but I have never once used one or even thought of using one. Pre-loaded tunes are just a generic tune file and since every engine is different there is no way a pre-loaded tune file can effectively run your engine as efficently as possible, especially once you start throwing mods on the car.

Pay the money and get a custom tune for your car with your mods. The great thing about toms tune is the fact that he gives you free tune updates as you keep adding more NA mods so you don't have to keep paying for additional tunes every time you add another mod like you would with FSWERKS.
 
#25 ·
That port is primarily for cooling the EGR valve, no valve = nothing to cool.

Blocking the passage with the valve removal prevents exh. gas flow through the head, removing a source of heat in the head for the coolant to deal with.

No extra heat from the exhaust gasses passing thru the head, no need for extra cooling there.
 
#24 ·
No there would be no benefit, you WANT to keep the coolant from running through the head to keep the coolant temps down, that's another major benefit of removing the EGR valve. By removing the EGR valve and still running the coolant through the head your almost defeating half the purpose of removing the EGR valve.

The Massive Speed EGR delete kit comes with everything you need to re-route the coolant lines.
 
#28 ·
Yes - IF you buy the car that comes with it (chuckle)

FWIW - Advertising used flashers for sale was prohibited here a while ago, for the reason that once used they are "locked" to the car they were used on.

Units that are currently supported by the manufacturer can be sent in to be "unlocked" for a fee (not cheap). Used unit + unlocking + shipping can cost more than a new unit. No longer supported = expensive scan tool. Needs repair + unlocking - might save a few dollars if it was free.

Now IIRC there were some that supposedly would work on a couple cars, but you'd have to buy it & try it to know if it would work. For all I know for this is just an urban legend, don't remember it confirmed by anyone I trust.

If I was investing in one right now, I'd want a current unit I could expect to be supported for a while. No fun if you need to go back to stock, your unit doesn't cooperate, and it's no longer supported for repair. (for one scenario)

You may find a deal on one that works for you, just wanted to throw out the warnings.
 
#31 ·
No, if your EGR is turned off in your tune already you wont notice any difference. The only real benefit of removing the valve completely is to SLIGHTLY lower coolant temps and to just remove un-needed crap from under the hood making it easier to work on because, well, less is there in your way. For the price I think its worth doing if you have your EGR turned off, its only like $30 bucks if it was like 100 bucks I would have never bought one.
 
#34 ·
I may look into getting this soon. My egr is already turned off and since I've been working on wire tucking my bay and cleaning it up less crap there would be perfect for me.
I just ordered one as well as a pcv hose. I asked for a blk one= we'll see.
 
#33 ·
I may look into getting this soon. My egr is already turned off and since I've been working on wire tucking my bay and cleaning it up less crap there would be perfect for me.