ok I have decided to abandon my dreams of a turbo... instead, im gonna part by part build one of the first 200whp NA 2.0 Duratecs.... I am wondering, with the mods below, is it possible?
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CAI (havent decided on which one)
2.5 exhaust (of MY choice, not yours... hah)
MarcyMotorsport IM (if they get em done! [rofl])
Cossie header
VF motor mounts
Xcal 2 (tuned by whoever! lol)
Cossie 67 mm TB
Stg II Crane Cams (cams, gears, springs)
lightweight flywheel/ stg 2 clutch
ported head milled for 12:1 compression (I'll have to confirm if it is possible for 12:1 due to clearance... dont wanna strike the pistons [])
forged rods/pistons and ranger crank(will be needed due to higher compression)
I think with all of this, I should be around 200whp... what do yall think? Im hoping to build a NA 8,000 rpm 200whp NA monster focus... hehe
with all that and a good tune u should be around your goal but not around the first to get there. there have been others with this same post and there are some that are already there and others that are off by like 10-20 hp
You can absolutely run 12.5:1 compression on 91 octane, safely, every day. I have several customers, and my own car running this compression ratio, safely for over a year now. The 11.6:1 cars don't quite have the pop the 12.5:1 cars have, but they too run excellent on 91 octane, and can tolerate a few degrees more timing in the tune.
The 2.3L head is not needed for a 2.0L unless it's an all out assault. The 2.0L head can easily support 200whp in stock form on a 2.0L, and much more with a small amount of targeted work.
Four years playing with the Duratec will learn you a thing or two about it.
it means cosworth.... I was just being short... well afetr talking to Turbo Tom for awhile, I have decided the NA route is gonna be way too expensive for too little power... sorry I know some of you wanted to see this happen... oh well...
I dunno, I think uou may be close, but I don't know if you would hit 200. You would need what 80+ wheel horsepower to get there? It would definately make your car quicker than what it is though, lol
Trust me I had 180whp N/A and that shit was fast ...... Im sure the FS turbo will be fast too, but there's nothing like 200 whp n/a. I would have been there by now if I still had my duratec.
I was running FS intake, Draxas header and flex, Crane stage II cams, valve springs and retainers, BS deleted, HKS hi-power exhaust, 67mm TB, SCT tuned making 180 whp. 154 wtq.
would a goal of 185hp at the wheels be do-able? thats 15hp less. and if the engine was taken out and put on a dyno itself... it would probably make 200hp... if it was getting 185hp to the wheels...
so my question is... that would it be possible 185hp to the wheels do-able N/A?
you can do what you want but dont go crazy with internals yet im sure they are gonna have a supercharger soon so you can get cams header all that stuff but wait for the supercharger thats what im hoping to do at least....
everyone I have talked to says the s/c for the duratec wont happen because it isnt practical... minimal room so the cost would be over $5000... I doubt anyone will pay for something like that when they can have the FS Stg2 for $1000 less... u can buy new internals with that []
I would say I/H/E, cams/gears/springs, tune, polyurethane mounts, TB, IM, and a little bit higher compression....that should put you close to 185whp, I think... might need a lighter flywheel and upgraded clutch for all that too...
Lighter flywheels increase your whp, but also cause you problems in daily driving. The SVT's didn't have as much of an issue with it because- from what I understand, the SVT had a larger flywheel. With the Duratec, you should understand that if you put an 8 lb flywheel on your car you will either stall on hills, or spin out every time. Also, you can expect this to be twice as bad in the rain. I would not recommend it for anyone who lives in a hilly area.
An old friend of mine who's very familiar with elmination drag racing told me about his experiences with aluminum flywheels on his race cars. It gives you a leg up at the start, but less of a push when you shift gears. Think about it, and you'll see it's simple physics: speed x weight = force. When you hit second gear would you rather have 6k x 23lbs of force, or 6k x 8 lbs of force? From what Charlie told me, it evens out on the strip.
The bummer for your daily driver is that once you've spent $400 on an aluminum flywheel, and then had it installed- if you don't like it or you can't drive it in the rain- what are you going to do?
also i might be able to add to this mix is... my friend is starting to port heads for like LS1's etc... and im starting to look for a 2.0L duratec head i can give to him and let him work slowly at it...
so far.... intake, exhaust... header... cams... springs and valves for the stage 2 cams... hopefully we'll see something about walter's IM soon...
About the Cossie manifold on a 2.0: A long time ago I wondered if perhaps welding some of those Syclone (I believe that's the name) intake swirlers in there would help to restrict a bit of flow. That's the original company that started that idea before Turbonator stole it. NOT that this makes it a quality product, or that it works like they say it does- just that for the purpose of restricting the flow a bit, it might actually do something.
The best way to make the Cossie manifold work on the D20 is just put a big freaking cam in it. Go balls to the wall, race only, high compression, and you'll be fine with the manifold as is.
I still say turbo is the best way to make power out of the Duratec. Although I would be partial to investing in a stroked D23 if such is available when I decide that I have enough money in assets to spend on my car.
WELL... we did have a big discussion on here before, and someone found info sayin that cossie was NOT gonna make a manifold just for the 2.0... but if they did... it would be ALOT better than the one they have now, b/c it'll be reworked to work better with the 2.0 rather than the 2.3....
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