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Can I hit these numbers with these mods?

  • not even close to 200 whp

    Votes: 32 25.2%
  • around 200whp

    Votes: 84 66.1%
  • a bit more than 200whp

    Votes: 11 8.7%
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200whp in a NA 2.0 Duratec...

42K views 240 replies 59 participants last post by  Lil_RedZX3 
#1 ·
ok I have decided to abandon my dreams of a turbo... instead, im gonna part by part build one of the first 200whp NA 2.0 Duratecs.... I am wondering, with the mods below, is it possible?

[read]
CAI (havent decided on which one)
2.5 exhaust (of MY choice, not yours... hah)
MarcyMotorsport IM (if they get em done! [rofl])
Cossie header
VF motor mounts
Xcal 2 (tuned by whoever! lol)
Cossie 67 mm TB
Stg II Crane Cams (cams, gears, springs)
lightweight flywheel/ stg 2 clutch
ported head milled for 12:1 compression (I'll have to confirm if it is possible for 12:1 due to clearance... dont wanna strike the pistons [;)])
forged rods/pistons and ranger crank(will be needed due to higher compression)

I think with all of this, I should be around 200whp... what do yall think? Im hoping to build a NA 8,000 rpm 200whp NA monster focus... hehe
 
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#4 ·
Who is close to 200 with a 2.0?

with 12 compression you wont be able to run on 93 octane

Your list is short about 3ooo.oo worth of parts , I would use the 2.3 head , cosi intake , 3 inch exh and ,larger exh valves and a few other things

If you can stand 12 compression and use 100 octane all the time your goal of 200 can be met with out a lot of trouble at all

Tom
 
#37 ·
You can absolutely run 12.5:1 compression on 91 octane, safely, every day. I have several customers, and my own car running this compression ratio, safely for over a year now. The 11.6:1 cars don't quite have the pop the 12.5:1 cars have, but they too run excellent on 91 octane, and can tolerate a few degrees more timing in the tune.

The 2.3L head is not needed for a 2.0L unless it's an all out assault. The 2.0L head can easily support 200whp in stock form on a 2.0L, and much more with a small amount of targeted work.

Four years playing with the Duratec will learn you a thing or two about it.
 
#6 ·
it means cosworth.... I was just being short... well afetr talking to Turbo Tom for awhile, I have decided the NA route is gonna be way too expensive for too little power... sorry I know some of you wanted to see this happen... oh well...
 
#7 ·
I dunno, I think uou may be close, but I don't know if you would hit 200. You would need what 80+ wheel horsepower to get there? It would definately make your car quicker than what it is though, lol
 
#8 ·
I wouldn't mill that head to get to 12:1 compression.

Walter was running 12.5:1 on 91 octane in his silver race car. I'm pretty sure it is doable, just gonna take some major tuning to work right.
 
#11 ·
Trust me I had 180whp N/A and that shit was fast ...... Im sure the FS turbo will be fast too, but there's nothing like 200 whp n/a. I would have been there by now if I still had my duratec.

I was running FS intake, Draxas header and flex, Crane stage II cams, valve springs and retainers, BS deleted, HKS hi-power exhaust, 67mm TB, SCT tuned making 180 whp. 154 wtq.
 
#13 ·
I know thats why Id expect you to have about 185whp if you did all the mods you listed. Not 2oo
 
#16 ·
would a goal of 185hp at the wheels be do-able? thats 15hp less. and if the engine was taken out and put on a dyno itself... it would probably make 200hp... if it was getting 185hp to the wheels...

so my question is... that would it be possible 185hp to the wheels do-able N/A?
 
#19 ·
everyone I have talked to says the s/c for the duratec wont happen because it isnt practical... minimal room so the cost would be over $5000... I doubt anyone will pay for something like that when they can have the FS Stg2 for $1000 less... u can buy new internals with that [:D]
 
#21 ·
I would say I/H/E, cams/gears/springs, tune, polyurethane mounts, TB, IM, and a little bit higher compression....that should put you close to 185whp, I think... might need a lighter flywheel and upgraded clutch for all that too...
 
#22 ·
Lighter flywheels increase your whp, but also cause you problems in daily driving. The SVT's didn't have as much of an issue with it because- from what I understand, the SVT had a larger flywheel. With the Duratec, you should understand that if you put an 8 lb flywheel on your car you will either stall on hills, or spin out every time. Also, you can expect this to be twice as bad in the rain. I would not recommend it for anyone who lives in a hilly area.

An old friend of mine who's very familiar with elmination drag racing told me about his experiences with aluminum flywheels on his race cars. It gives you a leg up at the start, but less of a push when you shift gears. Think about it, and you'll see it's simple physics: speed x weight = force. When you hit second gear would you rather have 6k x 23lbs of force, or 6k x 8 lbs of force? From what Charlie told me, it evens out on the strip.

The bummer for your daily driver is that once you've spent $400 on an aluminum flywheel, and then had it installed- if you don't like it or you can't drive it in the rain- what are you going to do?
 
#23 ·
also i might be able to add to this mix is... my friend is starting to port heads for like LS1's etc... and im starting to look for a 2.0L duratec head i can give to him and let him work slowly at it...

so far.... intake, exhaust... header... cams... springs and valves for the stage 2 cams... hopefully we'll see something about walter's IM soon...
 
#27 ·
That will work! Even better with a tune.

About the Cossie manifold on a 2.0: A long time ago I wondered if perhaps welding some of those Syclone (I believe that's the name) intake swirlers in there would help to restrict a bit of flow. That's the original company that started that idea before Turbonator stole it. NOT that this makes it a quality product, or that it works like they say it does- just that for the purpose of restricting the flow a bit, it might actually do something.

The best way to make the Cossie manifold work on the D20 is just put a big freaking cam in it. Go balls to the wall, race only, high compression, and you'll be fine with the manifold as is.

I still say turbo is the best way to make power out of the Duratec. Although I would be partial to investing in a stroked D23 if such is available when I decide that I have enough money in assets to spend on my car.
 
#26 ·
WELL... we did have a big discussion on here before, and someone found info sayin that cossie was NOT gonna make a manifold just for the 2.0... but if they did... it would be ALOT better than the one they have now, b/c it'll be reworked to work better with the 2.0 rather than the 2.3....
 
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