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13's for $2500.00

17K views 72 replies 24 participants last post by  daveyboy 
#1 · (Edited)
I got to thinking the other day about this up coming racing season and the budjet that I have and came up with this: A 13 second pass for 2500 bucks. The subject for this exsperment is my 05 Mazda 3 with a 2.0L, While not a focus the engines and transmissions are very similar. The car is very close to stock. Only mods are a customized air box, Grounded Throttle body and rear "dog bone" Mount.

I have a Nitrous kit already sitting in the garage Waiting to be installed. so I plan on using that.
Other plans to get me there:
Light weight wheels and drag radials
Nitrous controller and assorted Nitrous installation assesories
Header
Custom built exhaust(have welder and know how to use it), or the tru bendz off of the focus.(if it will fit)
Lentech Valve body and some syntetic transmission fluid (for reliability)
Wide band O2
Remove AC belt, but leave compressor (has electric power steering so thats not an option)
Possible weight reduction, although i would like to keep the car looking good
Possible other mods involve porting the throttle body and thinning the shaft mainly for throttle response, but with out some sort of fuel management I am not sure if that will work
Issues that I will have
There is no tune available for the car yet, with none being planned as far as I know. So in order to adust A/F I would have to get a piggy back controller.
The header for the car is 500 bux. Ouch! So I was thinking/hoping that some one had one for a focus sitting in the garage or even on their car that I could borrow to see about fittiment issues. I figure a grand total in wheels and tires, Valve body 450, Header 500,the rest of the Nitrous componets may be 300. so thats about 2250, unless I can find parts cheaper...belive me I am looking.
If everything goes according to plan I should have this accomplished by the end of the racing season this year. I will be heading to the strip in april to get a base line to see what I have to work with.

So now all I need is your input (Just pretend it is a auto focus with a Dtech motor)
 
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#4 ·
Yes...still researching my management options. What ever I get is going to be spendy.
I have been looking into This
I did some thinking and discovered that I can save a little money on tires so that should help.

Not sure how much nitrous I am going to need gonna have to do a base line and then go from there
 
#5 ·
IMO

i think its going to be really really hard... unless you find everything used... $1500 for a turbo kit, a free tune, and other cheap supporting mods.

if you get the nitrous hooked up and running good youll be in the low 14's with all that you mentioned,

save on the lightweight wheels and just buy 2 very good tires for the front. Also weight reduction, take out every seat but the drivers, and strip it inside of everything you dont use... -200lbs can shave off time in the 1/4 you know...
 
#6 ·
I agree. I know it was gonna be hard when i came up with the idea. I think you are right about the wheels and tires. However. Gonna keep my plan for the fronts mainly because i want a shorter tire. It will help with my gear ratio a bit
 
#7 ·
seeing as this is a very specific, track oriented goal id say dont get drag radials, go straight for slicks. Weight reduction will help a lot too.
 
#8 ·
dont get drag radials, go straight for slicks. .
Just curious as to why. Have friends that run low 11s on Drag radials...I have actually never used DR's just slicks, but that was only cause they we 100 bux for the pair
May be cause of the fwd thing?? please exsplain.
 
#9 ·
He don't need full slicks u can't launch an automatic fwd unless u figure out a trans brake. U definitely need a custom dyno tune especially with and automatic with nitrous at least $600 just for that. Don't take this the wrong way but it seems like alot of work cause of not starting with the right base/car. Good luck let's see how far u go
 
#10 ·
I dont know what you are talking about. I picked the perfect base car it pretty, comfy and gets good gas mileage.Lol. Gonna be a challenge for sure. But that is why I chose to do this. Already built s 13 sec camaro and i almost put no effort into it, so this should be really fun
 
#11 ·
your biggest shortcoming up front is the auto.

I would talk to Bwinlkers (sp?) he has a STOCK INTERNALS 07 d20 hatch, header, IM, gutted to the dickens, running mid 12s on 100 shot spray alone with 22" slicks. Unfinished tune. He was running a wet 75 shot untuned for a long time too (Before the IM).
 
#12 ·
I already talked to him...He was a big help
As far as the auto, the only issue that i can see is it taking a bit more power to reach my goal and may be strenth issues. That being said I am very familar with racing automatic transmissions. As a mater of fact thats all I have ever raced. I am gonna try launching a couple diffrent was to see which one works the best. Form Idle and then stalling the car against the converter.
I dont plan on tearing into the internals of the engine...unless it requires it to reach my goal. If that is the case a simple head port and valve job is all I would do
 
#15 ·
^^^ GET UR FACTS STRAIT BOY! lol jk...

I imagine drag radials will be fine, i believe a stock focus auto goes high 16's? so the 3 should be about the same. When you go in April are you planning on running the car stock and then start putting the parts on slowly? that's personally what id like to see, the results of each mod or small groups of mods together to see just how they affect the car. gotta love the consistency of an automatic.

Make sure to keep us updated.
 
#19 ·
Mid 16's is what I figure the mazda will run. About a tenth or two slower than my focus...but mine has an exhaust on it.
I plan on do in the mods progressively like you stated, just to see what each one does for me.
Honestly I cant think of any one that races regularly that uses a manual transmission. Think you said it quite well...add to that though "Especially a computer controlled one"

my uncle showed me a trick to get around 8 horses out of machining the spark plug tips, i didn't believe him, but he did it for mine and i noticed a difference. your spark plugs last about 6 months though. i guess that's the only downfall
I think I know what trick you are talking about. Plan on doing a little work on the spark plugs myself, mainly to remove sharp edges to help thward detonation. Not worried about plug longevity cause I probably will replace them after each race when running the nitrous
 
#17 ·
my uncle showed me a trick to get around 8 horses out of machining the spark plug tips, i didn't believe him, but he did it for mine and i noticed a difference. your spark plugs last about 6 months though. i guess that's the only downfall
 
#22 ·
Just installed my "Dog bone" with the Delrin bushing. Just a heads up Delrin bushings are pretty much a race only thing. A bunch more vibration at idle and around 1500-2000 rpm. I am hoping it will help my 60' a bit....errrrggg I wish race season would hurry up [bigcry]
 
#23 ·
So I cleaned out the garage to day.You will never guess what I found, that I had forgot all about... A turbo off of a volvo and a 2.3 L head off of a focus ST (needs a couple valves) Possibilities just opened up. Probably wont go turbo, but a ported high flow head. That cant hurt!!!
 
#25 ·
I just for got I had them. I still am gonna stick to my original plan, but keep a little money aside. That way if I cant make my goal i will install a ported and polished high flow head. then I am sure I will make it. I would like to reach the goal without tearing into the engine. Eventually though that head will go on
 
#26 ·
Well have some sad news. Got rid of the Mazda. Was having issues, Check engine light came on two weeks after I bought it and It was just too small My knees were getting sore from resting on the dash all the time. In a way I am sad Cause I cant do this neat project but its probably for the best. What car did I get......06 mustang GT. always wanted a mustang. Its a bout time I got one. Sooooo much more leg room and it is a 13.8-14.2 1/4 mile time already. My first purchase will be some drag radials and some rear wheels. Im going to build a 12 second car and play at the track this year.
That being said If some body wanted to duplicate this "build"(you buy parts) i would be willing to do the work and even throw in a ported 2.3L head(when it is done) Might be a little easier with a focus. Hell of a deal guys anyone up for it
 
#27 ·
A little late at adding to this but the 2.0L Mazda 3 even in MTX is a low to mid 16 second car. ATX I would say closer to the 17 Flat Mark.

Automatics are amazing transmissions it's why my car has remained auto to compete in IHRA Street class Bracket Races. If you would have kept going with this project I would have recommended 22-23" Drag Radials or Slicks, but they have to be small diameter to make up for the gearing disadvantage. N/A nad Nitrous cars love small diameter, short gearing set-ups. Nitrous does alot better on an auto car then manual especially spraying through the gears.

The most important thing no one talked about was installing a high stall torque converter. You will never acheive the times you want with 2.3/2.4 60ft times. Spraying through the shifts I'd recommend an upgraded Valve Body also.

Take into account all the supporting bolt-ons and a 2.3L head shaved down for 10.5:1 or 11:1 compression with a good sized shot on that automatic with the mods listed above and you have a car that will go head to head against a turbo car.
 
#38 ·
letting it collect dust in my garage.



[:)][:)][:)][:)][:)][:)]*The offer still stands for any one wanting to do this build. I will do all the work and supply a 2.3 L head. Just need some one who wants to use their car and pay for parts[:)][:)][:)][:)][:)][:)]
 
#43 ·
Mine did about the same thing. The thing really doesnt start to make power till 3000 rpm. It really needs a stall around there or a bit closer to the peak torque to really 60' Like it should. I know there are converter companys out there that make converters drive like a street converter put stall like a race converter.
 
#47 ·
I had mine done by Andre @ Edge Racing Converters. It's a very streetable converter for 3500rpm. But as soon as you get the throttle down 1/4 ways the rpms shoot up to 3000-3500 and it pulls without even downshifting. Truly the best mod any automatic can do. Anything less then 3500rpm on a Zetec motor and you will bog it down off the line. 4000Rpm would be a perfect race converter, I've been told you want to get within 500-700rpm's of your peak torque. I'm not sure what a Duratec would need though.

I'm not sure what Lentech does for converter speeds but the few members that bought one had less then 3000rpm stall and IMO that's a waste, your leaving alot on the table. If I had a mustang I would see Andre or head over to Yank or PI.
 
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