all boltons, cams, and a FR head, Torsen or quaiffe LSD, clutch and flywheel, and drag radials. that will put u in upper 14's. you need about 200 bhp to see that, or about 155+ whp.
where do you think i will be with CAI, UDP, full 2.5 exaust, JBA long tube header, centerforce clutch, flywheel, 2000 intake mani, head decked .050, 4.06 final drive?
Dont waste your money on the 2000 IM. The only difference is its a solid one piece, which is nice for boost. Just port your IM. Also the UDP won't make that big of difference. So if you don't have one don't worry about it IMO.
Is your car gutted? That will help a ton too.
If your practiced I think you can run low to mid 15's with those mods. My friend ran a 15.8 in a wagon with a tune, CAI, TB, and OBX headers.
*EDIT*
Here's a video of his 15.8 run. This is well before he did the SVT swap too.
I know this is late but, there is no difference on the inside of the 00 vs 01 and up IM. The 01 and up is a two piece which can blow apart under hi boost. In a NA applacation it won't affect the way the car gets air. I have one only because it was there when I got the motor. I would not invest my money into one.
I think everyone should focus (lol) on weight reduction mods.. if you removed your back seat, the passenger seat, floor mats, gutted your cat, removed speakers, etc, you'd be looking at a lot of free weight. It really does make a difference.
EDIT: And for the record, you're very capable of 14s with just some weight reduction, drag radials, a pnp stock head milled to 10.5:1, some stage 2 cams, intake, header, and exhaust. Hell, you could probably break 14s on street tires. I was also informed that fender skirts would do some justice. An ATX ZX2 ran a 15.69 in the 1/4 with intake, header, and exhaust, along with the fender skirts. Over 235k miles on the engine and trans. I'm not asking you to shoot down my claims, just to think about the mods that count.
Why dont they go together? if done right i dont see why not. lightweight flywheel and wheels, UDP, exaust, CAI, 2000 intake mani, torsen,4.06 drive, header, cam gears, and a good tune Im sure would get me close and they are all road worthy mods same with bumping the compression and maybe even porting and a valve angle. Throw in some slicks and a cf hatch with lexan and a cf hood. Why wont that work for driving around town under 65mph?
FR head
Crower stage 2 cams
cam gears
Svt header
2.5 inch all the way back,
no cat
65 mm tb
good intake (aem, pipercross, etc)
Torsen diff
good clutch
and drag radials or equivalent sticky tires
that will get you to the 14's end of story
as forthe udp, don't even bother, it throws off harmonics and doesn't give you power
FR head
Crower stage 2 cams
cam gears
Svt header
2.5 inch all the way back,
no cat
65 mm tb
good intake (aem, pipercross, etc)
Torsen diff
good clutch
and drag radials or equivalent sticky tires
that will get you to the 14's end of story
If this list will put me in the 14s no problem then why coudnt i drive this car everyday? Its not like thats completly built for racing or anything.
Maybe you need to get another car to haul your wife and kid in before you start putting this stuff on it and on accidently mess it up, and then not even have a ride for them...
i have another ride mine is just the daily for now. Why would i mees it up none of these mods are exactly hard to do with the access to a lift dyno and a good guy too tune it all. By the way i dont plan on getting cams or the head for a while so i would have to be prety stupid to mess my car up.
i'd do most of the basic bolt ons like others have listen except the head/cams...instead save some money, make more power and go nitrous! with a good tune.
My 2000 Focus with a Zetec ran 14.4 all day long,
with a Focus central header, Proflow MAFS, crower stg 2 cams, FC t/b, stock flywheel and clutch, 2.5" exhaust, intake, copper spark plugs, msd spark plug wires, a phantom grip lsd, that was about it.
With every modification you take a step away from the civilized Ford engineering and throw caution to the wind. It will idle rough, probably be cold-blooded, be loud, vibrate more, get worse mileage, require premium fuel, etc... its a bit of a "can of worms" effect when you modify a car a lot.
Plus drag racing isn't exactly friendly on the drivetrain.
Personally I think that's a lot of hassle to run a high 14. Just not enough bang for the buck.
two words: tur-bo. thats all you need, you can drive it everyday and be fine on low boost, turn it up and run faster than 14's. its basically the same amount as buying all those parts new, and your toddler doesnt have to hold on to the spare tire.
matt Posted via FF Mobile
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