Need help with Remote Start Alarm install
This is a long thread. Please take time to read and help.
This is the installation manual for my r/s alarm.
WIRING: 9-PIN Connector
Green: MODE A: (-) Start Activation Input This wire allows an outside source or accessory to activate a Remote Start. A 1-second Ground pulse on this wire will trigger a remote start. This wire can be used with an RS-400 temperature module.
Brown: (+) Siren Output
Connect brown wire to siren red wire. Connect black wire of siren to chassis ground (body metal).
Brown/White: (-) Horn Honk Output (Optional, may require a relay)
Connect to the Negative Horn Trigger wire usually located near the steering column. If the vehicle horn circuit requires +12V, then a relay is required. RELAY WIRING: Connect the Brown/White wire to terminal 85, connect relay terminals 86 and 87 to +12V constant power. Connect terminal 30 of the relay to the +12V positive device/circuit to be activated.
Black/White: (-) 500mA Dome Light Illumination Output (Optional, Requires relay)
Negative Dome Light System: Connects to terminal 85 of a relay. Connect terminals 86 +12V Constant. Connect terminal 87 to Chassis Ground and Connect Terminal 30 to the Negative dome light activation circuit.
Positive Dome Light System: Connects to terminal 85 of a relay. Connect terminals 86 & 87 to +12V Constant. Connect terminal 30 to the Positive dome light activation circuit.
Green/Red: Remote Aux. Output 1 OR MAP-Mobile Accessories Protection (Optional, requires relay)
This is a programmable output that can operate two different ways: 1. (DEFAULT) A Remote Auxiliary Output that provides a ½ Second (-) Negative pulse when Button #3 is pressed to open a Factory power trunk or hatch release. It can function as an MAP output that provides a continuous (-) Negative output when in the system is put into VALET PARK MODE.
Blue/Black: (-) IGNITION OUT or REMOTE AUX. Output #2 (Programmable, See Programmable Option #17) This wire functions as a Negative IGNITION OUTPUT (Ground while Remote Starting) for use when connecting factory Security Bypass modules or when an additional external Ignition Relay is required for your installation. This wire can be programmed to function as an AUXILIARY OUTPUT #2 providing a momentary (-) Negative output when Button #3 (Trunk) is pressed and held for more than 2 seconds. The Aux Channel #2 output stays on as long a the button is held down. Connect to the Negative activation circuit of an auxiliary module or device.
Blue/White: (-) Passenger Door Unlock Output (Optional, requires relay) This wire activates when the unlock button on the remote is pressed a second time upon disarming. This wire is used for the Optional Separate Driver’s/Passenger Unlock feature. Connects to unlock circuit for passenger door or doors. See DOOR LOCK WIRING for special configuration options.
Orange: (-) Negative Starter Disable/Anti-Grind Output This wire should be connected to the Yellow wire of the pre-wired relay socket for the starter disable. Connect the blue wire of the relay socket to the Ignition switched wire on the vehicle. Cut the vehicle starter wire and connect each half to an Orange wire on the relay socket. This output also turns on with remote start to function as an “Anti Grind” wire to prevent the starter from grinding if you get in your car and turn the key too far after it was remote started. See starter disable diagram on next page.
Orange/Black: (-) OEM Disarm Output
This wire provides a Ground pulse to disarm vehicles' Factory anti-theft system prior to a Remote Start. Connect this wire to the vehicles' anti-theft disarm wire. This wire is sometimes found coming off the Driver's door key switch or at the Factory Anti-theft control module.
** The only two wires I have connected are the Orange and the Brown. I don't know whether I need relays to use the Black/White, the Green/Red, and the Blue/White. I also don't know where to connect the Green wire( Do I connect this to the BYPASS MODULE)**
WIRING: 6-PIN High Current Connector
PIN 1: BROWN: STARTER OUTPUT (30A Max.)
PIN 2: GRAY: ACCESSORY (HEAT/AC) (30A)
PIN 3: RED: +12V POWER INPUT (BATTERY) FUSED (30A)
PIN 4: RED: +12V POWER INPUT (BATTERY) FUSED (30A)
PIN 5: PINK: IGNITION 1 (30A Max.)
PIN 6: PINK/WHITE: IGNITION or ACCESSORY #2 OUTPUT (30 Max.)
** I have connected all but the PINK/WHITE( Am I going to use the PINK/WHITE wire?).**
WIRING: 3-PIN Connector
White/Red: Tachometer Input When installing this system in TACH REFERENCE mode, this wire must be connected to a valid source of AC voltage. This wire allows the unit to sense the engine running. See Tach Section on Page 15 for more information.
Black: Chassis Ground Connect to body metal of the vehicle using a sheet metal screw and a star washer to ensure a good ground. Keep the Ground wire short. Scrape away and paint or debris from ground location.
WHITE: +12V or (-) 500mA NEGATIVE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT: Connect to vehicle parking light circuit at the back of light switch or if this is not possible, connect directly to one of the parking lights at the front of the vehicle. If your vehicle has a multiplex lighting system that requires a (-) Negative parking light output, then move the jumper from (+) to (-). See Jumper Pin Diagram (Pg. 26). Some European vehicles require separate left and right circuits. Use a dual relay or diodes to isolate the output.
** I have connected all of these wires.**
WIRING: 5-PIN Connector
Violet: (+) Door Pin Switch Input Same as the GREEN wire below except this wire is used for vehicles that show a positive voltage (+12 volts) when the door is open and a ground when doors are closed as in many Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury vehicles.
Green: (-) Door Pin Switch Input Identify the wire that reads ground when any door is open and 12 volts when all doors are closed. Some vehicles may have isolated door triggers. In this case you may need to run additional wires from other doors or go directly to the wire that triggers the vehicle’s interior dome light. Sometimes newer vehicles contain a separate body control module (BCM) where the door trigger circuit can be located. Most vehicles will NOT require the use of BOTH Green and Violet door trigger wires.
Blue: (-) Hood/Trunk Pin Switch Input Input trigger for a grounding hood or trunk pin switch. Connect to existing hood and trunk pin switches that read ground when open. If no existing switches are available, install new pin switches if desired. Note: DO NOT mount new pin switches in water pathways.
Pink: (+12V) +/- Car Jack Input (Programmable Input Wire)
When using Carjack protection, connect this Pink wire to a toggle switch, or positive door trigger or ignition depending on your level of Carjack protection. When +12V is applied to this wire, with the IGN on, then Carjack is armed. If a door is opened then closed, a Carjack countdown will begin. See Diagram Below for wiring configurations. DO NOT connect the Pink Carjack wire to Ignition unless there is extreme danger of a Carjack. When using the Ignition, Carjack is armed all the time and must be reset each time a door is opened and closed.
White: (+12V) Brake Reset Connect the White wire to the side of brake pedal switch that shows +12 volts ONLY when pedal is depressed. This will turn off the remote start if someone attempts to drive the car without the keys or if the Ignition key is not turned on all the way.
** I have connected the BLUE and the White. I don't know where to connect the VIOLET and the GREEN( I don't care about the PINK). **
POWER DOOR LOCKS: WIRING & SYSTEM TYPES
GREEN: (-) LOCK / (+) UNLOCK
BLUE: (-) UNLOCK / (+) LOCK [READ BELOW FOR COMMON DOOR LOCK TYPES]
RED: +12V Coil Power for external relays
HINT! This system provides BOTH Positive and Negative Door Lock Outputs on the same set of wires. Make note of this and use diodes when installing this system on either Positive or Negative types of door lock systems to prevent damage to the unit’s door lock outputs. See door lock diagrams on next page for diode use. With Reverse Polarity systems or when installing Door Lock Actuators in the doors, external relays or a relay module is required.
NOTE: This door lock information is provided as a guide. Your particular vehicle may differ.
Negative or Positive Trigger (-/+): Many Vehicles: Imports, Ford, GM, Chrysler and European
Negative trigger door lock systems send a Negative (Ground) pulse to existing factory relays to lock and unlock the vehicle doors while positive systems send a +12 Volt signals.
Reverse Polarity: Many Ford/Lincoln/Mercury/Dodge/Chrysler/Plymouth and early 90’s GM Trucks
Reverse Polarity systems use no relays, but instead the door lock/unlock motors are controlled directly from the lock and unlock switches in the door. The lock and unlock wires rest at Negative Ground when not in use. When the lock or unlock button is pressed, one of the circuits is “Lifted” and replaced with +12V causing a lock or unlock to occur.
** Which typre does our FOCUS has? Where do I connect the RED(Do I connect this to a 12V constant?)? I have two diodes included in the kit. Where do I connect the GREEN and the BLUE? **
Any help will be appreciated.
First and foremost, i praise you for trying to install something as complex as a remote start system by yourself. though, i must caution you -- if you don't know what you're doing, things can go bad. fast.
Green/Red .the trunk release has a relay built into the vehicle's control module. you can connect this wire directly to the trunk release wire.
Blue/White .also known as progressive door locks. this feature mimics the factory keyless, where when you press the unlock button once, it only unlocks the drivers door. if you press it again, it unlocks the remaining. If you don't connect this wire, when you press unlock, all your doors will unlock.
Blue/Black .this wire supplies a 200ma (-) connection to be used in conjunction with a bypass module such as the DEI 555S [for the focus]
The information you listed in your PIC did not show door trigger information, yet can easily be figured out. The door triggers are negative in the focus. This means, the door circuit shows positive voltage (~12v) when the doors are closed, but go to ground (0v) when opened. I believe in my focus, the circuit showed 4v when closed, and 0v opened. in any case, when the doors are closed, the voltage should be significantly higher than 0v. In my focus, i had two door triggers (one for the driver and passenger side). if you are doing a security system, i would highly suggest finding them both.
Violet .NOT USED.
Green . Door Triggers (can find the right wires at either the keyless module or the door pins themselves)
What type of door locks does our focus have? the tech sheet lists it above: "Type B" door locks... that is.... negative triggered relay driven door locks. In simple terms, send a (-) negative pulse to the lock or unlock wire and the doors will go accordingly.
you will not do anything with the red wire. if you had a different type of door lock system, that red wire would be used to energize one set of terminal coils. in your case, connect the GREEN wire to your LOCK wire. connect the BLUE wire to your UNLOCK wire.
I hope every person in here is like you. Thanks so much. I may post more questions when needed. Thanks for answering all my questions and to everybody who took time to read my long post( that's why I love this online community).
i agree. it's great how many valuable people that we have on this board. people like john, robert, and many others who make this board as helpful as it is.
And don't forget yourself, Scott, you are as valuable as they are. When I get done with the r/s alarm install, maybe you can transfer this thread to the "How To...?" forum or page.
there is another 'how to' about alarms/remote starts on the FAQ page that i helped out on.
best of luck
1. How do I test the door lock and the door unlock wires?
I have a Voltmeter/Tester. There is only one BLACK/RED wire but still uncertain. There are two BLACK/YELLOW wires and I found that the one is for the DRIVER DOOR PIN and still uncertain about the other one if it is for the DOOR UNLOCK.
2. How do I find the TRUNK PIN wire? What is its specific color?
I just ordered a pair of TRANSPONDER KEYS at ebay($16 EACH). One for spare, the other for the BYPASS MODULE( I still have the 2 original keys). I was reading the BULLDOG SEC. ONLINE, and according to them, I don't need to cut it to use it for the B/M.
3. How do I do this? I only have understanding of programming the cut T/Keys. Someone please walk me through on how to do this.
re #1: for negative triggered door locks (ie. focus), the wire should have positive voltage when the door is closed (the door pin is pushed in). the wire should go to 0v (ground) when the door is open (the door pin is at its 'rest' state). therefore, strip back some of the insulation on the suspected wire. set the voltmeter to DC volts. place the red probe of the meter on this wire. place the black probe on a solid grounding point (no paint!). Assuming you're doing this with the door open, the correct wire will show 0v when the door is open, and when you push the plunger (from the door pin) inwards, it should show positive voltage. as mentioned in my above post, in my focus, it was around 4v (with the pin pushed in)
re #2: the trunk pin is also negative, so it will test the same was as the doors... positive voltage will be seen on the wire with the trunk closed, 0v when the trunk is open. i'm not looking at the information at the moment, but the wire is found at the light in the hatch/trunk. go from there.
re #3: how many ignition keys do you already have for the vehicle? if you have only one, the ONLY way to make a duplicate key is to have ford do it for you. if you have two keys already, then, using the bypass module you can program the new keys...
All I'm waiting for are the keys I ordered at ebay. I'm just gonna follow what Bulldog wrote on their site on how to program a key using the B/M.
I did not mount the R/S alarm module on the firewall, I proly hang it together with the bunch of wires(Is this a good idea?).
First thing in the morning, I'll test the alarm. Hoping everything works.
Thanks John for the help.
if you found both door triggers, without diode isolating them, you may cause problems with the door circuit. possibly when armed, this will inadvertantly set your alarm off. in other vehicles it does different (more crazy stuff. ie if you open your drivers door, the car thinks you opened a passenger rear door)
programming a 3rd key is pretty easy. i would take the key and get it cut (anywhere they cut keys), that way you have a spare ignition key. the one that you want to use for remote start...don't get it cut.
their programming instructions should be similar to this:
*place spare key in universal bypass module. place antenna ring around ignition cylinder. connect wiring to remote start.
*put key #1 in the ignition, and turn the key forward (do not start vehicle) wait for (!) light to go off. remove key
*put key #2 in the ignition, turn key, wait for (!) to go off. remove key.
*activate the remote start.
since the ring of the universal bypass is around the ignition, it transfers the encoded chipped signal down to the key thats in the universal box. however, good placement of the antenna will be critical. if the key was cut and you could put it in your ignition, it would maybe be less time consuming?
regarding where you have it mounted/hanging. yes, i realize there are a lot of wires, and i know this was your first install... but for next time, plans things out better. the first place a theif is going to look to disable an alarm system is under the drivers side dash. so, hopefully all your wires are taped or loomed such that they don't give off any hints to where things may be found.
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