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Yanner's 2012 stereo install

25K views 57 replies 22 participants last post by  Lite12 
#1 ·
First off, big thanks to those who have posted info and pictures and answered questions in the other threads.

I wish I would have taken more pictures but I'll try to get a couple more.

The car:

2012 Ford Focus SEL 5MT with leather, moonroof and 17 inch wheels



The gear:

Polk 6.5 inch components for the front, and 6.5 inch coaxials for the rear





Alpine V60 5 channel amplifier



Audio Control LCQ-1 Sound Processor



Pioneer 10 inch shallow mount subwoofer



The install:

I got the Polk tweeters to fit rather easily into the factory sail panels. I just bent one of the tabs back that held the factory tweeter and expoxied the new tweeter in after having scuffed its sides with sandpaper. I installed the Polk speakers in the doors using the included mounts. I also installed sound deadening on the door skin directly behind the speaker and a bit around the mounting surface of the speaker. On the rear doors, I also added some sound deadening on the bottom surface of the door, taking care not to interfere with any possible water drainage paths.

I ran the power wire from the battery towards the passenger side on the engine side of the firewall (60A fuse). Went thru the grommet to underneath the glovebox and ran along the trim at the door sills. Removed the rear passenger cubby/trays for the final bit into the hatch.

I tapped into the factory speaker wires directly underneath the shifter. I ran all 8 (4 for the line level inputs and 4 return amplified outputs) basically in a straight line from under the shifter to the hatch area. Getting through the tunnel was probably the toughest part and I don't know if I'd take that approach again.



I used a small power distribution block to split power between the amp and the sound processor. I'll be tapping into it here as well when I add my tow wiring. New holes for grounds were easy to make, made one for each of the above.

I made the box (my first ever) out of 3/4 inch MDF (no 5/8 available locally in small sheets) and modeled it after commercially available version from Pioneer. It is 0.5 cubic feet internal volume. I still have to clean it up a bit and carpet it.

Test assembly of the box:



Test of the wiring:



Amplifier and sound processor hidden underneath floor:



Current state:

 
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#46 ·
Hi Yanner,

I'm working on installing my own set of Polk db6501 components, but I'm stuck at the tweeters. It seems the new tweeter is too big to get into the stock tweeter mounts. I read what you did and I'm wondering if you can be more detailed for me? Did you somehow remove grey plastic piece from around the tweeter?
 
#47 ·
It's been nearly a year. Re-reading my own post, it says I bent a tab back on the sail panel to make the new tweeters fit. After scuffing the body of the tweeter, I used dabs of epoxy on the tweeter body where it touches the plastic of the sail panel when inserted. Nearly 1 year later and many door closings, it hasn't gotten loose and there's never been any rattles.

The grey plastic is what i scuffed to let the epoxy get a good grip. They key to making them fit is breaking off the correct tab on the sail panel. Let me know if you have any other questions. There's another thread of someone installing the same components and I believed they used duct tape.
 
#50 ·
Hello Yanner,

What do your tweeters look like installed? Do they fit inside the stock tweeter housing?

I'm looking into upgrading my stereo (also 2012 SEL no-Sony) and I want to know how the tweeters would fit. It looks like you have the Polk db6501's which have 1"/25.4mm tweeters. Would slightly bigger tweeters fit? I'm looking at the Hertz 165 XL speakers which have 28mm tweeters.

Thanks, your thread has been super helpful for an uber-noob like me.
 
#51 ·
The very first post says "I got the Polk tweeters to fit rather easily into the factory sail panels." So yes I got them to fit, so they look like stock when installed. I have a feeling slightly larger tweeters would fit but would perhaps require different or more modifications. I bent one tab back to make mine fit, so you might need to do more to make a bigger one fit.
 
#57 ·
One question, that 2" round "knob" on the pass side panel, what is it for? And how does it come off?
I have an Alpine PLT-5 sub installed, sitting along that side and am trying to figure out a good way to mount it without screwing it into the floor.
I want it to be semi easy to remove when space is needed, so may rig up a bracket that slides over that round thing, or remove it and bolt into the side.
 
#58 ·
FWIW, I am running the stock 6spk HU, Alpine KTP-445U for the door power(all spk level, tapped in with Parrot harness), LC2i fed front spk level in from HU to rca out to sub, Alpine PLT-5 powered sub.
Just got the LC2i & sub installed today and haven't had time to do any tweaking but I have NO thump on turn on.
I have main power strait from the Batt to the sub in the hatch, LC2i is hot when key on from 15A fuse in rear panel, using GTO turn on to sub amp.
So far quite happy with the results, now just need time (and good weather) to install the door speakers and finish tweaking it.

I send out a big thanx to the many posts here that have helped me out on this project. I'll try to get a couple pics up once I get it all prettied up.
 
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