Focus Fanatics Forum banner

Replace Sony Sub

25K views 51 replies 21 participants last post by  aaron.b 
#1 ·
I have a 2012 SEL with the Sony package. I'm not a huge audiophile so the speakers suit me fine, but the sub is kind of weak for my taste unless I turn the bass all the way up then the other speakers do sound like crap. After replacing the OEM speakers and putting an amp and sub in my Mustang recently I don't feel like going through all that again right now so is it possible to simply remove the Sony sub and connect the wires to a better sub. I was hoping on putting in a single 10" sub. Thanks in advance.
 
#2 ·
I believe that would work if the stock sub is 10" and the depth of the new sub can fit into the box. In my opinion that really wouldn't make much difference unless you plan on adding a different amplifier to it or possibly a new box. Also make sure the sub you plan to use calls for that size of box and is the same impedance (ohms). A lot of times if the box isn't within the spec for the sub it doesn't sound that well. I'm sure someone with the 2012 model has done this and can let you know if it's worth it or not.
 
#4 ·
you will still have to deal with the stock amp which means your speakers will still be run of the same amp so as you turn up bass it will affect all the speakers.
 
#9 ·
The Kicker 8" CVT fits nearly perfect in the factory box and sound decent. They don't hit very hard but sound better than the factory sub. Hadn't seen the RTs. Anything deeper than the 8" CVT won't fit though.
 
#12 · (Edited)
Anything deeper than the 8" CVT won't fit though.
How deep is the 8" CVT? Do you know how deep the factory box is? When I had my F150 it had a factory sub that I replaced with a 8" kicker CVR in the factory box and had to use a MDF spacer ring to get the needed depth. The audiophile box in the 150's had a 2.625" depth and the MDF ring was .75 so it gave me 3.375 and the CVR needed 3.25"

It worked and sounded better than the factory sub, then I replaced the factory amp with a kenwood 8104D and it was even better.
 
#11 ·
This should work great then. I see the recommended box volume on this is less than the CVT too, which should help. I would like to know how this sounds in the factory enclosure. I am holding out for an upgrade to the JL Stealthbox right now but would consider this instead. I'm into SQ more than SPL anyway, so teh $650 price tag on the Stealthbox is hard to justify.
 
#13 ·
I can't recall but the specs say 3-3/8" We had to do some slight modifying of the factory enclosure to reduce a bracket in the back of the box but nothing major.
 
#17 ·
#20 ·
I can report that the Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8 fits in the stock enclosure if you use a 3/4" MDF spacer. Screw the spacer down with the stock holes, then screw the new woofer to the spacer. Don't forget to plug or cover the hole in the back of the enclosure. I used 3 inch 12 gauge speaker wire from the stock connectors to the Punch's push terminals and wrapped the connections in duct tape. I had also stuffed the box with polyfill previously. Completely reversible mod, if you want to put it all back to stock.

The woofer is DVC 2 ohm so its a direct replacement load-wise for the Sony speaker. It also kicks the [:)][:)][:)][:)][:)] out of the stock woofer. I turned my bass down to +1 from +4 and still have more low end response. The bass is more vibratory, if that makes sense. Whereas the Sony is boomy and sort of clipped, the Punch goes more into subsonics. My dubstep (yes, I know) sounds like my home stereo now. I feel the music as much as I hear it.
I listen to everything but Country (and even then a little Soggy Bottom Boys) and the Punch makes everything sound better. It helps that I don't have to boost the bass so much, of course, but the Sony was too loud in the 45-55Hz tone and it overpowered the sound. I've had polyfill for about 4 months, and I tried running with the center unplugged for about a month. Each one of those moves made the Sony sound a bit better, but I still wouldn't call it close to the Punch.

The Punch can be had for about $100 on Amazon
 
#22 ·
Im gonna have to look into this.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2
 
#25 ·
Sorry, just saw the questions.
The Sony amp isn't going to blow your doors off no matter what woofer you attach to it, so I just sealed the back hole with super sticky electrical tape.

I can make MDF spacers, but for time and effort plus materials it was easier/cheaper to buy a set of four off of ebay. Paid 13.59 from seller CarSoundWarehouse.

Factory grill cannot be re-used - doesn't look like its big enough to go over the RF Punch. RF makes a grill, but honestly I don't put anything in my hatch that could puncture the speaker so I didn't cover it.

I decided I wasn't going back to the stock sub so I went back inside the box and stripped off the connectors and wired directly to the RF's terminals. Just wanted a cleaner install. As the Punch has loosened up/broken in its only gotten better.

A warning - if you are a rattle nut do not do this mod. You will find out just how well your car is put together. After a listen to Daft Punk's Random Access Memories I know I'll have to Dynamat around the door speakers and in the headliner.
 
#30 ·
just to be clear, the Sony sub is dual voice coil, each coil being 2 ohm. There are a total of four connectors inside the sub box, two pos and two neg.

The RF is also dual voice coil, each coil being 2 ohm. There is no need for changing the wiring and I'm not recommending anyone do so (just a little CYA).

The Sony amp is putting out two channels to the sub, you can test this by disconnecting one set and witness the reduced strength of the bass overall. I don't know that the amp is 1 ohm stable and I wouldn't want to test it since its sitting under insulated carpet and surrounded by styrofoam.
 
#31 ·
Installed the Rc punch sub referenced above tonight using a 3/4" spacer. Simply cut the stock wires and plugged them in to the rf sub connectors. Pretty straight forward using me myths instructions. It's not easy to get the bottom screws in to the sub....kinda butchered the spacer so it may not be air tight.....good thing I ordered 2! Once I take it back out to swap out the spacer I will also paint the next spacer I put in black for that factory look. Now to sound....I'm no audiophile but it's not a drastic change in my eyes (ears). It hits harder and puts out a tighter and lower bass. Definately more rattles. Worth $100? Maybe.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top