Aftermarket Deck W/ Stock SVT Sub Wiring (Re-visited)
I figure I'd make a new how to on this since there seems to be some confusion with the other thread, I will make this simple to understand for those with no knowledge of electronics or wiring skills
this took me under 30 min to do and all you'll need is simple tools. to do a professional job you will need the following
1. wire cutter
2. soldering iron
3.heat shrink/electrical tape
4.spare RCA cable
now lets talk pin out, pin out is the wires going to your connector, in which case it is the BLACK plug connector
you will have 7 wires going into it
and you will need to cut 3 of the wires on the black connector, with the 7 wires going to it
the only ones you need to worry about are
WHITE/RED-amp turn on (6volts)
WHITE/BLACK-pre amp output (+)
GRAY/BLACK-pre amp output (-)
when cutting the wires make sure you leave some room on it just incase you decide to put a stock HU back in
now after you have your 3 wires cut, It's time to hook them up
the first one (in no particular order) will be your (system remote control/amp power wire) which on most normal aftermarket HU's are
BLUE/white or just solid BLUE all wiring should be labeled
so you'll take your system control/amp power wire
which is BLUE/WHITE and connect it to the WHITE/RED wire like so
now the next step you'll need to hook up your +/- pre amp outputs to a spare RCA cable
now to figure out whats what cut off some of the wire coating and you will see 2 wires like so
the wire in the middle will be your (+)
and the wire on the out side will be you (-)
now I ended up using and old scosche RCA which had a clear/and black coating on the wire the CLEAR being positive and the BLACK being negative
now you will want to hook up you +/- to the RCA wire( be very careful with the RCA wires since they are very small and frail and will break easily)
first we will take the
WHITE/BLACK which is the positive(+) and hook that up to the center RCA wire(or what ever other color you have that's positive)
second you'll take the
GRAY/BLACK which is negative(-) and hook it up to the out the outside wire(black or what ever color is your negative wire) once thats done it should look like this
after you've hooked up all three wires plug you RCA cable into the back of your aftermarket HU in a SUB pre-out ( it doesn't matter if its red or white)
this should be your final product
now plug everything back in and test it out (test it before re-installing the HU back into the dash)
if you've done everything correctly you now will have boom booms in your car
and please don't' mind the butt connectors they where use just for the mock up and how to
good revisit, this helped me finish where i got stuck 2 nights ago thanks a lot!!!
I followed this how too and when I turn on my headunit, I hear a buzzing sound coming from the subwoofer.
What could be causing this? How do I fix it?
White noise, headunit isnt good enough (doesnt have enough volts on the pre out) to push a sub or go into the amp, your bassically getting noise from somewhere, Get a aftermarket deck
I ran 2 12"s and a 1000 watt amp off this deck in my sedan.
I don't see how the deck wouldn't be good enough in my svt with a stock sub/amp setup.
This is a good revisit, but heres my issue; Im buying an aftermarket HU and EQ and need to hookup the front speakers and rear speakers to the EQ with RCA cables. Usually you just use run cables to the amp but im keeping the stock SVT amp and sub. Help? :)
I'm in the process of doing this conversion as well. I bought a Sony DSX-S100 and I intend to incorporate my factory sub. I opted not to spend another $100 to make my steering wheel controls work.....yet.
Anyhow, I follow these instructions 100% with the exception of my sub + and -
My deck has 3 pairs of RCA jacks (one white end, one red end) on the back. One labeled "Front audio out" , another labeled "BUS audio in" and another "Rear/Sub audio out".
My front and rear speakers will be wired through the pigtail harness that also has my antenna, powers and grounds...right?
If I use the signal and sheild wires of a spare RCA cable as my sub + and -, which RCA cable labled "Rear/Sub audio out" do I plug the spare RCA cable into? Red or white?
Shouldn't I simply splice the WH/BK and GY/BK to the Red AND White RCA outputs?
I just don't understand why there are two sub output RCA cables but I would use only one. Is the red sub cable for aftermarket sub #1 and the white for aftermarket sub #2?
Also, I have heard that it is necessary to wire a resistor in series with the amp wake-up power (RD/WH) because otherwise I will get a popping noise from the sub when I turn the radio on/off. Does the factory sub run on 6v instead of 12v? If I need a resistor, how big? I've heard anywhere from 200 ohms to 1.5K ohms......
Another thing making this more difficult is that I'm replacing an aftermarket deck. The crappy Dual unit currently in the car is junk and the meathead who installed it didn't use an adapter plug. Little of the factory harness connector is intact. I'll be hard-wiring pretty much everything....
I'm really comfortable with DC electrical circuits but I haven't done a lot of car audio work so this is a bit new to me. I'm not familiar with crossovers and bridges and other popular aftermarket audio devices...so I'd like to make this work with as little modification as possible
Thanks in advance for the help!
2. you only need ONE RCA to be spliced in and you can plug it in to either white or red output, it doesn't matter which one its plugged into (just make sure you understand what is positive an negative on the RCA cable)
3. in some circumstances you wont need a resistor (the way I have mine wired as shown in this how to, I don't get any kind of popping noise, most decks now a days have built in sub crossovers to where you can adjust them and there frequencies) you'll just have to take a look at the manual.
the one on my deck is accessed threw the main controls where I would adjust highs, lows, bass and treble ETC. I have the option to adjust from 50 -/+ 6, 80 -/+6, 120 -/+6
my best advice is if you can find someone parting out a junk SVT if they would be willing to chop off the stock wiring plug harness's so you don't have to hard wire directly to the deck
hope this helps
By using the shield of the RCA cable as ground, you eliminate the cables ability to filter RFI noise. So, if the only difference between the two above suggestions is that I am using a single RCA to run two output circuits wouldn't the extra 30 seconds required to run two RCA cables be worth my while due to RFI filtering ability?
The reason I ask is I have a hard time believing Sony would go through the trouble of putting a red SUB + and a white SUB - on the back of my headunit if all I need is one wire.
If it works it works, I'm just trying to figure out the difference between the two methods.
From what I gather is:
The pre amp outputs don't require hardly any current flow so by using only one RCA I am basically using the minimal amount of wire required. The sub pre amp - will be grounded at all times through the RCA shield circuit and the signal will travel along the RCA core providing sub pre amp +. The amp gets the signal and steps up the current to the magnet and thus runs the sub. If this is true, Ford just wasted their time and money making a dedicated pre amp - wire between the stereo and amp.
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