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-   -   Speaker wire Routing: Amp to Doors ???? (

FocusInCali 09-26-2004 05:22 PM

Speaker wire Routing: Amp to Doors ????
Who's doing what?

1) Are you running new speaker wire from the amp all the way to the door, which requires drilling new holes in the body and door?

2) Are you doing the same as above, but running the wire out the side of the door opening (near dash) to the side of the door panel, which exposes the wire only when the door is open?

3) Or, are you running the new wire to splice into the old wire behind the HU?

The obvious was to run the wire through the rubber boot going to the door. But I found it is a plug, not a boot; so that won't work. Unless I tap into the speaker wire near the kick panel before it goes to the plug, but I'm thinking drilling holes and using grommets would be better.

Those of you with amps, how did you route your speaker wires?

focuson03 09-26-2004 05:42 PM

if you're running a four channel, the best way to do it is to run new wires from the amp to the rears, then use the factory wiring to the rears and connect the fronts (from the amp) to it, then connect the front and rears together in the harness behind the radio. that method requires no re-routing of speaker wire to the door. if you're only using a two channel, i'd recommend running new wires to the back of the deck. . .

FocusInCali 09-26-2004 05:57 PM

That would be option #4 for a ZX3, but I have a wagon with four doors.

I know my options, I'm just curious to see what other's have done. That is an interesting thought though. If someone doesn't use the rear doors, they could tap into the rear door wires before they go to the rear door, and connect the f+r behind the HU. That means less wire ran.

For a high-end audiophile setup, that's too many connections for me. Plus I want heavier gauge wire. I'll probably run all new high quality 12ga. wire to the doors via drilling and grommets. One wire from amp to passive crossover.

Sublime 09-26-2004 08:09 PM

I have a sedan and the rears were easy as long as you don't break the big rubber boots and plastic pieces inside. I pulled the rubber/plastic boots off and ran the speaker wire directly from the amp to the rears then sealed the boots back up making sure the plastic pieces had a small notch cut out and was sealed with silicone.

The fronts were a pain in the rear. I was going to run the wiring directly into the doors but we all know that is kinda hard. Instead, I ran the wiring from the amp to the area where the wiring harness enters the door jamb. I then spliced the wires and used the stock wiring in the jambs. Once into the doors, I spliced and used new wiring for the components.

It all worked well, in the Escape, I ran it all up to the front, behind the HU, and just tied it into the wiring harness using the stock wiring into the doors. Course this is on ly 4 channels of 45 per where as the Focus is getting 75x4.

sa_pyro_ne 09-26-2004 09:36 PM

i don't really have any suggestions but i have a comment on the wire gauge. just go with new quality 16 gauge (i recommend ). 12 gauge is overkill, 16 gauge is good past 1000 watts @ 4 ohm without any audioable loss in power or SQ. that's just my opinion.

- Scott

DidHeFocus? 09-27-2004 01:36 AM

I guess #3 fits for me.

I have now have a line out converter connected to the output of the factory Blaupunkt and down to my 2 channel amp, whose line outs are connected to my mono sub amp.

The 2 channel amp's speaker outs have 14 gauge wire going back to behind the HU and from there they connect to the factory speaker wires.

I really considered switching to 14 gauge all the way from the amp to the front speakers, but when I saw that the rubber duct was actually a connector harness with NO open space to feed wire through, I changed my mind. I didn't want to mess with that, and I didn't want visible wires going from the car to the door.

carrierx 09-27-2004 03:53 PM

Im not to this point yet but ...

why not just follow the stock wires patih with new wire ? Is it that much a pain ?

sa_pyro_ne 09-27-2004 04:51 PM

Re: hmmm

Originally posted by carrierx
Im not to this point yet but ...

why not just follow the stock wires patih with new wire ? Is it that much a pain ?

It's no problem until you get to the point that DidHeFocus? just mentioned. Supposedly, where the wires go to the rubber boot/tube in the door jam, it is actually like a harness on one side. So you can't get the wire through unless you drill a new hole and have exposed wires that don't look stock and are vunerable.

- Scott

SQFocusZTS 10-01-2004 10:54 AM

I am in the process of finishing my install ( I had put 8" midbass drivers in my front doors, and I actually went the route of drilling a new hole in the door and frame of the vehicle. There was a company that i found that sells rubber door boots rather cheaply. It worked out perfectly. I'm an installer so i'd say the majority of the tools i used wouldn't be found in a common tool box.

good luck


Sublime 10-01-2004 11:37 AM

What company sells the rubber boots SQFocusZTS? I am planning a little something else in my doors and would like to clean it up some more

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