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Sound System Install

214K views 139 replies 53 participants last post by  cboeger3 
#1 ·
Well it's begun. So far I've added some JL Audio ZR650-Csi separates in the front doors. It's actually been pretty easy and it seems as if these speakers and crossovers were literally built for this car. I'm not done uploading photos, so there's more to come.

Eventually I'll be doing something different for the sub, and I'll add an amp for the new front speakers as well. Audio control is coming out with a new processor later this month called the LCQ-1 that I think will fit the bill and allow me to integrate nicely after the Sony amp. More on that later this summer as I continue to build the system bit by bit. It won't be anything elaborate. Stealth is one of my main goals...I don't want to advertise.

Any comments or questions are much appreciated!!!

Tony
 
#2 ·
Here's a couple of pics of the door before and after the mid-woofer install. Notice how the JL crossover fits perfectly into the little cavity on the left side. It was almost too good to be true, but it worked out great.

Even the foam covering over the door had a groove to run the wires from the crossover to the speakers. How can you ask for anything more?



 
#4 ·
Here's the Sony mid in the door. I imagine I could've re-used the baffle to install the JL mid, but I chose to use an inexpensive aftermarket one instead. I thought about using MDF but at this point I'm just looking for a quick fix. Down the road I might make a better one.



Here's a mounting ring that fits behind the OEM Sony baffle. I didn't use this because the baffle I chose to use fit right up against the metal door panel nice and flush.



Another shot of the Sony mid. Not a bad looking speaker compared to other OEM ones I've seen.



Here's a couple of pics of the Sony mid vs. the JL. Dimensions are fairly close. The JL is a little deeper but there's plenty of room for it in the door. Notice the passive crossovers built into the Sony. I had assumed that since it had these the Sony amp was not using any active crossovers. But it does.



 
#6 ·
Here's the Sony tweeter mounted in the pod.



Again, I was surprised how well the JL tweeter fit in the pod. In a world where everything is usually really complicated when I install a system, it's nice to find something easy from time to time!!

 
#7 ·
That's all the pics I have for now. I'll have more later.

For those of you who want to just slap some speakers in the doors and use the Sony amp to power them you're in luck. The Sony speakers are 4 ohm. I have to admit I didn't hear much of a difference between the OEM speakers and the JL Audios. My theory is that the Sony system has a lot of active crossovers and equalization so it's not letting the JLs show their full potential. So I'm not sure if it's worth just putting new speakers in the doors and not going any further. Hence, I'll be adding my own amp(s) later and bypassing the Sony amp for the front doors and sub but leaving it intact to power the rear doors and center channel.

As far as wiring, I used the JL crossovers in bi-amped mode and ran the OEM tweeter and mid wires to their respective inputs on the crossover and then ran new wiring to the JL mids and tweets. I suppose you could not use the JL crossovers and just use the OEM wiring and hook them directly up to the JLs, but I wasn't sure exactly what active crossover points the Sony amps and passive crossovers on the Sony speakers were using. Since I plan on adding amps later anyway it was just easier to use the JL crossovers now.

Anyway, that's all I've done so far. I'll be on vacation for a few weeks and I hope to pick up where I left off when I get back. Hopefully by then Audio Control will have released the LCQ-1 for sale.

Tony
 
#8 ·
How did the system sound stock? I've put an aftermarket system in every car I've driven so far, but the 2012 Focus w/ Sync + Sony premium system looks like it will be very challenging to replace so I'm hoping it's "good enough" should I get a Focus ST, but somehow I suspect it won't be. [paranoid]
 
#9 ·
Asking how the stock system sounds is like asking if the Focus is a "sporty" car. You're likely to get several answers. Obviously I didn't like it or I wouldn't have started replacing things!! LOL

I think integrating into this system won't be too hard when you consider all the Bose systems out there and BMW and a few other manufacturers with fiber optic systems. I'll know soon enough!

Tony
 
#10 ·
I'm especially interested in what you do and how it sounds when it comes to the subwoofer. I've got an extra JL Audio amp and sub laying around but I suspect we're going to have the same issues with signal correction. I think the stock system is respectable, just not quite where I'd like it as far as spl. Thanks for the write up, you're the first person I've seen tearing into a 2012 focus so far.
 
#14 ·
Well, I can only recommend it only if you're like me, which you're probably not (thank god for you!!! LOL). I'm not done with the install, but assuming everything goes as planned it should be a fairly easy integration. But who knows, there's usually something that throws a wrench into the works. But I'm fairly confident that with the LCQ-1, amp(s) and a new sub everything should come together nicely.

I wanted the MFT because I'm a tech geek, and since the Sony came with it that's what I got. MFT certainly has more than its fair share of glitches, but hopefully Ford will correct the problems soon. Other than that I'm pretty happy so far.

Hope that helps.

Tony
 
#18 ·
One thing I have noticed, at least according to my ears, is that the bass setting is very touchy. At the mark where it sounds "okay" there's not enough bass. But when I turn it up just one increment then I have too much.

Then again, I'm one of those who always has a dedicated bass knob on my dash to control the sub level and I'm constantly turning it up and down depending on the song. In fact, the closer the bass knob is to my right hand where it rests on the shifter the better.

I've ordered a JL Audio HD600/4 amp, and I already have the HD-RLC bass controller to go with it. I also have all the wiring I need to do the job. The only thing I'm waiting for is the official release of the LCQ-1.

Tony
 
#19 ·
Ok, so I'm not crazy...

I'm going through the same thing with my bass settings. I've only had the car for a few days, but I'm used to the high end system I had in my last car.

IMO, the factory system will sound like an awesome factory system to 75% of the people out there. Unfortunatly I'm in the other 25%.

I'm already looking into ways to refit a 10" sub into the OEM box.

(please don't ask my wife about the crazy part)
 
#21 ·
Man I'm really hoping the system is good enough where I won't be annoyed listening to it. I've put a system in every car I've had so far and I was really hoping that this sony system would be just good enough where I would be ok with leaving it where it is. The whole point of ordering this car was to get it exactly how I wanted it. Plus I figured I rarely listen to music loud any more so power wasn't an issue. Just hoping for "acceptable" accuracy. Guess we'll see in about a month when the car comes in...
 
#23 ·
I finally got a chance to do some measuring. The existing subwoofer box has .37 cu. ft. of sealed air space. So the existing box is not large enough to accommodate a 10" sub even though one would physically fit. I can make a box fit into the factory spot that will have .6 cu. ft. with a top mounting depth of 3.125" to accommodate most shallow mount 10” subs.

I just don’t know if all the work will be worth adding it into the factory system. So if this is gonna happen, I need to start looking into RMS ratings, signal processors, mono amps, capacitors… Oh crap, here we go again!!
 
#26 ·
The door speakers are 6.5". Not sure what the tweeters are, I didn't measure them. But if you look on JL Audio's website for the tweeters that come with the ZR-650csi set, the dimensions are pretty close. Not much bigger than 1" I would guess.

Tony
 
#27 ·
Tony,

Quick question.. How do you go about removing the door panel? I have removed the tork screw on the side of the door, behind the reflector, the one in the middle of the door release lever and I have removed to plastic trim piece connected to the window controls.. Do the control's themselves need to be removed to access anything else? if So how Do I remove it? if not what else am I missing to be able to remove the panel? Thanks in Advance!
 
#28 ·
I'm interested in knowing if there are any precautions when removing the door panels as well. Anything to watch for so you don't break anything? Clips, etc..? Also, don't know if you posted or not. But did you happen to catch the max mounting depth allowed? Looking on putting in some RF Power Series and need some room! [thumb]
 
#30 ·
Just installed F+R speakers in mine... It's pretty straight forward.

I found these instructions on another forum post. Reprinted here for permanence.

Front doors:
1. Use pick to remove screw cap cover behind door handle.
2. Unscrew (1) T-20 torx behind screw cap just removed.
3. Use PRT to unclip side trim around window switch panel.
4. Unplug window switch panel and remove.
5. Unscrew (2) T-20 torx from behind the panel just removed.
6. Unscrew (1) T-20 torx located on the side of the door panel.
7. Use PRT to unclip red reflector lens.
8. Unscrew (1) T-20 torx from behind the panel just removed.
9. Use PRT to unclip door panel, unplug and remove.
10. Unscrew (3) T-27 torx securing the speaker, unplug and
remove.

Rear Doors:
1. Use pick to remove screw cap cover behind door handle.
2. Unscrew (1) T-20 torx behind screw cap just removed.
3. Use PRT to unclip window switch panel, unplug and remove.
4. Unscrew (2) T-2 0 tor x behi nd th e panel just removed.
5. Use PRT to unclip the door panel, unplug and remove.
6. Unscrew (3) 7mm bolts securing the speaker, unplug and
remove.

Kickers in the front... match the door paint. ;)

 
#37 · (Edited)
I finally got around to doing the passenger door and took a whole bunch more pics. Sorry for the delay in answering everyone's questions about the door panels. This should fix that!

I began by removing the tweeter pod. There's a couple of plastic clips holding it to the door and the entire assembly can then be removed. The other side of the assembly (to the right of the tweeter) is held onto the door panel with some hooks but I found it easy to jiggle around until I was able pull it straight away from the door.


Here's the back side of the tweeter pod assembly and where the clips attach to the door:


I removed the trim below the door controls/handle, starting from the front and working my way back. It then pulls forward and come out very easily.


The control model is removed in opposite order. I pried the rear end up and slid it backwards to remove it.


There's two torx screws behind it that need to come out. (All the door screws are T-25 torx bit.)


This little panel on the edge of the door needs to come off and there's another torx screw behind it (the screw should be silver, not black as shown).


The reflector comes off by prying the front edge up and then pushing it backwards. There's another screw underneath.


I found this to be the most difficult part of the panel removal process, mostly because I wasn't sure how to get this little sucker off to get to the screw underneath. What I eventually learned is that by pressing the front of the cover (where the red circle is) it partially raises the opposite end (red arrow). It's not exactly easy, but once I was able to get the other end to raise up enough I got the tip of a knife under there and pried it off. Definitely trial and error my first time. Much easier once I figured it out.
 
#38 ·
I used this tool to pry the door panel away from the door. This is 1 of 6 plastic clips that hold the panel to the door.


Here's the location of the 6 clips as seen on the rear of the door panel:


And here's the holes they snap into in the door:


Once all 6 snaps are pulled free the panel should be able to be pulled away from the door. But first this plug behind the panel needs to be disconnected:


Also, This is the door lever as seen from behind the door panel. The small connector (yellow arrow) needs to be disconnected. The red arrows are pointing to some hooks that need to pushed in so you can pull the entire lever assembly out. I just left it dangling against the door panel as it wasn't in my way.
 
#39 ·
Here's a closer look at the tweeter pod assembly. It comes apart into 2 pieces.


The Sony mid mounted to the door:


The stock mounting ring. I did not re-use it.


The Scosche mounting ring I used:


JL provided a cardboard ring I used to trace along the inside so I could cut out the mounting hole for the new JL 6.5 mid.


Here's the ring after I enlarged the mounting hole:
 
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