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How to remove 2008 Ford Focus Radio

337K views 94 replies 67 participants last post by  MADMIKE2017 
#1 ·
I made a post in an earlier thread that I successfully was able to remove the radio unit in my 2008 Ford Focus and some people wanted to see pictures on how I did this. If you've seen the 2008 Focus's dash unit you know it looks pretty intimidating to remove. After playing around a bit I was able to remove it with no special "DIN tools." The only thing you'll need is a flathead screwdriver, a 7mm ratchet wrench, and a little bit of carefulness and patience.


1) You want to start off by pulling the e-brake all the way up as far as you can. I also found it helps to put the key in the ignition (you don't need to start it) and put your automatic transmission into D or L. This will just make it easier when you pull off the plastic that surround it.

2). Open the middle storage compartment and pry the plastic up with a flathead screwdriver (see picture below).



3) Once you remove the center plastic that surrounds the e-brake and shift stick you need to remove the 2 screws that secure the bottom of the radio unit into place (please see the below picture).



4) Using a flathead screwdriver pry the plastic plate on the passenger side (where the airbag is located). This won't come all the way off, as there's a screw keeping it from doing so. You should be able to to get it off enough to be able to remove the radio.



5) Remove the two screws holding the plastic that surrounds the steering wheel.



6) Lower the steering wheel all the way and remove this plastic.



7) Remove the vents above the top of the radio dash unit.



8) Remove the two screws holding the radio in place.



9) Starting from the bottom begin to pull the dash unit out.





I hope this helps for anyone who wants to try this. I apologize for not knowing technical words for things or for my lack of explanations. I hope the pictures speak pretty much for themselves. Good luck!
 
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#67 ·
i would honestly try to find the power wire that goes to the LCD screen up on the dash and run that power wire to the radio that way it will turn on with the AUX position and work like it did before you put the new radio in.....also i would buy a test light they come in handy for stuff like this
 
#69 · (Edited)
I got to make a quick response here (I have just spent a few hours working on a new navigation system for my 2011 SEL w/Sync (not the sony GPS touch screen radio)

OMG the radio inputs are Data Bus two wires you need are the
red/white 12+ hot
the Black GRD (ground to that bolt thats on the left side)
THERE IS NO ACC WIRE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
This vehicle uses the can data network for accessory turn on.
You can find a Acc wire at the steering column its purple and green. Works awesome.

DONT BUY ALL THESE ADAPTER'S FOR YOUR RADIO FOR ((($30-$60-$90-$150))) WASTE OF MONEY.
The only adapter you might want is the steering wheel adapter (only if your new radio can hook up to that too))

all the rest
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Brown
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Violet
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Ora
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Green
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown/White
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Blue

Also Ive been working on finding the Dimmer wire (Theres not one of those either) Ill post when I find out that colored wire and post it.


I hope this helps. it took me awhile but I wanted to share how to save money.
James
 
#71 ·
I apologize in advance for bringing an old thread back from the dead. In picture 3 it shows the 12V sockets. My right side one had the retaining ring break off and push the socket into the area behind it completely and I can't get to it. Is there a way to get to this without going through the full disassembly shown or do I have to nearly remove the whole stereo to get to that part to fix it?
 
#72 ·
I just replaced the stock radio for an aftermarket and let me tell you it was very interesting! I paid about $30 for the dash kit, $9 for the wiring harness and $5 for the antena. I had not clue what I was about to get myself into! I wired up my harness and double checked everything twice. Once the wires were all crimped up I plugged the radio in and got nothing. So confused I relooked over everything and thought I may have gotten the wrong harness. I looked and looked and looked online to find a website to backtrack the correct harness and finally found that Amazon had one. After trying to diagnose why the radio wasn't turning on, it came down to the red ground cable goes to absolutely no where on the harnesses. So the only way to wire it up to work is to run both wires to the fuse box in the engine compartment or you can do what I did which is ran it to an excisting rocker switch I had for under dash LED lights! None of the companys that sell the harness seem to put a warning or discloser about the non working/excisting positive (red) wire not working off the harness! After all the confusion and aggravation I finally have the radio up and running and its a huge difference! Hopefully nobody else runs into the same problem I did! _Brandon (2008 Ford Focus SE)
 
#73 ·
this is the same issue we are all going to have because the remote power/ignition switched 12v is on another harness the factory radio uses 2 separate harness one for the audio and such and the other for the display on the dash. i believe it uses that as its switched power source i used a fuse inside the cab i cannot remember which one but i know its on the far left corner and i used a fuse extension with wire attached know it works perfectly with the way the radio is supposed to run factory or aftermarket. im not sure about your antenna tho i didn't have to use one but im sure thats due to the aftermarket radio
 
#75 ·
Heya. I stumbled on this thread hoping someone had figured out a solution or the LCD display on top. Did not find an answer for that but thought I would add that when I put in subs, I found a switched wire that I'm assuming is for factory sub on the passenger side by the rear speakers. It works fine for a remote amp turn on smothered no need for the add a fuse junk.i also saw someone looking for variable voltage. Probe around on the wires going to the bottom plastic filler panel at the bottom left of the dash kit. I found a wire that's tied into the dimmer around there. This is an 08 base model coupe.
 
#78 ·
I have a 08 Ford Focus ses coupe, with sync, I want to put in a touch screen aftermarket if I can but never messed with something like this.. I'm used to jus taking out the old stock radio not the entire dash... Unless really needed to. So I need some help. One, I obviously I need a new dash kit to fit the radio (hoping they have a double din kit). Two I need a new harness but that's what's confusing me.. What do I do with sync and the top screen?? Cuz my top screen doesn't even show the temp like I see alot of other focus's, same year as mine have the temp shown.... so some help and maybe a video that I can't find to save my life would help
 
#79 ·
If you really want to retain the factory Sync system, you'll need Metra 99-5816 kit which is both single din and double din. Your choice. The harness will depend if you have a factory amplified audio system. If you have a factory amp, you'll need Metra ADFD01 harness AND the ADBOX2. If you don't have a factory amp, you'll need the ADFD01 harness AND the ADBOX1. Now then, Metra supposedly has the ADFD100 bundle which is suppose to be an all in one solution for any 08 Focus regardless of what you have equipped. But I see it has that stupid separate LCD screen. I've installed one of those before and IT SUCKED. It worked maybe 25% of the time and even then it was hokey and cheesy. You might give Metra a call and ask them what they recommend.

With that said, your new double-din will come with hands free bluetooth and, depending on which one you buy, it may also have voice control to switch sources, etc. So screw all the special interfaces, separate displays, and expensive harnesses. Wire you isht up with a $20 Ford harness and to hell with Sync. Which head unit were you looking at buying? Check out the Pioneer 4100NEX.
 
#82 ·
Installing a double din head unit in my son's 2008 Focus SE. We have the Metra kit, but the harness doesn't work. The 12v ignition switched wire mates into a blank spot on the Ford harness.
Like everyone else I have read online, I am having trouble finding a 12v accessory wire that I can run it to behind the dash. Does Anyone have a wire color and location that they can direct me to?
 
#83 ·
Technically, you should have used Metra XSVI-5520-NAV. As you found out, there's no ignition source behind the factory head unit. The factory radio turns on/off via a data signal on the CANBUS. The XSVI-5520-NAV can read this data and convert it into a +12V ignition source you can use. Additionally, it keeps the retained accessory power feature working and gives you outputs you'd use for double-din touchscreens/Navi such as parking brake status, reverse trigger and vehicle speed sense. It also comes prewired for the steering wheel control retention module (ASWC-1). Which is darn nice if you're trying to keep factory steering wheel controls working.

Yes, you can use the cheapy harness. But you'll have to find your own ignition source and you'll lose the features discussed above. If it were me, I'd just go right to the key cylinder. Should be brown/yellow. Make sure you put a small fuse inline. Last thing you need is for the wire you run to get pinched/chaff and short to something blowing the main ignition fuse in the car.....making that car dead in the water and leaving your son stranded somewhere. 3A is more than enough.
 
#88 ·
Alright guys i have a couple questions. Im gonna try to put an aftermarket radio into my car. Taking it apart seems easy enough to do. But the things that are confusing me are the wiring harness for the stock radio to an aftermarket radio. And the rest of the stuff on the kit itself. Do i just take everything out of the old kit and put it onto the new one? I am currently running a loc from my rear speakers to my amp and sub but im getting really bored of the stock radio. And im tired of having to remember to turn my amp off everytime i get out of my car. I was to lazy to find an accessory with out destroyi g everything to find it
 
#89 · (Edited)
Thank you for this post. Our daughter's original CD player/radio had died and the Ford Dealership told us we'd have to go "aftermarket" for a new one. Over here, nobody seems to do it, or they ask a fortune. Thanks to you, my husband and I dared to try. We ordered the radio, dash panel, and harness kit online. We were so careful not to break anything. It took us 4 hours just to disassemble and get the original dash panel out of the car. It took another 3 hours to install the new BOSS CD-radio in a new OEM dash panel and reinstall it again in the car. Whew! What a job! We learned a lot, things like the can-bus.

We don't understand why Ford made it so hard to change a radio in the Focus 2008. But all tested okay. The new dash and radio look and fit just great. There were fairly good instructions that came with the parts. But we never could have done this job successfully without your photos and comments. Thank you!!!
 
#90 ·
Awesome! Glad you got it all worked out. I've been to Keaau before. Hilo twice. I rented a little vacation cottage in Keaau, I think. I actually proposed to my, now, ex-wife there. LOL Been almost 15 years ago. Time flies....

If anyone else in this thread still needs help, post up. Looks like I missed a couple questions months ago.
 
#91 ·
Wow, small world! (Sorry to hear the marriage dissolved, we wish you both the best going forward.) Our daughter's car is now 8 years old. She's taking very good care of it, and hopes for it to last for many years more. We like and try to fix things ourselves. So, we'll be visiting this forum often. Thanks again!
 
#92 ·
halp meeeee please

ok , I have an 09 SES factory sync system no amp or sub. I want to retain the stock system and add a Stock sub / amp or a slightly better mono kenwood amp.

I was told just to add a loc and a control wire. But I dont like the idea if it can be done with a pre designed kit(s)

I know next to F/A about stereo systems / wiring so I want to make it as easy as possible ie plug n play.

I have read a bunch of the posts here noticing a few kits from Metra and pac

What wiring kit(s) do i need ?
I may call Metra this morning

Road
 
#93 ·
ok , I have an 09 SES factory sync system no amp or sub. I want to retain the stock system and add a Stock sub / amp or a slightly better mono kenwood amp.

I was told just to add a loc and a control wire. But I dont like the idea if it can be done with a pre designed kit(s)

I know next to F/A about stereo systems / wiring so I want to make it as easy as possible ie plug n play.

I have read a bunch of the posts here noticing a few kits from Metra and pac

What wiring kit(s) do i need ?
I may call Metra this morning

Road
If you're just adding a sub/amp, Metra or PAC will have nothing for you. You don't need any of their products to do this.

As for adding the factory subwoofer, I don't know much about the 09 body style. But if it's like the majority of factory systems, including the 2011+ Sony system, you would also need the stock outboard amplifier, which then requires the appropriate stock head unit. Ie. factory Sony sub--->Factory Sony amplifier--->Factory Sony head unit.

On the aftermarket scene, it's pretty darn easy. You'd only need to tap into one pair of speaker wires. You actually don't even need to cut the wires in two. You just need to splice the insulation back a little bit. As for the control wire, most modern amplifiers are able to be controlled via the DC offset on the factory speaker wires. Meaning, you tap into the speaker wires for audio signal and you also get your turn-on/control signal. No line output converter needed. Again, this depends on the amplifier, but it's very common. Post up what you're going to buy and I'll give it a look over. Then it's just power from the battery and ground to chassis. Done and done.
 
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