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Old 10-12-2012, 10:51 AM   #11
Hmmmmm
 
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Or get the advance trac focus discs. The ones that came on normal foci
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Old 10-12-2012, 06:34 PM   #12
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You could plumb in an adjustable brake bias proportioning valve. They're relatively inexpensive and work well. I'd also strongly recommend sticking with solid rotors to not only reduce your costs, but to improve braking as well.
tell me more about this adjustable brake bias proportioning valve. i have never messed with anything like that and will need lots of info on it. point me to the one that YOU would get and use. how do you install it?

why stick with solid rotors? if i went with just solid rears and left the front stock i would have roughly $150 tied up in rotors and pads since i would have to buy the hawk pads separately. for front and rear both i would be looking at having roughly $200 tied up in rotors and pads with the D&S rotors and while the rotors wont have as much surface area to increase stopping power they will fade virtually none. and im certain that with the addition of the SS lines it will partially make up for the loss of braking power and i also have a feeling that i will still be able to lock up all 4 wheels with ease.

and im not being argumentative to be an ass. i simply like the back and forth. if im wrong, prove me wrong and then i give rep for it LOL

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Or get the advance trac focus discs. The ones that came on normal foci
if this is a standard disk i dont really want to run it. i got a taste of brake fade up at dragon's tail the last time i went up and i did NOT like it at all. i am fighting brake fade tooth and nail. at some point i am going to have this car on the track, really putting the beans to it and i will not have brake fade when i get there.
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Old 10-12-2012, 07:20 PM   #13
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If I were you I'd keep the drum brakes in back and do this a step at a time. I think the rear drums provide much better initial bite than a complete SVT package, I've driven both extensively. They're a pain in the ass to replace components but they provide for better overall braking than an SVT setup.

I don't know what to blame on my car, but it's braking kind of sucks and always has. No initial bite to speak off. For some reason I can't explain it only does around 15" vacuum at idle (versus the oft mentioned 18") and this is directly proportional to what the brake booster gets at speed, so that may be my problem. I've also never replaced brake fluid and that could help (still only 74K miles). I also don't really believe braided stainless lines contribute much to brake feel, all factory lines are steel braided inside the rubber and I think the stainless brake lines are generally more for aesthetics.

SVT spec brakes are still prone to noticeable fade with hard use, I cooked the shit out of my brakes on some rural WI hill roads about a month ago when I had new rotors and pads already on order and didn't care.

EDIT: wrote this before I saw how much you hate rear drums. I say learn to love them, they really stop a car well.
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Old 10-12-2012, 07:27 PM   #14
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The benefits of solid rotors over drilled and slotted rotors has been discussed dozens and dozens of times on this and just about every other automotive forum.

For street use drilled and/or slotted rotors have very limited if any benefit. A solid rotor has more swept area and heats far more evenly making it more efficient. Solid rotors do not self destruct like drilled ones are known to do. Drilled rotors are basically antiquated technology and are only used on a limited number of cars that have "huge" swept area where venting of water vapor becomes important. These (BMW, Porsche, MB, etc) rotors have the holes "cast" in them (not drilled) and every hole is chamfered to prevent spiderweb cracking (a common occurrence on "drilled" rotors). As you can expect these also cost a small fortune.

Slotted rotors have a use on the track where the knife like edges are used to clean glazed pads. In general, if your pads are glazing to the point that you need slotted rotors, you're probably are using the wrong friction material (pad) compounds.

You'll find a brake proportioning valve on the majority of race cars used on the track. It's used to fine tune the front/rear braking bias for a particular track just as the car's suspension will be tuned for that same track. It's a simple devise but requires some expertise with regards to installation. It is essentially spiced into existing brake lines. I do not have a particular favorite other than I preferred a dial one versus a lever one (it's personal preference as one is not better than the other). Summit Racing is one of many has a broad selection and reasonable prices (Jeg's is good as well). The dial ones can be mounted under the hood a little easier than the lever ones. In a race car it's usually mounted in the car (dash or next to the seat) where the driver can make on the fly adjustments when needed.
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Old 10-12-2012, 11:25 PM   #15
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The advance trac focus and svt focus use the same rear disc pads. So it won't ruin your brake bias. This can become untrue if you put an aggressive pad in the back and non aggressive pad in the front. Also, the svt fronts and 05-07 front brakes use the same pads. The svt brake are better because they are larger and able to soak up more heat, so they will last a little longer.
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Old 10-13-2012, 07:55 AM   #16
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im curious about this self destructing drilled and slotted rotor. i have a SVT and i know what the stock brakes on those feel like and they go away pretty quickly under heavy use. have any of you had a D&S rotor self destruct before? personally? because im just not convinced. i have heard of them self destructing when people over tighten wheels causing the rotors to warp in which case they self destruct shortly after but that is due to carelessness, not a manufacturing defect.
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Old 10-13-2012, 10:24 AM   #17
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im curious about this self destructing drilled and slotted rotor. i have a SVT and i know what the stock brakes on those feel like and they go away pretty quickly under heavy use. have any of you had a D&S rotor self destruct before? personally? because im just not convinced. i have heard of them self destructing when people over tighten wheels causing the rotors to warp in which case they self destruct shortly after but that is due to carelessness, not a manufacturing defect.
I could see it w/ improper poor steel= chineese steel.
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Old 10-13-2012, 04:08 PM   #18
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then what is a good rotor manufacturer that doesnt use crap steel?
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Old 10-13-2012, 05:23 PM   #19
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then what is a good rotor manufacturer that doesnt use crap steel?
Stop tech, Disc Italia, Hawk, ebc there are some out there. Just be aware of the cheap crap.
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Old 10-29-2012, 08:10 AM   #20
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i went with EBC slotted rotors and yellowstuff pads and russel stainless lines. i now have SVT brakes in the front AND the rear. grand total was $500. HA! running regular autozone brake fluid ATM but the next time i put fresh pads on the car and before i track the car i will be changing to ATE super blue. much higher boiling point fluid and its BLUE!!!

i am very pleased with these brakes. i did 2 full on panic stops from 100mph back to back and they are WAY better than factory. the first stop was a bit scarey because the brakes felt like they didnt really start to grab good until i had been laying on them for a full second or two but the second time i did it after having them good and heated up from the first time they snagged right away. this is the first time ive driven a car that the brakes faded IN to become better the hotter you get them. i LOVE these brakes. it was un nerving how big the difference was hot and cold but even cold they are way better than stock. definitely a good investment and i will be much more confident now if i decide to track this car any time in the near future.

now i just gotta replace the ball joints in the front again. those suckers are DONE in the front.
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