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Old 07-29-2012, 12:04 AM   #1
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Installing spring onto strut. How to tighten top bolt?

Hey guys, I'm installing my springs on the strut and have question about torquing the front bolt on. I got it on pretty and it just seems to want to keep going. Should I be doing this with the strut on the car? Im trying to do it off the car right now.

Here's where I'm at




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Old 07-29-2012, 12:07 AM   #2
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it should eventually stop. lol not saying just keep going but your best bet is to keep going. hopefully nothing is broken.
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Old 07-29-2012, 12:23 AM   #3
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Put it on the car. Put the 3 smaller nuts on and get it tightened down to the knuckle. Then you simply put weight on the car and tighten away.

You could also use a friend to hold it and use an impact drill.
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Old 07-29-2012, 12:39 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickgt40 View Post
Put it on the car. Put the 3 smaller nuts on and get it tightened down to the knuckle. Then you simply put weight on the car and tighten away.

You could also use a friend to hold it and use an impact drill.
Cool. Thanks!

Also have a question. I'm looking at the rear springs and can't tell which way they have to be installing. They look the same on both ends.

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Old 07-29-2012, 12:51 AM   #5
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If there's writing on it, I think it's set up so that the writing is right side up.

Otherwise I don't think it will make a difference.
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Old 07-29-2012, 12:53 AM   #6
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Quote:
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If there's writing on it, I think it's set up so that the writing is right side up.

Otherwise I don't think it will make a difference.
I was thinking the same thing but I know that I installed my front springs the right way onto the strut and the writing is upside down
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Old 07-29-2012, 12:59 AM   #7
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As far as the struts are concerned. Go until it stops. But be careful to see if the shaft of the strut isn't spinning which maybe the reason why it seems like it going forever. If it is spinning your going to have to hold it somehow. Please be careful not to damage the shaft as this can damage the seals in the strut. Recommend grabbing as high up as possible instead of at the base.

As far as the rear springs. The rule of thumb I use is lettering, if there is any, so you can read it. You know words not upside down. If not pay attention how the old springs came out, was the coil windings closer on the top or bottom because as you can see one side has windings close the other side has windings spread apart, then just install same way.
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Old 07-29-2012, 01:02 AM   #8
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Sounds good. Thanks.
I made sure it wasn't spinning by putting a vice grip on the top of the shaft while tightening the but. I'll try to keep going untill it torques down
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Old 07-29-2012, 08:06 AM   #9
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I would assume that the flats(square section) on the top of the shaft are there to hold it while tightening the nut. Use an offset box end wrench on the nut and use an appropriate sized wrench or adjustable to hold the flats.

Likely if you stay close to the top of the shaft with vise grips the seal will never see the area which you will inevitiable damage. However it's hard to say. One large pot hole or hitting a curb could send the strut to full compression and it will only take one stroke past that damage and the seal is done. Also, an even less likely situation for a road car is that the damage could create a stress riser and eventually create a crack. A type of situation that can occur with any stressed piece of metal. Considering a strut carries the entire upper load with the absence of an upper a arm and there is a large distance for torquing on the shaft not out of the realm of possibilities.

Also, it will look completely hack with vise grips marks all over the shaft.
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Old 07-29-2012, 10:43 AM   #10
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O duh. I forgot about that. I was half asleep when I read. I think you need to use a 6mm(it might be smaller but I can't remember) wrench and an 18 or 19mm. Use the open end on the nut and then whatever end(which the closed should work) with the small wrench to hold what the nut is spinning on in place
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