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Old 07-23-2012, 01:16 PM   #1
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Setting design ride height

Any ideas on setting said height on lowered motors? ( rear suspension) cheers guys!


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Old 07-24-2012, 03:58 AM   #2
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No one?
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Old 07-24-2012, 05:02 PM   #3
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What do you mean by "design ride height" and "lowered motors"? Ride height on U.S. cars is not an adjustable perimeter unless it has aftermarket height adjustable coilover dampers (shocks and stuts).
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Old 07-24-2012, 08:50 PM   #4
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It's a term used to set the bushings neutral. If you tighten the bushings with say car jacked up and suspension hanging in air, then the bushings are under a preload in one direction when the full car weight is dropped on them. They can respond to twist in one direction much easier than the other since they are already pretwisted in one direction. It can tear the bushings up very quickly. Ford has come up with a number as far as the distance from ground to bottom of car, you do the same thing by simply leaving all bushing attaching bolts loose, let the car down to settle its' weight on springs and tighten them then. Then they can flex equally in both directions and last longer. Of course, getting under a car lowered all the way down can be impossible. Need car on a rack to do it.

In short, the bushings are unloaded either way and can give full compliance both ways if they are tightened at the 'ride height'. On a lowered car simply tighten them at a lower body height. Generally again when the car is totally at rest and weight on springs.

Ride height=car height at a smooth cruise on dead level surface. The suspension is in the center of its' travel then. Or better be.
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Old 07-25-2012, 03:16 AM   #5
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Ahh nice one just trying to check that I did it right when I set up the back end, made up a spacer based on when the car is static after the springs were installed. I then took springs out used a jack to raise each arm independently to the height of the spacer and then torqued up the bolts! Thanks peeps
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Old 07-25-2012, 09:39 AM   #6
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I agree that a suspension should never be torqued while drooping and must always be done with the full weight of the car on it (done on ramps etc.). I have just never heard the terms as used by the OP to explain it. The more commonly used terms for when a suspension is improperly torqued (while drooping) is that it is "bound" or more specifically, the bushings "bind" themselves as the car is lowered. But its just semantics after all.

Even in the shop manual the term "ride height" is not used. "Ground clearance" may be the same, but as we know it is variable based on the condition of the car, tires, wheels, etc. Even the shop manual gives ranges for it. And yes, the manual also has dozen and dozens of additional suspension geometry angles, distances, etc. I still don't know what context "lowered motors" was being used. Is it slang (used by our friend across the pond) for a lowered car?
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Old 07-25-2012, 10:53 AM   #7
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Hi, got the term from my Haynes Manuel, for want of a better term lol
It was just that Haynes don't mention lowered cars so I was in need of clarification on the subject It just gives a "design height setting" on standard springs of 113 mm top to bottom of spring . And yes sorry for the use of colloquialisms , thanks again
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Old 07-25-2012, 11:14 AM   #8
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Edit from the lower arm to top spring mount not top to bottom of spring
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Old 07-25-2012, 08:20 PM   #9
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That's the whole idea of lowering a car. When you install a shorter spring, the distance between the spring mounts (counting the lower one as part of the control arm) will get smaller. So based on 111mm, if you do a 1 inch (25.4mm) drop the distance between the spring seats will be 111-25.4 or 85.4mm. That's why shorter firmer shocks become important. The shorter piston shaft and shock body gets some suspension travel back thats lost from the lowering, otherwise you'd be riding on the bump stops more often. That isn't good for optimum handling or the structural integrity of the car.
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Old 07-26-2012, 01:06 PM   #10
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Absolutely. Once you start moving the suspension working space around, other things have to change to match it.

The term referred to is relatively new, I've been doing it for 40 years. I just called it neutralling the bushings. Was wondering when Ford would ever get around to the issue, just tightening those bushings up anywhere you want can wreck parts early and maybe even make for bad handling.
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