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SkyPilot 05-14-2009 03:03 AM

HOW-TO Replacing Rear Upper Camber Arms, and camber bolts.
HOW-TO Replacing Rear Upper Camber Arms, and camber bolts.

Warning: Neither Focus Fanatics nor its Members may be held responsible for the outcome of performing such a modification to ones car(Ford Focus). Such acts are performed at ones own risk, and sole responsibility must be assumed. This may include, but not limited to, the voiding of Ford vehicles factory warranty.

I was informed by the Dealer (came highly recommended by focus owners in AZ) that in order for a proper alignment in the rear that I needed rear upper camber arms, not just camber bolts, which in fact they were right. I have a Roush stage 2 Suspension, which dropped the car 1.75” but I think once everything settled it was more like 2. The arms are a little on the pricy side, around $200 but allows for more adjustment and a proper alignment.

So onto the write up.

What you need:
New Upper Camber Arms, mine were SPC
Camber Bolts. Mine were ebiach, but the instructions included said SPC
Floor Jack
Jack Stands
Air compressor
Impact sockets
Socket extensions.

Always put safety first; using jackstands, eye protection, and all other required safety measures. It is also recommended to have supervision whenever possible, and take the necessary steps to make a safe and successful install, and watch out for the creeper wheels!!!!

First of course lift the car and support with jack stands; the pinch weld is fine for this. And remove wheels.
Use the Jack and place it under the lower control arm.
These are the bolts you need to remove.

The upper bolt is hard to reach, you will need extensions to get to the bolt, the left side is above the exhaust, and the right is located near the fuel lines.
First remove the lower bolt with a 15mm socket and impact (if available) or a breaker bar should work.
you may need to tap the bolt out the rest of the way
Now for the top bolt you will need extensions for these I think mine ended up being 18”
The stock arm should just fall out now, if you are not installing camber bolts, DO NOT DO THIS NEXT STEP!
The old nut needs to be removed but it is welded in place, we used a right angle grinder, for this.

This nut that has to go
And grinding
After you get the nut off clean up the welds.
Now compare you new arms with the old, I painted my ford blue because I was bored the day they arrived, you can't even see them when installed.
Now make your new adjustable arms the same length as the stock, makes sure BOTH nuts are fully screwed into the arm, then twist the big nut to adjust the length, once it is at the desired length twist the small nut back town to the big one.
And then tighten this bolt on the arm
Now its time to install the arm. Place the arm in location and install the top bolt first, the stock bolt is fine for this.
No if installing camber bolts follow these directions, if not replace the stock lower bolt and your done!

Camber bolt installation,
Insert bolt, make sure the lobe on the bolt is full seated and the tab on the washer is seated in the hole.
The washer with tab:
Insert bolt:
And torque to 55ft/lbs and your done

It took 2 guys with power tools, less than 2 hours to install with pictures. This was a pretty straightforward install, but a good alignment is REQUIRED after this install.

You do not need to install the Camber Bolts with the Arm, i had the bolts so installed them and included them in this write up.

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Blackcatn2o 05-14-2009 06:48 AM

The factor nut that was welded on the trailing are are pretty easy to brack off useing a breacker bar.

BLRich1 05-14-2009 10:12 AM

just out of curiosity, why did you install the adjustable arms and the adjustable bolts? the arm will provide plenty of adjustment its self in either direction.

SkyPilot 05-14-2009 01:58 PM


Originally Posted by BLRich1 (Post 2745327)
just out of curiosity, why did you install the adjustable arms and the adjustable bolts? the arm will provide plenty of adjustment its self in either direction.

because i had aready bought the bolts, and wanted to include them in the write up. the alignment tech actually used the bolts for a really fine adjustment he told me, of like a .1 or .2 degrees of adjustment

BLRich1 05-14-2009 03:05 PM

fair enough

good write up BTW

SkyPilot 05-14-2009 03:09 PM

thanks man

ShamrockSVT 05-18-2009 10:50 PM

Great Job!

Eklipse113 05-19-2009 12:58 AM

so by dropping your car you're generally going to want to put these things on to prevent camber wear right?

goinloco1 05-19-2009 03:42 AM

On dropping any of my 3 foci, I've never had a need for more than camber bolts. They allow plenty of adjustment if installed right, even at a 2" drop.
There are a couple things I notice you didn't say anything about when installing the bolts. First would be the tab on the washer needs to face toward the middle of the car. this allowsthe bolt to be moved toward the outside of the car therefore tilting the camber out. If faced to the outside it moves the bolt inward.
once faced right the bolt can be used to adjust the camber in or out as was intended.
With the washer tab facing the wrong direction you won't get the necessary adjustment needed.
Also, tac the washer when things are tightened up so it can't move and cause alignment changes.

goinloco1 05-19-2009 03:46 AM

Oh, and if you do need more theres a cheaper way that is actually a tad better. Remove the lower hub bolt from the arm and slot the holes toward the center of the car about 1/4 to 3/8 inch. this also allows for adjustment of the camber. Tack these washers also when set.
Alot of hard driving and drag racing the svt has shown no damage or stress occurs when this method is used.

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