Alright I found a shop here in S.L.C. that does quite the extensive good stuff. So were gonna (or) I`m thinkin knife edge the crank get a light weight fly then bolt on a clutch to the new motor....Lets talk about back cutting the valves for the head etc...

Sorry to make this a forced induction he is talking about the vortec as well..Instead of turbo.. As well as an after cooler..

Alright I know your out there right now sooo lets be real. The jrsc sucked...I had to try it cuz I always wanted a charger it was cheap...OK IT WAS CHEAP...After I took it off I found Not much gain with other bolt ons (diff cams etc) So the difference was there but little..As I posted before I bought a motor from the yard and its now at the point of going back toghter..I am still quite unfamiliar with four cyl power production so help me here (if you can)..On the most driveable highest yeald motor that I cannot blow..I also know this is a oxymoron...

Explain to me your plan so I can get a good read on what you want to do?

Sorry for chasin you down but we are not on at the same time to much..Alright I`m takin my head-Milled to 10.25..with large valves--springs rets--polised etc..(calif mustang built) thinkin with rods and bolts for bottom end...And leaving that there as far as pistons I haven`t decided. I was going to go turbo BUT Now I have my dought again..Just a little Input might help..Do you want to go into it here or p.m. Also gonna knife the crank..

Ok first off, why that CR? What springs? What retainers?

Why no pistons?

Why knife edge the crank and where are you getting this engine machining lingo?

Well first off I know that higher compression and forced induction are friends if you keep it cool..Second the springs are crane the rets are the same..as far as why CUZ pistons I was thinking about ceramics because I have not built a motor with them yet..The cost a far as durability I believe is good...Bit I`m not sure..As for end results I`m lookin at about 220-230whp all year driving ability..With a long lasting car.

Ceramic what?

Why crane springs and retainers?

How much $ you have to work with for the engine build up?

Pistons Dude come on now..Pistons do you know what they are?

Well I have about 5-7

Ceramic pistons? Show me ceramic pistons for the zetec engine?

Is that $ 5-7k total or after the supercharger?

Sorry diff. post but I like crane...Long time round and very well known about racing..

Get to the point here. Can you help me or not? With the charger I know and the after cooler its gonna be about 5.6--You do the math--Leaves me a bit to build up the internals don`t ya think....Also thats what I`m looking for ceramic pistons--I do not know if there out there or if I realy need to go this route I just have not built a motor yet with these. Sorry this would also include back cutting the valves for a bit more..

Dude why do you want ceramic pistons, what do you think they are going to do for you?

What is 5.6 you mean $ 5,600 for the supercharger?

Btw the crane springs and retainers aren't the best for a setup like this.

That was my point..Why or why not? ceramic is a great way to go for all around durability. I could go turbo later-Or charged now, I am just wondering the build you might think is the strongest for the bottom end..Just don`t run me around ..So what do you feel is the best (set-Up)..Just questions...I already have made my decisions and most purchaces..So help me don`t grill me..Thanks in advance.

Well you want to know what parts and I am telling you crane valvetrain is not the best.

The ceramic piston thing is not gonna happen.

I cannot advise you if I don't know how much you have cashwise.

Anyway,

Crower or Manley billet connecting rods with ARP rod bolts

Essling billet main caps with ARP studs

JE 9.0:1 compression pistons

ARP cylinder head studs

There is alot of machine work to be done with these mods.

Who told you to get a crank knife edged?

Its a simple rotational mass law..This is not my first motor. And as far as I can tell there are no ceramics avail for this unless built to order and thats out of the question. As far as the matching that needs to be done I understand that its a bit ..I already have the arps on the cams and the arps are pretty standerd stuff for any good builder tell me something I my not know. Crowers are my rods of choice and thats also a good old racing name..

Cost wise you would be better off buying one of my short blocks

There is NO such thing as a ceramic piston that i have ever seen for any car if you are going boost you DO NOT want to go 10+ on compression keep it under 10

Pistons are a must and you have to have forged ,Turbo is the only way to go

Tom

Late input but what is the cost of your short block?.. Also what if I would like the spec of the cyl to be 20 over? also decked at .005???

Ceramic pistons and rods? Inertial loads will kill something that is brittle.

i don't think you mean ceramic pistons. i'm guessing you mean ceramic COATED pistons which has been done for quite some time. especially in racing.

Cha-ching...You go kickin..Not only does it reduce wear you can almost go unlimited bore..FOR short periods under high stress.This is the best route.For long term its a bit different.But all the same its costly. I simply wanted to pose a ? about ceramics! But for turbo(tom)I ask a different set of plans for the block. WE can take a 402 and make them a 409 all day..So why not take a 2.0 and make them a 2.5 (A lot in question here )IE: What I don`t know and I have asked before what is the max bore..Before cooling disablement?

You have to understand engine building to understand why you cannot simply make a 2.0 into a 2.5.

Take your 402 analogy, lets assume the 402 is a 6.6 liter. By saying a 2.0 increased to a 2.5, is in effect raising discplacement by 25%. That would make a 6.6L engine into a 8.3L, things just don't work like that.

I did the math once a while back. Overboring a zetec .020" yielded under 2.1L.

As far as ceramic coating pistons goes, you cannot afford it on the budget you have. Even if it was done, its not worth it.

For a street engine, in fact for any zetec, I wouldn't go over a .020 overbore. There is no need to, nor is there much room to remove material.

The 402 is easy to make larger because you have 8Cyl to help make it even larger with

With our engine and it being so small already there isnt much there to work with,With enough money there is a crank out there to make it a 2.3 for 2300.00 (crank only)

My short block is listed here http://www.focus-power.com/view.php?showme=Short_Blocks

Tom

Like tom said the only way to increase displacement on a 2.0 is to stroke it.

Thanks for the info...I still have some research to follow up on.Then I will make my move.

knife edging the crank....wasn't that for making the crank work more efficiently by shedding oil quicker?

There are many reasons for this 1 being weight displacement. 2 rotational mass 3 oil shedding 3 higher revs because of the lower mass.etc.