: Install complete, won't start grrrrrr
12-06-2005, 06:12 PM
Here is the problem: I installed the JRSC, went to start the car, turned the accessories on and off a couple of times, then pushed the clutch in, turned the key and there was a huge spark near the ground and it didn't turn on. I don't hear the starter trying to kick on and I relocated the ground. It's now from the front of the block to the front of the frame. I tried it again and now the spedometer needle and the tach needle don't go through their normal cycle when the car is supposed to turn on. I get get no crank, I'm getting nothing. IT is definately grounded. I'm checking fuses and relays, but I still haven't found anything. Is there anything that anyone knows about what it might doing?
12-06-2005, 07:09 PM
what do you mean the ground is to the front of the frame ?
Do you have - - - - - on the odometer with the key in the ON position not the crank position
What is the PATS light doing ?
12-07-2005, 06:17 AM
Ok, I figured out what was going on. No fuses were blown or anything, like I said before I had help with the install. The top of the starter didn't get connected somehow. The gauges worked and it started. When I hit 4000 RPMs the accelerator shakes really hard and makes a wierd sound. Is this normal? It doesn't seem like my boost is all there either. I have a hose left over that is not connected that looks like it is coming off something with the egr system. I'll have pics later today to try to get this thing running right. Thanks for all the help. Bear with me. I'm still new to this fi thing.
12-07-2005, 10:11 AM
I would double check all wires and vacuum hoses.
*The ground he's talking about that gets relocated is from the new power steering bracket to the front of the block.
Make sure all plugs/connectors from the main wiring harnest on the fuel rail are plugged in
and the wiring harnest on the right to the TPS, IAC and cam sensor.
The install instructions don't mention connecting the alternator wire to battery and the plug and some others are missing too in the instructions.
You should have a vaccum hoses going from the 2 JRSC manifold valves on top to the fuel rail and 2 to the purge valve on the left side of the manifold and one to the PVC and the other to the EGR solenoid(firewall) on the right side of the manifold.
Also, if you got the BBK, make sure to plug the valve on the rear of the manifold or connect a boost gauge to it or it may cause boost/leak issues. This isn't menitoned in the BBK instructions.
You might also want to retighten/check the 4 bolts that mount the SC on the bottom and also the 9 intake manifold bolts.
I just finished up my JRSC+BBK install and the car purrs like stock and has a very smooth power boost when I mash the gas pedal. I'm getting somewhere between 7-9psi.
12-07-2005, 05:57 PM
I can't figure out how to put images in a reply, but I capped off that one vaccum line in the back of the manifold. There was one hose that attached to the bottom of the stock manifold that doesn't seem to have a home. It was the one hose that had a one time use metal clip that the directions said to cut and then said to remove the hose. I capped that off too once i removed the hose.
My accelerator pedal once it hits 1800 rpms and over 4000 rpms vibrates really bad and i hear what sounds to be valve tapping. It doesn't idle as nice and smooth as before either. I tightened all the bolts and there are no leaks.
12-07-2005, 06:01 PM
The only light that stays on is the check engine light. I'm assuming that is because i have the obx header/downpipe installed. I don't actually have a real cat. All of my sensors/vacuum lines are hooked up right. I checked again after reading that reply. Thanks for the help sofar.
12-07-2005, 06:23 PM
That large 1/4 valve on the bottom of the JRSC intake manifold goes to the brake booster line.
It needs to be connected.
12-07-2005, 06:26 PM
The top vacuum hoses should go like this.
Small Purge valve ===> To T ==> goes to intake manifold then EGR Solenoid valve on firewall.
Large Purge valve ==> To T ==> Goes to Fuel rail then ==> intake manifold T then PVC.
I'll try to post some pics later that might help.
If you have a CEL, go to an autoparts store like Autozone and see if they can read the code for you. It's free.
12-07-2005, 06:32 PM
The gauges only sweep the first time you start the car after disconnecting power.
12-07-2005, 07:21 PM
That 1/4 inch hose is connected. There is another one. The hose you are talking about is the two inch hose connecting the hard plastic line from the firewall to the bottom of the intake manifold. This other hose looks like it goes to a line that runs to the front of the engine.
That would explain why they weren't sweeping after that initial time.
12-07-2005, 07:23 PM
That would be appreciated if pics were there. I got a pic of the hose that the instructions said to remove. I just don't know how to post a picture unless I start a new thread.
12-08-2005, 10:04 AM
The small valve directly on the back/rear of the manifold(pointing directly at firewall) is for 2 things.
If you have the standard JRSC kit, it connects to the black box computer.
This causes the black box to turn on your injectors at 100% duty cycle when it detects full boost.
Connects to boost/vac gauge.
If you don't have either connected, plug it.
Sorry I couldn't get you a pic from under the car. but only those 2 hoses/valves need to beconnected and sounds like you got the one to the power brake booster connected so only the small valve needed to be connected/plugged.
Did you check all your wires from the main harnest and the other one on the right side of the injectors.
On main harnest you should have 4.
Gray plug that goes directly under the injectors - not sure what this is ?
On right side of injectors:
Cam sensor to head
IAC to manifold
Also, make sure you have the wire plug and red battery cable on the alternator plugged in.
You might also want to check your fuel/injector rail bolts and makes sure they are secured.
Just make sure it looks and feels like the injectors are fully seated.
Did you check all your vacuum lines on top of the manifold ?
12-08-2005, 10:06 AM
Oh and to post pics, you have to host them at a site like www.photobucket.com and use the tags to link them to a post.
Quote this post and look at how my pic is posted with the tags.
If you use photobucket, they will even provide you with a [img] link/tag.
12-08-2005, 10:16 AM
even thought it cost me.....this is why i had a shop install mine, i was scarred i wouldnt do it right. Hope ya get it running soon, its a blast to drive with it on.
12-08-2005, 04:55 PM
ok, I got out of work today and double checked everything. All of my hoses and all of my sensors are plugged in right. It looks just like yours does. The problem with the accelerator vibrating bad and my car not idling right is because of the throttle body for some reason. When i put the stock tb back on it runs SOOOO much smoother (lost a lot of low end but running smoother). I wasn't a fan of the FC TB to begin with. The holes didn't line up right and i'm sure that I got the right one. I'm running platinum plugs. I need to buy new copper plugs, but there is not a single place around here that sells them, so it looks like i'll go online. I think between that and running a full tank of 93 gasoline might clear up some of the detonation I think i'm having. My car was half full of 87 oct when the kit came in because i didn't know they were sending it out. I put in 3 cans of octane booster and put 93 oct in it to fill it up. I haven't hooked up the boost gauge yet, but i don't think i'm getting all the boost. Thanks for the picture. I'm sure i've hooked it up right now.
12-08-2005, 05:34 PM
Check with your local Ford dealer parts counter and ask for Spark Plug part # AZFS22C
Those are the copper plugs that fit our cars and are 1 step colder.
12-08-2005, 05:38 PM
Did you mount your 65mmTB with the gasket it came with ?
Also, I had to go buy four 6mm (1 1/4 long) bolts because the 1inch ones supplied were to short for the 65mmTB.
Changing your fuel filter is a good thing too if it's been over 15K miles since you last changed it. It pretty easy to do and good for the fuel pump too.
12-08-2005, 06:32 PM
Yes, the gasket was installed and I did have to buy new bolts also. You said 4 bolts??? There is only two places to put them. The problem was that when it's installed correctly my car would idle at 3000 rpms. I couldn't get it down any further.
It's only been about 5000 miles since i changed the fuel filter. I might change it again anyway because I have one at the house. I'm going to have to really fool around with the tps to see I can get it to fit right. I might try to find one at a junk yard and take out the metal sleeve and bore out that hole so I can adjust it so it sits right without my rpms jumping too high.
I'll definately bring that part number to them. I hadn't had a chance yet to look online for it thanks. The ford parts guy I talked to today said that they don't have copper plugs for my car. He also told me that with the supercharger I should be using platinum plugs. I didn't take much stock in what he said at all. I'm not impressed with the ford dealership here.
12-08-2005, 06:57 PM
Does your car start rough? Mines been taking forever to turn over. It idles rougher than it should. I'm thinking that if I can't get these little issues worked out I might take it somewhere to have someone look at it. I'm pretty happy with the work that I did for my first time. I've learned a lot in the last 6 months from these forums. And a lot more knowledge is to be had.
I thought you were talking about the TPS mount bolts when you said 4 bolts. I had to buy them also. My tps bolts were too short. There were two holes that were bigger than the other 4 for the tps mount.
12-08-2005, 09:30 PM
You have a 2003 like I do and I reused the stock TPS bolts on my 65mmTB.
Did you have the 65mm TB before the SC and did it idle fine ?
When I had the TPS mounted on my stock intake manifold, the wires pointed directly to the front or the rear. I originally had it pointing to the rear and I had high idle(about 1100 rpms) and CF told me to flip it 180 and now the wires point toward the front.
When you mount the TPS, you should line up the flat piece to the TPS and then turn like 1/8 a turn to line up the 2 mounting holes. (Click on my WWW homepage link and you can see a picture of it mounted on my stock manifold.)
As far as my car starting, it starts normally and idles normally. It even drives normally unless I mash the gas. When I watch the boost gauge, it doesn't go in to boost unless I mash the gas or start to get a decent load like going up hill.
Do you have the black box tune or the BBK ?
12-08-2005, 09:33 PM
Oh, and I just got a set of Motorcraft Copper plugs, 1 step colder than stock at my local Ford dealer for $15 for a set of 4.
Part # AZFS22C(single) or maybe AZFS22CF4(4 pack)
You can get them from www.Focussport.com too.
Randy/FS and Oscar Jackson Sr. himself recommened the copper plugs I just mentioned for the JRSC application.
12-09-2005, 05:45 AM
When I had the tb on before I installed the s/c, the tps was facing forward and I couldn't get it down under 2500 rpms. After work today, I'm going to try to put it on again. I did have to turn it 1/8 turn. That was the only way it would fit right. I'll just have to fool around with it.
Would the spark plugs make the car not idle right and make the car start hard?
12-09-2005, 09:58 AM
Well, it depends on their condition. If you have $15, I would change them out for the Motorcraft copper plugs I mentioned since you should have them anyway for the SC application. Just call a few Ford dealer's Parts departments and someone should have them.
Just make sure they know you are saying AZFS22C and not ABFS22C because when I first asked, the guy thought I was saying B instead of Z.
The Ford Stock # is 463. This might also help them if they can't seem to locate it in their inventory.
12-09-2005, 10:06 AM
Also, did you torque your manifold bolts and the 4 SC bolts evenly ?
I know you can't get a ratchet style torque wrench on those bolts and I had to use my best "feel" that they were all on tight evenly after I torqued one of them and got a reference of what 16lbs of torque should feel like.
I also rechecked them after driving over 100 miles.
You might also want to make sure the IAC connector on top of the manifold next to the TB is secured and locked on.
You also haven't said if you have the black box on or not.
If you have that wired all wrong, it could cause issues since it connects to the MAF.
12-09-2005, 12:21 PM
oh yeah sorry, I've got the bbk. I tried to torque down the bolts evenly too. I have already rechecked those bolts. It's running pretty smoothly right now. Thanks for the help. I'm going to recheck all the bolts everywhere again.
12-09-2005, 12:31 PM
What fixed the issue ?
12-09-2005, 12:32 PM
Here's a pic of the hoses on the rear and the bottom just incase.
12-09-2005, 03:38 PM
Well I put the stock tb back on and the violent vibration went away. I just put the fc tb back on and it came back again, so i'm not sure what to do. I think I'm going to take it to this place I just found out about down here. Once I put the boost gauge on i'll be able to tell how much boost i'm actually getting. I'll try to put that on tonight and see.
It still takes a while to start and it stalled once at idle. When maintaining speed, it kind of bogs a little until i nail the gas. I'm at a loss and will probably just take it somewhere to have someone look at it. From all the pictures I'm sure that I installed everything right because mine looks exactly the same, so maybe i have some other issues. I'm just afraid of what it might cost to someone look at it and get it running right.
12-09-2005, 06:28 PM
I quite possibly found why I have a rough idle. I was listening from under my car and hear an exhaust leak coming from somewhere before the muffler. Hopefully that is why.
12-10-2005, 06:40 PM
Have you tried changing out the spark plugs yet ?
Bad worn out plugs can do strange things.
12-10-2005, 07:56 PM
Yeah, i just replaced them. I think i've done as much as I can. I'll probably just take it somewhere. There is this shop over here that I heard is pretty good. I'm concerned about the bad idle and the accelerator vibrating between 1800-2000 rpm's and over 4000 rpms. It's a pretty bad vibration. I'm not sure what else to do. I've checked through everything you've told me to check, so thanks!
12-11-2005, 10:23 AM
Did you reset the computer when added the new TB? They way to do that is to disconnect the battery, this should make the gauges sweep if they havent yet. This will tell the computer that more air is coming in so it can fix the air fuel mix through the computer.
Have you tuned it yet? Not spark plug tune, but a tuner from SCT. That may help, but check with that shop first before buying the SCT tuner program.
12-11-2005, 10:28 AM
I had my battery disconnected during the install and i added the tb during the installation. This kit comes with an ecu reflash from Ford Racing. I have not taken it somewhere to get it custom tuned yet.
I've a question.....I just installed my JRSC BBK on my ZX3, and now my car doesnt start. I've checked and rechecked all the connections/sensors/everything, and its all plugged in. When I try to start the car it sounds like its trying to start..but it wont quite turn over. I've got less than a quarter of a tank of gas...so maybe its not getting enough fuel??? I have no freakin clue....any help would be greatly appreciated.
12-13-2005, 05:49 PM
When you crank over the car, did your gauges reset/sweep ?
If you put the ignition in the ACC position, does the fan and radio come on ?
You don't have an aftermarket chip installed do you ?
Did you send in your ECU to be reprogrammed and did they write anything
on the ECU case ?
*Mine had M6066-ZX3BBK written on it.
12-13-2005, 05:53 PM
Items to check:
Make sure all vacuum hoses are connected to the SC.
Look at the drawing in the instructions and make sure all lines are connected.
Make sure the fuel line is connected to the end of the fuel rail.
Make sure the TPS is plugged into the TB and IAC on SC manifold has it's harnest plugged in.
Make sure Cam sensor on on the right side of the engine on the rear is plugged in.
Make sure injectors are fully seated.
Just look at all four and make sure they are evenly seated.
Make sure you reconnected the alternator battery cable and plug(goes on top).
*This isn't mentioned in the instructions.
Make sure plug wires are fully seated on Coil and into the engine.
If every thing seems to be connected properly, remove ECU and make sure you didn't bend any pins.
1. Yes, the gauges did their reset/sweep.
2. Yes, with the ignition in the ACC position, the fan and radio come on.
I dont have an aftermarket chip or anything, and I dont think they wrote anything on my ECU. I'll pull it out and check the pins. All the hoses look fine...but I'll check those again.
12-13-2005, 06:07 PM
I know this sounds like a dumb question but did you make sure to put the main harnest back on the injectors and plug it back in to the main harnest plug by the strut tower ?
Ok I went and rechecked all the hoses...and everything matches the diagram to the T. And I did plug the main harness back in.
12-13-2005, 06:10 PM
Also make sure all the plugs coming from the main harnest are plugged in too.
I beleive there are 4.
Injector pressure regulator
???? - this ones right under the fuel rail on the left side of the engine. It's a gray plug.
Did you check the alternator plug on top ?
Yep, got all 4 of those plugged in. And both of the alternator plugs are plugged in.
12-13-2005, 06:14 PM
Are you using the SVTF Airbox or did you take the MAF that came with the SVTF airbox and install it on your intake ?
12-13-2005, 06:15 PM
Did you use the supplied belt for an AC equipped engine ?
(They sent me 2 belts.)
Does the belt feel tight and not slipping ?
I used the SVT MAF with my HIA SRI, and I used the only belt they sent me, which is the one for the AC equipped Focus. The belt fits nice and snug...theres no slack whatsoever in the belt. And I know theres fuel in the rail because I just popped off the clip and a little fuel came out.
12-13-2005, 06:27 PM
Does the car even attempt to start or just turn over like it's not getting any spark/timing ?
12-13-2005, 06:28 PM
Do you have a boost gauge ?
If not, plug that small fitting on the rear of the manifold that goes to one.
The other one on the rear goes to the bypass valve, which should of already been conntect when you received it.
Yea its attempting to start...but it does sound like it not getting a spark. And I havent installed my boost gauge yet, but I went ahead and plugged the hole.
Its trying to start...because the belt is moving...but it kinda seems like theres no spark.
12-13-2005, 08:19 PM
Check the wire that is connected to top bolt of the starter towards the front of the car. It sits right underneath the other wire that is also connected to the starter. That was one problem that I had. Now it just runs crappy.
Hey Microtonal, is it a bad thing when your car runs better without the TPS hooked up :) And yes I'm taking it somewhere to have someone look at it. I wish i knew someone with the same year focus as I so i can check and see if the tps is just bad.
12-13-2005, 08:19 PM
Did you check the ECU pins and make sure the CPS plug on the right rear side of the engine is plugged in ?
12-13-2005, 08:26 PM
Also check the 2 plugs that go to the coil.
There's one on the front and one on the back.
They both come from the same harnest as the MAF connector.
If you have someone who can help, take one of the plug wires off the spark plug and hold it close to a ground point and see if you see a spark. (You only need to turn the engine over very quickly for this test.)
And Onlyford4me, it's not good to run the car without being connected to the TPS because it provides different voltages to the ECU to let it know the position of the throttle.
When the TPS plug isn't connected, the voltage doesn't change and I think the ECU may 'guess' or go in to some sort of limp/safe mode.
12-13-2005, 08:30 PM
i've gone through all of the plugs and everything. I am taking it to a shop. It's too frustrating and too cold outside to work on it. I just thought it was funny that the car ran better without the tps hooked up. I've checked and rechecked the computer, all plugs, vacuum lines, bolts. The vibration is still there and it takes forever to start in the morning. Time for the professionals to step in.
12-13-2005, 08:34 PM
If I remember, I think you can check the TPS.
If you got an ohm meter, you could put it across the pins on the TPS and see if the resistance changes when you move the TPS shaft because it should.
12-13-2005, 08:37 PM
It's not normal for it to vibrate aggresively like you mentioned.
I have notice that I have to give it a little throttle when the temps get around 30-40 from a cold start ever since I installed the copper plugs but otherwise, my car idles, sounds and runs like stock except when I mash the gas you can hear the SC whine.
My car is ready to go in 30-60 seconds from a cold start in 30-40 degree temps.
Do you have a race header or any other mods that might effect the engine.
12-13-2005, 08:43 PM
I do have headers 4-1, and a fake cat (OBX), and a catback. Would loose bolts in the exhaust cause a REALLY bad vibration and a hard start/idle?
12-13-2005, 08:46 PM
I'll check the TPS tomorrow and all the exhaust bolts.
I've got spark.....and everything is connected. Are there specific fuses I should check? I'm thinking it may be a fuel related problem...since the fuel shutoff is right be the ECU, if by chance I hit the button, do you think that might be part of the problem? Is there anthing else in the fuel system I could check? The fuel rail is in good, as well as the injectors and all the electronics. Is it a possibility that I might have vapor lock?
12-14-2005, 10:01 AM
Well, you could check the fuel pump fuse with is either R12 or F12 in the fuse box under the hood. You can look in the owners manual to be sure.
You could also try disconnecting the battery for 10-15 minutes and try and see if it will start.
Also, when you removed the fuel line from the fuel rail, you didn't disconnect anything from the fuel line did you ?
The fuel line hoses should be in their stock condition.
12-14-2005, 10:03 AM
I doubt loose bolts would cause a hugh vibration or cause your car to take a while to warm up but it's worth a check.
What's your idle when you start the car from a cold start ?
Mine is about 1100-1200 rpms ?
Well I finally fixed it. Turns out the clip at the bottom of the fuel shutoff buttom came loose. Must've been when I took out the ECU. I didnt even notice it because it wasnt completely off, but a friend of mine was feeling around down there, pushed up on the clip, told me to start the car, and she started right up. This thing is freakin awesome though...and she pulls like a bat outta hell!!
Thanks for all your help, microtonal. [thumb]
12-14-2005, 05:21 PM
One thing I should mention is listen for detonation when you go WOT and get full boost.
I had the issue at first but it has gone away.
Just make sure it's not pinging/detonating. It sounds like coins being swirled around your engine when you hear it.
12-14-2005, 05:22 PM
Oh, and one guy had detonation on his JRSC+BBK on the dyno but it cleared up after he installed the 1 step colder 22C copper plugs.
12-14-2005, 05:58 PM
When my car is warm, it jumps up and down slightly, but it sits generally between 1000 and 1200 rpms. Tomorrow I'm getting some time on a lift and am going to tighten every exhaust bolt and check my tps like you mentioned earlier. This will be my last attempt at trying to find the problem before next friday when i'm taking it to get looked at.
12-14-2005, 06:14 PM
After my cars is fully warmed up, which is about 5-7 minutes, my idle is around 800rpms when I'm at a stop light.
12-14-2005, 06:17 PM
Did you happen to use a torque wrench for the 4 bolts that mount the SC ?
16 lbs is what I believe they recommend.
Once you install the lower bracket/brace, you won't be able to put a socket on the bolt right next to the bracket mount.
12-14-2005, 07:51 PM
I realized that when i went to retighten that bolt. It had to come off before I tightened it. I didn't use a torque wrench, I just kind of felt it. I use torque wrenches at my job so I think I have a fairly good idea of what 16lbs is supposed to feel like. My idle stays above 1000 all the time. I'm glad right now because it'll die if it drops down that low. I have the fc tb on again which is why it idles high. It's sitting at 1000-1200 and that's as low as it's gonna go. I have the tps facing forward and everything. I'm wondering if it is my tps sensor. Remember that I said my car ran better without it hooked up. No, I didn't drive it very far like that-it was just an experiment.
12-16-2005, 06:17 PM
You won't believe this! I just went to autozone and had them read my computer. It seems as though I have 21 error messages. 10 of them concerning my idle control sensor. I have misfiring going on and those were a couple of the major ones. It looks as though I was kind of right when it came to the tps sensor. Could my coil be bad? any more suggestions before I bring it somewhere.
Microtonal, I just replied to your message sent on 11-17...sorry so late!!!!!!!!
12-19-2005, 09:59 AM
Did you move the ICV(Idle Control Valve) from the stock manifold and mount it to the top of the JR manifold ?
Is the plug connected to the ICV ?
12-20-2005, 04:40 PM
Yes I did. Actually it went underneath where the tb goes on the compressor. The gasket is in there right because I took it off to check it about a week ago. My car is running better now. I put the ground in the location where they said to in the first place instead of where I THOUGHT it would work right. My check engine light went off. It still doesn't like to idle or start in the morning and the vibration is there the same as before. Three days till it goes to the shop to have someone look at it.
12-20-2005, 05:40 PM
I just sent you a PM.
03-05-2006, 07:29 PM
Did you find the problem? I installed my JRSC + BBK today and mine will not idle. It idles very rough around 750 RPM then just dies. It also dies when I coast to a stop. The exhaust also backfires a lot. I installed a RT CAT as well, so I don't know if that is causing the backfiring. If I get on the gas it pulls smooth right through....
03-05-2006, 07:31 PM
Another question, how did you fit the FC throttle body. I had a look at mine and when I put it on the spacer, a small part of it is blocked off by the spacer. The hole in the spacer does not match the hole on the TB...
03-07-2006, 10:08 AM
He found an issue that something was not installed properly from what I remember.
I would recheck all intake manifold bolts, the 4 bolts for the SC and all hoses.
Did you plug the rear air barb for the boost gauge or did you plug it ?
What's the Tb spacer you speak of ?
The gasket ?
If the gasket, if you used the one supplied with the TB, it's normal.
03-07-2006, 10:37 AM
I already checked all the bolts. The rear air barb is plugged.
The TB spacer is a thin plate that installs between your TB and the SC. It has a paper gasket between the spacer and the SC and the TB has its own rubber gasket between it and the spacer.