03-15-2005, 09:19 PM
I am wanting to go a bit deeper in to tuning my car and before I go and order the cam from www.escortfocus.com I want to know what is involved in installing the cam. The only cam install I have ever seen was only on LARGE motors such as V6 or V8's and the motors where removed from the cars. So what I want to know is, is it required to remove the engine from the focus to install a cam? I realy hope not b/c my car is a driver by day and racer by night so any thing that will put my car down for more than a day or two will not be done.
03-16-2005, 07:35 PM
It's a very good question !
Nobody know ?
03-16-2005, 07:44 PM
I am mainly asking this question towards waterboy I KNOW he has a cam installed. I am just waiting for him.
03-16-2005, 09:38 PM
Gotta take out the intake tubing and the battery. Then you will need a tool from NAPA or whatever that is called an air hold set. It screws into the sparkplug hole and has an air chuck on it. Then you apply pressurized air to the cylinder you're working on and holds the valves closed so you can remove the rocker, spring, retainers, etc. That way you don't need to remove the head. You'll also need a valve spring compressor. I bought one for a small bloch Chevy and ground the corner off a bit and it works great. Tell you what: If you promise to return them, I'll loan them to you. Deal?
Set your engine to TDC. One tooth off will make your car run like a lawnmower. Also, mark your TDC locations, as it takes 2 rotations of the cam to = 1 rotation of the crank. Support the engine with a jack with wood as a cushion. remove the serp belt, top timing belt cover, and timing belt. If you have any miles over 25k, go ahead and replace the timing belt while you're in there. Good preventative maintenance.
After you remove the valve cover, you'll see the rockers and whatnot. After you have replaced the springs, seals, and retainers, you'll be ready to remove the cam. Remove the lifters and keep them in order if you are re-using them. I used an old egg carton. There will be a cam retainer that is held on with two bolts. Remove that the cam is slid out toward the now vacant battery tray. Now you're going to hit what looks like a freeze plug. tap the cam with a mallet or something soft and it'll push the plug and cam out. Keep the plug for re-use. Slide the cam out as straight as possible. Slather the new cam in cam lube or break-in lubricant. Slide that puppy in as straight as you can. Put your cam gear on (you did go ahead and get the adj. timing gear from BDR, right?), then the timing belt and make sure your rockers are torqued to spec. Rotate the engine two full revolutions by hand and recheck your timing. If it's off, fix it and do it again. After you get everything lined up to your satisfaction, set your BDR gear to 4* retarded. Each line represents 2*, so don't go crazy like I did and go 8* retarded. The result is less than exciting. At this point you should be ready to install your plugs, wires, and finish up the install of the cam motor mount and cam freeze plug. Just coat the freeze plug with some permatex and tap it in with a large socket set into the plug.
Take her for a spin. Be cool, there is a break-in period. It'll feel different, but you gotta lay off the gas for 400 miles or so. I'm sure I missed something or I glossed over a description. If it doesn't make sense, let me know and I'll do what I can to clarify.
03-17-2005, 09:27 PM
Jim.... I cant thank you enough, and as soon as I am ready to buy and install these parts I just might take up the offer of borrowing the tools. I printed out the instructions and I am gonna do my home work so I FULLY understand. Once agian thanks!!!!!![thumb]
03-17-2005, 10:21 PM
THX waterboy for the instruction !
I ordered my EFP stage 2 camshaft + lifter last monday !
03-20-2005, 08:18 PM
Do you have some power problem (power come late) with your cam gear setted at 4 retarded and your automatic transmission ?
It's the only fear i have about the EFP cam stage 2