: shifter linkage broke
12-27-2011, 05:57 AM
anyone know of any how to's on this topic?
So far I've removed the center console and the heat duck for the rear.
Now I'm trying to figure out if i have to remove some exhaust components. anyone know?
I should have taken pics to do a how to but i'm lazy and frustrated as it is.
This is gonna be a PITA
12-27-2011, 06:03 AM
Oh it's a PITA, one of the hardest parts to change with the engine and trans in the car. Pull the center console completely out. Pop off the cables on the shift tower, do the same on the tranny side. Then I don't know what to do lol. Pretty sure you can do it with out having to take exhaust parts off but I'm not sure on the SVT since it has a catalytic converter right there.
12-27-2011, 06:06 AM
There is one part under the ac stuff where it comes into the car at
It's 2 nuts 10 or 13 mm undo them to get to them. 2 lower parts of the ac box thing
Might have to come out , might have to bend back some
Heat shield behind the cat too . They come out by pulling them into the car
12-27-2011, 06:20 AM
^^There you go the other part I couldn't remember lol
12-28-2011, 11:58 PM
Just change the linkage tip, that is what I did. Make sure you remember the right lenght or write it down, so you will adjust after. Changing the whole cable would be nice, but it's pita.
12-29-2011, 02:50 AM
so i did it, i changed my damn shifter linkage, and it was fubar'ed, but its okay because I have vicodin for the pain
I wanted to post some pics in hopes that maybe someone will benifit from this info, I usually rely on you focus people, but i couldn't find what i needed so I wanted to give back. and yes i'm disapointed that i couldn't find any pictures. My lazy @ss usually relies on you motivated people to provide info.
First I wanted to post some pics on the two types of shifter linkage ends.
The one that was on my car is the kind that is locked in the up position and free in the down position. To adjust it you have to push it in until it stays down. To lock it in place you have to push the tab where my first finger is and the orange thing pops back up.
here is another picture of this kind in the locked position
to get the cable off the car you just pull really hard.
This is the one i got from the dealer and he said it was an updated part. This one locks in the down position, and it just makes since to be locked in a down position, and is free to adjust in the up position
there is also buttons on the end that you push to put it on and off the car, I don't know what you call it, but i'm talking about the ball that it goes onto.
So this is what my old ones looked like, I'm not sure if they usually break like this, or if my mechanic forgot to unclip them when he changed my clutch a few weeks ago, seems like a coincidence that it broke like this a few weeks after my clutch job.
12-29-2011, 03:31 AM
First off if you're going to do this, prepare to suffer.
I started by removing the center console. You have to remove the shifter boot by poping off the surrounding bezel, It just pops off when you pull up on it. Then, disconnect the seat heater buttons and traction control button, If you can't figure out how to disconnect them you shouldn't be trying to do this job. After you pop the bezel off the stick shift you can remove the boot by pushing forward on the leater from under the plastic on the back. You must pull the ebrake hard to get the center console off.
The center console has Two screws under the cupholder, and you must remove the plastic between the cupholders to get the the three nuts that hold the back of the console down. Here is a pic of the cup holder. there is a plastic slot on the back and the front has a thing that you just have to pull up to remove. And don't forget to remove the cigarette lighter plug.
Next, remove the rear floor heater vent. it has two flat nut things holding it on the back and some wires stuck to it. I was disapointed how it didn't seem to be attatched to the front very well. There was a strange foam piece shoved it there, I dont know why.
the next peice has a screw on each side and two plastic rivets on the bottom, you also have to push it forward and down to get it unhooked from the top part, and then pull the get the piece off, because there is a push lock thing there.
next there is a heater box thing in the way, it just takes 4 screws and a few tabs to get this to come into 2 peices and come off
Laugh iff you want, I'm not a mechanic. I don't know what the proper or mechanics way of doing this is but I didn't want to pull anymore crap out so I got my knife. I cut the little strap of carpet and a T shape cut in the black rubber stuff under the carpet. This made it much easier to get at the bolts. Two 10 mm nuts, yes metric on a ford?
Now for under the car. Jack it up, and use a jackstand. and wear safety glasses, I always don't and i get crap in my eyes. Remove the strrange nuts that hold the heat shield on near the exhaust flexpipe. I removed 4 of them to make do drop as much as i could.
You also must remove the airbox to disconnect the cables from the tranny. remove the air cleaner by removing 4 screws and to get the bottom of the box out you just have tou pull up, hard.
pull that heatshield down,unhook the cables from a bracket behind the heatsheild and try to get your cables out. It would have helped me alot if I had an extra set of hands to help on one end while i was on the other. Took way too much time trying to get the cables back in because I had to get under my car and back up alot.
When all was said and done I used a torch to heat up an awl and used zip ties to keep the cut material together, and I put tape on it as well.
after it is all back together you have to put the shifter in a spot where you think it will be in neutral and lock it in place. I was lucky enough to get it right the first time. Just do one axis at a time.
Typing is the easy part, doing it is a PITA. getting them back in is even more fun.. I probably missed something in there....Goood luck
12-29-2011, 03:36 AM
Cool write up wish I could see the pics, work internet strikes again!
12-29-2011, 03:42 AM
I hope i didn't mess up the process of posting the pics. I can see them, anyone else?
12-29-2011, 03:47 AM
My work blocks most pics and stuff like that.
12-29-2011, 03:54 AM
well it sounds bad but i'm glad its just you thats missing out, damn work computers screwing people out of screwing them. I understand why labor for this is so much now. and I just hope someone might make note of this post so people can see the difference of the orange things. I have to mess with something because when I did a test drive I heard a rattling, I think the cables might be rattling of the cat.
12-29-2011, 04:04 AM
How does someone post 12000 posts? you're work software must not be very good.
12-29-2011, 04:04 AM
Well the internet here is fire walled, I use my own computer.
01-05-2012, 10:23 PM
Do you have the part number of that cable and how much did it cost the socket wore out on mine and the cable keeps popping off
01-05-2012, 11:06 PM
I paid 165 at my dealership because i wanted it the next day, but here is the part number from CFM website and here is a link for it
Not the most fun part to fix
12-15-2012, 01:04 AM
Dehacked, do you know if it would be possible to get just the plastic part at the end from Ford or do they only sell the whole cable assembly?
12-15-2012, 03:12 PM
I'm sure you can't find them anywhere, you have to buy the whole thing. If you have to buy the shifter linkage and you have time I'd check the pricing at tousley ford. info is all over the forum
01-03-2013, 10:11 PM
Any pics of this installed,does the white one go on the top or bottom?
01-03-2013, 10:28 PM
there are pics of the installation if you go to page one on this thread. and if you can't figure out which end goes where you may not want to try this on your own.
01-03-2013, 10:42 PM
Honestly I dont see any pics where it connects to the tranny,I was just finishing up my clutch job and I dont remember if the black cable goes under or above the white one?