11-14-2010, 09:45 PM
So there are two "nipples" on the back of the jrsc manifold to insert vacuum lines. Just what are they used for and where do they go? Also im missing the throttle cable bracket and the hose that goes from the tb to the intake. If someone could give me a part number that would be great. Any info is appreciated, im trying to finally drive this thing...so close
11-14-2010, 10:24 PM
here you go, thats the best i can do at the moment to lazy to put something on to go look. but search my name on photobucket and youll find some more pics of the engine in there
..:: sleestak ::..
11-15-2010, 01:29 AM
There's a thread over at the "other board" concerning a revised routing of the vacuum tree. Hope this helps: http://forums.focaljet.com/forced-induction-nitrous/521169-jrsc-vacuum-lines.html
11-15-2010, 11:26 AM
for your missing parts you'll probably have to make your own throttle cable bracket; They are no longer available (at least they weren't when I tried to order one). BUT it only took me about an hour to make mine, and I used much thicker steel.
As for the accordion tube for the intake, its not hard to make something for that out of some pipe and couplers.
For vac; just think:
Ports on manifold see boost and vac.
Ports beside TB only see vac.
11-15-2010, 12:29 PM
Also im missing the throttle cable bracket and the hose that goes from the tb to the intake.
The original hose length is 10" and the diameter is ~2 3/4". I used 3" when I had to make up a hose because 2 3/4" was too tight.
11-15-2010, 12:40 PM
Thanks for all the answers. I think I got the vacuum lines all set. Just where does the bypass valve hose go. To the inlet or to the manifold? Also how hard was it for you to get your belt on? Im having a hell of a time trying to get it on.
..:: sleestak ::..
11-15-2010, 08:21 PM
I believe the bypass needs to see both vacuum and boost(?). Sorry I just realized that link I posted isn't working. This is what you should read, its the revised routing for the vacuum tree. Some were experiencing funky warm starts with the old routing (which was in the directions for CARB legal routing). The post includes confirmation from Oscar Jackson Sr. The new routing allows the fuel pressure sensor to see both boost and vacuum.
About your belt...
One thing you might notice is that the supplied belt (106.5) can be a tiny bit slack, esp once it relaxes. Some people have had some issues with belt sizes, mine would squeel like mad when it got cold out, esp in the snow. Well your next size smaller is 105.5 and is too tight. I tried a few belts before I found the one that really did the trick. Do yourself a favor and get it from NAPA.
It's a re-branded Gates belt, heavy duty for fleet use.... and its GREEN, like the Hulk, so you know it's strong! With the blower adding the extra strain on the belt, you need to get one with some backbone - not some POS Gatorback, Dayco, etc. Trust me, I ran the gammut.
Gates V-Line Belt
The flexible hose from MAF >> TB cannot be replaced from Moss, I know they are out of these so if you really want one just like it, you will have to find a company who will sell you one like it: www.hosenow.com can make you one with a cuff on each end for a good seal. I think it was something steep though, like 50-60 buxorz. Check out the FlexFab hoses if you are still interested. Otherwise, I used two silicon couplers with a bent section of tubing I got from PepBoys. The tubing was cheap, looked like chrome and withstood the heat just fine.
Hope all this helps
11-16-2010, 10:28 AM
[QUOTE=iceberg65;3464728]for your missing parts you'll probably have to make your own throttle cable bracket; They are no longer available (at least they weren't when I tried to order one). BUT it only took me about an hour to make mine, and I used much thicker steel.QUOTE]
Can you take a picture of your custom throttle cable bracket so I can see what yours looks like?? That would be great!
11-17-2010, 05:26 PM
not the best picture; but the idea is pretty simple.
The bracket is held on by 2 bolts, and the cables by a round opening and a square opening. The round one is easy; just a drill bit. The square one I drilled out then squared off using a die-grinder and a carbide bit.
I just used a plate of steel and cut it with a zip cut disc on a grinder to a shape like this:
shitty drawing yes; but you get the idea, cut away a arch to go around the throttle body; drill holes for the 2 mounting points. bend 90* to line up a plate infront of the linkage on the TB. Cut the holes where they line up.
11-18-2010, 08:30 AM
Thanks iceberg65 thats a great deal of help. I gave the diagram to one of my buddies and he is going to try to reproduce what you made.
One last question. I got the JRSC BBK and I baught the 106.5" belt but I seem to be a half an inch to an inch too short no matter how I put it on. I rechecked my belt routing like 5 times and I thought that was the size needed for the JRSC BBK. Any suggestions let me know
11-18-2010, 12:48 PM
106.5 should fit. Its tight though; are you sure you are getting the tension-er all the way released? When I did my belt I had the wheel off; I was able to get a wrench wedged against my lower control arm while holding the tension-er all the way loose. It let me use both hands to reef on the belt. I put the belt on the Blower Pulley Last.
However; if you have the old style alt bracket the routing and length are different iirc. But the SVT kits all had the new style bracket
Also with my tension-er I had to shave down a section of it to clear the idler on the alt relocation bracket; the Gatorback one I bought had a thicker spring housing then stock.
If your having the bracket made based on my design; make sure to use thick-ish steel. the simple 90* bend wont hold up if its too thin. The pic I posted shows how thick it is, never did measure it.
Tools I used were:
Dremel with cone grinding bit.
sharpie to mark hole locations and where to cut