Its time for a serious engine build!

I was running 5psi of boost on stock engine with a homemade turbo setup.
It is currently out of commission after the stock clutch finally quit grabbing after 6 months of pure boosted torture.

I've got a new performance clutch on order and now its time to focus on the engine.

The engine is a 2.0 Zetec and has 100,000 miles on it. The last 10,000 of that was with boost and driven HARD. It was still running decent when I stopped driving it. It was making an odd random popping noise that seemed to be coming from the passengers side of the engine. It didn't seem like a noise that would come from the rotating assembly (crank,rods or pistons). It seemed more like something in the timing belt/serpentine belt area. I was told the timing belt tensioner were known to fail in these cars. Is there anything that is known to go wrong in that area that could cause a random tick,popping noise?

Also what kind of pistons and rods are you guys that run big boost running?
I see JE and Ross pistons both carry 9:1cr pistons. I was looking for something lower.

How much power we talking. 9:1 should be fine.

looking for 250whp. planning on running about 14 psi of boost.

250whp will run for years on a bone stock Zetec if you keep the maintenance up and don't rag on it when you feel/see a problem.

In answer to your question a lot of people on here run the eagle hbeam rods. They are around $300 or so for a set of 4. They will handle what you want. Pistons is just a matter of personal opinion.

I was running my stock zetec at 11-12 psi making 223 before i made some more modifications. Id like to think I was at 230. The only reason im doing a build now is because I have bad compression. I would check your compression to see if you need to even do a build. Im pretty sure you would be happy with 230-240 and that is doable on stock internals and would save you some $$$.

Also if your transmission is out and you are looking for that power you probably want to look into a different differential. Your going to have a lot of traction issues with the stock open differential.

Also the 9:1 compression is plenty low for your power goals. Supertech makes some 8.7:1 and Ive seen 8.5:1 out there too but you really dont need that low of a compression piston for 250 whp.

Good Idea about the diff. Who makes an LSD for this trans. Any part #s

I might as well build the motor now because it WILL end up blown up if I dont. Its all tore apart right now so its the perfect time.

So heres the list I've got so far.

JE 9:1 pistons
Eagle H-beams
ARP head studs

Now I've got even more questions.

Should I bother with aftermarket valves?
Do these heads have much material in the ports I can hogg out? Valve unshrouding?
How much boost can that cheap plastic intake manifold deal with?
Is it worth upgrading my cam? Are there any cam grinds out there that suit a turbo application?

Also, haven't heard anything about that noise I was talking about.

Ive been wondering about a turbo cam as well. I'll be putting on a roush kit and was curios what turbo cams are out there.


Good Idea about the diff. Who makes an LSD for this trans. Any part #s

I might as well build the motor now because it WILL end up blown up if I dont. Its all tore apart right now so its the perfect time.

So heres the list I've got so far.

JE 9:1 pistons
Eagle H-beams
ARP head studs

Now I've got even more questions.

Should I bother with aftermarket valves?
Do these heads have much material in the ports I can hogg out? Valve unshrouding?
How much boost can that cheap plastic intake manifold deal with?
Is it worth upgrading my cam? Are there any cam grinds out there that suit a turbo application?

Also, haven't heard anything about that noise I was talking about.

cams and head work really are a waste of money. you will easily make the power you are looking for or a lot more on the stock head and cams. you will not see any more gain than one more click on the boost control would make up for.

cams and head work really are a waste of money. you will easily make the power you are looking for or a lot more on the stock head and cams. you will not see any more gain than one more click on the boost control would make up for.

Agree 100%

If your only wanting 250 (which that will change ) then go back stock it will hold it fine , If not then

Eagle rods
Forged Pistons
ARP head and main studs

Tom

Agree 100%

If your only wanting 250 (which that will change ) then go back stock it will hold it fine , If not then

Eagle rods
Forged Pistons
ARP head and main studs

Tom

What do you mean "which that will change" Tom?

Everyone always wants more power. 250whp will get you moving...but then you want to know what 300whp feels like...then that's not fast enough.

Its true. I used to only want 5-7 psi b/c i was stock. Then i kept turning it up b/c i was like heck its supposed to be able to handle this. Now im building a motor to handle 300 at least. But this will be my last step...i hope.

I have said this for years , People went with the jrsc or pw saying this is perfect and all I will ever want , even use to get pissy with me because I didnt like the SC line offered

I have removed over 65 jrsc , pw , PC , Vortech to go Turbo and one jrsc in the shop now to go Turbo that will make 66

Boost is VERY addictive , I have owned dozens of boosted cars I know

Tom

yep same here. ive ran jrsc 170whp, swaped to turbo on stock motor 220whp, built motor 290whp, bigger turbo 353whp, swapped every thing for turbo v8 should put me around 7 or 8.

i am building my motor and using probe pistons, eagle rods and arp hardwear.

Well, I'd rather build it from the bottom up. There's no point in in trying to get big power out of stock parts now then building it better later because it blew up.

The way I see it. The bottom end is like the foundation of a house. You don't go building a $300,000 house on a old cracked foundation, do you?

I see tom suggested ARP main studs. Do these motors like to stretch their main cap bolts,?

The Eagle rods would come equipped with good bolts would they? Or should I swap those out with ARPs to?

Also. Is the stock Zetec oil pump really up to the task of supplying the turbo and engine? I never did install a gauge but I had a suspicion the oil pressure was getting down there when idling after some "spirited" driving. It did like to make some funky noises when it was really, really hot.

As for the 250 horsepower #. Who knows. It'll make what it makes. But I don't really want to push it right to the edge of what it can handle. I want it to be somewhat conservative. A little room for error.

Also, that returnless fuel system scares the crap out of me. I think I'm gonna make it a return system with an rising rate adjustable FPR. I never did pay any attention to the fuel pressure when I was tuning it. How does the EEC control the fuel pump? Does it make the pump hold one steady pressure or does it raise and lower with manifold pressure?

you will need a boost a pump CFM has them. the stock oil pump should be fine and yes replace all hardwear with ARP

I read just enough about this Boost A Pump thing to get me wondering how it works. What exactly does it do?

Is the stock Zetec oil pump really up to the task of supplying the turbo and engine? I never did install a gauge but I had a suspicion the oil pressure was getting down there when idling after some "spirited" driving. It did like to make some funky noises when it was really, really hot.


You act as if the turbo needs a lot of oil?

Undo you oil return line and go for a drive. Then come back and tell me the turbo doesn't use much oil. I bet you wont!

I fried the crank and rod bearing on my first 2.3 turbo in my Ranger cause I used the original ranger pump. The pump off a turbo motor wouldn't clear the ranger oil pan. Because it was bigger so it could feed the turbo and the engine. not just the engine.

Undo you oil return line and go for a drive. Then come back and tell me the turbo doesn't use much oil. I bet you wont!

I fried the crank and rod bearing on my first 2.3 turbo in my Ranger cause I used the original ranger pump. The pump off a turbo motor wouldn't clear the ranger oil pan. Because it was bigger so it could feed the turbo and the engine. not just the engine.

Sure you can force all kinds of oil pressure through the turbo, but a turbo does not require much oil. That is why you need to use a oil restrictor on the turbo feed.

I am running a t3 off of a turbocoupe on the focus. The only thing on it that you could call an oil restrictor is the 90 degree elbow where the line goes into the center section of the turbo. It is the same elbow that was on the turbo when it was on the turbocoupe. And since ford put it on there I'm sure it flows the correct amount of oil to the turbo.

Ahah i love jeffescort :) the legend himself from feoa :)

I read just enough about this Boost A Pump thing to get me wondering how it works. What exactly does it do?

Increases the voltage to the fuel pump. Normally the pump runs anywhere from 13.5 to 14.5V. The BAP bumps it up to as high as 17.5, maybe 18V. People have been running like that for years and years with no pump failure. It makes big power possible.

you will need a boost a pump CFM has them. the stock oil pump should be fine and yes replace all hardwear with ARP

Aeromotive> Kenne Bell.

I know alot of guys run them and love the setup.

But if you are REALLY looking to build, and such, look into a aeromotive tsunami. Nothing sexier then a badass fuel pump down by the bumper, it's what i have run on both turbo vehicles i own, and plan to run on my next.

You'll never have to worry about running out of fuel delivery, and honestly, if your going to do something, i believe in doing it right. Not just tricking the voltage to reading something else so it delivers more.

It doesn't "trick" the voltage...it literally pushes 17.5V to the pump. Think of it as "over driving." Also, people have run them for years with no problems. John, who's pushing 365 to the tires, has been running BAP for probably...5 years.

Aeromotive> Kenne Bell.

I know alot of guys run them and love the setup.

But if you are REALLY looking to build, and such, look into a aeromotive tsunami. Nothing sexier then a badass fuel pump down by the bumper, it's what i have run on both turbo vehicles i own, and plan to run on my next.

You'll never have to worry about running out of fuel delivery, and honestly, if your going to do something, i believe in doing it right. Not just tricking the voltage to reading something else so it delivers more.

The cost of the B-A-P is about 10% of the cost of a return fuel system and it works , It isnt a trick it actually raises the fuel psy by allowing more voltage to the fuel pump with no side effects in the 10 years I have been using them

Tom

What would you say about running svt rods and forged pistons?