: 140* coolant temp problem thereafter
10-12-2009, 12:11 AM
I've got no way to log or view live data, and this isn't in the right section, but I assure you it's hear because those who may know frequent this section more than tech.
Normal driving I don't get over 130* coolant temp. Even when it was 75-80 out when I first did the swap. In town stop and go I'll warm up to maybe 180*, turn the heater on and it drops decently quick.
Lately (last 4 days or so) when I get up to about 140* my idle goes to shit. It'll bounce a few hundred RPM and just stall out.
Car doesn't use oil and leaks no coolant. My first though was cracked head or something along that line, no dice though. So my second thought is fuel. But if I remember what Tom and ill said the warmup tables/etc are time based and not temp based. So something seems different about mine then and I just can't put my finger on it.
Put a new fuel filter in the other day thinking, eh it's cheap WTH. Same deal. Put my COP setup on and some MOT coppers, no change (with the idle that is, everything else is better).
Guess I'm just looking for someone to say 'hey stupid, your injectors are that dirty, get them cleaned professionally'. But the temp thing is weird, isn't it?
10-12-2009, 12:13 AM
Doesn't ever warm up? Sounds like a stuck open t-stat.
10-12-2009, 12:40 AM
Might be, gonna check tomorrow. Worked fine when it was put in 2ish months ago though. Just hasn't warmed up since I put the polished head on (which I kind of expected based on past experience, see here (http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d120/iminhell/Conquest/100_0453.jpg) and here (http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d120/iminhell/svt%20head/100_1309.jpg) for reference).
10-12-2009, 08:08 AM
I've got a crap load of head work done as well and I dont have any issues..... maybe its your sensor??
10-12-2009, 09:14 AM
Polishing the combustionchambers has nothing to do with engine temps and by looking at your pictures I dont think you fully understand what and why doing this helps and whats its done for or maybe I am just not seeing it in the pictures fully
Polishing the CC so you can see your self in it really does nothing but make the guy doing it feel better , what your after is removing any surface or SHARP EDGES that might when EGT come up promote deto/spk knock and altho what you have done is very pritty you have made a lot of very sharp edges
What you want is more of a smoothing effect vs a high pollish
As stated doing what you did has nothing to do with your engine temps they (even with a high polish) should respond just like a stock head , do you have an aftermarket raid? what are your fans coming on at ? have you checked your temps with something other then gauge ? Did you move your sensor or is it still stock position
10-12-2009, 09:33 AM
Either the sensor or a stuck open T-stat
10-12-2009, 11:21 AM
Even if the thurmo is stuck unles the fans are coming on at that low a temp it will still get hot at idle and not moving , turn the fans off and no thurmo and you will see it heat to boil
Sensor is my guess or big raid and early fans , Not sure what all he has or where he is getting the reading from if he cant datalog
10-12-2009, 12:09 PM
ive noticed since i put a 180* thermo in and the weather started getting colder my car runs a lot cooler especially since it is kinda cold outside.
10-12-2009, 12:35 PM
Sure it will but should never be below what the thurmostat is , If you have a 180 thurmo and you go to 170deg temp when moving then you have a bad thurmostat and its stuck open
This needs to be watched on a scan tool not the ODO
10-12-2009, 02:25 PM
Stock radiator, actually the whole cooling system is stock apart from the SVT water outlet and I'm using a SVT water temp sensor (SVT has no provision for a head temp sensor like the stock zetec). Resistances of the sensors is identical though.
Fans are on toggle switches, so they come on when I turn them on lol. Which is never as it is now.
I did get it to warm up once. Had to let it idle for about an hour though.
10-12-2009, 06:25 PM
What thurmostat is in it now ? How are you checking temps now ?
10-12-2009, 06:53 PM
180* I think.
Dash test mode (I mean that is what the ECU is seeing, isn't it?)
I don't have an IR gun or any other way to verify temp. But it seems correct. Around 180-190 the reservoir starts transferring coolant. So I think it's close to accurate, sensor is brand new so It should be.
10-12-2009, 07:43 PM
I would find some one with a scan tool and doublt check , If in fact you have a 180 in there and your 140/150 then its bad and open
I have found the dash to bo off before and never used it again
10-13-2009, 04:07 PM
Just pop over to Tousley near closing time and ask Steve to datalog it for you real quick. Although I guess that is a 2 hour drive for you.
10-13-2009, 04:32 PM
Im sure there is someone other then steve to do this for you , you dont know of a close Focus or Ford guy that has a xcal ?
10-17-2009, 10:09 AM
Will the cheap scanner at autozone read data or just codes?
10-17-2009, 11:53 AM
Most just read codes
10-20-2009, 11:10 PM
We used to have a decent one at O'reilly but cooperate took it back.
I did find this though, randomly:
I/M Readiness Indication
If the inferred ambient temperature is less than 32 F, or greater than 140 F, or the altitude is greater than 8,000
feet (BARO < 22.5 "Hg), the EGR monitor cannot be run reliably. In these conditions, a timer starts to accumulate
the time in these conditions. If the vehicle leaves these extreme conditions, the timer starts decrementing, and, if
conditions permit, will attempt to complete the EGR flow monitor. If the timer reaches 500 seconds, the EGR
monitor is disabled for the remainder of the current driving cycle and the EGR Monitor I/M Readiness bit will be set
to a “ready” condition after one such driving cycle.
I realize it's talking ambient temp (AIT) but being the only codes I ever get are EGR ones it's all that makes sense for my wonky idle. Have to get that fixed at some point.
10-21-2009, 10:54 AM
If you were not so hard headed about things you would turn off the POS EGR
10-21-2009, 02:38 PM
Poor is more correct . . . grandpa lol