Hey all,

I'm finally getting around to tuning my car and I have run into a problem with my o2 sensors.

I have a JAW (Just Another Wideband) hooked up to my car and its working great. Right now its in the rear o2 spot, after my cat. I really don't want to "just say its .02 lambda leaner"...

So I have two options

1. (obviously) weld another bung in. This involves removing the cat pipe from the car, and as im sure many of you know the zetec cat flange gasket is impossible to find and expensive. I would like to avoid this if I can.

2. Use my JAW (which has 2 Vout's) to simulate a narrowband 1V, put my wbo2 in the stock spot, and splice wires into my car's harness. I will use the other vout to go to datalogging.


I would like to do #2 but was wondering if anyone has tried it and had it not work? Im wondering if the fact that it wont be oscillating will make the PCM get confused and start dumping fuel in.


I also need to know if you can extend the time the PCM stays in OL after starting, the bosch wbo2 has a longer warm-up time than a nbo2 does.

I could not find anything specific to the 02 heater time. But. there is the IDLE_SPEED_ADDER_FOR_STARTUP you may want to look at.
I think you would have to ask Allen about what sort of output your JAW would make on the other serial port. But I think your saying it would be a steady 1v output. The web page says that Version 1.041 does have the narrowband simulator. What version do you have?

I have the JAW 1.03 using 1.12 firmware

I can put a specific ramp on the two outputs individually. There is a preset for 1V narrowband. There are also presets for 10.0-18.0, theres one for the LC-1's ramp, and others.

The nice thing about it is when I want to do real fine tuning I can make the 5v ramp from 12.5-15.5 and really get a good reading of afr.

PS Alan is pretty useless, I found this out after buying but thankfully I had no problems with my transaction nor with my equipment, im a happy customer.


idle speed adder for startup would just increase/decrease the idle speed at start, no? the way i see it, I could lower that a bit to extend the time the engine stays too cold for closed loop.

bump?

I'll add my $0.02
I did this on my GTP with an LC-1
First things first, you WILL NOT get a correct reading if the wideband is post converter. The cat. uses oxygen as part of the exhaust cleaning process so you will be getting an erroneous reading.

I had my wideband in the stock (pre-cat) location and used a simulated 0-1v output straight to the PCM. Only thing you need to do is disable the lazy O2 codes that will set because the wideband doesn't toggle above and below .450v like a stock sensor does. The smooth output of the wideband (simulated narrowband) will set 'lazy' O2 codes.

THANK YOU!!

So, i can just turn off those codes in Advantage somewhere?

Well, that's at your end.
I don't have any tuning software with this car, yet. I'm running the FR JRSC tune.

I had the software and hardware with the Pontiac and it was an option to not report certain errors.

Alright, i'll check into that and make a decision

BTW, why do you need to remove the pipe to weld in a bung?

I just cant see how youre going to get a welder in there with the EGR in the way. Plus theres almost no way youd be able to get to the head side of the weld.

I also cant really find a good spot to put it. There really isnt all that much room between the flange and the cat. One side already has the stock bung and the other side has the EGR pipe.

OK i just found time delay for closed loop after start, and also it looks like you can turn on/off all possible codes in scalars.

Let's hope that is the case.

Now to get Tom to reply to my emails....... [?|]

My bad... (I hate when people say that)
I have an SVT header and was thinking of that, there's tons of room.

Funny, my LC-1 is sitting in the box waiting for me to install in a week or so.

Yeah i figured you had a long tube lol

Good luck with your install, just make sure you use the same ground point for all of the grounds including the lead for your xcal.

Bought a buss bar at Radio Shack, no ground loops for Dan-O. [race]

I forgot, as suggested before, you will also need to kill the heater codes.

You need to run the stock o2 in as close to the stock location as you can , you can mess with the o2 length , time , but you will fine it works best left alone , install a bung and keep it simple

Tom

The plan is to use a wideband in the stock location and report a 1V signal. Dwell time shouldnt be affected, I wouldnt think.

just an update, decided im just going to tune in OL with the wideband in the stock location and put the stock sensor back in when I go back to closed loop.