just got all my stuff on my car and ready to turn on i just installed a bbk foir my jrsc and when i turned it it jumped to 2 rpms and made a loud squeal and just died and it does it everytime ive been looking over the car but i cant see any problems. can anyone think of what it could be?

any clue where the squeal came from? If I am remembering correctly that a JRSC is a Screw-type supercharger. I've heard of this before of the Lightning forums... Is there oil in the supercharger? Take off the drivebelt and try turning it by hand. should be a smooth roll with minor resistance if any

Did you just install the big boost upgrade or the whole supercharger kit?

i just installed it. im thinkin has something to do with the maf to now because if i remove the airbox hose from the throttle body and start it it dosnt die it idles high and funnny and still squeals LOUD like a balloon letting air out. but if its connected it just poops up to 2 rpm and dies.

I have done the same before. I actually ran my Lightning for a mile w/o the MAF plugged in. It ran ok, but I knew there was something wrong. Did you get a new MAF for the S/C? Also, I can't imagine where else the squealing is coming from besides the drive belt. Your drive belt might not be aligned properly. Try find Sporadic's thread on his turbo build. He had a similar situation when he started up his car. I think he unplugged the IAC (Idle Air Controller) started the car, it will run rough but will eventually find itself. adjust the throttle screw back to a normal idle speed then plugged it back in. I think that is how it went. Give it a try, also might want to scroll through Sporadics thread just to make sure I am right!!

the squeel was more than likely the belt. the dying is more than likely a vacuum leak since the rpm's jumped like that.

^^^^ I agree with that

ok squeal was coming from inside the s/c i took off the belt and wqhen i rotated the s/c pulley it would stick and be rough but then i took off the s/c and it rotated perfect. there is some oil in the intake manifold so might be a problem there i dont know where there would be a vacume leak i checked everything.it runs really crapy when i put the old maf in but still squeals and the engine bogs alot.

Word of advice, change your spark plugs!! I can't remember what I had mine gapped to but it was a much smaller gap than the stock gap. I stuck with the stock plugs, they're perfect! If you haven't changed them by now, then you should look into changing them soon! When I had my JRSC put on, I didn't change my stock plugs and the car surged/bogged a lot and it was bad! About the squeal, I have no idea? Upgrade your motor mounts as well!! Any hard turns on those stock mounts, expect to find metal shreds from the bbk pulley.

i changed them when i put the jrsc on a couple months ago. so they should be ok but ill check.

ok put back on the sc and no more WHINE wich is good cant use the maf that ford sent me in the kit only my old one works and it hangs at about a thousand rpms wich is good but its really rough idle its pretty shakey so im gonna check the spark plugs and see what they are gapped at and make sure they are still good. anyone know anything else please let me know!! i want to get it running good tonight.

still sounds like a vacuum leak, especially since the new maf wont work, I would check the IAC mine was running bad for a two weeks after my jrsc install, and it was my IAC, its as bad as a vacuum leak only with metered air. Hope you get this thing figured out soon, I'm curious to see how you like the bbk, as I am looking to upgrade by next spring.

yeah when i turn the key on it jumps to 25 or maybe a little more rpms now and falls down to about 800 then raises to 1-1100 where it moves back and forth and the engine is real shaky im throwing a cel already but i dont have a checker and can get out to have someone to do it so i gotta figure it out im pretty sure its not a leak ive looked everything over. but im still looking around spark plugs were ok and i gapped them at .45 so they should be good. ill check they iac is it the silver peice on the bottom thats held in by two 10mm bolts? and has two holes in the bottom and a sensor hooked to it?

You will need a set of spark plugs that are atleast one step colder. NGK's are really good IMO

i have plats on right now autolights

yeah when i turn the key on it jumps to 25 or maybe a little more rpms now and falls down to about 800 then raises to 1-1100 where it moves back and forth and the engine is real shaky im throwing a cel already but i dont have a checker and can get out to have someone to do it so i gotta figure it out im pretty sure its not a leak ive looked everything over. but im still looking around spark plugs were ok and i gapped them at .45 so they should be good. ill check they iac is it the silver peice on the bottom thats held in by two 10mm bolts? and has two holes in the bottom and a sensor hooked to it?

yes that is the iac, and from what you just described that is your problem, the Idle air control valve, moves in and out between those two holes and is a controlled vacuum leak, and if its revving up and down on you it sounds like it can't find the right idle, have you tried disconnecting your battery?

no not yet im goona go mess with it for a sec and come back and let you all know something

well when it warms up now it stays at around 1000rms maybe a ltittle lower but not much and just bogs the engine bucks not REAL hard but its enough to know that somthing isnt right, i hope its not the iac becuase ill have to take the s/c BACK of for the 2nd time today and i dont really wanna do that.

I pulled my iac with my supercharger still on, but it was a pain in the ass. Man wish I could be more help. Have you tried hooking up the new maf and pulling the battery cable and seeing if the ecu will relearn the new set up?

no ill try in a min ill try some more to get the iac oof now that i know it can be done ahha thats good to know im reading some older threads tryin to get a better feel i got a couple things im gonna try when i go back out, and thanks for helping man your giving me some good tips to do. i really appreciate it.

if you have any carb cleaner just spray it all on the intake and sc and see if you have any vacuum leaks.

the iac can be reset. unplug it, start the car, keep it running while you set the throttle screw to about 1k rpm, then plug it back in.

do you have a wideband?

no i just read on my boost gauge that is off a little but the vacume is only reading between 2 and 4 on the boost gauge and thats off by 2 or so so its really from about 4-6 ill get some carb cleaner tommorrow and try resetting the iac tongiht

you will not be able to reset the iac correctly with out fixing the vacuum leak first. you should read 19-20" hg at idle.

when i took off the iac it ran fine for a little bit and the vaccume read a little over 10 prolly about 14. should i spray the carb cleaner while the car is on or off and is it ok to drive right now?

im pretty sure it has a leak now becuase i drove it for a bit and it would only get up to like 3-4 rpms and wouldnt go anymore and you could here air coming out of somewhere and i only reached about 5psi. so i gotta find that

Turbo turtle is right... spend some time and track down all your vacuum leaks and try to move around the nylon tube that goes betwen your S/C and gauge cause those can be tricky and get a flase reading if they aren't pushed all the way into the fittings or a pinched.

spray the carb cleaner while the car is running and when it injests the cleaner through the vacuum leak it will stumble and that will tell you where it is.

is it healthy for then s/c to have it sprayed into it? and i sprayed some in last night not alot and it stumbled and died a few times while doing it but i didnt see any smoke. i went ahead and took of the s/c and replaced the iac since i had another one and the gasket b/w the s/c and intake manifold is looking pretty flimsy im wondering if thats it, when you set it on a flat surface it dosnt set flat unless pressure is added and its stretched a little.

the carb cleaner will not hurt it. the engine just can not burn it the same as gas so it will die or stumble. you dont need to spray it into it, it is obvious it will die that way. spray it every where that it COULD have a vacuum leak.

who knows though, since you are taking it all off any way you may fix your problem in the process.

put it back on now im getting a loud obnoxious whine again and crappy idle at 1000 or below. its starting to drive me crazy this shouldnt be this hard. im gonna order and new gasket monday for b/w the s/c and intake and try it again i guess.

there is oil in the manifold part of thes/c what does that mean?

it is from the pcv system being ran back into the sc. that is why people use a catch can... but even with a catch can you will get some.

well i got pics of two iacv i have and ill post em becuase they are both diff but are both ford parts they say ford on them. some of the numbers are the same but others arnt and inside the bottome is diff. and the outside bottom says UD on the bottom and the second one says SA. heres the first one

http://img371.imageshack.us/img371/5347/focus012sd5.jpg

http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/3985/focus015st2.jpg

and heres the scond one
http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/9697/focus013ly9.jpg

http://img371.imageshack.us/img371/1717/focus014ii3.jpg


is there a way to test em to make sure they work before putting them on.and why are they so diff.?

is the maf that ford sent with the bbk the same as stock becuase it does worse than the stock one when the car is on.

no it's not the same, it's supposed to ONLY work with the BBK. If the sound is back I would have someone check out that sc... and double check your belt alignment.

yeah im gonna put it back on tommorrow ordered a new gasket frm moss mostors and they sent me the wrong one so the new one will be here tommorrow. im have some very BAD luck with this s/c deal. anyone know if theres a way to test if the iac is bad? w/o it on the vehicle