!! I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU MESS UP YOUR CAR, THIS IS ONLY A GUIDE !!

Well it has finally come time for some more power to the wheels and a whole lot more fun driving. I have decided to take the mtx swap plunge. At first I wasnt gonna do a thread... but there are still so many questions out there and not very many pics at all. So since I have not that much to do this summer besides this swap, I figured I'd throw the Focus community a bone [;)]

By no means am I trying to step on anybody's toes who has done this before, this is just MY build thread [:)] In fact, I will probably reference others who have helped out.

I guess I will start off with sending you to boosted2nr's thread with a pretty thorough parts list and install procedure...

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=153256

and then I can show you the parts list I put together with prices

http://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?key=pqxviO5BjugDN-CQ3BofoCA

Your prices may vary. For instance, I chose to go with an OEM replacement clutch and a new stock flywheel in that spreadsheet. Not included on that spreadsheet but included in my build is the Torsen and its related parts. It should be noted that you would get a much better deal by buying from a partout thread or buying a parts car to part out yourself.

Why have I chosen the clutch I chose? Well, the simple fact is (and it has been hard to swallow this) I will not be able to afford a turbo for another 2 years or so. So a slightly stronger OEM-style clutch will do the job for now until I can afford better.

So then, why the Torsen? Well, the simple fact is, I am making enough power to do one-wheel peel whenever I want to... I expect to hit at least 155whp/150wtq with the mtx. Autocross is much more fun when youre not burning up your diff struggling to get traction [deviltail]

so, on with the pics.... feel free to ask questions, and to answer my questions as I go along. My first question is pretty simple, its about installing the clutch... you'll see it later on. EDIT, I answered this question myself, there are 3 locating dowels and 6 threaded holes on the flywheel, with holes to match on the pressure plate.

[cheers]


COMPLETE PARTS LIST
(see next post for pics)

Transmission
transmission, including:
-vehicle speed sensor and pigtail
-reverse sensor and pigtail
-shifter cable bracket
-rear mount bracket
-tripod of the upper mount
-gear selector

Clutch/Flywheel
flywheel
clutch pressure plate and disc
slave cylinder and throwout bearing (comes as one piece)
flywheel bolts (get new ones)
pressure plate bolts
clutch alignment tool

Shifter, etc
shifter and base and bracket from same era as trans i.e. 2000-2002.5
shift cables from same era as trans i.e. 2000-2002.5
shifter boot
shift knob
applicable nuts and bolts

Fluid and Pedals
brake/clutch fluid reservoir from a manual transmission car
the fluid lines coming off the reservoir
clutch master cylinder
the fluid line that goes from the clutch master cylinder to the slave cylinder
clips that hold the lines into the master and slave cylinders
brake and clutch pedal box and pedal covers
clutch position sensor (there is a way to wire it without this thing)
brake fluid (it would be good to have 2 liters ready) I prefer ATE Super Blue or Typ200, or if you are cheap Valvoline SynPower
3 quarts of Motorcraft XT-M5-QS fluid

Underhood
starter from a manual transmission car
crank position sensor mount from a manual transmission car
intermediate shaft bearing mount (bolted to the back of the engine)

Torsen LSD
M-4204-F20 -- Torsen
F7RZ-4221-AC -- 2 differential bearings
F5RZ-1S177-AA -- or, BRS46 -- 2 axle seals
YS4Z-17285-AA -- 1 vehicle speed sensor gear
possibly 1 differential shim (I got lucky and didnt need one)



TOOLS

Torsen
flathead screwdriver
T30 torx bit
3/8" drive torque wrench
3/8" drive ratchet
3/8" drive 3" extension
3/8" drive 6-point 10mm shallow socket
3/8" drive 6-point 13mm shallow socket
10mm combination wrench
13mm combination wrench
15mm combination wrench
17mm combination wrench
10mm ratchet wrench
hammer
plastic-tipped hammer
6lb pellet-filled mallet with plastic head
many, many, many large surgical towels (or lint-free equivalent)
flashlight
5 and 10 lb compact iron hand weights
handheld propane torch
something to light the torch
Permatex 51813 anaerobic gasket maker (you can get it on amazon for 10 bucks)
red threadlocker (Loctite 271 permanent threadlocker or equivalent)
a pretty big bench vice to hold the torsen at various times
piece of aluminum I tell you how to machine in post 32
another piece of aluminum about 2.7" in diameter not much bigger not much smaller, and yes 2.75" is too big.
set of angled feeler gauges (may also be called valve feeler gauge)
A good set of calipers accurate to 0.001"
patience. No, seriously you need it.

Swap
(work in progress)
DIY engine brace, see my how-to thread: http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2202257#post2202257 (thanks to cosworth from FJ for the inspiration)

Torsen install / how to info post #'s, YMMV on the times to do stuff im pretty slow:
day 1 - post 17 (pulling the trans apart, taking the open diff out) ~2 hours
day 2 - post 19 (removing the ring gear) ~1 hour
day 3 - post 32 (removing the old bearing races and oil seals, and installing the new bearings on the torsen) ~4 hours
day 4 - post 34 (installing new races in the case sans shim, installing the ring gear on the Torsen, playing with the gear selector, closing up the case, checking the preload, measuring the shim) ~4 hours
day 5 - post 36 (buttoning up) ~2 hours

parts that I still need as of 7/9 (feel free to donate / ask me to buy yours):
NONE IM READY TO GO!!!!

so here goes, I have pics of all the parts I currently have. Turns out this part-out car had a LuK clutch on it thats supposedly only 5k miles old, so im gonna go with it and the throw-out bearing thats on there until the wifey learns how to drive stick better [;)] Plus this way I dont have to worry about the 500 mile break-in period while she's learning on it!! I will probably get a Spec stg 2 in the long run... but that's another conversation.

Trans and wiring harness, will need to splice in the reverse sensor and the vehicle speed sensor according to the diagram in boosted2nr's thread

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/12620513335.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8108542)

shifter cable bracket

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/12620513391.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8108543)

vehicle speed sensor on top the diff opening, rear mount bracket

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/12620513398.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8108544)

throw-out bearing / slave cylinder

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/12620513379.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8108545)

ouside of the slave cylinder, with the bleeder screw and pressure line input

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/12620513344.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8108546)

tripod upper mount in the bottom of the pic, selector mechanism taking up the right half of it, and the reverse sensor smack in the middle

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/12620513328.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8108547)

shifter

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/12620513491.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8108551)

bracket that shifter sits on

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/12620513496.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8108550)

shift cables

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/12620513439.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8108549)

brake/clutch reservoir with lines... auto trans on the right, manual trans on the left. note the nipple on the lower, right corner of the manual trans version that has the line coming off it...

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/12620513474.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8108553)

other end of the clutch pressure line - I need a new one this one was cut [:(]

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/12620513542.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8108559)

these clips are VERY important, they hold the lines into the clutch master cylinder

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/12620513535.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8108560)

clutch master cylinder

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/12620513516.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8108558)

I believe deez nutz hold the pedal box to the firewall

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/12620513526.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8108561)

pedal box

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/12620513581.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8108557)

clutch position sensor

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/12620513554.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8108556)

starter

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/12620513351.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8108548)

crank position sensor

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/12621134937.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8108680)

half of the carrier bearing mount... will update pic when I get the other half

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/12620513434.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8108555)

edit, here is the other half

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/13115202671.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8131314)

i believe these are bellhousing bolts

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/12620513428.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8108554)

I have no idea what these bolts are,someone please enlighten me

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/12620513660.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8108563)

clip for the clutch master cylinder

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/12620513653.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8108564)

I have no idea what these nuts are for, someone please enlighten me... the washer part spins on the nut part...

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/12620513517.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8108562)

overview of all that stuff

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/12620513651.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8108567)

and the next post will have clutch/flywheel pics and questions


edit, 6/30/08... got my Torsen!!

axle seal

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/6/18122250230.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8367689)

new, complete clutch pressure line

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/6/18122250290.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8367688)

Ford "honey"

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/6/18122250233.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8367687)

shift boot

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/6/18122250270.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8367686)

diff bearing

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/6/18122250320.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8367691)

VSS gear

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/6/18122250375.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8367690)

overview, you can see the torsen in the blue bag. more pics later [neener] i know im a tease lol

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/6/18122250282.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8367683)

so here is the combo

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/12620513645.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8108568)

the clutch fits nicely inside the flywheel

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/12620513673.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8108569)

**I need someone's opinion of how worn this thing is!!

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/12620513727.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8108571)

here is the flywheel side

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/12620513796.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8108572)

**pressure plate... opinions on wear???

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/12620513750.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8108570)

**aaaand the flywheel... how does it look??

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/12620513797.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8108573)

I should note that there are 3 locating dowels and 6 threaded holes on the flywheel. these 6 bolts go in those holes

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/12620513613.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8108565)

and these 6 bolts hold the flywheel to the crank

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/12620513687.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8108566)

but you should replace those^ the ARP's are only 30 bucks.

Looks like a fun job Pete, but it will be well worth it in the wagon.

oh lookin good!

Where are you doing this? Not in your driveway I hope?

haha no i was hoping we could do it on your lift sometime in July [poke]

well let me know how the torsen install goes. i will be needing one for winters,lol.

I will be posting LOTS of pics, part #'s, and how-to info on the Torsen [thumb]

if ur going to change the tranny, u might as well get new clutch/flywheel, that way u know for sure u dont have to change it out for awhile.

that the beauty of this one, it has 5,000 r so on it. thats not too much, and its been broken in already.

yes exactly, this one has low mileage on it, and my wife will be learning on it, so I dont want a brand new clutch to be pwnt by her madd skillz

besides, a new clutch install is no biggie for me... could be done in a few hours. So when the time comes a good clutch will go in [thumb]

oh haha i see, well in that case.

update

added parts and tools lists to the first post for ease of use of the thread

added pics of the other half of the intermediate shaft bearing and the crank position sensor



As far as the work goes, I expect to open the case tonight and pull out the stock diff. There is a good chance I will try to get the old bearings, shim, and VSS gear off tonight too. I will check the bearing preload once I have the shim off, but I may not get to this for a while, I have to figure out a way to mount a dial gage to the case. Time will tell how much gets done lol

sweetness pete, if am able id like to come down and watch, or help ya out, i know a few things, but not enough to do it by myself so yeah...cool cool cant wait!

illinipoo
i want to see this action

so how was the action?

got the case open and the diff out, nothing too exciting. pics/how-to:

So, i am doing work in... my closet. [:(] life sucks in an apartment. BUT I do have a shop that i can use 24/7 if I get in a pinch, like when I will be pressing bearings and such. So, for now, here is how i get to work:

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/13302004669.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8140034)

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/13302004646.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8140035)

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/13302004659.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8140036)

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/13302004687.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8140037)

its pretty tight... just enough room for one person on each side of the trans lol thanks Matt for the help tonight


First thing to do after removing the wire harness (hence the flathead screwdriver) and clutch pressure line (held in by a clip, same as the master cylinder clips pictured in the parts post) is brace the trans on its ass end. I used weights under the tripod mount and the diff because they were available and fit perfectly. Note that the differential side of it is heavier than the gears side.

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/13302004691.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8140038)

so, go around the case using a combo of the 10mm socket and wrench/hammer and ratchet wrench, first break loose all the bolts and then remove them. The shifter cable bracket is held on by two 17mm studs with a 15mm nut on the end. CAREFULLY so you dont damage the throw-out bearing and main oil seal, knock the top of the bellhousing with the mallet. you dont need to go nuts on it. Once you see it is loose, knock the bottom of it. then you can wiggle it (it helps to have someone hold the case while you pull the bellhousing) off of the two dowels that look like this

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/13302004715.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8140040)

you will have your bellhousing (notice how I put all the bolts back in their respectice holes for now)

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/13302004788.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8140046)

and also the case and gears

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/13302004624.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8140039)

OH MY GOODNESS look what Matt found [:(]

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/13302493634.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8140238)

that is NOT GOOD. he found it next to the bearing race. I have no idea where it came from. its about 3-4mm in diameter. [dunno]

here is what the end of the diff looked like where that piece was

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/13302004752.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8140041)

also apparently the oil seal was bad on this axle (this is rust!)

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/13302004733.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8140042)

so maybe that had something to do with it.

this thing is for sale if anyone wants/needs to go back to stock.

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/13302004754.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8140044)

So, like i said nothing exciting, that is where it sits, not enough time to try to get the bearings and VSS wheel off of there tonight. Probly gonna do it toward the end of the week. for now this is how it sits, under clean surgical towels to keep dust and dirt out (you should do this too):

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/13302004732.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8140045)

i'm still hoping we can find something missing that chunk of metal... and i'm hoping its cheaply replaceable. not knowing is the worst.

update

got started on dismantling the diff tonight. I had planned to get the bearing races out of the case but I forgot before i started to clean up... so, all i got to was getting the ring gear off.

Basically, I took a ratchet and a shallow 6-point 13mm socket, place the diff on my futon and pushed down on it while holding the ratchet on the bolts with my thumb, and hit the end of my ratchet pretty damn hard with my mallet. the torque is 60-something ftlbs so ya theyre on there. No pics of this part sorry.

next i got the ring gear off the diff, it really is a LIGHT press fit lol I was thinking you'd need a press, but it just slips on and off, prolly a 1 or 1/2 thousandth press, realllly tight. To get it off I lightly tapped the ring gear with my mallet.

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/13501202131.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8148541)

so ya heres everything

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/13501202119.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8148542)

LOOK AT ALL THAT ANTI-SEIZE!!! lol note to self, clean the ring gear and don't apply new anti-seize upon install onto new diff

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/13501202299.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8148543)

so here is how it sits

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/13501202268.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8148544)

dont forget to bag and label any loose bolts. And note that we will be using RED threadlocker on these bolts on the re-install.


Additionally I found a "decent" source of the bearing preload recommendation, it is 0.006-0.011 inches. But I will have to double-check that and post it in the first post when I am for sure.

woot my pedal covers came in, and I ordered my tach and the case sealant [thumb] also got the ball rolling on buying the Torsen and stuff

update before I go out of town for 3 weeks

got my tach installed, it works great. I love pin 48 [:D] take THAT tach driver [neener]

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/14521352946.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8196938)

also i got my quote on the torsen, bearings, VSS gear, shifter boot, clutch pressure line, and a couple other things... gonna be EXPENSIVE lol but totally worth it i cant wait [:D]

time is tight so nothing is gonna happen until 3 weeks from now so stay tuned.....

wow pete you picked an awesome spot for that tach. and it looks great like that. and much better tna my console mounetd one i had a long time a go. (playing with fiberglass,lol).

SUBSCRIBED! Good job. I think all ATX guys out there should subcribe to this thread, lol. I may do this swap down the road. Thanks for sharing.

ok i am back from my honeymoon and ready to get going on this project [:D]

one problem...

im having a hard time finding a clutch alignment tool. If anyone has one, PLEASE PM me i will give you 5 bucks shipped for it.

wee!! this project will turn out well.

Found a clutch tool, Some guy on that other site said he found a motormite part number 14510, 23x1" spline at Advance Auto Parts... But the one I found was a Dorman / Clutch-in! 14503... hope it fits!

cost 2.09 plus tax [thumb]

still no word on my parts order... I was told it would be here by Friday so heres to hopin for that [cheers]

Nice work!

thanks but its just a beginning lol this project is huuuuuuge

and in the midst of all this im building my first subwoofer box...

so ya im pretty busy right now lol and spending a lot of money on project supplies and tools... [read]

DIY engine brace is done [thumb] see thread for how to:

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2202257#post2202257

and it looks like im getting my Torsen on Monday according to UPS.

freaking gangster...this is gonna be awesome.

how close are you after the torsen? just assembly?

I have to press the VSS gear and the bearings, take out the old races and shim and oil seals from the case, put it together, check the preload, take it back apart, re-assemble with a shim, and then its swap time.

I updated the first post a lot, and added parts pics to the second post.

Okay, day 3 of the Torsen install.

It is a weekday. Why I chose to do this on a weekday is beyond me. it is 2AM and I have to go to work at 930 tomorrow. [?|]

So, first thing I did was make a new workspace for the next week or so. My wife is the best [cheers] we really need a bigger place...

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/6/18122250281.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8367685)

okay, swap info time. First things first REMOVE THE VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR. it is a T30 torx.

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/7/18203033432.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8368493)

next, heat up the side of the bearing race seat. Try to do it at least in two spots 180 degrees from each other. Oh, and dont do this indoors, even if you have to lug each half of the transmission down 1.5 flights of stairs to get to your lawn like I did after realizing (the hard way [?|]) how bad an idea it was to do this indoors... Dont set the trans' flange down on concrete (thats why I said lawn). Dont get any foreign matter in the trans.

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/7/18203033420.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8368494)

get it good and hot, it took me about 2 minutes of heating before it was a nice slide out. verrrrrrry carefully so you dont damage the shim nor the case, use a screwdriver in the Ford supplied tool holes to knock out the race. I need to stress how careful and gentle you must be. If it is not easy, use more heat.

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/7/18203033426.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8368495)

Getting the oil seal is similar, but easier, because you can just mash on the inner metal ring from inside the diff housing.

here are the remnants after one side, notice the shim on the far left:

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/7/18203033445.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8368496)

The other side works similarly. Except it is a lot heavier. lol

And now, the moment you've all been waiting for.... MY TORSEN!!! [:D]

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/7/18203033575.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8368497)

Find your VSS gear that Mike or Steve sent you. notice the two notches in the Torsen and corresponding dongles on the VSS gear.

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/7/18203033550.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8368498)
Assemble.

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/7/18203033587.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8368499)


This next part I only recommend YOU do if you:
A. Have a lathe and a chunk of 2" or greater diameter aluminum bar
B. Have a hefty mechanical press (I wouldnt use hydraulic for this)
C. Know how to properly operate these things.

If you can't answer yes to A, B, and C, then take your Torsen and the two bearings to a reputable shop to press them on for you. Make sure they dont press on the plastic. If they do, or if they scoff at you when you ask, go somewhere else.


If you can answer yes to A, B, and C, then make a press tool.

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/7/18203033532.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8368500)

It really should be made out of aluminum so you dont damage the bearings. Make it so that it wont touch the plastic part of the bearing, but can also slide on the output shaft of the Torsen. I believe my dimensions were 1.622" ID and 1.774" OD. Theres a really high tolerance, no biggie if its a little bigger or smaller. Also, it is a good idea to stagger the ID and OD to spread out the stress concentration. I did 3/8" in on the OD and 1/4" in on the ID. Test fit before you take it out of the chuck to avoid headaches and re-indexing...

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/7/18203033510.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8368502)

Now, for at least the first 1/2 of the press, you should use a real press not a hammer. This way it is easy to fix with a hammer if it is going on crooked.

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/7/18203033534.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8368501)

On the VSS side mine was a tad too tight (I was hanging my 180 lbs on the press and getting nowhere...) so I set the Torsen on a piece of cardboard that came in the box and "gently" showed the bearing who's boss. EDIT: to clarify, I hit the press tool as I pushed it against the bearing... i didnt just hit the bearing.

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/7/18203033518.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8368503)

In case anyone is wondering, "to spin or not to spin" was my last AX, that shirt was my 1st in class trophy for SMN [woot]

Be absolutely sure the bearings are ALL the way down. There should be a tiny lip of the output shaft showing.

So thats where the day ended. Took about 4 hours. A good day [:D] I love this stuff.

Goodnight, Torsen [:)]

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/7/18203033671.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8368504)

wooo! looks good man. i was also up late (installing the J&S)... and oops i still have to finish my 440 before class...

Day 4 of the Torsen install wooooot

So I started the 90 degree evening (ugh) with some sam adams and a bratwurst on my grill. and from then on i drank a ton of water. Today was hard work...

So i lugged both halves of the trans back downstairs again to install the new races. They basicaly go in like they came out, heat up the case and use a piece of aluminum to pound them in. Make sure theyre not going in crooked, if they are take it out VERY CAREFULLY like I told you how before and start over it will make your life a LOT easier. Do your best job at not touching the bearing surface of the race with any kind of metal (including aluminum).

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/7/18402433050.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8376846)

This is VERY important:

On the side of the case where the gears are, make sure the race is fully seated. You will hear a change in the sound it is making when you hammer on the aluminum piece you are using as a press tool.

on the lighter half of the case, where the VSS is, leave approximately 1/8" of the race showing. Make sure it is going in straight.

Gears side:
http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/7/18402433017.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8376845)

other side:
(no pic, sorry!)

So I got to this point and i was like, okay so i can throw it together now and do the ricer install on the preload check... or I can do it right and put the ring gear on. So I put the ring gear on. This was trip number 3 of 5 walking to the shop 2 blocks away tonight. What a waste of 45 minutes of walking...

anyway, grab your bag of ring gear bolts and head to your shop. to install the ring gear put it on the Torsen oriented correctly, and put the diff portion of the Torsen in your large vice (sorry no pics). Then put 4 bolts in holes that are spaced as evenly as possible. between 1/2 and 1 turn at a time, in a cross-pattern, tighten the bolts down to press the gear on. If you really have to crank on it, something is wrong. I only had to use about 15-20 ft lbs at this stage.

mark those bolts somehow. a tiny piece of paper that you can pick off the top of the bolt after youre done is best, so you dont get adhesive inside your trans.

Now, you need to work somewhat quickly. one by one, in a cross-pattern, apply some red threadlocker to a bolt and tighten it to 35 ft lbs. eventually you will have all the bolts in. remove the 4 you started on earlier, and one by one in a cross-pattern apply threadlocker and tighten to 35 ft lbs.

then, tighten to 50 ft lbs in a cross pattern

then, tighten to 65 ft lbs.

Pack it all up and go back to where your trans is. INSTALL YOUR TORSEN!!! [woot] [cheers]

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/7/18402433152.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8376847)

Set the trans up on weights like before, line up the dowels, and set the bellhousing down

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/7/18402433194.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8376848)

Use 5 of the case bolts to slooooowwwwwly close the case up, similar to pressing on the ring gear.

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/7/18402433182.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8376849)

Again I only had to use about 10 ft lbs. Use two bolts on the round part where the diff is. eventually it will close up and make a crunching noise. tighten all 5 bolts to 35 ft lbs.

Now you need your feeler gauges.

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/7/18402433173.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8376850)

Mine only went up to .030". So I did the ricer feeler gauge and doubled them up. It worked fine...

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/7/18402433191.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8376851)

okay, .055". Now go measure your shim you took out earlier with the calipers I told you to get.

.064".

YESSSSSS!!!!! [woot]

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/JennV1988/PartyTime.jpg

im happy because I dont need a new shim. Basically you can look at it like I wasted about 3 hours today lol

okay here is the math for figuring out your preload. 0.013" is the maximum recommended preload that I found. I also saw 0.011" somewhere, and 0.010" somewhere else, so if you have 11 or 12 or 13 thousandths of preload, you might want to get a new shim anyway. 0.004" is the minimum recommended preload I found. I also found 0.006". So, if you have anything less than 0.006", I would recommend you get a new shim.

Basically, according to my many searches, to be safe, use 0.006-0.010 inches of preload.

1. measure the space between the bearing and the bearing seat when the trans is put together as described above.

2. Add 0.010" to this number.

3. Add 0.006" to the number in #1.

3. Measure your shim.

4. If your shim is greater than the number in #2, you need a smaller shim. If your shim is smaller than the number in #3, you need a bigger shim. If your shim is in the middle like mine was (0.009" of preload) then you are golden.


okay, back to the overall install. You should have the two halves of the case back apart, and the bellhousing side should be ready and waiting for you to heat it up, remove the race, install the correct size shim, and re-install the race. But I didnt do that today lol thats for another day.... the last day... [:D]

[cheers]




EDIT, THIS IS BIG TIME IMPORTANT!!! according to this doc from Ford,

http://street-racing.lt/forum/viewthread.php?forum_id=16&thread_id=814&getfile=9422

the preload should be 0.013" on the diff!!

aaaalmost! :)

well, I suppose I should update on my progress this weekend...

not many pics, but theres no point. If you cant do this stuff you shouldnt have taken your trans apart...

started by removing the race from the bellhousing (yet again lol) getting it real good and hot

put the shim in, put the race back in most of the way with my piece of aluminum, it went in surprisingly easy...

Cleaned the mating surface with a towel that I sprayed brakleen on, then put a light bead maybe 1/16" of that anaerobic sealant on the surface.

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/7/18802261843.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic/8397260)

dropped the bellhousing down like before, started a few bolts a little at a time to press the bearing race down. Then went all the way around, and installed the cable bracket in the meantime. Then went around again to 30 ft.lbs.

Last thing to do is install the VSS with your T30 torx, and then install the oil seals with your plastic hammer (not done yet)... woo hoo! Torsen is done!!!

I still cant find the drain plug on this damn thing.... anybody got an idea where it is? lol

If it is the IB5 tranny there isin't a drain plug. The MTX-75's drainplug is on the bottom of the diff as it sits in the car.

ib5 [vommit]

lol

I wouldnt put a torsen in a ib5, the spi would never make enough power to use it [;)]

but thanks ill take a look for it.

hmm... still no luck on the plug

but I cut down my shifter 1.5"... and it actually looks and feels like a shifter now... [:D]

also ordered a new shift knob [thumb] but it wont get here till after the swap, which means ill be rollin with no shift boot for a few days w00t

you must be excited about this or something, going all out and changing your avatar!

I will be jacking up the car tomorrow to do brakes, I will make sure I get a picture or two and send them to you.

^ thank you so much!

and matt... yeah excited doesnt begin to touch on it.

I realized like yesterday just how big of a deal it is to have the Torsen... (and turbo isnt happening anytime soon...)

I really like mine as well, now I can spin both my tyres ;)

I really like mine as well, now I can spin both my tyres ;)
[nono] I think you meant to say "I really like mine as well, and because I get so much better grip, my tyres rarely spin anymore!" [;)]

PS: member #44, and only 146 posts! dangz!

That too!

okay, I found the stupid drain plug... its easier to get to if you remove the dogbone mount.

I leave for the swap in 2 days!!!

Dammit! And I took pics and everything!

aww sorry... [poke]

I appreciate it though, rep is on your way [thumb]

Sigh, ~30 hours until I leeeeavvveeeeee........

Thanks! I hope it goes well for ya!

man pete what a write up!

cant wait to see you get it all installed, im sure your gonna love it!

hello! [wave]

just got my clutch installed [woot] and taking a quick break. total work so far, about 15 hours. total work left, about 5 hours [:D]

woooorrd

5 hours [limp] yeah right. I have over 36 hours in this swap now and it is still not driving 100%

My shift selector is contacting the trans mount going into first, and it is running into the shift cable in 2-4-R.

I need some serious help here...

btw this is illinipo..... sorry!

I posted my solution to my similar problem in the other thread Illinipo.

I suppose everyone deserves an update.

I was sold a faulty transmission. When I bought it, I was told it was not shifting, but that the seller fixed it by moving the little springs on the shifter that goes in the car. I remember the shifter on the trans being sloppy when I picked it up that fateful day, but I was nonethewiser, since I had no clue that it was not supposed to be sloppy.

I didnt realize this until I got it in the car and tried to attach the cables. After two days of messing with it, a friend took me to a junkyard to play with another trans. Sure enough, there should be NO PLAY side-to-side in the selector mechanism when the trans is in neutral. Even though I was told the car drove for 5000 miles before removal, which is not true, I have no case against my seller since A) I was told that it wasnt shifting when I bought it and B) I had the trans open, and something I could have done may have caused the sloppy shifter. But, that is not possible, I never touched the gearset. Nothing i did could have caused this issue. It was assembled incorrectly, or with broken forks or a faulty selector.

I am pissed, but I have no choice but to chalk it up as a loss and start over.

I am going to properly rebuild this transmission and sell it. So I will have a 02.5-04 mtx75 for sale 3-4 weeks from now.

I am talking to a junkyard 4 hours away about a replacement transmission. The re-swap, which I have dubbed "mtx swap version 2.0", will happen August 1-3. Wish me luck.

here is the parts list, version 2.0

clutch/slave cylinder - bought new Exedy OEM from Focussport. Dont know the history of the clutch I bought, so I am taking it off and selling it cheap. Also the slave cylinder I bought leaks into the bellhousing.
flywheel - got another one for ease of resurfacing. wont have to do it that weekend.
resurfacing
swaybar endlinks - the boots on my old MOOG onesare falling apart. Mike@Hillbish is selling them for $11 each
tierod ends - broke the boots with my pickle fork. Need new ones.
axle seals - for thenew trans when ido the torsen swap
flywheel bolts - you cant re-use these. and theyre only 13 bucks.
master cyl - yes the master cylinder that I was sold is leaking all over my floor.
trans - duh.
gas to go get trans - this is a significant expense...
diff shim kit - in case the shim in the new trans is the wrong size. it is cheap insurance, since having the wrong shim would prolong Version 2.0 to a second weekend.


All to the tune of a mere $850. What a huge mistake.

Lesson learned: do not buy parts until you know the COMPLETE history of them.

that BLOWS. let me know if you need a hug. actually considering my recent loss, we should just hug it out together. lol

yes i have been feeling quite down about it. I felt sick to my stomach for 48 hours straight while i was figuring it out, and now im stressted out trying to deal with paying for all these parts. Each time I hit the place order button a part of me dies :( buying parts is much more fun when you save up for them and are excited about it...

you know its bad when you memorize your credit card number...

one week down, two to go. This is getting rough, last time I went without driving my car for more than 3 days was when I went to Italy for a month... that really sucked. if its this bad now, I dont even want to think about how it will feel a few weeks from now.

im gonna make a post about some of the swap procedure tips n tricks tonight i think. also going to make a swap tools list for the first post.

Parts wise, I have everything but my clutch and my transmission... going to get the trans on Friday and the clutch is coming on Thrusday. and then... 1 more week [?|]


also I have to say something about these front swaybar endlinks from Mike, theyre not MOOG but they are similarly built. Just better. At a lower price. $31 gets you a pair of endlinks that are stronger than stock, dont have any messy welds on the joints, and actually have a greasable, spring-clamp sealed joint, intead of the crappy floating boot that the MOOG's have. recommend to all [thumb] I will post comparo pics when I get the MOOG's off my car.

oh speaking of which im gonna have some pics to post later too. so itss looking like this is gonna be mtx swap thread night lol

srsly we need to have a we miss our cars rant sesh

new clutch is here

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/IMG_5579.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/IMG_5580.jpg

surprizingly small disc... lets hope Randy wasnt talking out of his ass when he said these things are holding 220whp on duratecs!

oh looks pretty!!! If they say it should hold lets hope it will!

well the car drives. and it drives well. ...better than well. This thing is damn fast.

no comparo pics of those endlinks... but if someone wants I can snap some pics of the ones on my car. they work great, but I recommend getting a right-angle grease zerk as it took me about a half hour per side to get my grease gun fitting onto the top zerk. what a pain.

Also, ATE superblue is AMAZING brake fluid. SO MUCH more brake feel now [:D]

And the Torsen... zomg. wtfbbq. holy crap it is awesome. its like, you turn. and smash on the gas in the middle of the turn. and you get no wheelspin, you just pull through the turn. it is just... amazing.


As it turns out I cannot edit posts that are 3+ months old, so hopefully people read this far to get more info. im gonna post some swap tips n tricks later.


oh one more thing. I have pics of what is wrong with the old trans that will be posted. Basically, there was once a roll pin in the selector. It is no longer there. Fail.

Matt you remember that piece or two of metal we found in the diff bearings? yeah im pretty sure that was the roll pin after climbing aboard the massive failboat.

And of course, I have some swap weekend and swap ver 2.0 weekend pics to share. but I wont get to those until sunday, im not at home right now. Very happy and proud to say that my car made it 150 miles from home this weekend, including a 45-minute bout with traffic [:)]

More troubleshooting:

I have 7 CEL's

p0705 tran rng s cir er
p0713 tran fld tmp s ckt hi in
p0750 sft noid a er
p0760 sft noid c er
p0765 sft noid d er
p0770 sft noid e er
p1746 epc noid open circuit

p0705 and p1746 are easy to fix.

p0705: find the wiring for the selector input to the PCM, and feed it 12V ignition source. I will post up wire colors and locations.

p1746: take a 100-ohm resistor, find the EPC wires, and connect them with a resistor. If there is only one wire, then connect that wire to ground through the resistor. I will post up wire colors and locations for this too.


p0173 is a little trickier. im pretty sure its a thermocouple inside the trans, which means I have to wire something to have a low voltage drop on the temperature circuit. One solution is simply to short the wires to ground. I still have to find which wires to use and whatnot... so stay posted. I should be able to figure it out though. I plan on datalogging it when im done to see what the trans temp is reading at.


all of the rest of the codes must be turned off with a tune or a new ECU. Sucks but oh well.

okay, so here are some little things that i learned while doing the swap and not while reading the forums...


if you havent had your struts out in a while, be prepared to spend a good hour getting them out.

once again I stress the ease of my method for removing the axles. Take the struts out, and remove the tie rod ends. Theres a good chance you'll mess up the boot on the tie rod end... but it is much cheaper than a control arm, and much easier to replace than the axle nut, which must be torqued to 216 ft lbs [ohcrap].

this one is huge, nobody ever mentions it... After removing the black HVAC pieces, you have to cut into your butyl liner to get to the shift cable bracket in the interior. There is no way around it. You will lose some insulation properties (IE your car will get colder faster in the winter and hotter faster int the summer) and also it will be noisier on the road. If you cut just one slit closer to the passenger side and bend it back, it minimizes the damage.

MAKE SURE your gear selector on the trans does not flop around when its in neutral. up and down is ok. side to side is BAD.

If you have yellow shift cable adjusters (an im sorry if you do, they are a pain) push up on the tab from inside the hole. You will see what i mean when you try it. The red ones are much easier, just push it down.

the clutch has TWO clutch position sensors. one of them is for the start inhibit circuit. this is the one connected near the master cylinder. The other is for the PCM control of the IACV, and also for the cruise control module to know when to turn off. If you have one of these for sale, I need one.

My brake pedal did not reach the brake switches. basically, my brake lights were always on and my cruise control did not work. a mixture of a metal plate, some tape, and a couple zip ties did the trick.

See Post 63 for CEL issues. I will continue to update as I work on them.

The rear bleeder screws and the slave cylinder bleeder are an 11mm nut. Make sure you have one of these wrenches, its a pretty rare size. Fronts are 9mm.

We had a cherry picker the second time through... I dont know if it helped or not. I think it did.

if using a chain-type engine brace like mine, remove the fans instead of dropping the subframe. MUCH easier, takes 2 minutes. Then all you have to do is pry the engine forward while someone else moves the trans. It helps if you can angle the engine with eye-bolts like on my brace.

when removing or inserting the trans, clock it about 30 degrees counterclockwise, and stick the diff over the K-member. clock it back once it clears the pressure plate.

taking the driver side axle out of the mtx is much more challenging. We happened to have a perfectly shaped piece of 12ga steel sitting around. popped right out with a good whack. The steel piece looked like a sliver of the moon as it is waning.

Sleep. You may not want to, but you need to. so sleep. even if its only for 3 hours.

Drink. We got massively dehydrated both times. no fun when trying to work.

Eat. we also didnt eat much. bad idea.

number your bellhousing bolts. make a diagram so you know which one goes where and in what direction.

dont forget the ground wire for the transmission, it goes into the topmost starter bolt before you thread it in.

dont forget to plug your fans back in. definitely almost overheated my engine.

careful about one of the throw-out bearing bolts. it is hiding behind the TOB, and hard to get squared on with a socket. I rounded it off on one of my bellhousings...

To bleed the clutch, a mityvac is almost required. open the bleeder, pump the mityvac, and have someone pump the clutch. eventually you will get fluid and can just use the mityvac.

Tighten your swaybar endlinks while the suspension is loaded. use a jack to load the lower control arm while the car is in the air so you can reach.


...i think thats all. at least its good for now. I might add more later.

this one is huge, nobody ever mentions it... After removing the black HVAC pieces, you have to cut into your butyl liner to get to the shift cable bracket in the interior. There is no way around it. You will lose some insulation properties (IE your car will get colder faster in the winter and hotter faster int the summer) and also it will be noisier on the road. If you cut just one slit closer to the passenger side and bend it back, it minimizes the damage.

When I did mine there was a little piece of liner wrapped around my shift cables which was bolted down with two bolts (I believe they were 8mm but could be 10mm) and the new shift cables also had a similar piece. I am not sure what you are talking about cutting, do you have pics?

I love my LSD as well, I just put new paws on and my god can I corner under power now. My next addition is going to be the racing header and possibly the intake manifold.


That's awesome you got it working! I know how good it feels! Best of luck with the little things.

dang pete!! been away with my wife. looks like we need to meet up! my friend jerome actually just put a Torsen in his little Miata... its fun, especially in the rain.

matt

here are some picts from Version 1.0, version 2.0 pics will go up later tonight if I get around to them

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/ver%201%20pics/DSC04001.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/ver%201%20pics/DSC04002.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/ver%201%20pics/DSC04004.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/ver%201%20pics/DSC04015.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/ver%201%20pics/DSC04019.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/ver%201%20pics/DSC04022.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/ver%201%20pics/DSC04030.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/ver%201%20pics/DSC04036.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/ver%201%20pics/DSC04040.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/ver%201%20pics/DSC04046.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/ver%201%20pics/DSC04048.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/ver%201%20pics/DSC04051.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/ver%201%20pics/DSC04060.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/ver%201%20pics/DSC04065.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/ver%201%20pics/DSC04068.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/ver%201%20pics/DSC04070.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/ver%201%20pics/DSC04073.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/ver%201%20pics/DSC04085.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/ver%201%20pics/DSC04086.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/ver%201%20pics/DSC04091.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/ver%201%20pics/DSC04093.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/ver%201%20pics/DSC04095.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/ver%201%20pics/DSC04097.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/ver%201%20pics/DSC04098.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/ver%201%20pics/DSC04099.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/ver%201%20pics/DSC04101.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/ver%201%20pics/DSC04103.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/ver%201%20pics/DSC04106.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/ver%201%20pics/DSC04109.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/ver%201%20pics/DSC04110.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/ver%201%20pics/DSC04121.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/ver%201%20pics/DSC04122.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/ver%201%20pics/DSC04126.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/ver%201%20pics/DSC04127.jpg

bad-ass.

i literally have tears on my face because i didnt come.

... still need a ride in the wagon ...

PS: My clutch now slips in 6th gear when I get on it at about 3k.

wow so apparently i didnt take too many pics during version 2.0... just wanted to get it done.

the mtx doesnt have as much clearance to get to the axle... not nearly as much... luckily (and i do mean LUCKILY) we found this perfectly shaped piece of stiff steel...

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/ver%202%20pics/IMG_5585.jpg


this is what happens when i meet an axle seal that does not want to cooperate

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/ver%202%20pics/IMG_5590.jpg

Torsen swap ftw

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/ver%202%20pics/IMG_5588.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/ver%202%20pics/IMG_5592.jpg




So, the moment of truth. i got it on the ground and took it apart to figure out whats wrong. See the roll pin in this pic?

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/ver%202%20pics/IMG_5586_arrow.jpg


yeah, definitely NOT THERE in the old tranny.

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/ver%202%20pics/IMG_5587_arrow.jpg


me = PISSED OFF.


but it is over now, and i can fix it.

To bad I wasnt around much for v2.0


Glad you got it done! Must be nice to have your car back, wish I knew what that felt like still waiting on mine..................

geez matt... i was just looking at this pic and it totally ruined my day. (pretty sure this was my roll pin...)

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/13302493634.jpg


anyway, i have about 600 miles on everything and its all running great! STILL no word from my tuner it has been three weeks and no returned phone call... thinking about just going ahead and buying the PRP and a wideband... but then i will be in the doghouse for a few months if you know what i mean

yeah I gotcha. I say "prp ftw." I just got a fidanza flywheel from a guy on here for $200... just emailed andy about using it with a southbend clutch... mine is still getting worse.

time for an OH #&^$ moment.

according to this doc from Ford (pg 45)

http://street-racing.lt/forum/viewthread.php?forum_id=16&thread_id=814&getfile=9422

the preload should be 0.013".

I have .007. Hopefully nothing goes wrong.

wooooooooooooooooooooot

thanks to user blivit (Mike R at SCT) I now have a correct speed reading going to my PCM, and all my solenoids are turned off.

[race]

Just have some wiring to figure out: trans range sensor, trans temp sensor, turbine shaft sensor.

har har!

well... here it is.... it has been dubbed "the roll pin" on fordcontour.org.... I now know why

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/IMG_5631.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/IMG_5629.jpg


This is where it SHOULD be right now... unbroken...

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/IMG_5624.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/IMG_5628.jpg


and here are some selector pics for those interested. its really cool to see the gate design. Notably how the gates are shaped so you can easily go 2->3 and 4->5. Also notice the cam that doesnt allow you to go to reverse from 5th. Kinda makes your reverse lockout looks silly doesnt it?

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/IMG_5617.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/IMG_5618.jpg

you must LOVE transmissions.

i cant see any pics :'(

oh i been gettin down with some trannys yo

seriously tho between Baja and this project i can look at the inside of any tranmission and know whats going on. it is cool.


and Josh, sorry man dont know what to tell you... try looking at my photobucket albums

http://s212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/

http://s212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/ver%201%20pics/

http://s212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/ver%202%20pics/

Dude! I wish you lived closer so you could help me out with my swap.... I can see that you love working on your car just like me, against all odds and no matter what destiny throws at you. You just keep fixing it.

yeah... pretty much.... man you got me all figured out [hihi]

its not just my car either i pulled someones motor with them and im doing someones clutch with them just for fun :) also installing another Torsen in a getrag. Man that is a little bit of work, but so so worth it.

pete rocks. :)

[thankyou]

lol

I got rid of 2 out of 8 DTC's tonight. I will post up a how-to PDF on getting rid of all the codes when I am done.

There is a catch though, you NEED to have the atx functions turned off in a tune and you NEED to have your OSS parameter changed to 26.

If you do what I just did tonight while the atx functions are still on, your idle will be high (or possibly low, depending how it handles it) and your PCM will still pull timing to "shift" randomly.

aw crap. the 2 i got rid of last night came back, I am not doing it right. more work and thinking to do on those.

But I did some reading and found some great documents that helped me out.

I got rid of 2 today over lunch, the EPC and TFT sensor codes. it was pretty simple, just had to know which wire was which.

assuming everything else goes as smoothly as that just went I should be able to knock out 4 of the remaining 6. And then the two for the TSS will be more interesting.

ok i gave up on the CEL's

solenoids C D and E are still giving errors after grounding their signal wires with a resistor between the connector and the battery ground. dont know what else i can do. I tried different size resistors to no avail.

the turbine speed sensor is still giving 2 errors because i am not sending a pulsed signal back on the return wire. cant figure out how to do this other than tap into the crank sensor wire... which i dont want to do.

finally the range sensor error is a pain because there are different wires for P/N, D, and R, and I would have to set up relays for when i shift into R. More trouble than its worth since i will never get rid of the others.

So the plan now is to unplug the CEL bulbs and just periodically check codes with my xcal.

When i get the PRP I will be able to play around with the tune and rid the codes for good but for now this will have to do. :(

awh, don't worry too much, i'm almost used to mine now. ;P

For anyone looking for the roll pin in the selector, it is mcmaster part # 95765A516

I got a 10 pack for a little over $17 shipped. Going to replace it annually...

ok im going to post this here too, it is in boosted2nr's thread but people keep missing it.

here is the link to the wiring diagram / guide for mtx swap. Thanks to gigaherz on FJ.

http://www.mediafire.com/?x2hwbbihxzn

if you have any wiring questions just ask me.

So that is pretty amazing that you did this and had a really nice write up. I already have a mtx-75 but this was still fun to read as i know nothing about transmissions.

Well here is a torsen install how-to video i did for an SVT. Everything is the same for the mtx-75 except that the 75 likes a bit more preload, and the bearings have to be pressed on further.

28 minutes in 3 parts.


Part 1
OUjedw1NbcQ

Part 2
VC1C5K-1AbU

Part 3
NMjZ_IVHSIY

Hey did you ever figure out your CEL Codes?

Im really debating on doing this swap on my 05 ZX3 the ECU and Wiring Scares me tho.

I have not. But, I have the SCT PRP on the way. If I figure them out I will tell everyone what to tell their tuner to do to get them to turn off.

Another option you have is to get a computer from a mtx car and take it to Ford to get your PATS flashed to it. This would be pain-free, except the price.

major props on the t2 and the mtx swap!

would an MTX computer plug right into a ATX Harness?

As far as I know, yes people have done it before, but I have no direct experience with it. I have a suspicion that a few of the wires are different, so I'm not positive that it would work. You may need to change the harness if you change computers.

if u had to change the whole harness that would be just as much work as a engine swap.

not quite, haha!

I'll assume you haven't done either of those things... the focus harness is really not that complicated. You'd probably just have to change parts of it anyway

matt... you would need to rip the dash out and replace the dash harness...

psh.

okay that does sound like a big pain. you could try to cut & solder the mtx to fit the original interior harness... but that sounds like a pain too

that's what I did. there are only 3 things to solder, i think 6 solders in total.

What is there to solder exactly?

Look at post #88 for a link to the wiring how-to

aiight got it.
Thanks

not quite, haha!

I'll assume you haven't done either of those things... the focus harness is really not that complicated. You'd probably just have to change parts of it anyway

I have done an Engine change b4 it was the same Engine just built tho so it was out with the old and in with the new sand conet it all together. So if i was to get a Donner Car with the MTX, Harness, and ECU what would need to be done to swap it. i mean as far as the harness? the tranny is the simple part.

I really don't know, pete (illinipo) can probably help you though.

like i said earlier you would have to rip the dash out and exchange all of the wiring and a few of the sensors. Essentially just make one look like the other... and then exchange the transmission harness which has speed, reverse, etc on it

Dont forget the crank position sensor mount and to use new flywheel bolts.

like i said earlier you would have to rip the dash out and exchange all of the wiring and a few of the sensors. Essentially just make one look like the other... and then exchange the transmission harness which has speed, reverse, etc on it

Dont forget the crank position sensor mount and to use new flywheel bolts.

That whole dash part just sounds like a complete PITA!
I'm just gonna start ColectingParts and all and ill eventually decide on what method I'm gonna go with.

I just finished my swap and the guide here and boosted's guide were priceless. I would not have been able to do it without either of them. And big thanks to Illinipo, I owe you a crab dinner if you're ever in AK. Here's a few small things that I noticed when I did my swap:

- Brake light switch. My pedal box came out of a '00 and went into an '03. The brake light sensor (it's the black sensor on the bottom) from one of them was too short to reach the pedal, resulting in my brake lights being on no matter what. Not sure if this is a atx-to-mtx issue or a '00 to '03 issue.
- Axles. Just as the guides have said, I was able to use my atx axles with my mtx no prob. I had mtx axles, and they are not actually the same. The driveshaft of the mtx axle was slightly thicker than those from the atx. Only difference. Totally interchangable.
- Crankshaft position sensor. Don't just change the sensor, change it's housing. MUST BE DONE WITH THE FLYWHEEL OFF. Don't put the new tranny in so to take it back out.
- Axle nuts are 32mm. They don't need to be removed for this, but it's a nice thing to remember.
- Shifter boot. I can't find one yet. All the junk yards want me to buy the entire center console. BAH!
- Illinipo and boosted2nr. Don't forget to give them MAD PROPS!!!!

~Joe

brake light switch, yeah I had the same problem, dont rmemeber if I ever posted up about it. I messed around with a few methods of sticking things on the plate on the pedal arm, until finally i RTV'd a piece of metal onto it (its what i had laying around at the moment, lol). Its been workin for a long time now.

hm, axles little bit thicker, i guess they planned on some more torque. Kinda scary for me actually (i'm uh... modified).

yeah no need for axle nut anything, just remove the knuckle off the strut and the tie rod end from the knuckle and thats it!

I dont know how bad shipping is to alaska, but steve or mike have the shifter boots for about 10 bucks.

- Axle nuts are 32mm. They don't need to be removed for this, but it's a nice thing to remember.


How did you remove the halfshafts without removing the nut?

you dont need to take the shafts out of the knuckle!

there is plenty of range of motion in the balljoint that once you have the knuckle off of the strut and the tie rod end removed, the axles will come out of the trans.

Just be careful not to use the brake lines to hold everything up!

hmmmm never thought of trying that. I didn't remove the knuckle off of the strut, I pulled the balljoint which is a PITA. Live and learn!

yeah whenever i see a thread about someone pulling the balljoint and removing the axle nut to get axles out of the trans i just cringe. Even when i tell them some people dont listen. With this method you can have the axles out of the trans in less than an hour (assuming some stuck bolts).

I wish we had this 'chat' 2 weeks ago, I just replaced an axle seal and broke my balljoint tool in the process.

oh that's the one thing about my method, you have to rent the smaller "tie rod separator" from autozone for $10. Ive used it so much i just decided to keep it last time around.

I haven't had a problem getting my tie rod off. I replaced it due to some damage a couple of years ago and its never been a problem.

maybe you dont understand, if you actually remove the tie rod END from the knuckle (not the tie rod from the end) you dont have to worry about your alignment being off when you put it back together.

I think I'm understanding... you mean to undo the bolt which attaches the tierod end to the nuckle. I just used a good size wrench and an alan key, came right off.

that is weird, it is supposed to be pressed into the knuckle when you tighten it.

might not be a good thing then...

I remember when I took it off it took a bit of effort to get it out of the knuckle, but i didn't have to use a hammer, just a wack or two with the wrench was it.

As far as removing the ball joint so that you can lower the control arm... In Chilton's they wrap a small loop of chain around the end of the control arm near the knuckle, which is what I did. You then use a prybar using the subframe as a fulcrom, and push down on the other end of the prybar. I have a 5' prybar that I use for popping frozen dog houses loose, so that worked well for me. On one car, I simply had to push down on the prybar to pop the balljoints loose. But on my car, I was literally jumping up and down on the end of the prybar like I was on a trampolene. Had to use a few blocks of wood to repo the fulcrum end of the prybar. Worked like a charm after that. I didn't have to undo my struts, just loosed the 3 mounting bolts at the top.

~Joe

its really not necessary to mess around with the LCA, just pulling the strut and tie rod end is a thousand times easier.

Ah, just checking in here to say I've read the entire thread here. Excellent, detailed, just sweet. Now, about those missing pics... ;_P

--Scott

Which ones?

wish you live near me..you got a job..

I have a lot of leave, if you want to fly me out somewhere. Im always up for a vacation [:)] Heck maybe youre close enough I can drive?

Got some questions on the tranny verbage and location.

1. Race?
2. Shims location?
3. Preload? Measured from what to what?

I am mechanically inclined but this one has me confused

CRAP. my old image host got shut down. And those posts are too old to edit. OK, when i get back from vacation im going to re-do all the posts with the missing images.

1. This is a taper-roller bearing. The races of bearings are the inner and outer metal pieces. On a taper-roller, the inner race is assembled on the bearing. You have to press the outer race into whatever it is youre rolling on. The outer races in this pic are standing up behind the bearings.

http://www.minisport.com/acatalog/GHK1548.jpg

2. Here are some shims. They go between the race and the transmission case on the passenger side (bellhousing side) of the diff. These are what give you preload.

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/BOC/IMG_5786.jpg

3. Look at post #34 for how to calculate preload. Taper-rollers need a load on them in order for them to roll, and not just slide. This is whats called preload. You use different size shims to change the preload. Too much preload, and youll wear the bearing really quickly. Not enough, the bearing will slide and wear very quickly.

hey pete, what all was needed for the pedal part of this? do u need to replace the brake booster? also were did u get your pedal assebmly from? and how much did it cost?

The booster was not an issue for me, but I dont know if the contour pedals have the same connection.

I got the pedals with a whole bunch of other stuff. Including the broken transmission. [mad]

well i'm gonna use focus pedals and clutch line. so every thing on that part should be pretty much the same as yours. just trying to figureo ut what all u had to change?

step 1 remove atx pedals

step 2 remove the rubber piece covering the master cyl holes

step 3 install master cyl on pedals

step 4 install mtx pedals

sweet! good to know. now to make a call to mike, i mean bill! and see what these pedals are gonna cost me.

CRAP. my old image host got shut down. And those posts are too old to edit. OK, when i get back from vacation im going to re-do all the posts with the missing images.

1. This is a taper-roller bearing. The races of bearings are the inner and outer metal pieces. On a taper-roller, the inner race is assembled on the bearing. You have to press the outer race into whatever it is youre rolling on. The outer races in this pic are standing up behind the bearings.

http://www.minisport.com/acatalog/GHK1548.jpg

2. Here are some shims. They go between the race and the transmission case on the passenger side (bellhousing side) of the diff. These are what give you preload.

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/BOC/IMG_5786.jpg

3. Look at post #34 for how to calculate preload. Taper-rollers need a load on them in order for them to roll, and not just slide. This is whats called preload. You use different size shims to change the preload. Too much preload, and youll wear the bearing really quickly. Not enough, the bearing will slide and wear very quickly.

Ok, So the Race is where the bearings rest on in simpler terms? and the shims just puts the proper spacing?

Yeah basically.
Posted via FF Mobile

ok im going to be re-posting pics for the next couple of posts. the format will be the same as the old posts, I am just going to quote the posts with missing pics.

post #2

so here goes, I have pics of all the parts I currently have. Turns out this part-out car had a LuK clutch on it thats supposedly only 5k miles old, so im gonna go with it and the throw-out bearing thats on there until the wifey learns how to drive stick better [;)] Plus this way I dont have to worry about the 500 mile break-in period while she's learning on it!! I will probably get a Spec stg 2 in the long run... but that's another conversation.

Trans and wiring harness, will need to splice in the reverse sensor and the vehicle speed sensor according to the diagram in boosted2nr's thread

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/img_4542.jpg

shifter cable bracket

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/img_4544.jpg

vehicle speed sensor on top the diff opening, rear mount bracket

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/img_4546.jpg

throw-out bearing / slave cylinder

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/img_4548.jpg

ouside of the slave cylinder, with the bleeder screw and pressure line input

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/img_4551.jpg

tripod upper mount in the bottom of the pic, selector mechanism taking up the right half of it, and the reverse sensor smack in the middle

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/img_4552.jpg

shifter

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/img_4557.jpg

bracket that shifter sits on

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/img_4556.jpg

shift cables

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/img_4555.jpg

brake/clutch reservoir with lines... auto trans on the right, manual trans on the left. note the nipple on the lower, right corner of the manual trans version that has the line coming off it...

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/img_4560.jpg

other end of the clutch pressure line - I need a new one this one was cut [:(]

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/img_4558.jpg

these clips are VERY important, they hold the lines into the clutch master cylinder

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/img_4568.jpg

clutch master cylinder

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/img_4565.jpg

I believe deez nutz hold the pedal box to the firewall

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/img_4569.jpg

pedal box

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/img_4564.jpg

clutch position sensor

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/img_4563.jpg

starter

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/img_4554.jpg

crank position sensor

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/img_4588.jpg

half of the carrier bearing mount... will update pic when I get the other half

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/img_4562.jpg

edit, here is the other half

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/img_4591.jpg

i believe these are bellhousing bolts

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/img_4571.jpg

I have no idea what these bolts are,someone please enlighten me

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/img_4573.jpg

clip for the clutch master cylinder

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/img_4572.jpg

I have no idea what these nuts are for, someone please enlighten me... the washer part spins on the nut part...

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/img_4570.jpg

overview of all that stuff

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/img_4576.jpg

and the next post will have clutch/flywheel pics and questions


edit, 6/30/08... got my Torsen!!

axle seal

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/IMG_5514.jpg

new, complete clutch pressure line

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/IMG_5512.jpg

Ford "honey"

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/IMG_5510.jpg

shift boot

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/IMG_5509.jpg

diff bearing

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/IMG_5516.jpg

VSS gear

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/IMG_5515.jpg

overview, you can see the torsen in the blue bag. more pics later [neener] i know im a tease lol

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/IMG_5502.jpg

Post #3

so here is the combo

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/img_4577.jpg

the clutch fits nicely inside the flywheel

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/img_4578.jpg

**I need someone's opinion of how worn this thing is!!

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/img_4580.jpg

here is the flywheel side

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/img_4584.jpg

**pressure plate... opinions on wear???

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/img_4579.jpg

**aaaand the flywheel... how does it look??

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/img_4587.jpg

I should note that there are 3 locating dowels and 6 threaded holes on the flywheel. these 6 bolts go in those holes

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/img_4573.jpg

and these 6 bolts hold the flywheel to the crank

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/img_4574.jpg

but you should replace those^ the ARP's are only 30 bucks.

Post #17

so how was the action?

got the case open and the diff out, nothing too exciting. pics/how-to:

So, i am doing work in... my closet. [:(] life sucks in an apartment. BUT I do have a shop that i can use 24/7 if I get in a pinch, like when I will be pressing bearings and such. So, for now, here is how i get to work:

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/diff/img_4592.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/diff/img_4594.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/diff/img_4595.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/diff/img_4596.jpg

its pretty tight... just enough room for one person on each side of the trans lol thanks Matt for the help tonight


First thing to do after removing the wire harness (hence the flathead screwdriver) and clutch pressure line (held in by a clip, same as the master cylinder clips pictured in the parts post) is brace the trans on its ass end. I used weights under the tripod mount and the diff because they were available and fit perfectly. Note that the differential side of it is heavier than the gears side.

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/diff/img_4597.jpg

so, go around the case using a combo of the 10mm socket and wrench/hammer and ratchet wrench, first break loose all the bolts and then remove them. The shifter cable bracket is held on by two 17mm studs with a 15mm nut on the end. CAREFULLY so you dont damage the throw-out bearing and main oil seal, knock the top of the bellhousing with the mallet. you dont need to go nuts on it. Once you see it is loose, knock the bottom of it. then you can wiggle it (it helps to have someone hold the case while you pull the bellhousing) off of the two dowels that look like this

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/diff/img_4606.jpg

you will have your bellhousing (notice how I put all the bolts back in their respectice holes for now)

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/diff/img_4609.jpg

and also the case and gears

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/diff/img_4598.jpg

OH MY GOODNESS look what Matt found [:(]

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/diff/img_4600.jpg

that is NOT GOOD. he found it next to the bearing race. I have no idea where it came from. its about 3-4mm in diameter. [dunno]

here is what the end of the diff looked like where that piece was

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/diff/img_4601.jpg

also apparently the oil seal was bad on this axle (this is rust!)

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/diff/img_4603.jpg

so maybe that had something to do with it.

this thing is for sale if anyone wants/needs to go back to stock.

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/diff/img_4607.jpg

So, like i said nothing exciting, that is where it sits, not enough time to try to get the bearings and VSS wheel off of there tonight. Probly gonna do it toward the end of the week. for now this is how it sits, under clean surgical towels to keep dust and dirt out (you should do this too):

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/diff/img_4608.jpg

Post #19

update

got started on dismantling the diff tonight. I had planned to get the bearing races out of the case but I forgot before i started to clean up... so, all i got to was getting the ring gear off.

Basically, I took a ratchet and a shallow 6-point 13mm socket, place the diff on my futon and pushed down on it while holding the ratchet on the bolts with my thumb, and hit the end of my ratchet pretty damn hard with my mallet. the torque is 60-something ftlbs so ya theyre on there. No pics of this part sorry.

next i got the ring gear off the diff, it really is a LIGHT press fit lol I was thinking you'd need a press, but it just slips on and off, prolly a 1 or 1/2 thousandth press, realllly tight. To get it off I lightly tapped the ring gear with my mallet.

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/diff/img_4624.jpg

so ya heres everything

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/diff/img_4625.jpg

LOOK AT ALL THAT ANTI-SEIZE!!! lol note to self, clean the ring gear and don't apply new anti-seize upon install onto new diff

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/diff/img_4626.jpg

so here is how it sits

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/diff/img_4628.jpg

dont forget to bag and label any loose bolts. And note that we will be using RED threadlocker on these bolts on the re-install.


Additionally I found a "decent" source of the bearing preload recommendation, it is 0.006-0.011 inches. But I will have to double-check that and post it in the first post when I am for sure.

Post #32

I updated the first post a lot, and added parts pics to the second post.

Okay, day 3 of the Torsen install.

It is a weekday. Why I chose to do this on a weekday is beyond me. it is 2AM and I have to go to work at 930 tomorrow. [?|]

So, first thing I did was make a new workspace for the next week or so. My wife is the best [cheers] we really need a bigger place...

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/diff/IMG_5545.jpg

okay, swap info time. First things first REMOVE THE VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR. it is a T30 torx.

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/diff/IMG_5518.jpg

next, heat up the side of the bearing race seat. Try to do it at least in two spots 180 degrees from each other. Oh, and dont do this indoors, even if you have to lug each half of the transmission down 1.5 flights of stairs to get to your lawn like I did after realizing (the hard way [?|]) how bad an idea it was to do this indoors... Dont set the trans' flange down on concrete (thats why I said lawn). Dont get any foreign matter in the trans.

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/diff/IMG_5520.jpg

get it good and hot, it took me about 2 minutes of heating before it was a nice slide out. verrrrrrry carefully so you dont damage the shim nor the case, use a screwdriver in the Ford supplied tool holes to knock out the race. I need to stress how careful and gentle you must be. If it is not easy, use more heat.

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/diff/IMG_5522.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/diff/IMG_5541.jpg

Getting the oil seal is similar, but easier, because you can just mash on the inner metal ring from inside the diff housing.

here are the remnants after one side, notice the shim on the far left:

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/diff/IMG_5524.jpg

The other side works similarly. Except it is a lot heavier. lol

And now, the moment you've all been waiting for.... MY TORSEN!!! [:D]

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/diff/IMG_5525.jpg

Find your VSS gear that Mike or Steve sent you. notice the two notches in the Torsen and corresponding dongles on the VSS gear.

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/diff/IMG_5527.jpg

Assemble.

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/diff/IMG_5531.jpg


This next part I only recommend YOU do if you:
A. Have a lathe and a chunk of 2" or greater diameter aluminum bar
B. Have a hefty mechanical press (I wouldnt use hydraulic for this)
C. Know how to properly operate these things.

If you can't answer yes to A, B, and C, then take your Torsen and the two bearings to a reputable shop to press them on for you. Make sure they dont press on the plastic. If they do, or if they scoff at you when you ask, go somewhere else.


If you can answer yes to A, B, and C, then make a press tool.

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/diff/IMG_5532.jpg

It really should be made out of aluminum so you dont damage the bearings. Make it so that it wont touch the plastic part of the bearing, but can also slide on the output shaft of the Torsen. I believe my dimensions were 1.622" ID and 1.774" OD. Theres a really high tolerance, no biggie if its a little bigger or smaller. Also, it is a good idea to stagger the ID and OD to spread out the stress concentration. I did 3/8" in on the OD and 1/4" in on the ID. Test fit before you take it out of the chuck to avoid headaches and re-indexing...

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/diff/IMG_5534.jpg

Now, for at least the first 1/2 of the press, you should use a real press not a hammer. This way it is easy to fix with a hammer if it is going on crooked.

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/diff/IMG_5533.jpg

On the VSS side mine was a tad too tight (I was hanging my 180 lbs on the press and getting nowhere...) so I set the Torsen on a piece of cardboard that came in the box and "gently" showed the bearing who's boss. EDIT: to clarify, I hit the press tool as I pushed it against the bearing... i didnt just hit the bearing.

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/diff/IMG_5535.jpg

In case anyone is wondering, "to spin or not to spin" was my last AX, that shirt was my 1st in class trophy for SMN [woot]

Be absolutely sure the bearings are ALL the way down. There should be a tiny lip of the output shaft showing.

So thats where the day ended. Took about 4 hours. A good day [:D] I love this stuff.

Goodnight, Torsen [:)]

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/diff/IMG_5540.jpg

Post #34

Day 4 of the Torsen install wooooot

So I started the 90 degree evening (ugh) with some sam adams and a bratwurst on my grill. and from then on i drank a ton of water. Today was hard work...

So i lugged both halves of the trans back downstairs again to install the new races. They basicaly go in like they came out, heat up the case and use a piece of aluminum to pound them in. Make sure theyre not going in crooked, if they are take it out VERY CAREFULLY like I told you how before and start over it will make your life a LOT easier. Do your best job at not touching the bearing surface of the race with any kind of metal (including aluminum).



This is VERY important:

On the side of the case where the gears are, make sure the race is fully seated. You will hear a change in the sound it is making when you hammer on the aluminum piece you are using as a press tool.

on the lighter half of the case, where the VSS is, leave approximately 1/8" of the race showing. Make sure it is going in straight.

Gears side:
http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/diff/IMG_5541.jpg

other side:
(no pic, sorry!)

So I got to this point and i was like, okay so i can throw it together now and do the ricer install on the preload check... or I can do it right and put the ring gear on. So I put the ring gear on. This was trip number 3 of 5 walking to the shop 2 blocks away tonight. What a waste of 45 minutes of walking...

anyway, grab your bag of ring gear bolts and head to your shop. to install the ring gear put it on the Torsen oriented correctly, and put the diff portion of the Torsen in your large vice (sorry no pics). Then put 4 bolts in holes that are spaced as evenly as possible. between 1/2 and 1 turn at a time, in a cross-pattern, tighten the bolts down to press the gear on. If you really have to crank on it, something is wrong. I only had to use about 15-20 ft lbs at this stage.

mark those bolts somehow. a tiny piece of paper that you can pick off the top of the bolt after youre done is best, so you dont get adhesive inside your trans.

Now, you need to work somewhat quickly. one by one, in a cross-pattern, apply some red threadlocker to a bolt and tighten it to 35 ft lbs. eventually you will have all the bolts in. remove the 4 you started on earlier, and one by one in a cross-pattern apply threadlocker and tighten to 35 ft lbs.

then, tighten to 50 ft lbs in a cross pattern

then, tighten to 65 ft lbs.

Pack it all up and go back to where your trans is. INSTALL YOUR TORSEN!!! [woot] [cheers]

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/diff/IMG_5545.jpg

Set the trans up on weights like before, line up the dowels, and set the bellhousing down

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/diff/IMG_5546.jpg

Use 5 of the case bolts to slooooowwwwwly close the case up, similar to pressing on the ring gear.

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/diff/IMG_5547.jpg

Again I only had to use about 10 ft lbs. Use two bolts on the round part where the diff is. eventually it will close up and make a crunching noise. tighten all 5 bolts to 35 ft lbs.

Now you need your feeler gauges.

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/diff/IMG_5548.jpg

Mine only went up to .030". So I did the ricer feeler gauge and doubled them up. It worked fine...

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/diff/IMG_5550.jpg

okay, .055". Now go measure your shim you took out earlier with the calipers I told you to get.

.064".

YESSSSSS!!!!! [woot]

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/JennV1988/PartyTime.jpg

im happy because I dont need a new shim. Basically you can look at it like I wasted about 3 hours today lol

okay here is the math for figuring out your preload. 0.013" is the maximum recommended preload that I found. I also saw 0.011" somewhere, and 0.010" somewhere else, so if you have 11 or 12 or 13 thousandths of preload, you might want to get a new shim anyway. 0.004" is the minimum recommended preload I found. I also found 0.006". So, if you have anything less than 0.006", I would recommend you get a new shim.

Basically, according to my many searches, to be safe, use 0.006-0.010 inches of preload.

1. measure the space between the bearing and the bearing seat when the trans is put together as described above.

2. Add 0.010" to this number.

3. Add 0.006" to the number in #1.

3. Measure your shim.

4. If your shim is greater than the number in #2, you need a smaller shim. If your shim is smaller than the number in #3, you need a bigger shim. If your shim is in the middle like mine was (0.009" of preload) then you are golden.


okay, back to the overall install. You should have the two halves of the case back apart, and the bellhousing side should be ready and waiting for you to heat it up, remove the race, install the correct size shim, and re-install the race. But I didnt do that today lol thats for another day.... the last day... [:D]

[cheers]




EDIT, THIS IS BIG TIME IMPORTANT!!! according to this doc from Ford,

http://street-racing.lt/forum/viewthread.php?forum_id=16&thread_id=814&getfile=9422

the preload should be 0.013" on the diff!!

Post #36

well, I suppose I should update on my progress this weekend...

not many pics, but theres no point. If you cant do this stuff you shouldnt have taken your trans apart...

started by removing the race from the bellhousing (yet again lol) getting it real good and hot

put the shim in, put the race back in most of the way with my piece of aluminum, it went in surprisingly easy...

Cleaned the mating surface with a towel that I sprayed brakleen on, then put a light bead maybe 1/16" of that anaerobic sealant on the surface.

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/illinipo/mtx%20swap/repost/diff/IMG_5553.jpg

dropped the bellhousing down like before, started a few bolts a little at a time to press the bearing race down. Then went all the way around, and installed the cable bracket in the meantime. Then went around again to 30 ft.lbs.

Last thing to do is install the VSS with your T30 torx, and then install the oil seals with your plastic hammer (not done yet)... woo hoo! Torsen is done!!!

I still cant find the drain plug on this damn thing.... anybody got an idea where it is? lol

This is a great write up! Thanks for the time and effort to get this out. I now can get my install going. Great job!

Make sure you check out the getrag install videos [thumb]

Theres videos?

Theres videos?

yes, post #90

Can you please repost the pics?

Also I heard theres something I must wire or else the car will not start? Please help me

Did you actually read the whole thread? All of the pics missing in the beginning were reposted in post 137-143.

If you dont change the crank position sensor mount, the car wont start.

You might also need to do something with the trans range sensor wiring, its been so long I forgot.

Here is the wiring pdf.
http://tinyurl.com/86ga7pu

thanks man, I just found the carrier bearing mount today! Where can I buy all the nuts and bolts? At home depot or something?

I wanna start tearing the auto out today

The vast majority of nuts and bolts just carry over to the manual.

Flywheel bolts you should buy at Ford.

Thread necromancy level 33.


Here's the story: http://forums.focaljet.com/tousley-ford/668201-engine-mounts-trans-swaps.html

Hi Steve,

This may not be the right place to ask, but I think you're the best authority on the subject since you've probably handled the most engine mounts of anyone on this forum. I have a feeling there is an alignment issue with my engine mounts due to a manual swap. Would you be able to confirm any mounting hole location differences between the various driver and passenger side mount part numbers for auto and manual?

I have a 2002 SE wagon with a Zetec. It was originally automatic. It is now manual with 02.5+ shifter parts.

I keep breaking engine mounts with normal, around town, average joe driving. They don't break in fascinating fashion, fortunately they are designed fail-safe unlike Mazdas... Here's what has happened:

-1. Manual swap at 170,000 miles using factory mounts
0. Broke and replaced driver side mount at about 190,000 with a white dot mount from you. Basically, the inner metal piece of the mount slowly shifted backward over time and the rubber separating it from the upper plate failed. After it broke, the engine liked to hop up and down rapidly anytime I touched the throttle. Kind of scary actually.
1. At just over 200,000 miles on the factory passenger side mount, finally the rubber separates from the metal and leaks all of the fluid out.
2. Over the next 10,000 miles or so, the passenger side mount continues to separate, clutch feel gets really weird, engine likes to hop up and down rapidly when starting from a stop. So I filled it with roofing urethane and sort of fixed it, but hopping came back after a week.
3. Bought a new el-cheapo passenger mount and filled with the 60A liquid urethane which gets into the nooks and crannies better. Within a week, I had separated the rubber from the metal mount again with much hopping to be had.
4. Driver side mount broke in the same manner as before at 215,000 miles. Rubber between inner and outer piece failed, causing the trans to shift backwards and everything hops up and down like crazy especially from a stop.
5. Made straps to hold the mounts down. They mostly work, but still I get a little hopping from a stop and the clutch feel is garbage.

https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/12765_10101953001062030_1975110013_n.jpg
https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/536495_10102025092360490_908564795_n.jpg


Now, my question. Why do I keep breaking mounts every 10-20,000 miles??? I have a feeling there is an alignment issue with the manual swap. Would you be able to confirm any mounting hole location differences between the various driver and passenger side mount part numbers for auto and manual? Or, do you know if the mounting holes in the chassis are drilled differently for auto and manual? Is the black bracket on the passenger side different? Can I use some combination to make it work better?

I'd like to get to the bottom of this so I don't have to keep buying engine mounts every year or two. Thanks.


And here's the answer.


https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/190099_10102103657170980_211556213_n.jpg


So, add to the parts list the passenger side engine mount BRACKET (the black piece) from a manual car. The engine sits about a half inch forward and about a half inch lower in manual cars.

Good update!