Ok i have been aske to show pics of my budget fuel return set-up so i hope this works
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f33/focuzed1/fuelreturnsystem4.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f33/focuzed1/fuelreturnsystem3.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f33/focuzed1/fuelreturnsystem2.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f33/focuzed1/fuelreturnsystem1.jpg

Ok now for the explination of how... It was real easy first you need a parts list.
airmotive boost sensative adjustable regulator...$168.79,
#6 braided hose 6ft prob only need about 3ft..$30.67,
steeda fuel rail...$99.95,
fuel pressur gauge..$23.99,
2 #6hose ends..$12.56.
plus shippin $30.00.
you will need to modify the fuel pump a bit (all you do is take the check valve off the fule pump and put a piece of efi fuel line in its place careful not to kink it. And drill a few hole into the side of the canister about 4 or 5
So total price $385.96

Now the how I already told you how to modify the fuel pump now for the fuel system.
remove the factory evap system.(you will need to tune this option out so you dont ket a engine code) cut the factory platic part of that line and plug it i use a sealant and a bolt works great.... this line now becomes your fuel return line.With the steeda fuel rail all you have to do is hook up the fuel supply line exactly how you removed it. then with the fitting that you got you can hook up the line on the other side of the rail to the fuel regulator. then hook up a peice of 3/8 efi line to the evap line from your fuel regulator and clamp it. the on the other side of this metal line back by the fuel tank you take some more of the fuel line and find a spot towards the top of the tank to go into for the fuel to go back into the tank. I just drilled a hole at the top corner and put a 3/8 90 degree fitting in it and clamp my fuel line to it..... Bam! you now have a full return system real easy and real cheap. Oh start the car and make sure you have no leaks. Btw AGAIN I STATE USE EFI FUEL LINE NOTHING ELSE!!!!! If you dont you will be doing this over because other line will not hold the pressure you need it to TRUST ME!!!! I KNOW.....lol

and tom tuned this for u

im guessing u tuned the pump to stay at wide open at all times

have any pics of where to drill holes nice write up ;)


any pics of

"I just drilled a hole at the top corner and put a 3/8 90 degree fitting in it and clamp my fuel line to it"

and tom tuned this for u

im guessing u tuned the pump to stay at wide open at all times

I dont think so. we did it with the voltage.the voltage goes up with the boost pressure controlled by the ecu. (I think ) I do remember him stating that he did not want to do that with mine so we worked around it. Tom could you help here?

have any pics of where to drill holes nice write up ;)

I put the pump in (For placement knowledge) and put the holes on the front half of the pump (facing the front of the car) becareful not to drill into you fuel pump
when you drill these holes...(I almost did)

any pics of
"I just drilled a hole at the top corner and put a 3/8 90 degree fitting in it and clamp my fuel line to it"

Sorry cant get pics of that with out dropping my tank. [dunno] just get your fitting that you are gonna use (I got mine from autozone) with your tank dropped push it up in place and look for a spot that your fitting will fit. Mine is on the top passanger side corner of the fuel tank and it fits just right.

ok how about a pic of the spot u cut the hole in the back floor like so i can see the spot its in ill talk to tom via AIM

ok how about a pic of the spot u cut the hole in the back floor like so i can see the spot its in ill talk to tom via AIM

That pic is already up there U see the one with the antifreeze bottles in it that is it. I removed the back seat and pulled away the carpet and follow the wires because the fuel pump is right under those wires...

so whats controling the voltage to teh pump now still the ecu

can u get a write up on the wiring u did
and i ready where u said u replaced the two hose on the pump with the EFI line to right do they pull right off or did u have to cut those

so whats controling the voltage to teh pump now still the ecu

can u get a write up on the wiring u did
and i ready where u said u replaced the two hose on the pump with the EFI line to right do they pull right off or did u have to cut those

As far as i know it is still the ecu controlling the pump voltage. no special wiring. all you have to do is cut a small slit in the clear plastic hose where it attaches to the top and it wil pull right off. as for the side on the pump there are 2 little screws holding the check valve on. take those out and it slips right off.

yes yes on the evap line i see i was refaring to the ones on the pump the ones in this pic do i replace the two lines in the pic as well

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f33/focuzed1/fuelreturnsystem4.jpg

yes. sorry, i fixed the post i realized what you were talking about after i posted it hope the new info helps...

so i remove the check valve it dosnt go back on so i can just use one hose to go from the pump to the top of the pump right

THANKS!!!

So you drilled 4 holes in the bottom canister of the fuel pump? can you explain what these do. and where exactly they are at.

they let more fuel in for the pump im guessing there on the front so under hard take off the fuel stays in tom talked about this long ago

THANKS!!!

So you drilled 4 holes in the bottom canister of the fuel pump? can you explain what these do. and where exactly they are at.

when you remove the check valve it no longer has anything to put the fuel back into the canister.. this whole check valve item is kinda like a return sytem just not as good. by drilling the holes it allows for fuel to get into the canister and I belive that is where it gets some of its fuel from. I drilled these holes on the front side of the canister about 1-1.5 in from the bottom side by side as many as i could fit (on the front half of the canister)

I thought the check valve was to keep the fuel pressure up (keep it from bleeding down) when the engine was shut off, that way it wouldnt have to prime every time you started the car.

and what was that black line that you plugged with a bolt? the righting on that thing is SMALL

look to be the old evap line ;)

ok makes since. and what was that black line that you plugged with a bolt? the righting on that thing is SMALL

Yeah i noticed that after i posted it and tried to fix it but couldnt... that is the factory evap line. Just cut it plug it and move it out the way you dont need it any more....

so u did this at your house and then drove to toms did u have to do any tuning before u got to toms for the new fuel setup i just check i will be doing this next weekend ;)

I thought the check valve was to keep the fuel pressure up (keep it from bleeding down) when the engine was shut off, that way it wouldnt have to prime every time you started the car.

Could be....[dunno] like i said im not sure exactly its job i just know it puts fuel int the canister and without it you need holes itn the canister.... you are probably right....

so u did this at your house and then drove to toms did u have to do any tuning before u got to toms for the new fuel setup i just check i will be doing this next weekend ;)

No tuning for the fuel set-up just set your fuel pressure to about 40psi the way i did it was turned on my car adjusteds screw on fuel regulator reved it kinda quick (while watching fuel pressure gauge) and repeated until i got 40psi on both idle and reving (i think min was a bit higher than 40psi when i reved it it was like 45-50 kinda hard to tell but a ball park figure should be ok) .. Oh and make sure its is not leaking (we dont want that now do we)

Oh i just noticed i didnt put it.... MAKE SURE YOU GET A BOOST SENSATIVE FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR....

CORRECT???

http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s98/tls_zx3/fuelreturnsystemADSAD.jpg

ok im off to bed ill shoot u a pm 2morro thanks for the tip on FJ ;)

Thanks man how did you get the pic to enlarge... I spent like an hour tryin to fix that... your the *&%^[thumb]

No prob... glad I could help

you have to love paint and photobucket, lmao

you have to love paint and photobucket, lmao

[rofl] Not me im more like[rant] [rant]

where did you say you got these parts? cfm?

http://www.aeromotiveinc.com/pdetail.php?prod=12

is this the fuel pressure regulator you are using? if not can you give us a link? and if so it is spelled wrong on your 1st page. if you type that in you get aircraft fuel pressure regulators, lol. "airmotive" instead of aeromotive, lol

i am wondering............what if u had left the check valve in place and rplaced your lines with the efi lines. whould it help with the starving of fuel you have when the tank is less than half............(with that heavy right foot in place). i know u can drive the car with 1/2 tank and less. you can press it or ..........you will more likely run lean. would keeping that checkvalve in place help? what about removing the stock efi line with 3/8 efi line......... baffeles in the fuel tank.......i know some fuel cells carry this due to the fuel being forced back under acceleration or cornering"hard". i changed my 2000 pump before there was the so called"recall". i was given a 2001 or 2002 focus fuel pump. the dealership said"they made modifications for the pump" . yeah right. i had to shell out over $232 for it in 2003. i changed the lines to 3/8 efi. i did not remove the check valve. i love my focus. we as a group need to combine and keep ideas floating. let's all not be stingy and hide info. that is how we all learn and have fun with our car.

THIS IS GREAT! do you even need a BAP now?

where did you say you got these parts? cfm?

I ordered all of my parts from cfm.

http://www.aeromotiveinc.com/pdetail.php?prod=12

is this the fuel pressure regulator you are using? if not can you give us a link? and if so it is spelled wrong on your 1st page. if you type that in you get aircraft fuel pressure regulators, lol. "airmotive" instead of aeromotive, lol
Today 10:05 AM

Yep thats the one i have.... again you proved me wrong and that i cant spell...[hihi]

i am wondering............what if u had left the check valve in place and rplaced your lines with the efi lines. whould it help with the starving of fuel you have when the tank is less than half............(with that heavy right foot in place). i know u can drive the car with 1/2 tank and less. you can press it or ..........you will more likely run lean. would keeping that checkvalve in place help? what about removing the stock efi line with 3/8 efi line......... baffeles in the fuel tank.......i know some fuel cells carry this due to the fuel being forced back under acceleration or cornering"hard". i changed my 2000 pump before there was the so called"recall". i was given a 2001 or 2002 focus fuel pump. the dealership said"they made modifications for the pump" . yeah right. i had to shell out over $232 for it in 2003. i changed the lines to 3/8 efi. i did not remove the check valve. i love my focus. we as a group need to combine and keep ideas floating. let's all not be stingy and hide info. that is how we all learn and have fun with our car.

If you dont remove the check valve, then the pressure will never reach what you want it to... Now i dont know if this will work but my idea that i had was hook your return line to the line that goes into the canister. I thought about trying it but i kinda needed my car back so i just did it this way.... Any one think that that would work?

THIS IS GREAT! do you even need a BAP now?

Tom says no but i havent tried yet I just got her back yesterday... He said i could probably disconnect it but im too scared to....[hihi]

I thought i read in another post your set up could only be run with 3/4 of a tank or more, is this true? It seems like a good fix but my car is a daily driver and that would be a pain.

I thought i read in another post your set up could only be run with 3/4 of a tank or more, is this true? It seems like a good fix but my car is a daily driver and that would be a pain.

Mine is a daily driver as well and that is not true. u can drive it just fine all the way down to 1/4 (well that is as far as i have gone) and it ran just fine (just not on hard acceleration) I havent tried it at 1/2 tank yet ill have to let you know about that one....

How long did it take you to do the install? Why didnt you put a gauge in the cabin vs on top of the regulator? By the way, it looks great! [cheers]

How long did it take you to do the install? Why didnt you put a gauge in the cabin vs on top of the regulator? By the way, it looks great! [cheers]

Honestly i think it only took about a day but like i said i wa trying to figure it out as i went along... now i could prob do it in a few hours. and the reason for the gauge not in the cabin is if the line ruptured then i would have fuel in my cabin.....[nono] dont want that... But i just heard about this new type of gauge for stuff like that it uses some other type of fluid to transfer the pressure readings... not sure how it works yet have to do more homework on this....[thumb]

or you could just buy a electric fuel pressure gauge they come with a sending unit only a few wires come into the cabin ;)

"If you dont remove the check valve, then the pressure will never reach what you want it to... Now i dont know if this will work but my idea that i had was hook your return line to the line that goes into the canister. I thought about trying it but i kinda needed my car back so i just did it this way.... Any one think that that would work?"

^^^i wonder if that would help. at least for a little while. you would eventually use up the fuel that is coming from the return line also and end up in the same spot though. [poke]

as far as the bap goes. couldnt you slowly turn down the voltage that it is adding to the pump and see how it goes. i dont have a bap so i dont know about the adjustments that it has. but if you could do that then it would be easier for your peace of mind than just taking it off and hoping it is going to be ok. i would like to know weather i will need it or not. if no one knows by the time i get ready to do my set up i will just buy one and not take it out of the package until we have it at tom's and he says well you need a bap, lol.

you could get a electronic fuel pressure gauge if you wanted to spend 4 times the price. it seems like it would be easier to make the adjustments to the fuel pressure regulator with the gauge under the hood with you any way, lol. [wrenchin]

i couldnt find the fuel pressure regulator on cfm. i done a search with no results.

I called william at cfm and he ordered everything i need.... about the electronic fuel pressure guages, they are not very prescise i know the electronic oil gauge i had for a while was way off and i got a new sending unit and it was still way off. so i just use the manual ones.. they are always way more on the money....

i have manual also :)

hmmmmmmmmmmm.... sending the fuel return back to the canister. sounds like a good idea. i wonder how that would be setup ?

Im working on that Idea now , Might do a drop in fuel tank ready to go with all parts needed to make a return hook up system

Tom

Thatd be cool save alot of work for us guys....

ok i figured since i was out side today messing around with my car i would add some stuff to this how to thread. a few pics of the what it looks like before the swap is done. hope it can add a little more to this subject. [thumb]

i done some labeling in paint for a couple of them
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s98/tls_zx3/100_1329.jpg

http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s98/tls_zx3/100_1330.jpg

just another view of the same thing
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s98/tls_zx3/100_1331.jpg

this is where the fuel pump is located so if you want to cut so you can access it with out dropping the tank. the tank will still have to be dropped to tap the return in but this could make future changes easier. i will be doing this. ...DO NOT cut this whole with the tank in place.
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s98/tls_zx3/100_1332.jpg

here is a better view of just where it is.
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s98/tls_zx3/100_1333.jpg

here are a couple shots from up under the car where the lines lead to the fuel tank. you can see the connector where you unhook it and run fuel injector line up to the top of the tank to the elbow that you tap in. (or may be to the place where the check valve used to be?!)
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s98/tls_zx3/100_1336.jpg

http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s98/tls_zx3/100_1334.jpg

nice pics bro

well done man thanks for the add... I know this will help some people.. I think the moderators should make this a permenant how-to-do

yeah me too. "hint hint" [poke]

TLS your pics are MIA

what? [dunno]

oh. duh, i moved them to a different folder in photobucket so they werent embedded any more. do they work now?

DO NOT cut to get to the fuel tank with the fuel tank in place at least take the straps down and cut it if not remove it all the way

This is an easy way to get a return fuel system, it worked on mine for a long time , with this set up you can easy replace the stock pump with a 255 LPH walbro

This isnt for everyone to do and any time your working around GAS you need to be VERY CAREFULL

The only Diff between how I figured this out and whats on mine and his , Is that I have a 255LPH walbro and no B-A-P

I dont think his B-A-P is needed but the fuel PSI will need to be watched to find that out something I guess I should of looked into why it was on the dyno

Dont cut corners or cost on this use good stuff and make sure you use EFI fuel hose in the tank regular fuel hose wont hold up A carb regulator will not work it must be a EFI regulator

Tom

tom would you suggest me getting a welbro 255lph fuel pump. i have an 03. i think they have a 215 right?

or should i buy a bap and keep it in the box so i can send it back if we dont need it, lol. just wire it up if we run out of pressure, lol.

is this the pump...
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/166

what he said ^^^

I know I have to replace my pump its a 2000

So if the 255 LPH walbro pump is used, another fuel pump is not necessary, or still requires another one?

The sloshing of the fuel in the tank is still a problem then?

yes the sloshing is still a problem. the 255 goes in place of the stock one and looks just like it.

Will the pump take that constant stress? I would think it would fail a lot sooner than normal...

price on a return fuel set up? tom

about 1k for mine. but it could be done cheaper with a different type of fuel pump, regulator, and filter

any vapor lock problems?

i havent ran it with the return set up yet

i dont know why there would be though. there are a ton of other guys running the set up with mustangs and such

so the car can be drivin ounce this is done, or does it need a tune very soon?

thanks mike

it will run, how well i am not sure.

ok I know this is a really old post but i wanted to update some stuff.. I am still currently running 350whp but i found something out that we were still not sure about. so i found that if you have the svt fuel pump you do not need to modify the pump what so ever (85psi). Yes you have to put a bap and a rewire kit for the fuel pump other wise youll fry your ecu..."I know i found out the hard way" your ecu is not meant to handle that kind of voltage or at least the wire isnt. And you have to bypass the fuel pump driver module completely. and i put fuel cell foam in my tank an have run in high boost at 1/4 tank for short burst and it worked great. right about 1/4 tank though it will act up every now and then.. in low boost no problems so far. but even in high boost at 1/2 tank no problems at all. I hope this helps some people but like i said unmodified svt fuel pump and bypass fuel pump control module and fuel pump rewire kit.. and all is gravy baby..........

Yes agree BUT with testing I have done with long repeted pulls you will suck the cannister dry thats the only down side , you need to come look at this return system I am doing beofre it leaves here because this is all stuff you can do your self and save the labor cost and 99% cure all return system issues

Tom

I will definately take pictures when I come Tom! Let me know if you want them posted here.

it would be great if u can post the pic, etc

tom why dont you take pics! i know the guy wont mind you taking pics and not all of us can come up there and look at it even though we want to [poke]

Yes , I will take some this week , I will be installing it and pictures will follow , everything came in this week

Tom

Yes , I will take some this week , I will be installing it and pictures will follow , everything came in this week

Tom
Thread revival....anything yet Tom? I'm thinking I need to do this to my car.

I posted pictures in another thread that I started about this , think it was in my section

Tom

Couldn't find it

i done a how to on this that is a sticky. tom just uses a better cell than mine... which i will be switching to soon.

I think you did a awesome job[pray]

thanks [thumb]

where did tom post the pics of the return set up he did?

I also think he did a great job , Now get it safer , He has a nasty little ride

Tom

tom posted the pics of his in the thread about the 413whp focus he built for a fellow ff member. here is a pic of the cell he used, which is also the cell i will be getting. [thumb]

Tom i have a couple questions. is the line you have going up to the right the vent? and did you use the stock fuel gauge?

http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s98/tls_zx3/other%20focus/PIC_0272.jpg

Is there any way to get the original pics back up or does anyone else have any pics of what is needed to be done? Planning to start this by this weekend coming and the pics would be very helpful. Thanks!

Has anyone done fuel return set up with the fuel cell under the car where the stock fuel tank is? Can't this be done?

I was looking at doing that but I can't seem to find one that is shallow enough. It would probably need to be about 6" high excluding the sump in order to have adequate clearance. Actually, ATL makes an 8 gallon "well cell" like pictured above that's only 6" high but probably won't be a good fit under the vehicle.

Yeah, if you're to the point that you need a fuel cell for your power needs, you shouldn't care about using your hatch. Not to mention, it's safer in there, and easier to get to.

Not sure if it's safer in the hatch in the case of an accident. Stock location seems to be the safest place.

how deep, wide and long is the stock fuel tank? I am pretty sure there is a way you could get one made to the specs. Why couldn't you? I would rather keep it where the original fuel tank is. I don't think it matters if u are at the certain power levels. I do not see alot of drag cars with the fuel cell in the trunk. maybe i'm wrong. that is a place i do not want mine!

I was trying to find out the dimensions but couldn't get an answer. I will probably be dropping my tank this weekend so I will take some measurements.

Well, Tom has done it on cars he owns and has done it to others' cars. Would he do it if it was extremely unsafe? No, because things that aren't safe...like having a fuel pump sitting lower than your tank at the rear-most part of your car, is unsafe and he told one guy to fix it. Fitting it in the stock location would also be a hassle to run a filler neck to. It's possible, just more involved.