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new to autox

4K views 52 replies 12 participants last post by  svtfocus17 
#1 ·
Im getting ready for the upcoming autox season and i wanna run some races. I have a stock 01 zx3. Im debating on going stock class or street touring. What would be good setup for tires/rims and suspension or any other mods allowed for each class. Thanks for input in advance
 
#2 ·
here's what I could dig up from my regions site....you may wanna go to www.SCCA.com for more in depth rules.

Stock

As a rough guide, if your car has modifications beyond this list it is not eligible for Stock Category:
Anything available on the exact model and year of your car as standard or optional equipment, as installed on the factory assembly line (nothing available only dealer-installed is allowed), plus
Standard OEM identical replacement parts
Accessories, gauges, appearance, comfort, and convenience items (not replacement driver's seat, though) that basically don't help
Added roll bar or roll cage to spec (not required, though)
Driver harness (no cutting seats to install, though)
Trailer hitch and/or tow bar mountings
Any wheel of diameter and width identical to a stock or factory optional wheel, offset within +- 0.25 inch
Most street legal tires that will fit the mounted wheels and stock bodywork
Any shock absorber of the same type and mounting as original; no change to standard spring mountings is allowed; suspension geometry may not be altered; gas or hydraulic shocks are permitted
Any brake linings; pre-1992 cars may use solid/braided metal brake lines.
Any front anti-roll bar (no change to stock/optional rear anti-roll bar, if present)
Manufacturer specified ignition settings only
Any replacement air filter element (or removal of air filter element); no plumbing changes, however
Engine bored no more than .020"; no balancing or porting/polishing of head
Replacement of any part of the exhaust system past the catalytic converter (if quiet)
Any oil filter
Added clutch scattershield

Street Touring - S

If your car is a normally aspirated sedan (four seats, four factory seatbelts, not sports-car derived) of 3.1 Liters or less, or one of a few small turbocharged cars specified in the rules, and perhaps prepared further than allowed in Stock Category, it may be eligible for one of the Street Touring Classes. Street Touring - S is an SCCA National class, but Street Touring-R is an optional Regional only class. Street Touring allows anything allowed in Stock, plus (roughly) these modifications:
Any shocks, struts, and springs, using original attachment points
Any sway bars
Any wheels up to 7.5" in width that fit over stock brakes
Tires up to and including a width of 225, with a treadwear rating of 140 or greater.
Strut bars/braces as allowed in Street Prepared.
Exhaust system downstream of catalytic converter(s)
Short throw shift kits
Spoilers, body kits, rear wings, etc.
Pedal kits and other interior cosmetic accessories
Alternate brakes pads and linings
Any fully padded and upholstered front seats with reclining seat backs
Removal of factory trim (rub strips, emblems)
Alternate steering wheels of any diameter, otherwise meeting Stock rules
Cross drilled and/or slotted brake rotors
Alternate air cleaner enclosures
No limited slip differentials except factory viscous coupler type units
Stock brake calipers/drums
Fenders may not be cut or flared (but specific modifications for tires OK)
Emission-legal headers
Emission legal modifications to Engine management system, either electronic or mehanical, but not both.
Engine and transmission must remain unmodified, including emissions equipment
 
#3 ·
Here's all the rules

http://www.scca.org/_filelibrary/File/2005SoloRules.pdf

Honestly, don't do much your first year, since it really won't matter anyway. Find out precisely how to handle your car in stock form, then you'll be able to figure out what aspects of the car you would like to improve through modification. The car will remain much faster than you for quite a while. Try to go to an autoX school, like Evolution, at the end of the year. You'll be 100% shocked at how much faster it'll make you. Also, read the sticky in this forum on AutoX.

Good tires are the best thing to start with, though. Get some summer-only max performance tires like Kalken Azenis. Best performance upgrade you'll do short of a full turbo kit.
 
#4 ·
Tires are the first performance upgrade I plan on making for my car sometime during next season - the Falken Azenis. Take it from someone who just began this season, after my last two events of the year, all I wanted to spend my money on was a new set of tires.

To stay stock (as listed above), make sure to stay on factory sized rims. Since you're on the ZX3 model, you can go for the larger sized rim offered on the car, which is 16" I believe to still stay in HS.

I totally agree with Carrera. There's no point in pooring money into modifications on a car when you haven't even experienced it out on the course. You'll be making changes to the car without knowing what you really need to do, especially if you intend for you modifications to make you more competitive for autocross.

For the most part, it's your driving that needs the upgrade and not the car as stated. Stay stock for now, save your money, and then spend accordingly after getting to know your car better.
 
#6 ·
^^ Negative. The SVT Suspension was not a dealer-installed option from factory for your car.

And the Rotas with Hankook RS-2's are a good choice (no bias involved [:D]), but if you want to be competitive, you're going to need R Competition tires.
 
#8 ·
Yep...or V700s

Rotas:
Technically, they would not be legal in stock class.
The rule states that the wheels must be within 1/4" (6.35mm) of the stock offset.
Which on your car is 52.5mm.
Most Rotas are at 42-45mm IIRC (If I Recall Correctly).
 
#9 ·
^^ Good call Doug, I forgot about the offsets.
 
#10 ·
Run a few events first and make sure you're into the sport before you start spending a bunch of money. In other words, work on your driving skills first.

Remember to add air to your tires and get there early so you can spend time walking the course and getting to know the folks you'll be racing with.

Most experienced drivers are pretty good about giving rides and riding with the newer drivers. So see who's good and don't be shy about asking for advice and pointers on your driving.

Once you've decided that this is the sport for you and your ready to start spending some money on your ride...go get some good tires!
 
#12 ·
I don't think a Focus has a chance against the Spec'd Civics of STS at the higher levels. The Focus isn't all that competitive in really any class. I think the only class it would have a chance in would be FSP. But you're looking at spending $20K+ to get it competitive there. And then there's always the matter of needing a national level driver.
 
#13 ·
Also, you will want to run 15" rims/tires...not 16. The 15's will let you accelerate and brake quicker due to the smaller diamiter and mass.
 
#14 ·
Seriously, don't worry about mods for now. If you're just aching to spend some $$$, buy R-comp tires, a Chase Cam so you can analyze your driving, and go to Evolution Driving School. Those 3 things alone will make FAR more difference than vehicle mods with a lot less $$ spent. Not to mention they'll never be redundant if you change vehicles or classes.

I can and have beat much faster cars because I know how to race better. Nothing like punking C5s, Evo's, and STis with a Stock class car on street tires... Besides, if you get a lot of suspension mods, you'll tend to chase speed with more mods and $$$ instead of concentrating on your driving. I've seen it happen...
 
#15 ·
^^^What he said!!! Seat time is free and in terms of improving your lap times, its the best bang for buck improvement you can make. If you really, really want to spend some money, look at getting a good set of tires.

R- Compounds if you want to run in H-Stock or consider a set of Falken Azenis RT 615 if your region or club runs a stock street tire class.

Since you're just starting out, I would stay in the stock classes this year. This will give you time to hone your driving skills and see for yourself how competitive the other classes are where you race. Based on your observations, you can then make an informed decision on whether or not you can be competitive in a modified class.
 
#16 ·
Carrera26 said:
If you're just aching to spend some $$$, buy R-comp tires
Wouldn't you reccomend waiting on R-Comp tires until he gets some experience? They hide your mistakes and it would be easier to learn on street tires, imo.
 
#18 · (Edited)
better pads, Yes. Stainless lines, No unless you have a car thats older than 1982.

you can upgrade your cat back (as long as all emissions equip. is there), struts/shocks (as long as they have no more than 3 adjustment settings), wheels (keeping with in 1/4 inch OD and offset), tires (dot approved), and some more stuff but not much more.
 
#19 ·
I wouldn't even worry about buying a new set of wheels and tires to get back into stock yet. You're not likely to be competitive since you're new to the sport, so just going out there and having fun/learning is what it should be about. Run your first event(s) and see what you want to do before spending your money. It's always best to know what you want than doing guesswork with your money.

Just go out drive, learn, and save your money for now. You don't want to drop some cash on something and regret it later if you get involved in the sport.
 
#20 ·
thefrush said:
Wouldn't you reccomend waiting on R-Comp tires until he gets some experience? They hide your mistakes and it would be easier to learn on street tires, imo.
There's much controversy on this. I'd say stay away from them at first, because a lot more grip will cover bad driving habits. Especially if he has the mod bug, he'll probably push himself into a ST class where his R-comps will suddenly be illegal and it'll be kind of a waste of $$$.
 
#21 ·
thefrush said:
^^ Negative. The SVT Suspension was not a dealer-installed option from factory for your car.
Can't you put in the SVT shocks (or any shocks for that matter)?

Also are Fuzion ZRis a good choice for cheap daily driver/auto-x tires, because my RS-As have no traction at all.

PS: Custom alignements are allowed in stock, right?
 
#22 ·
yea im kinda curious about all this as well, cuz i was told any stock part for the focus you can have on your car and still be in the stock class like the svt suspension, and i have an lx model do i need to use my steelies or any tired thatll fit the car with the offset?
 
#23 ·
It has to be a part that was available on your particular model of car.
Standard fOCUS had either 15 or 16" wheels available, so either size would work.
You also don't have to use the steelies. Alloys would be fine:
13.4 WHEELS
Any type wheel may be used provided it complies with the following:
it is the same width and diameter as standard, and as installed
(including wheel spacers if applicable) it does not have an offset more
than +/- 0.25 inch from a standard wheel for the car. The resultant
change in track dimensions is allowed.
Wheel spacers are permitted, provided the resultant combination
complies with the offset requirements of this section. Wheel studs,
lug nuts, and/or bolt length may be changed.
Vehicles equipped with rims having metric specifications may use
alternate rims as determined by using the following procedure:
Diameter: converting the metric measurement to inches and using
the nearest smaller inch diameter rim.
Width: converting the metric measurement to inches and using the
nearest smaller 1/2-inch width rim. Offset and track must still
comply with the requirements of this section.
But, those of you asking about SVT suspension...Nope.
Because, it's not available on the standard model, hence, not legal for stock class.
Though, the dampers would be debateable, since any aftermarket dampers are allowed,
and I believe the SVT dampers would fall within the guidlines listed below:
13.5 SHOCK ABSORBERS
A. The make of shock absorbers may be substituted providing that
the number, type (e.g., tube, lever, etc.), system of attachment and
attachment points are not altered, except as noted below. The
interchange of gas and hydraulic shocks absorbers is permitted.
The following restrictions apply:
65
1. No more than two separate external shock damping adjustment
controls. Gas pressure adjustment is not considered a
damping adjustment.
2. Suspension geometry and alignment capability, not including
ride height, may not be altered by the substitution of alternate
shock absorbers.
3. Adjustable spring perches are allowed, but the spring loadbearing
surface must be in the same location relative to the
shock mounting points as on the standard part. Shims may be
used to achieve compliance.
4. The fully extended length must be within plus or minus one
inch of the dimension of the standard part.
 
#25 ·
You going to get negative spacers? The Rotas stick too far out, Unless you grind some of the hub away, it is impossible to move the wheel closer to stock offset.
 
#26 · (Edited)
You can get a cat-back, but nothing more on the exhaust.

If I were to do everything possible within the rules of G Stock for my SVTF, this would be it.

K&N Air Filter
Lightweight SSR 17x7.5" Rims & Titanium Lug Nuts (drop 37lbs of unsprung weight!)
Kumho Victoracers (shaved & heat-cycled)
Koni 2-way adjustable dambers
HIA cat-back exhaust (probably wouldn't really, not much advantage)
Lightweight Oddessy or Optima battery (dropping 30lbs out of the nose is a good thing!)
Hawk HPS brake pads
Full roll cage (strangely enough, they do this to allow the road racers to come AutoX without being totally screwed for classing)
Alignment (can't do much, maybe squeeze a little caster out of it and some front toe-out)

And that's pretty much everything that I could do in the stock class. Would make a VERY fine little racer, and one that could regularly beat Touring-Class STis as it's on R-comps.

Stock class really isn't that slow, especially at the regional level. At the final race, a Mini Coopper S on slicks and Konis (with a 2nd year driver) was within 2 seconds of Chuck Hemmingson in his Subaru STi on slicks. Chuck had just come back from winning the national Touring 2 road race championships and was on the cover of a magazine or two. That same Mini destroyed a couple full-race C3 Vettes, M3s, Evos, etc etc, and had the 3rd fastest time of the day. So don't be in this huge rush to get out of stock class.
 
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