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07 SE Hatch, pulled the trigger on FRPP springs/shocks/struts

4K views 32 replies 11 participants last post by  BowerR64 
#1 · (Edited)
So I recently bought an 07 SE Hatch. The ride height is simply painful...

So after a lot of research and realizing I wanted every day drivability, I went with these FRPP parts :

http://www.massivespeedsystem.com/f...pers_strut_shock_kits/mcss9473/i-1893239.aspx

http://www.massivespeedsystem.com/ford_racing/ford_racing_lowering_springs/mcss10978/i-1893234.aspx

http://massivespeedsystem.com/_mass...on_assembly_services/mchr16978/i-1829779.aspx

So theoretically I should have everything coming to me ready to go.

However, I have never done this before. I may try to attempt it myself, I may have someone help me, but I wanted to know any tricks/tips/important info other than the basic procedure before I started. Any info is appreciated.

EDIT: Found this video on an 05...what's different on mine?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_3T2ynDRZ0s

Thanks
 
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#3 · (Edited)
Spray penetrant on the front strut bolts a couple times a week before the job at least, get it down the split in the knuckle on the bolt.

Pull shock to drop rear arms for spring removal/install. You can lever out the old springs with that droop. Center bolt spring compressor is easiest for install, can't get outside ones quite on opposite sides & space is limited. FRPP might go in easier, SVT's I did drop less. With shock removed you can lever arm even lower than it droops.

I avoided dropping arm to avoid dealing with bolt thru bushing that's likely seized.

When removing front struts, leaving the top nuts on loose lets you lever the knuckle down off the strut, only the one bottom bolt to remove. Chisel/screwdriver wedged in split helps free the old struts.
 
#5 ·
Is the video I posted accurate? I wouldn't think THAT much changed from 05 to 06-07.
 
#6 ·
Going to attempt this with a friend Tuesday. Any last words of advice?
 
#8 ·
Follow Sailor's advice. Rent an internal spring compressor from the part store for easier rear spring removal/installation and be very careful when compressing springs, never point towards yourself. If your new front strut is not preassembled with the springs, you will also need to rent a spring compressor for that, an external style one.

The install from 00-11 is all the same for suspension, so your guide should be fine. You can also use this as a reference as well, would be the same process: http://www.fordracingparts.com/download/instructionsheets/fordinstshtm-3000-zx3.pdf

I'd also suggest an alignment afterwards to ensure good handling and tire wear
 
#10 ·
A little off topic but in the links you posted your shocks and struts are blue?

Did yours come blue like this? Mine are black im just wondering if i got the wrong kit or of the images are for a different kit on the massive site?

I was thinking that ford came out with 2 kits for the 06-11 one is slightly more firm and one set is really agressive and the agressive kit is blue?
 
#21 ·
I am about to order the exact same parts for my '07 ZX4. Did you need to order camber plates at all for yours?

I called up C-F-M and William was unsure if it was necessary for my vehicle or not. I'd hate not to get these and need them. But then again, I'd hate to get them and not need them! lol

Let me know when you can, Nmarzoli04. Thanks!
 
#23 ·
Ok. Thanks.

I can't wait to get these installed. Everything that I'm hearing is that it is night and day from stock. Especially suspension that hasn't been changes in 100k miles ;)
 
#24 ·
Be careful of your lower control arm bolts. One came out fine, but the other was seized and I destroyed the bushing..ended up needing a new control arm and bolts. Just beware you may need to cut then out of there. Other than that the job was a breeze.
 
#25 ·
A family friend (mechanic who owns a shop) is going to do the suspension, motor mounts, and end links when I take it in to get inspected next week. Saves me a lot of money on labor! Thanks for the tip though.

I'm hearing a bit of a grinding noise when I make sharp turns, below the steering wheel. So I may need to also replace a CV joint or lower control arm, maybe both! I'll tell him to look out for them also when he rips everything out. He'll replace them probably if need be, only charging me for materials and beer.
 
#26 ·
Sounds like a good deal. Once I got the LCA replaced, it only took me about 6 hours (with a dinner break) to do. I ordered new end links/rear sway bar bushings but they came in late so I'm just going to replace them next time I rotate my tires/change my oil.

You'll love it. My ST already had the SVT style dampers but the new dampers combined with the lower springs completely changed the car. It just begs to be pushed through every corner now it's awesome.
 
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