Rear arm dangling before we took it off to compare to SVT set-up... They are different on the wagon due to the shock mount... YOU DO NOT have to remove this to do the swap. You can just swap the spindles. Or on a zx3 zx5 you can change out the whole arm assembly. To Change the spindles it is 4 bolts and you have to grind the heads off of two rivets in the middle
The arm with the spindle just removed.
Here you can see where I ground off the rivets
This is where the front hook-up is for the ebrake cables...This is with the heat shields removed
New SVT stuff on! Sexxy
Stock front disc and SVT disc
Again!
Front SVT spindle and my awesome KW suspension ( really like it)
Everyone has been interested in this lately. So, here it is!
I got the SVT set-up from Jeremy at Focussalvage.com. The only thing I had to add was SVT stainless brake lines ( from TonyD. at Newedgeperformance ) , rear svt E-brake cables ( from the Ford dealer ), and brake fluid.
The rust was wire wheeled off after the pics were taken.They look fine now, no rust !!The calipers will be painted the same as the front were in a week or two!
BTW LOve the picture of Aaron getting his head squeezed between the stand and the car!
Many thanks to Aaron (lilredzx3) and Ashley (zx3chick) for all their help. They came down for the weekend and helped with the install. We barely did any work to their car this time...Time to start modding the 05 guys!!! LOL
BTW Ashley took all the pics!!
With the stainless lines and new brakes I would say it is 20-30 % better stopping with NO fade.
So, how much did all of this cost you? That is one of the biggest factors for me getting it done or not...
Oh, and will it work on the sedan? Stupid question I'm sure. I saw you mentioned zx3, zx5, and wagon but not the sedan so I'll ask in case. Thanks for the pictures..
Wow, must be nice to have a complete shop with lift and everything at your disposal. [thumb] I'd have a spotless undercarriage if I had access to a lift because I'd be under it all the time cleaning everything. []
You want to watch it letting the halfshaft dangle like that - the inner CV joint could be damaged because it has a limited range of motion and allowing it to hold up the outer halfshaft and CV joint like that can overflex it.
Always support the shaft on both sides of any CV joint when you have the outer one disconnected from the hub or the inner one disconnected from the tranny.
Nope, no need for a porportioning valve, it works just fine the way it is. I had to put a valve on my mustang when I did it, but the FoFo did not need one.
The SVT disc is larger, so it must be your eyes..LOL the SVT uses a 300 mm disc and stock is 238 I think
You have to remove the rear ehaust shield, but it is really easy. It is held on by 4 speed nuts, that is it! You remove those and pull the shield off and they are easy to get to. Total time doing the e-brake cables from start to finish was maybe 30 minutes or less... Just buy the svt rear cables from Ford. That is all you need.
Viney, I am doing the swap now on my wagon, but I am doing non svt rears [] but it will be better than the drums, I have the entire rear suspension out of an advancetrac zx5, and have the ebrake cables, I am not going to remove the control arms, but just the drums.
My question is, what tools are need to do this right and how tight did you torque down the bolts that hold the hub/spindle on for the discs??
A light tundra 5 - speed ^^^ There will be two with discs now... I have discussed the advance trac brakes with folks as well. I think they will be just fine... I would recommend getting stainless lines while doing this job, gotta bleed the system anyway..and the stainless steel lines will improve the feel and the power of the brakes as well.
Just standard shop tools, sockets and wrenches. The only nice tool would be some brake line wrenches ( it will make the lines easier to do ). They are available at sears ( craftsmen ) for under $20.
You may need a grinder to remove the rivets from the brakes ( see the pictures )... Thats all I can think of... I do have a good set of tools as I do that for a living, so I may have forgotten something.
Torque?? I didn't use a wrench, but the hubs are steel to steel so pretty tight.. I only use a torque wrench on heads and a few other things anymore. Not to sound cocky, but I have developed a feel for what is right and what is not... You can go pretty tight on the hubs, just don't break the bolts off.
thanks for the help viney. I figure RFT spec should do the trick for the hubs (Really F#$*in' tight) I will get the brake line wrench tommorrow, how much are the braded cables?
I got mine from Tony D at Newedgeperformance.com.. Give him a ring.. I think they are a bit over $100.
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