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Big Three (3) Upgrade, Duratec (pics)

6K views 25 replies 8 participants last post by  sam fisher 
#1 · (Edited)
I didn't put this in "performance", because I haven't figured out if I gained any. And I didn't put it in "car audio", even though that's why its in, because I've yet to start my audio build. So ima leave it here for MK1.5 owners to find :)
story: For those who don't know; So my car has needed much TLC since I found it. It didn't run and the PO was super neglecting this poor girl. Anyway, I've taken the opportunity of having to do many upgrades and repairs to teach my kid brother (16) how to do shhtuff. I learned the hard way, and that sucked.
Today's To-Do was the Big 3 . There are a bunch of different reasons I've heard for why ppl do this "mod/upgrade". Mine; I'm planning a pretty sweet audio build, that'll get on its way in a few months, once I have everything in line.

Parts Used:
**10 ft of NVX 0 Gauge Power/Ground (had about 1ft left over. This stuff kicks so much ass. True spec, and very flexible. Oxygen free and blah blah blah)
**NVX Fuse Holder w/ T-Spec Fuse.
**Battery Terminals, EFX by Scosche, Two 0-ga & Two 4/8 ga. (Solid parts, really nice looking, and great quality to it. Only issue I had, I didn't realize One of the factory power leads was actually Two . So that's kinda f'ed up my plans, because I had to use one of the 0 gauge ins. Which I was gona leave open for my future amp lead. Gna need to get creative when it comes to it.
**5/16 Ring Terminals. (Get Moore than You need!!!!!!)
I didn't use solder, but I Highly recommend soldering the wire to your Ring terminals. I just didn't feel like going to Home Depot, since it was the only thing I Didn't have.

Pics, enjoy. Feel free to ask any questions.
Btw, I left all factory wiring, and I DIDN'T use the factory Block Lead, because that location is a Beeeatch. I used a different bolt, but it Still had to be reached from underneath.












 
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#3 ·
Simple, indeed. Tedious as hell. My Alt to Fuse to Positive was the easy part. Integrating the factory leads was a PITA, for My install at least.
 
#6 ·
Actually, I am planning an audio build. It's only going to total about 1200watts RMS when completed, but being a regular Focus, I didn't feel it would stand very long, once I finally Do the build.
To answer your question; I'm off from work today and yesterday, so I havent gotten any Real time in the car. Right now, whatever I Think I feel can be called Placebo or the typical feel of the car after the battery has been removed and put back. However, even if I don't "gain" anything that has some evidence behind it, I still would say its worth the effort, just based on the fact that the factory electrical did in fact seem pretty Poopy, I won't have to worry about dimming lights once the audio is in, and now things should run more efficiently (in theory of course, and I understand that).
 
#7 ·
I grounded a few points on my car recently and I can definitely see a difference in the way some of the electronics work. The sound system has less static noise at higher volume, the windows roll up/down more smoothly, my electric throttle responds better...

I'm really interested in the type of cabling you used. 0awg seems overkill for the typical user... can you get the same kind of cable in a smaller gauge? It looks really nice and flexible.
 
#8 ·
For the typical user, w/ no major sound upgrades (let's say >600-800watts), it definitely is overkill. NVX does have smaller wiring. I'd highly recommend picking up some, their 4-8 gauge is way less in price too.
 
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#11 ·
^lol . Yep, unless you want pretty cables and terminals, it'll definitely be a waste of an afternoon and the skin on your knuckles.
 
#12 ·
lol I can say I've seen improved highway MPG since doing the mod so you may still find a benefit to doing it! On a trip last weekend I tracked 100 miles @ 45mpg.

(your results may vary [:)])
 
#13 ·
Woohoo, *fingers crossed*. I trek 50mi a day, so that'd be nice.

I been running errands today, and this may just be a side affect of resetting the car (Iuno), but I feel the car responding a lot better with the A/C on. I can't think what the "upgrade" would have anything to do with it, but meh :)
 
#18 ·
Cheers ^^. Thanks, mate! I did 2 out of the 3 this evening. Drastic difference already without the alternator cable swap...will be doing that once I purchase the fuse. I'm running about 2.5k watts rms (3 separate amps) and my car dims quite a bit at high volumes. There is also a ton of engine/alternator whine and it's progressively increased over the last year. The ground cable that goes to the body is maybe 10 gauge and was rotting. The cable that goes to the engine block is 8 gauge and seemed in normal condition.

Noticeable improvements using 0 gauge KnuKonceptz power cable: Voltage at idle, normally 13-13.8, now back to 14.4volts.

Car seems a little more responsive (could be all in my head, going off what I am used to with my car).

Almost all engine whine noise is gone, even at the highest of volumes.

Headlights dim a tiny bit at the highest volumes, keep in mind my battery is around 3 years old and is nothing special.

My car spits $20 bills out of the a/c vent now.

One of the above is not true.
 
#19 ·
Niiiice!!
I'm surprised that doing the upgrade helped with the whine. Assuming your RCAs are ran opposite side of the power cable, its typically an RCA upgrade OR noise filter that fixes that.

A battery upgrade is next in line for my electrical upgrade. :) . I've got a few performance upgrades in line first.

On a side note, I've been running without the stock alt-power to positive for almost a week now. Looks like I did something right :)

Note II, besides great voltage (which was my goal), no better mpg (I think).
 
#20 ·
I know it was confusing why the noise went away, but I'm not complaining. RCA's are ran on the opposite side and I did upgrade my rca cables, I even had luck grounding my RCA's...it was DEAD silent for like 6 months..i'm talking ZERO feedback...then the noise came back ? ? I checked the RCA ground and it was still intact. Weird shit!

Anyway, glad you're car is working. Mine seems to be okay. Voltage is stable. I'll keep track of MPG and get back to you.

Any reason I might need a bigger fuse capacity if I am running 0 gauge? I understand a little about amperage, but still learning. I'm pretty sure my car has a bigger, or more powerful alternator. The alternator went out 4-5 years ago due to attempting to power a 1.5k watt system, and the mechanic said he put a more powerful one in, but I have NO IDEA about the specs. I'll look into it.
 
#21 ·
I went with 150, because in My head it seems like an ok idea. However, my Alt is stock and is No where near putting out anything close to 150 Amps. I'm sure I overshot by at least 50amps, I might go down to a 100, and see what happens. But ideally you want the fuse to hover just above whatever your alt is doing.
 
#22 ·
Do you know why the alternator ground does not need to be the upgraded?

Seems counterproductive to change main grounds, but not the alternator ground? Kinda like a kink in the hose or something? IDK
 
#23 ·
From my understanding; the Alt is bolted directly to the engine block, which is grounded via the 3rd part of your "big '3'". Therefore, the Alt IS grounded via the grounded engine block.
 
#24 ·
Ahh that makes sense.

Another thing I noticed today at idle was my a/c would run more smoothly. Before the mod, at idle, my a/c would slow down and the fan would become quieter, then as soon as I accelerated the fan would pick up...didn't happen after the mod, even with the fan speed selected to 3 out of 4 with my stereo at 30% volume. Great [:)][:)][:)][:)][:)][:)]g mod!
 
#25 ·
I can kinda vouch for that. I thought it was just Placebo, but yea..I feel like my car doesn't run like complete crap with the a/c on. I don't know what the a/c would have anything to do with what I did, if anything, but Meh ..ill take it. :)
Now I just gota get my repairs and upgrades out of the way, and stick a sound system in there to Really test it.
 
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