Focus Fanatics Forum banner

How-To: Paint Chip Repair

20K views 25 replies 15 participants last post by  sjfishon 
#1 ·
Despite the technological advances in paint over the last hundred years, an automobile's exterior comes under heavy assault the instant the car rolls off the production line. Door dings, bird droppings, corrosive rain, winter road salt and ocean fog all take their toll on that thin layer of color that protects your vehicle's steel body from the elements. Rock chips are especially damaging, as unlike contaminants that slowly eat away at the paint, rock chips cut all the way down to bare metal without prior warning. That allows moist air immediate access and surface rust soon follows. Worse yet, the rust can spread like a cancer beneath previously undamaged paint, so it's best to fix the damage and seal the hole as quickly as possible.


Clean the Injury
Begin by thoroughly cleaning the repair area with a standard car detergent and water solution. Rinse all soap residue from the area and allow to dry completely. Using a fiberglass pencil (available at most auto parts stores in the paint and body department), carefully remove rust and loose paint from the chipped area. Fiberglass dust is a severe irritant, so be sure to wash your hands when finished and don't breathe or allow the dust to contact your eyes while working. Hopefully the chip is fresh and rust hasn't had a chance to take hold, but if the metal has been exposed to the elements for some time, it may be necessary to use a tiny piece of 800-grit sandpaper to remove all traces of rust from the area.


Fill the Crater
Determine the manufacturer's color code for your vehicle (check owner's manual to find out where the data plate is located) and obtain a small bottle of touch-up paint from your local dealer or auto parts store. Brush thin coats of paint across the repair area, allowing each coat to fully dry before applying the next. If the chip is very small, you can use a sliver of thin cardboard to dab the paint into the hole. Fill in the chipped area one layer at a time until the new paint is higher than the surrounding factory paint. Allow at least 24 hours for the final coat of paint to harden.


Blend the Repair
Starting with a small piece of 1500-grit wet/dry sandpaper wrapped around a small foam-rubber sanding block, slowly sand down the raised touch-up paint. Dip the sandpaper into a container of water regularly to rinse removed paint from the abrasive. Try to sand only the touch-up paint, as the factory paint surrounding the chip is quite thin and will not handle very much sanding. As the touch-up paint nears the same height as the factory paint, change to 2000-grit wet-dry paper for final sanding. The paint in the area will take on a matte appearance, which is then polished to a glossy finish using a small amount of rubbing compound on a clean cloth. Follow with your usual auto wax or polish to give the fresh paint a protective coating. The quality of the repair will depend on your work and how well the touch-up paint matches your factory paint. But regardless of results, the ugly crater will be filled and your vehicle's sheetmetal will be protected from additional exposure. And if the repair goes well, no one will notice that the chip was ever there!
 
See less See more
#6 ·
I have always skipped it too just because I was afraid I would mess up something. Next time though I will give it a try.[thumb]
 
#10 ·
Well, experience matters I guess. I followed Toms instructions, but I now have dull areas surrounding the chip repair. I tried using some buffing compound but it seems to have made it worse. I tried putting a coat of Mequiars GOLD on it but it does not really help. I have this dull blotch now. Any suggestions? NOTE: I screwed up when applying the buffing compound by using a circular motion which has aggravated the dulling effect I am sure.
 
#11 ·
You diddnt screw anything up you just did not rub it good enough. You used wet 1500 to sand right? If you did you need a wheel that is capable of 1500 RPM and a wool rubbing pad and some good compound to do the best job. The wheel needs to not be orbital! The dull part that is on your car is just itty bity sand scratches in the clear. I assure you its not ruined. If you dont have all the equiptment just take the car to a body shop and ask them if they can rub a small spot out for you. 9/10 times they will do it for free right then and there in the lot.
 
#12 · (Edited)
cayres. I Started with (wet) 1500, then moved to (wet) 2000 until the repair was level with the surround (very carefully).
Yes, I think your right. I wipe it down with a damp rag and it looks OK. So its the clear coat . I would really like to do this myself. Can this be done manually? I.E. can I purchase a kit that has the wool wheel and compound. Our can I just continue to rub (by hand, one direction this time) with more compound?
Thanks

I have never done this, so the following might be useful to those who also have never done this.
Cayres was correct. I found an online tutorial and learned that I was not using the polish correctly. You have to press much more firmly than I expected, and you also have to give the polish time to 'break down'. An orbital buffer is very useful in this regard.
My "dull spots' are gone. The repaired area(s) are barely discernable.
THANKS!!!
 
#13 ·
it is totally doable by hand to get the luster back and it not look faded, however you prob wont be able to get all of the sand scratches out, they may not be noticeable though uless you inspect it ya know? A wheel will run more than a shop will charge to rub that spot out. Id say just get some compound not polish and go to town by hand with decent pressure in a circular motion and it should do what you want.
 
#15 ·
I should have posted an update for all. I recommend you do it by hand for small areas, just be prepared to spend some time and energy. I could not get all of the "sand scratches" out as cayres predicted. However, after a very thorough cleaning, I applied a bit of glaze then followed with wax. I hand rubbed the wax off, then followed with the buffer and a microfiber pad. As I know exactly where to look and from what angle, yes I can find them. But I have to admit its not easy if the light is not perfect.
 
#17 ·
stephenellis >> Been a long time for this thread. But! I should have updated it (my bad!). The question is >> which "cutting compound"? So! I realized that most of the 'good' stuff works far faster than I do (I.E. I was trying to hard). So I tried a 'consumer friendly' product (read 'idiot proof?) called "scratch doctor". I had to apply it several times in spots, but it worked ( note: so slowly you just cannot overdue it). Another tip: Often, 'touch-up paint' is to thick. If your lucky enough to have a dupli-color spray (or equivalent), spray some paint into the cap, and use a good appropriate sized brush (you clean the area 1st of course).
So, Safety over efficiency?
 
#18 ·
Seeking advice:

I have a '12 5DR Titanium in Kona Blue. A few run-ins with salt/rock trucks the past couple winters has left me with several rather large chips on the hood and front fenders and some road rash on the front bumper.

I've noted this issue a few times in discussions on other boards within this forum when discussion has focused on paint quality, which I think is lacking a bit for my car. In any event, I'm looking to fix the problem and I'm trying to decide whether I should do it myself or pursue the professional body shop route.

Here are the issues I'm dealing with. First, cost is an issue. Plus, we're talking about an "economy" daily driver here. I've never dealt with a body shop before, so I have no idea what sort of cost I'm looking at. I'm not even sure if a body shop would fix each individual chip, or paint the entire hood. Would it even be worth my time to consider this option?

However, while I'm not looking for my car to look brand new again, I'm not sure I'd be capable of adequately addressing this issue given my lack of experience and the sheer number of chips we're talking about. I've priced "do-it-yourself" kits such as Dr. ColorChip, and while they seem reasonable in both price and ease of use, I'm not sure if it would be worth my time and money to come up with sub-standard results on my own if I could spend a bit more and have a professional do it.

I'm interesting in finding out what people here think. Thanks in advance.
 
#19 ·
I don't know if it exists in the usa but in the uk there is a compant called 'chips away' they specialise in small nody damage and do a good job. Someone went up the side of my car scratching poop out of it. Cost me 70 pounds and you barely notice the difference. Not perfect but a million miles better than before!

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
 
#20 ·
i appreciate the response, but even if such a company does exist in the states, i doubt such a specialized service would be available in the small, rural town where i live

I don't know if it exists in the usa but in the uk there is a compant called 'chips away' they specialise in small nody damage and do a good job. Someone went up the side of my car scratching poop out of it. Cost me 70 pounds and you barely notice the difference. Not perfect but a million miles better than before!

Sent from my GT-I9300 using FF Mobile
 
#21 ·
I live in a rural part of scotland. Half an hours drive to Dundee, the nearest city (tiny compared to edinburgh, glasgow, london, etc.) Yet there is one here. Google is your friend, so is the phone book! Someone is bound to know of somewhere in a city close to yourself!

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
 
#22 ·
nearest "city" to me?...pittsburgh...3+ hours away...funnily enough, google shows me that the "chips away" US headquarters is located in pittsburgh

I live in a rural part of scotland. Half an hours drive to Dundee, the nearest city (tiny compared to edinburgh, glasgow, london, etc.) Yet there is one here. Google is your friend, so is the phone book! Someone is bound to know of somewhere in a city close to yourself!

Sent from my GT-I9300 using FF Mobile
 
#24 ·
i think the biggest problem made is useing the brush on the touch up paint. its to large;;;; if you have just a small hood chip, just shake well, then use the brush to put 1 drop of paint on, say a knife blade. then use a straight pin, hep that small, just touch the pin in the paint drop, grt just a small drop on the end of the pin , and set it in the crater, it will fill. you might need a second drop in a few min,,, then in a hour, use just tooth paste, keep it wet and slowly polish till the chip is gone.... the object is less is better'' just put the paint in the crater ,none on the paint;;;;oh yea,, good strong reading glasses, and light, i have a small lite i put in my mouth..one last thing, on my 2014 i just put on a Magnet Bra, what a great product,, its like the signs people put on the side or doors, very thin magnetic, and nothing can get under. with this you wont have any chips to fix;;; see pics[:)][:)] go to Magnetbra.com 50$
 

Attachments

#26 ·
ajp''''''' if you are looking for paper that fine; you don't need it, i mean, use a ultra fine polishing compound,, one brand is called gurlers rouge' it is so fine you will wish it was gritter, i use it last to completely blend the touch up in........ it is so fine you can polish your watch crystal if you want to,, or eye glasses''''''
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top