Originally Posted by UnleashedBeast
You have to drill a hole through the upper black plastic. Remove one of those "air vents" that allows access to the internal area. On the top left of this picture, you see what looks like an air vent. Remove the vent, hand bend a bracket to contour and work, drill the hole in the right place. etc...
Snip picture, I hate it when people quote pictures in replies, pet peeve...
So... You are supporting it from the plastic cover? I assume you removed the felt pad like thing (Sound dampener?) to do this?
(EDIT - I tried to remove the line breaks, even using notepad to strip it of crud but no joy, sorry)
I did look in the air vent (cover removed) but from what I remember, it was right over the front strut tower bracing bar and I was actually considering drilling into that but I hope to have some time this weekend (Three days off
) to really make a decision as to how I should brace it and finish the install. The hoses have one end already assembled and I have drilled and installed a steel (all I could find at work) AN fitting in the adapter to drain the oil from the filter assembly since it sits so high up (engine and hoses really).
One downside, upon tapping the adapter (1/8" Pipe), I hit a void/contamination spot, part of the thread is ruined (Missing) but luckily it is not in a sealing part of the thread, I checked. I also went over the entire unit looking for more of the same and I found nothing visible. It kind of scared me at first, cheap recycled aluminum has much more voids and contamination than virgin stock but virgin is SO much more expensive to get that almost all suppliers use some percentage of recycled material in their supply chain. Still, when I began, I used a smaller size than I wanted with the intention of upgrading later and drilling a bigger hole. I hate pipe threads even when sealed.
I ordered some Loctite 545 before I even got the kit and I was really surprised that it came with some (.5 ml) but not enough (need 1 ml), of the same stuff ($$$). I was impressed with the quality of the kit, the fittings appear to be 3K PSI rated AN fittings but of course the hoses (Parker, Name Brand) would never take that; still, quality stuff (Love the SAE O-Ring face seals, the best that are currently available for this type of application).
I was even more surprised to find that the filters are in parallel so that the only pressure the bypass will ever see is the back pressure from the full flow filter and the bypass has a brass restrictor insert to further limit flow. I guess I was expecting a pressure reducing regulator spring setup but simpler is always better and I expect it to work just fine this way and there is no spring to fade or break. The down side is that the bypass will clog up sooner since it's supply is not being pre-filtered by the full flow (EaO 34) filter which I don't expect to be an issue, the thing is huge for a modern two liter gas engine. The upside is that it will (to some small degree) further reduce total filter back pressure (February cold starts in MA).
Can you tell that I REALLY Love oil threads