So I've talked to a couple of you peeps before and gotten a few answers and well the car has left me stranded again..
A little background...
Car has a custom turbo kit put together.. And it was tuned by Focus Power..
It has the diablo chip so I can't really datalog.
The issue..
When the car is cold.. It's runs pretty good... High idle but it runs... As soon as it gets to operating temp... It bogs down and eventually shuts off... Then it won't stay on... As in.. I turn the key.. Car turns on for 2 seconds and immediately shuts off...
So if I wait about an hour.. It'll run for a bit until well it warms up again...
I checked the coil pack... One terminal was all black and charred... So.. I ordered a massive ignition package... I replaced the screaming demon coil pack I had with a MSD coil pack along with massive wires.. I Also put in motor craft spark plugs from CFM... I changed the valve cover gasket, and I also have cleaned the MAF...
I honestly have ran out of ideas... I check the wires to the coil pack no issues there..
I did get a cel before and it said it could be MAF, or coil pack I forgot the code. I since clear the code since I replaced all the parts and well it broke down again today. I haven't been able to pull a new cel yet.. It hasn't popped up yet....
Idk if this means anything but when all the issues pop up like the bogging down and shutting off my Air Fuel Ratio gauge stays in the red for lean mixtures...
My last idea is a clogged cat... Could that be the stick in my ass?
your boosted and still have the cat? id start there...and check our IACV, my car bogs at idle as well because I am to lazy re place and or clean it. mostly because of its stupid location.
Yeah, but it sounds like his car runs fine on and off idle until it gets up to temp, and then it bogs and dies correct? Have you been in touch with Tom? This seems to be the type of situation where he'd be plenty ready to look at any available datalogs.
If it's running really lean when it's dying (if you have a wideband, how lean is it?) I'd be hesitant to drive it until this is sorted, you don't need anything melting on you.
I'm not by any means a FI expert and I don't mean to bring up disaster scenarios, but are you guys suggesting he might have melted the cat while running lean? I don't otherwise see how the cat plays into this.
EDIT: missed the part about the Diablochip not allowing datalogging. How did Tom tune it then? I thought he was pretty stringent about what equipment he'd work with.
EDIT 2: I also skimmed over the part about the high idle on startup which does point to the IAC and possibly also the innordinately lean running. As everybody knows a stuck open IAC usually involves rev-hang during shifts, but it would presumably also be unmetered air all the time. The o2 sensors would shift fuel trims to account for it so that would be a handy thing to know about, but there'd also presumably be a CEL if the fuel trim were maximum rich and could no longer compensate.
I'd really want to know about fuel trim data if I were you.
Yeah the car idles at about 1400 rpm during cold startup then it usually dies down to 1000 rpm at warm up.. But as of lately as soon as it warms up and the rpms drop.. The car starts bogging and then dies... Then it won't maintain idle until it cools off.. And by saying it won't maintain idle I mean it shuts the car off...
I took the car to tune to his shop in NC.. He tuned it using the diablo chip..
My AFR gauge goes all the way to left during the episodes.. Just stays in red..
While cold it maintains higher rpm's until it gets hot, when hot IAC can still adjust but is not enough vacuum to maintain it running. IAC if it gets stucked, gets way higher rpm than that...vac leak, vac leak, vac leak...are the brakes or the clutch acting weird sometimes?
its the little filter that sits outside of the tank of the fuel pump canister. getting fuel cut off is a good sign. it almost sunds like that's what you are getting. all thou only time ive gotten fuel cut off was when I tried 18psi on stock pump, and during boost it will JOLT real hard
Brakes aren't working.. I have to slam the pedal in order for some stopping.. I was told it could be the master cylinder.. I was planning to address that when I get it running..
Is due to the vac leak, nothing wrong with the brakes they are designed to work with a vac pressure you are not getting to, again is a leak and pretty big too.
Edit: if you overwork the booster by pumping the brakes, you'll have idle and brakes for a very short time.
bottom of the intake manifold is the brake booster. trace it when the car is cold and do what italo has told me to do, spray brake cleaner on the line and see if the rpm changed
He needs to check everywhere, weird acting brakes is a symptom of a bigger leak not that there is something bad, can always start the engine and inspect the booster hose to see if it is collapsing, but leak can be anywhere.
I was looking for leaks and I couldn't find any... ( My question still remains tho.. Would the brakes really have to do much with my car bogging down and dying only at warm temp? Wouldn't it affect it all the time, at all temps?
Like I said before, brakes acting weird is a symptom of a leak, your engine produces a vacuum brakes and clutch need to work, when you have a leak the needed vacuum would not be there and brakes or clutch can act funny.
You won't see a leak, need to test for it, I explain to Sean what I do and he found a write up I like. http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/...ions/339529-how-boost-leak-tester-5-02-a.html
Ive checked for the past two days for any vacuum leaks and I cannot find any. Ive been appreciating this 70 degree weather to try and figure this car out.
So i was suspecting tune, and I pulled the diablo chip out... and the car was idling very bad ( i figured) for about 5 minutes running very rich according to my AFR gauge.. and then it just shut off.. it wouldnt turn back on so I put the chip back in and the car started again no problem with a smoother idle at about 1100 rpms...
so i let it sit idling for about 10 minutes and no issues.. so i decided to back it up a bit into the parking spot behind me and as soon as it went into gear that i pressed the gas lightly to move it, the car started bogging down. so i put it in 1st and it started bogging more and more and then it shut off refusing to start.. during this time my AFR is reading LEAN...
so if anyone can think of anything else id love to hear it lol
im planning still to cut my cat off, and doing a compression test hopefully early next week or sunday. depending when i come back from chicago.
I was kinda just going over this thread see if I missed something and I notice I keep saying diablo chip.. Sorry peeps I have the SCT chip smdh lol It's the diablo mafia I keep confusing..
Today I'm buying a compression tester finally. And a fuel filter.. I have a car show next Saturday and it don't look like I'm going to make it lol
And opening the throttle has no effect. It just sputters and dies.
Like if I accelerate while in neutral I can hit 7k no problem
But at temp and when in gear that's when the bogging down happens..
I checked for any leaks with no luck. But i got some advice over on fJ I'm going to pull the line from the booster to the IM and see if I can spot a crack..
so, recreate this problem. let car die, try to restart it ..let it die again. See if you have fuel pressure after that
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