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Old 03-04-2013, 05:03 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by 6SPD_soul View Post
A lot of people say to change the water pump when doing the timing belt since you have easy access, but I don't think it's worth the time and money, I don't hear about water pump failures here very often (ever) as the water pump is not driven by or related to the water pump. It is iimportant that you change all the timing belt related pulleys and idlers. You can get a timing belt kit from Gates (TCK294B) that has the belt, idler and tensioner pulleys for like $90 if not less, Rockauto is generally the place to get it. You also want to get the cam timing tools, it's just a flat bar to hold the cams in place an a screw/pin that holds the crankshaft when you find TDC compression on cyl. 1. The company OTC probably sells the most inexpensive set of these timing tools but you can find other vendors, just google it. They are necessary in my opinion.

Also buy a decent repair manual to walk you through it, they're cheap and worth they're weight in gold when it comes to this. They don't mention how to position the VCT when setting the timing, you want to make sure it's rotated fully towards the front of the car before you put the belt on, of course it does move independently of the camshaft and it'll help you understand it's operation when you get the belt off. A lot of people also caution against loosening the cam gear pulleys even though it's called for in the published instructions, the cam position sensor is apparently overly sensitive about this.

There's a ton of previous discussions on this and you'll find more info if you experiment with the search function on this site (although the search function kind of sucks).
I would do the water pump if you have the extra cash... My pump went out on my way to work and car over heated without registering it on the temp gauges (i think due to air pocket in cooling system) n i almost muffed shit up... So if you can do it while your in there and you have timing,cover, moter mount n everything else off..
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